Kuleli hlobo nasekwindla, ngaphambi kokuba abesifazane babuyele ehhovisi, babonakala bethenga izingubo futhi baphume bayohlanganyela futhi. Izingubo zokuphola, ama-tops amahle, abesifazane kanye nama-sweaters, i-jeans evuthayo kanye ne-jeans eqondile, nezikhindi bezithengiswa kahle ezitolo zokuthengisa.
Nakuba izinkampani eziningi zilokhu zitshela izisebenzi ukuthi kudingeka ziqale ukubuya, abathengisi bathi ukuthenga izingubo zokusebenza akuyona into ehamba phambili ekhasimendeni.
Kunalokho, baye babona ukwanda okukhulu ekuthengeni izingubo abazozigqoka ngokushesha lapho beya emaphathini, emikhosini, ezindaweni zokosa inyama, amakhefi angaphandle, izidlo zakusihlwa nabangane, namaholidi. Ukuphrinta okukhanyayo nemibala kubalulekile ukuthuthukisa isimo sengqondo sabathengi.
Kodwa-ke, ama-wardrobes abo omsebenzi azobuyekezwa maduze, futhi abathengisi benze izibikezelo ezithile mayelana nokubukeka kwezingubo ezintsha zehhovisi ekwindla.
I-WWD ixoxisane nabathengisi abakhulu ukuze bafunde ngokuthengisa ezindaweni zamanje kanye nemibono yabo ngendlela entsha yokugqoka ebuyela emhlabeni.
“Mayelana nebhizinisi lethu asimbonanga eyothenga. Wagxila ekhabetheni lakhe eliqondile, ikhabethe lakhe lasehlobo. Asikasiboni isidingo sezimpahla zokusebenza zesintu sikhula,” umthengisi omkhulu we-Intermix u-Divya Mathur uthe inkampani idayiswe yi-Gap Inc. enkampanini ezimele i-Altamont Capital Partners kule nyanga.
Uchaze ukuthi kusukela ngobhubhane lwangoMashi 2020, amakhasimende awakaze athenge entwasahlobo edlule. “Empeleni akakavuseleli ikhabethe lakhe lesizini cishe iminyaka emibili. [Manje] ubegxile entwasahlobo ngo-100%,” uthe ugxile ekushiyeni ibhamuza lakhe, abuyele emhlabeni futhi edinga izingubo, kusho uMathur.
“Ufuna ingubo yasehlobo elula. Ingubo ye-poplin elula angayigqoka ngamateki. Usefuna nezimpahla zokuya eholidini,” kusho yena. UMathur uveze ukuthi amabhrendi afana noStaud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai kanye noZimmermann angeminye yemikhiqizo emikhulu edayiswayo njengamanje.
“Akusona lesi afuna ukusithenga manje. Wathi, 'Angijabulile ngokuthenga lokho engivele nginakho,' ”kusho yena. UMathur uthe ukuzaca kubalulekile njalo ku-Intermix. “Mayelana nezinto ezithrendayo njengamanje, usefuna okwakamuva. Kithina, lena i-jeans enokhalo oluphezulu ehamba iqonde emilenzeni, kanye nenguqulo yama-90s exege kancane ye-denim. Sise-Re/done Brands efana ne-AGoldE ne-AGoldE enza kahle. I-denim engaphambili ye-AGoldE ibilokhu ingumthengisi omangalisayo ngenxa yemininingwane yayo entsha ethokozisayo. Amajini enziwe kabusha/enziwe kabusha ayavutha. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukugeza kuka-Moussy Vintage Umphumela muhle kakhulu, futhi unamaphethini athakazelisayo okuketula,” kusho yena.
Okufushane ngesinye isigaba esidumile. I-Intermix iqale ukudayisa izikhindi zedenim ngoFebhuwari futhi isidayise amakhulukhulu azo. “Sijwayele ukubona izikhindi zedenim ziphinde zavela endaweni eseningizimu. Siqale ukukubona lokhu maphakathi noMashi, kodwa kwaqala ngoFebhuwari,” kusho uMather. Uthe konke lokhu kwenzelwa ukumlingana kangcono kanti ukuthunga “kuyashisa kakhulu”.
