U-Sharmon Lebby ungumbhali nesitayile semfashini esimeme esifunda futhi sibike ngokuphambana kwemvelo, imfashini, kanye nomphakathi we-BIPOC.
Uvolo yindwangu yezinsuku ezibandayo nobusuku obubandayo. Le ndwangu ihlobene nezingubo zangaphandle. Kuyinto ethambile, ethambile, evame ukwenziwa nge-polyester. Izigqoko, izigqoko, nezikhafu zonke zenziwe ngezinto zokwenziwa ezibizwa ngokuthi uboya be-polar.
Njenganoma iyiphi indwangu evamile, sifuna ukufunda kabanzi mayelana nokuthi uboya beboya bubhekwa njengobuqinile yini nokuthi buqhathaniswa kanjani nezinye izindwangu.
Uvolo ekuqaleni wadalwa esikhundleni soboya. Ngo-1981, inkampani yaseMelika i-Malden Mills (manje eyi-Polartec) yahola ekuthuthukiseni izinto ze-polyester ezixutshwe. Ngokusebenzisana ne-Patagonia, bazoqhubeka nokukhiqiza izindwangu ezingcono, ezilula kunoboya, kodwa zisenezakhiwo ezifana nezintambo zezilwane.
Eminyakeni eyishumi kamuva, kwavela okunye ukusebenzisana phakathi kwePolartec nePatagonia; kulokhu kugxilwe ekusebenziseni amabhodlela epulasitiki agaywe kabusha ukwenza uvolo. Indwangu yokuqala iluhlaza, umbala wamabhodlela asetshenziswe kabusha. Namuhla, amabhrendi athatha izinyathelo ezengeziwe zokufiphalisa noma ukudaya imicu ye-polyester egaywe kabusha ngaphambi kokubeka imicu ye-polyester egaywe kabusha emakethe. Manje sekunohlu lwemibala etholakalayo yezinto zoboya ezenziwe ngemfucuza yangemva komthengi.
Nakuba uvolo ngokuvamile benziwa nge-polyester, ngokobuchwepheshe bungenziwa cishe nganoma yiluphi uhlobo lwefiber.
Ngokufanayo ne-velvet, isici esiyinhloko soboya be-polar yindwangu yoboya. Ukuze adale izindawo ezithambile noma eziphakanyisiwe, i-Malden Mills isebenzisa amabhulashi ezintambo zensimbi eyicylindrical ukuze aphule amaluphu adalwe ngesikhathi sokuluka. Lokhu futhi kuphakamisa imicu phezulu. Kodwa-ke, le ndlela ingabangela ukugoqa kwendwangu, okuholela kumabhola amancane e-fiber ebusweni bendwangu.
Ukuze uxazulule inkinga yokuphulukisa, impahla ngokuyisisekelo "iphuciwe", okwenza indwangu izwakale ithambile futhi ingagcina ikhwalithi yayo isikhathi eside. Namuhla, ubuchwepheshe obuyisisekelo obufanayo busetshenziselwa ukwenza uvolo.
Ama-chips e-polyethylene terephthalate ayisiqalo senqubo yokukhiqiza i-fiber. Imfucumfucu iyancibilika bese iphoqelelwa ngediski enezimbobo ezinhle kakhulu ezibizwa ngokuthi i-spinneret.
Lapho izingcezu ezincibilikisiwe ziphuma emigodini, ziqala ukuphola futhi ziqine zibe imicu. Khona-ke imicu ibe isiphothwa kuma-spools ashisayo abe yizinyanda ezinkulu ezibizwa ngokuthi amathowuzi, abe eselulelwa ukuze enze imicu ende futhi enamandla. Ngemva kokwelula, inikezwa ukuthungwa okushwabene ngomshini wokugoqa, bese yomiswa. Kuleli qophelo, izintambo zisikwa zibe ngamasentimitha, afana nezintambo zoboya.
Le micu ingenziwa-ke ibe imicu. Amathowuzi acijile futhi asikiwe adluliselwa emshinini wamakhadi ukuze akhe izintambo zefiber. Lezi zintambo zibe sezifakwa emshinini wokuphotha, owenza imicu ecolekile futhi uyiphothe ibe ama-bobbins. Ngemva kokudaya, sebenzisa umshini wokuluka ukuze uhlanganise izintambo zibe yindwangu. Ukusuka lapho, inqwaba ikhiqizwa ngokudlulisela indwangu emshinini wokulala. Ekugcineni, umshini wokugunda uzosika indawo ephakanyisiwe ukuze wenze uvolo.
