Umlayezo odluliswa ngabathengi unomsindo futhi ucacile: emhlabeni wangemva kobhubhane, ukunethezeka nokusebenza yilokho abakufunayo. Abakhiqizi bezindwangu baluzwile lolu cingo futhi basabela ezintweni ezihlukahlukene kanye nemikhiqizo ukuhlangabezana nalezi zidingo.
Emashumini eminyaka, izindwangu ezisezingeni eliphezulu beziyisithako esiyinhloko kwezemidlalo kanye nezembatho zangaphandle, kodwa manje yonke imikhiqizo evela kumabhantshi ezemidlalo yamadoda kuya kwezingubo zabesifazane isebenzisa izindwangu ezinochungechunge lwezici zobuchwepheshe: ukukhwabanisa umswakama, ukubola, ukupholisa, njll.
Omunye wabaholi kulo mkhakha wemakethe nguSchoeller, inkampani yaseSwitzerland eyaqala ngo-1868. UStephen Kerns, umongameli weSchoeller USA, uthe abathengi banamuhla bafuna izingubo ezingahlangabezana nezidingo eziningi.
"Bafuna ukwenza kahle, futhi bafuna ukwenza izinto eziningi," esho. "Imikhiqizo yangaphandle iye lapho esikhathini esingeside esidlule, kodwa manje sibona isidingo [semikhiqizo yezimpahla zendabuko]." Nakuba u-Schoeller “ebesebenzelana nemikhiqizo enqamula imingcele efana ne-Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers kanye no-Ralph Lauren,” Wathi lo “mdlalo wokuya emsebenzini” omusha osuselwe kwezemidlalo nokungcebeleka uletha isithakazelo esengeziwe ezindwangu ezinezimfanelo zobuchwepheshe.
NgoJuni, uSchoeller wethula izinguqulo ezintsha ezimbalwa zemikhiqizo yakhe entwasahlobo ka-2023, okuhlanganisa neDryskin, okuyindwangu enezindlela ezimbili eyenziwe nge-polyester egaywe kabusha kanye nobuchwepheshe be-Ecorepel Bio. Ingakwazi ukuthutha umswakama futhi imelane nokuhuzuka. Ingasetshenziselwa izingubo zezemidlalo kanye nendlela yokuphila.
Ngokusho kwenkampani, inkampani ibuyekeze i-Schoeller Shape yayo, indwangu ehlanganisiwe kakotini eyenziwe nge-polyamide egaywe kabusha esebenza kahle ngokulinganayo ezinkundleni zegalofu nasemigwaqweni yasemadolobheni. Inomphumela wamathoni amabili okukhumbuza idenim endala kanye nobuchwepheshe be-3XDry Bio. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kukhona nendwangu ye-Softight ripstop, eyenzelwe amabhulukwe enziwe nge-polyamide egaywe kabusha, eyenziwe ngobuchwepheshe be-Ecorepel Bio, enezinga eliphezulu lamanzi nokumelana namabala, i-PFC-free, futhi isekelwe ezintweni zokusetshenziswa ezivuselelekayo.
"Lezi zindwangu ungasebenzisa ezansi, phezulu namajakhethi," kusho uKerns. Ungase ubanjwe yisiphepho sesihlabathi, futhi izinhlayiya ngeke zinamathele kuso.
UKerns uthe abantu abaningi baye babhekana nokushintsha kosayizi ngenxa yezinguquko zendlela yokuphila okubangelwa ubhubhane, ngakho-ke leli “ithuba elikhulu lekhabethe” lezingubo ezinwetshwa ngaphandle kokudela ubuhle.
U-Alexa Raab, inhloko ye-Sorona ye-brand nezokuxhumana emhlabeni wonke, uvumile ukuthi i-Sorona iyi-polymer esekelwe ku-bio esebenza kakhulu evela e-DuPont, eyenziwe ngezithako zezitshalo ezivuselelekayo ezingama-37%. Indwangu eyenziwe nge-Sorona inokunwebeka okuhlala isikhathi eside futhi ithatha indawo ye-spandex. Ahlanganiswe ukotini, uvolo, usilika neminye imicu. Baphinde babe nokumelana nemibimbi kanye nezakhiwo zokubuyisela isimo, ezinganciphisa ukugqwala kanye namaphilisi, okuvumela abathengi ukuthi bagcine izingubo zabo isikhathi eside.
Lokhu futhi kukhombisa ukuphishekela kwenkampani ukusimama. Izindwangu ezihlanganisiwe ze-Sorona zithola isitifiketi ngohlelo lwenkampani lwe-Common Thread certification, olwethulwa ngonyaka odlule ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuthi abalingani babo basefekthri bahlangabezana nemibandela ebalulekile yokusebenza kwezindwangu zabo: ukunwebeka okuhlala isikhathi eside, ukubuyiswa komumo, ukunakekelwa kalula, ukuthamba nokuphefumula. Kuze kube manje, cishe amafekthri angama-350 aqinisekisiwe.