“Kodwa inguqulo yabo exegayo yinde kancane. Izwakala iphukile futhi isikiwe. Babuye bahlanzeke, bade futhi ukhalo lufana nesikhwama sephepha,” kusho yena.
Mayelana namawodilophu abo omsebenzi, uthe amakhasimende akhe aqhelelene kakhulu noma axutshwe ehlobo. "Bahlela ukuqhubeka nempilo ngokugcwele ngaphambi kwalolu bhubhane ekwindla." Wabona kunyakaza okuningi ngezingubo ezilukiweyo namahembe alukiwe.
“Umfaniswano wakhe wamanje yibhulukwe elihle kakhulu nehembe elihle noma ijezi elihle.” Ezinye zezinto eziphezulu abazidayisayo ezabesifazane ngu-Ulla Johnson noSea New York. “Lezi zinhlobo zingaphezulu ezinhle eziphrintiwe ezilukiwe, noma ngabe imininingwane ephrintiwe noma ekhiloshiwe, esho.
Lapho egqoke amajini, amakhasimende akhe akhetha izindlela zokuwasha ezithakazelisayo nezitayela ezifanele, kunokuthi “Ngifuna ibhulukwe elimhlophe.” Inguqulo yakhe ye-denim ayikhethayo yibhulukwe lemilenze eqondile enokhalo oluphezulu.
UMathur uthe usadayisa amateku asemfashinini anoveli. “Sibona ukukhula okukhulu ebhizinisini lezimbadada,” kusho yena.
“Ibhizinisi lethu lihle kakhulu. Lena impendulo eyakhayo ku-2019. Sizoqala ukuthuthukisa ibhizinisi lethu futhi. Sihlinzeka ngebhizinisi elingcono elinamanani agcwele kunango-2019,” kusho yena.
Uphinde wabona ukuthengiswa okushisayo kwezingubo zomcimbi. Amakhasimende abo awafuni izingubo zebhola. Uzohambela imishado, amaphathi ezinsuku zokuzalwa, emicimbini yokufika yobudala kanye nemicimbi yokuthweswa iziqu. Ufuna imikhiqizo esezingeni eliphezulu kunezingubo zokuphola ukuze abe yisivakashi emshadweni. I-Intermix yabona isidingo sikaZimmermann. “Sizishaya isifuba ngakho konke esikulethe ngalolo mkhiqizo,” kusho uMather.
“Abantu banemisebenzi kuleli hlobo, kodwa abanazo izingubo zokugqoka. Izinga lokululama liyashesha kunalokho ebesikulindele,” kusho yena. Ngenkathi i-Intermix ithenga le sizini ngoSepthemba, bacabanga ukuthi kuzothatha isikhathi eside ukubuya. Yaqala ukubuya ngoMashi no-April. “Besinovalo kancane lapho, kodwa sikwazile ukujaha umkhiqizo,” kusho yena.
Sekukonke, ukugqokwa kosuku oluphezulu kuhlanganisa ama-50% ebhizinisi lakho. “Ibhizinisi lethu lezehlakalo’ lithatha u-5% kuya ku-8% webhizinisi lethu,” kusho yena.
Wengeze ngokuthi kwabesifazane abaseholidini, bazothenga i-LoveShackFancy ka-Agua Bendita kanye ne-Agua, okokugcina kube izingubo zangempela zeholide.
URoopal Patel, iphini likamongameli omkhulu kanye nomqondisi wengqephu e-Saks Fifth Avenue, uthe: “Manje, abesifazane bayathenga nakanjani. Abesifazane abagqoki ngokuqondile ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa ngenxa yezimpilo zabo. Bahamba bayothenga izingubo ezindaweni zokudlela, badle i-brunch noma Isidlo sasemini, noma bahlale endaweni yokudlela engaphandle ukuze badle isidlo sakusihlwa. Wathi bathenga “izingubo ezinhle, ezikhululekile, ezikhululekile, ezijabulisayo nezinemibalabala ezingagijima zithuthukise isimo sabo sengqondo.” Imikhiqizo edumile emkhakheni wesimanje ihlanganisa u-Zimmermann no-Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai kanye ne-ALC.
