Empilweni yansuku zonke, sihlala sizwa ukuthi lena yi-plain weave, lena i-twill weave, lena i-satin weave, lena i-jacquard weave nokunye. Kodwa eqinisweni, abantu abaningi bayalahlekelwa ngemva kokuyilalela. Yini enhle ngakho? Namuhla, ake sikhulume ngezici kanye nokuhlonza lezi zindwangu ezintathu.
1.I-Plain weave, i-twill weave, ne-satin imayelana nesakhiwo sendwangu
Okubizwa ngokuthi i-plain weave, i-twill weave kanye ne-satin weave (i-satin) ibhekisela esakhiweni sendwangu. Ngokwesakhiwo sodwa, lezi zintathu azilungile noma azimbi, kodwa ngayinye inezici zayo ngenxa yomehluko wesakhiwo.
(1)Indwangu Engenalutho
Kuyigama elijwayelekile lendwangu kakotini ye-plain weave enemininingwane ehlukahlukene. Lezi zihlanganisa i-plain weave kanye ne-plain weave eguquguqukayo, izindwangu ezihlukahlukene ze-cotton plain weave ezinezincazelo ezahlukene kanye nezitayela. Okufana nalokhu: indwangu engenalutho eqinile, indwangu engenalutho ephakathi, indwangu ecacile, i-poplin ye-gauze, i-poplin ye-half-thread, i-poplin yomugqa ogcwele, intambo ye-hemp nendwangu engenalutho ebhulashiwe, njll. Kunezinhlobo ezingu-65 sezizonke.
Izintambo ze-warp ne-weft zihlanganiswe yonke enye intambo. Ukuthungwa kwendwangu kuqinile, kuyaklwebha, futhi ingaphezulu libushelelezi. Ngokuvamile, izindwangu ezihlotshisiwe eziphezulu zenziwe ngezindwangu ezilula.
Indwangu ye-Plain weave inamaphuzu amaningi okuluka, ukuthungwa okuqinile, indawo ebushelelezi, umphumela ofanayo wokubukeka ngaphambili nangemuva, ilula futhi izacile, kanye nokungena komoya okungcono. Isakhiwo se-plain weave sinquma ukuminyana kwayo okuphansi. Ngokuvamile, intengo yendwangu ye-plain weave iphansi kakhulu. Kodwa kukhona nezindwangu ezimbalwa ezilula ezimba eqolo, njengezindwangu ezifekethisiweyo ezisezingeni eliphezulu.
(2)Indwangu ye-Twill
Kuyitemu elijwayelekile lezindwangu zikakotini ezinemininingwane ehlukahlukene ye-twill weave, okuhlanganisa izinguquko ze-twill weave kanye ne-twill weave, nezindwangu ezihlukahlukene ze-cotton twill ezinemininingwane nezitayela ezahlukene. Okufana nalokhu: intambo yomugqa, i-serge yomugqa, i-half-line serge, i-gabardine yomugqa, i-gabardine yomugqa oyingxenye, i-khaki yomugqa, i-khaki yomugqa oyingxenye, i-khaki yomugqa ogcwele, i-brushed twill, njll, ingqikithi yezinhlobo ezingu-44.
Ku-twill fabric, i-warp ne-weft zihlanganiswa okungenani njalo ngezintambo ezimbili, okungukuthi, 2/1 noma 3/1. Ukwengeza amaphoyinti e-warp kanye ne-weft interweaving ukuze uguqule isakhiwo sendwangu ngokuhlangene kubizwa ngokuthi yi-twill fabric. Isici salolu hlobo lwendwangu ukuthi iwugqinsi futhi inokwakheka okuqinile kwezinhlangothi ezintathu. Isibalo sokubala singama-40, 60, njll.
(3)Indwangu yeSatin
Kuyigama elijwayelekile lokucaciswa okuhlukahlukene kwendwangu yekotini ye-satin weave. Lokhu kufaka phakathi ama-satin weave ahlukahlukene kanye nama-satin weave, imininingwane ehlukahlukene kanye nezitayela ze-satin weave.
I-warp ne-weft zihlanganiswa okungenani njalo ngezintambo ezintathu. Phakathi kwezindwangu, ukuminyana kuphakeme kakhulu futhi bukhulu kakhulu, futhi indawo yendwangu ibushelelezi, ithambile futhi igcwele ukucwebezela, kodwa izindleko zomkhiqizo ziphakeme, ngakho intengo izobiza kakhulu.
Inqubo yokweluka i-satin iyinkimbinkimbi uma kuqhathaniswa, futhi intambo eyodwa kuphela ye-warp ne-weft ivala ingaphezulu ngendlela yobude obuntantayo. I-warp satin evala indawo engaphezulu ibizwa ngokuthi i-warp satin; i-weft float evala ubuso ibizwa ngokuthi i-weft satin. Ubude obude obuntantayo benza ingaphezulu lendwangu libe nokucwebezela okungcono futhi kulula ukukhombisa ukukhanya. Ngakho-ke, uma ubhekisisa indwangu ye-satin yekotini, uzozizwa ucwebezela kancane.
Uma intambo yefilament ene-luster engcono isetshenziswa njengentambo ende entantayo, ukucwebezela kwendwangu kanye nokubonakala kokukhanya kuzogqama kakhulu. Isibonelo, indwangu ye-jacquard kasilika inomphumela okhanyayo we-silky. Izintambo ezinde ezintantayo ku-satin weave zijwayele ukubola, ukuphaphatheka noma imicu ekhishwayo. Ngakho-ke, amandla alolu hlobo lwendwangu aphansi kunezindwangu ezingenalutho kanye ne-twill. Indwangu enenani elifanayo lentambo inobuningi be-satin obuphezulu futhi ishubile, futhi izindleko nazo ziphezulu. I-Plain weave, i-twill weave, ne-satin yizindlela ezintathu eziyisisekelo zokuluka intambo yokuluka ne-weft. Awukho umehluko othize phakathi kokuhle nokubi, kodwa mayelana nobuciko, i-satin iyona engcono kakhulu yezindwangu ezihlanzekile zikakotini, futhi i-twill yamukelwa kakhulu imindeni eminingi.
Yayidumile eYurophu emakhulwini eminyaka ambalwa edlule, futhi izingubo zendwangu ye-jacquard seziphenduke zasendulo emndenini wasebukhosini kanye nezicukuthwane ukuze zibonise isithunzi nobuhle. Namuhla, amaphethini ahloniphekile kanye nezindwangu ezinhle kakhulu ziye zaba umkhuba wezindwangu zasekhaya eziphezulu. Indwangu ye-jacquard ishintsha i-warp ne-weft weave ngesikhathi sokwaluka ukuze kwakhe iphethini, inani lezintambo lilungile, futhi izidingo zezinto ezingavuthiwe ziphezulu kakhulu. Izintambo eziqondile nezilukiwe zendwangu ye-jacquard ziyaluka futhi ziyashintshashintsha ukuze zakhe amaphethini ahlukahlukene. Ukuthungwa kuthambile, kuthambile futhi kubushelelezi, kunokushelela okuhle, ukudonsa kanye nokungena komoya, nokushesha kombala okuphezulu.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Dec-09-2022