"Abakhiqizi be-fiber bangasebenzisa ama-polymers e-Sorona ukuze bakhe izakhiwo eziningi eziyingqayizivele ezenza izinhlobonhlobo zendwangu zibonise izakhiwo ezihlukene, kusukela ezindwangu zangaphandle ezimelana nokushwabana kuya emikhiqizweni yokufaka engasindi nephefumulayo, ukwelula nokululama unomphela, kanye noboya bokufakelwa be-Sorona obusanda kwethulwa ," URenee Henze, Umqondisi Wezokumaketha Womhlaba Wonke weDuPont Biomaterials.
"Siyabona ukuthi abantu bafuna izingubo ezinethezekile, kodwa futhi bafuna ukuhambisana nezinkampani ezikhiqiza izindwangu ngendlela efanele nangendlela efanele," kwengeza uRaab. I-Sorona ithuthuke emkhakheni wemikhiqizo yasendlini futhi isetshenziselwa ama-quilts. NgoFebhuwari, inkampani yabambisana ne-Thindown, indwangu yokuqala futhi kuphela engu-100% phansi, isebenzisa izinto ezihlanganisiwe ukunikeza imfudumalo, ukukhanya nokuphefumula okusekelwe ekuthambeni, ukudonsa nokunwebeka kwe-Sorona. Ngo-Agasti, iPuma yethula iFuture Z 1.2, okuyisicathulo sokuqala sebhola esingenantambo esinentambo yeSorona phezulu.
Ku-Raab, isibhakabhaka asinamkhawulo ngokuya ngezicelo zomkhiqizo. “Siyethemba ukuthi singaqhubeka nokubona ukusetshenziswa kweSorona kwezemidlalo, amasudi, izingubo zokubhukuda neminye imikhiqizo,” kusho yena.
Umongameli we-Polartec uSteve Layton naye usanda kuba nesithakazelo kakhulu ku-Milliken & Co. amajezi ngo-1981 njengenye indlela yoboya. "Phambilini, besihlukaniswa njengemakethe yangaphandle, kodwa lokho esakusungula esiqongweni sentaba manje sekusetshenziswa ngezindlela ezahlukene."
Wenze isibonelo ngo-Dudley Stephens, uhlobo olubalulekile lwabesifazane olugxile ezindwangu ezigaywe kabusha. I-Polartec iphinde ibambisane nemikhiqizo yemfashini efana neMoncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, kanye neVeilance.
U-Layton uthe kule mikhiqizo, ubuhle budlala indima ebalulekile ngoba bafuna izinto ezingenasisindo, ezinwebekayo, ezifaka umswakama kanye nokufudumala okuthambile kwemikhiqizo yezingubo zendlela yokuphila. Enye edume kakhulu i-Power Air, okuyindwangu elukiwe ekwazi ukugoqa umoya ukuze ifudumale futhi inciphise ukuchithwa kwe-microfiber. Uthe le ndwangu “seyidumile.” Nakuba i-PowerAir ekuqaleni inikeze indawo eyisicaba enesakhiwo sebhamuza ngaphakathi, ezinye izinhlobo zendlela yokuphila zinethemba lokusebenzisa ibhamuza elingaphandle njengesici somklamo. “Ngakho-ke esizukulwaneni sethu esilandelayo, sizosebenzisa izimo ezihlukene zejiyomethri ukuze siyakhe,” kusho yena.
Ukusimama nakho kuyisinyathelo esiqhubekayo se-Polartec. NgoJulayi, inkampani yathi isuse i-PFAS (izinto ze-perfluoroalkyl kanye ne-polyfluoroalkyl) ekwelashweni kwe-DWR (i-durable water repellent) yochungechunge lwayo lwendwangu olusebenza kakhulu. I-PFAS iyikhemikhali eyenziwe ngumuntu engaboli, ingahlala futhi ibangele ukulimala emvelweni nasemzimbeni womuntu.
"Esikhathini esizayo, sizotshala amandla amaningi ukuze sigcine ukusebenza kahle ngenkathi sicabanga kabusha imicu esiyisebenzisayo ukuze siyenze isekelwe ku-bio," kusho uLeiden. "Ukuthola ukwelashwa okungeyona i-PFAS emugqeni womkhiqizo wethu kuyingqopha-mlando ekuzibophezeleni kwethu ekwenzeni izindwangu ezisebenza kahle kakhulu."
IPhini likaMongameli we-Unifi Global Key Account u-Chad Bolick uthe i-Repreve ukusebenza kabusha kwe-polyester fiber ihlangabezana nezidingo zokunethezeka, ukusebenza nokusimama, futhi ingasetshenziswa emikhiqizweni ehlukahlukene kusukela kwezimpahla nezicathulo kuya emikhiqizweni yasendlini. Uthe futhi "kuthatha indawo eqondile ye-polyester emsulwa ejwayelekile."