Ngokuqondene ne-jean, u-Patel ubelokhu ekholelwa ukuthi i-jeans e-skinny ifana nesikibha esimhlophe. “Uma kukhona, uzakhela ikhabethe lakhe ledenim. Ubheke ezinqeni eziphakeme, ama-bell bottom angu-70s, imilenze eqondile, amawashi ahlukene, ukusikeka kwamasoka. Noma ngabe idenim emhlophe noma idenim emnyama, noma idolo Izimbobo eziklebhukile, namajakhethi ahambisanayo nezinhlanganisela zamajini nezinye izimpahla ezihambisanayo,” kusho yena.
Ucabanga ukuthi i-denim isiyingxenye yokudla kwakhe okuyisisekelo, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi uhamba ebusuku noma ushaya ucingo kulezi zinsuku. Ngesikhathi se-COVID-19, abesifazane bagqoka idenim, amajezi amahle nezicathulo ezipholishiwe.
“Ngicabanga ukuthi abantu besifazane bazoyihlonipha i-casual elements ye-denim, kodwa empeleni ngicabanga ukuthi abesifazane bazosebenzisa leli thuba ukugqoka kahle. Uma begqoka i-jeans nsuku zonke, akekho ofuna ukugqoka i-jeans. Empeleni ihhovisi lisinikeza ithuba lokugqoka izingubo zethu ezinhle kakhulu Ezinhle, izithende zethu ezinde kakhulu nezicathulo esizithandayo futhi sigqoke kahle,” kusho uPatel.
Uthe njengoba isimo sezulu sishintsha amakhasimende awafuni ukugqoka amajakhethi. “Ufuna ukubukeka emuhle, ufuna ukuzijabulisa. Sithengisa imibala ethokozisayo, sithengisa izicathulo ezicwebezelayo. Sidayisa amafulethi athakazelisayo,” kusho yena. “Abesifazane abathanda imfashini bawusebenzisa njengomgubho ukuveza isitayela sabo. Ukuzizwa kahle ngempela,” kusho yena.
Umqondisi wezokugqoka ezilungele ukugqokwa eBloomingdale u-Arielle Siboni uthe: “Manje, sibona amakhasimende esabela ekuthengeni okwengeziwe manje, gqokani imikhiqizo yamanje,” okuhlanganisa nezimpahla zasehlobo nezamaholide. “Kithina lokhu kusho iziketi eziningi ezilula ezinde, izikhindi zedenim nezingubo ze-poplin. Ukubhukuda nokucasha kunamandla ngempela kithina.”
“Ngokwezingubo zokugqoka, izitayela eziningi ze-bohemian, i-crochet ne-poplin, ne-midi ephrintiwe kusisebenzela kahle,” kusho yena. Izingubo ze-ALC, Bash, Maje kanye ne-Sandro zithengiswa kahle kakhulu. Uthe leli khasimende belilokhu limkhumbula ngoba ubegqoka ibhulukwe eliningi nezimpahla ezintofontofo uma esekhaya. “Manje unesizathu sokuthenga,” enezela.
Esinye isigaba esiqinile izikhindi. “Izikhindi zedenim zinhle kakhulu, ikakhulukazi kwa-AGoldE,” kusho yena. Uthe: “Abantu bafuna ukuzihlalela nje, futhi abantu abaningi basasebenza emakhaya naseZoom. Ungase ungaboni ukuthi ama-bottoms ayini. " Uthe zonke izinhlobo zezikhindi ziyadayiswa; ezinye zinemithungo emide yangaphakathi, Ezinye izikhindi.