I-PET egaywe kabusha esetshenziselwa ukwenza uvolo ivela emabhodleleni epulasitiki agaywe kabusha. Imfucuza yangemva komthengi iyahlanzwa futhi ibulawe amagciwane. Ngemuva kokumisa, ibhodlela lichotshozwa libe yizicucu ezincane zepulasitiki bese ligezwa futhi. Umbala okhanyayo u-bleached, ibhodlela eliluhlaza lihlala liluhlaza, futhi kamuva lidaywe ngombala omnyama. Bese ulandela inqubo efanayo ne-PET yasekuqaleni: ncibilikisa izingcezu futhi uziguqule zibe imicu.
Umehluko omkhulu phakathi koboya bezimvu nokotini ukuthi obubodwa benziwe ngemicu yokwenziwa. Uboya bezimvu buklanyelwe ukulingisa uboya beboya futhi bugcine izici zabo zokuvikela i-hydrophobic kanye ne-thermal, kuyilapho ukotini ungokwemvelo futhi uguquguquka kakhulu. Akuyona nje impahla, kodwa futhi i-fiber engalukwa noma ihlanganiswe kunoma yiluphi uhlobo lwendwangu. Imicu kakotini ingasetshenziswa ngisho ukwenza uvolo.
Nakuba ukotini uyingozi emvelweni, ngokuvamile kunenkolelo yokuthi uyasimama kunoboya bendabuko. Ngenxa yokuthi i-polyester eyenza uvolo iyenziwa, kungase kuthathe amashumi eminyaka ukubola, futhi izinga lokuwohloka kwezinto ukotini liyashesha kakhulu. Izinga eliqondile lokubola lincike ezimweni zendwangu nokuthi ngabe i-100% ukotini.
Uvolo owenziwe nge-polyester ngokuvamile uyindwangu enomthelela omkhulu. Okokuqala, i-polyester yenziwe nge-petroleum, amafutha e-fossil kanye nezinsiza ezilinganiselwe. Njengoba sonke sazi, ukucubungula i-polyester kudla amandla namanzi, futhi kuqukethe amakhemikhali amaningi ayingozi.
Inqubo yokudaya yezindwangu zokwenziwa nayo inomthelela emvelweni. Le nqubo ayisebenzisi nje kuphela amanzi amaningi, kodwa futhi ikhipha amanzi angcolile aqukethe odayi abangasetshenzisiwe kanye nama-surfactants amakhemikhali, ayingozi ezinto eziphilayo zasemanzini.
Nakuba i-polyester esetshenziswa eboyeni ingakwazi ukubola, iyabola. Nokho, le nqubo ishiya izingcezu zepulasitiki ezibizwa ngokuthi ama-microplastics. Lokhu akuyona inkinga kuphela lapho indwangu iphelela endaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu, kodwa futhi lapho ugeza izingubo zoboya. Ukusetshenziswa kwabathengi, ikakhulukazi ukuwasha izingubo, kunomthelela omkhulu endaweni ezungezile phakathi nomjikelezo wempilo wezingubo. Kukholakala ukuthi cishe ama-milligrams angu-1,174 ama-microfibers akhululwa lapho ibhantshi lokwenziwa liwashwa.
Umthelela woboya obugaywe kabusha mncane. Amandla asetshenziswa i-polyester egaywe kabusha ancipha ngo-85%. Njengamanje, u-5% kuphela we-PET ogaywa kabusha. Njengoba i-polyester iyifayibha yokuqala esetshenziswa ezindwangu, ukwandisa leli phesenti kuzoba nomthelela omkhulu ekunciphiseni ukusetshenziswa kwamandla namanzi.
Njengezinto eziningi, amabhrendi afuna izindlela zokunciphisa umthelela wemvelo. Eqinisweni, i-Polartec ihola umkhuba ngohlelo olusha lokwenza amaqoqo abo endwangu ngo-100% aphinde asetshenziswe futhi angonakaliswe.
Uvolo nawo wenziwa ngezinto eziningi zemvelo, njengokotini kanye ne-hemp. Baqhubeka benezici ezifanayo noboya bezobuchwepheshe kanye noboya, kodwa abayingozi kangako. Ngokunaka kakhulu umnotho oyindilinga, izinto ezisekelwe ezitshalweni nezigaywe kabusha kungenzeka zisetshenziselwe ukwenza uvolo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Oct-14-2021