“Imikhiqizo eyenziwe nge-Repreve inekhwalithi efanayo nezici zokusebenza njengemikhiqizo eyenziwe nge-polyester engasetshenzisiwe-ithambile ngokulinganayo futhi inethezekile, futhi izici ezifanayo zingengezwa, njengokunwebeka, ukulawula umswakama, ukulawula ukushisa, ukuvimbela amanzi, nokunye. ,” kuchaza uBolik. Ngaphezu kwalokho, inciphise ukusetshenziswa kwamandla ngo-45%, ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi cishe ngama-20%, kanye nokukhishwa kwegesi ebamba ukushisa ngaphezu kwama-30%.
I-Unifi iphinde ibe neminye imikhiqizo enikezelwe emakethe yokusebenza, okuhlanganisa i-ChillSense, okuwubuchwepheshe obusha obuvumela indwangu ukuthi idlulise ukushisa okuvela emzimbeni ngokushesha kakhulu lapho ishumekwe ngamafayibha, okudala umuzwa wokuphola. Enye i-TruTemp365, esebenza ngezinsuku ezifudumele ukuze isuse umswakama emzimbeni futhi inikeze ukuvala ngezinsuku ezibandayo.
"Abathengi bayaqhubeka nokufuna ukuthi imikhiqizo abayithengayo ibe nezimfanelo eziningi zokusebenza kuyilapho igcina ukunethezeka," esho. “Kodwa futhi bafuna ukusimama ngenkathi bethuthukisa ukusebenza. Abathengi bayingxenye yomhlaba oxhumene kakhulu. Baya ngokuya beqaphela ukuzungeza okukhulu kwepulasitiki olwandle lwethu, futhi bayaqonda ukuthi imithombo yethu yemvelo iyancipha, ngakho, Baqaphela kakhulu ukubaluleka kokuvikela imvelo ezizukulwaneni ezizayo. Amakhasimende ethu ayaqonda ukuthi abathengi bafuna babe yingxenye yalesi sixazululo.”
Kodwa akuwona nje amafayibha okwenziwa ahlala eshintsha ukuze ahlangabezane nesidingo esikhulayo sabathengi kanye nokusimama. UStuart McCullough, umqondisi ophethe we-The Woolmark Company, ukhomba “izinzuzo zangaphakathi” zoboya be-Merino, obunikeza ukunethezeka nokusebenza.
“Abathengi namuhla bafuna imikhiqizo ngobuqotho nokuzibophezela emvelweni. I-Merino wool ayiyona nje into ewubukhazikhazi bemfashini yomklami, kodwa futhi iyisixazululo esisha semvelo semfashini yansuku zonke nezingubo zezemidlalo ezinemisebenzi eminingi. Selokhu kwaqubuka i-COVID-19, isidingo sabathengi sezimpahla zasekhaya nezimpahla zabagibeli siyaqhubeka sikhula,” kusho uMcCullough.
Wengeze ngokuthi ekuqaleni kwalolu bhubhane, izingubo zasekhaya ze-merino wool zanda kakhulu njengoba abantu besebenza besekhaya. Manje sebephumile futhi, ukugqokwa kwabagibeli bewuli, okubagcina bekude nezinto zokuhamba zomphakathi, ukuhamba ngezinyawo, ukugijima noma ukuhamba ngebhayisikili ukuya emsebenzini, nakho kubonakale kudume kakhulu.
Uthe ukuze basebenzise lokhu, ithimba lezobuchwepheshe lakwa-Woolmark lisebenzisana nezinkampani ezinkulu emkhakheni wezicathulo nezingubo ukuze kwandiswe ukusetshenziswa kwemicu ezicathulweni zokusebenza, njengezicathulo zokugijima ezilukiwe ze-APL. Inkampani yokuklama i-Knitwear i-Studio Eva x Carola isanda kwethula uchungechunge lwezibonelo zokugqokwa kwebhayisikili labesifazane, isebenzisa uboya be-merino obuchwepheshile, obungenamthungo, isebenzisa intambo yoboya be-merino ye-Südwolle Group eyenziwe ngemishini yokuluka ye-Santoni.
Uma ebheka phambili, uMcCullough uthe ukholelwa ukuthi isidingo sezinhlelo ezisimeme yisona esizoba nomthelela esikhathini esizayo.
“Izimboni zendwangu nezemfashini zingaphansi kwengcindezi yokuthi zishintshele ezinhlelweni ezisimeme,” esho. “Lezi zingcindezi zidinga izinkampani nabakhiqizi ukuthi bacabangele kabusha amasu abo wezinto ezibonakalayo bese bekhetha imicu enomthelela omncane kwezemvelo. Uboya base-Australia buhambisana nemvelo futhi buhlinzeka ngesixazululo sokuthuthukiswa kwendwangu esimeme. "
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Oct-21-2021