Mayelana nezimpahla ezibuyela ehhovisi, uSiboni uthe ubone isibalo samajakhethi esudi “sikhula nakanjani, okuyinto ejabulisa kakhulu.” Uthe abantu sebeqalile ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa ulindele ukuvuthwa okugcwele ekwindla. Imikhiqizo yasekwindla yaseBloomingdale izofika ekuqaleni kuka-Agasti.
Ama-Skinny jeans asathengiswa, okuyingxenye enkulu yebhizinisi labo. Wabona i-denim iphenduka ibhulukwe lemilenze eqondile, okwaqala ukwenzeka ngaphambi kuka-2020. Amajini kamama nezitayela ze-retro ezengeziwe ziyathengiswa. "I-TikTok iqinisa lolu shintsho lube yisitayela esixegayo," kusho yena. Waqaphela ukuthi ijini lika-Rag & Bone lika-Miramar laliphrintiwe futhi libukeka njengebhulukwe lezemidlalo.
Imikhiqizo ye-denim esebenze kahle ihlanganisa i-Mother, i-AGoldE ne-AG. UPaige Mayslie ubedayisa amabhulukwe okugijima anemibala eyahlukene.
Endaweni engaphezulu, ngenxa yokuthi phansi kuyinto engavamile, ama-T-shirts abelokhu eqinile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, amahembe e-bohemian axegayo, amahembe e-prairie, namahembe anezintambo ezifekethisiwe nama-eyelets nawo athandwa kakhulu.
USiboni uthe baphinde badayise izingubo zakusihlwa eziningi ezithokozisayo nezigqamile, izingubo ezimhlophe zomakoti nezingubo zakusihlwa zikanokusho ze-prom. Emishadweni yasehlobo, ezinye izingubo ezivela ku-Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua noNookie zifaneleka kakhulu izivakashi. Uthe i-LoveShackFancy igqoke izingubo ezisindayo, "iyamangalisa kakhulu." Futhi banezingubo eziningi zeholide ze-bohemian nezingubo ezingagqokwa eshaweni yomshado.
USiboni uveze ukuthi ibhizinisi lokubhalisa labadayisi linamandla kakhulu, okukhombisa ukuthi abashadikazi sebezichaza kabusha izinsuku zabo zomshado futhi kunesidingo sempahla yesivakashi nomakoti.
U-Yumi Shin, usomabhizinisi omkhulu waseBergdorf Goodman, uthe ngonyaka odlule, amakhasimende abo abelokhu eguquguquka, ethenga imikhiqizo ekhethekile egqama kumafoni e-Zoom kanye ne-splurge yomuntu siqu.
“Njengoba sibuyela esimweni esijwayelekile, sizizwa sinethemba. Ukuthenga nakanjani kuyinjabulo entsha. Hhayi nje ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa nokuhlangana okudala kulindelwe nomndeni nabangane abacabanga ngezinhlelo zokuhamba. Kumele kube nethemba,” kusho uShen.
Muva nje, babone isithakazelo kuma-silhouette othando, okuhlanganisa imikhono egcwele noma imininingwane ye-ruffle. Uthe u-Ulla Johnson wenze kahle. "Ungumkhiqizo omuhle kakhulu futhi ukhuluma namakhasimende amaningi ahlukene," kusho uShin, wengeza ngokuthi yonke imikhiqizo yomkhiqizo ithengiswa kahle. “Kufanele ngisho ukuthi yena [uJohnson] uwubufakazi balolu bhubhane. Sidayisa iziketi ezinde, iziketi ezibude bumaphakathi, futhi sesiqala ukubona iziketi ezimfishane. Udume ngama-prints akhe, futhi siphinde simdayisele ama-jumpsuits anemibala eqinile. Amabhulukwe, i-navy blue pleated jumpsuit iyasidlalela.”
Izingubo zezikhathi zingesinye isigaba esidumile. “Nakanjani sibona izingubo sezidumile futhi. Njengoba amakhasimende ethu eqala ukulungiselela imicimbi efana nemishado, imicimbi yokuthweswa iziqu, nokuhlangana nabangane nomndeni, sibona izingubo zokugqoka ezithengiswayo zithengiswa kusuka kokujwayelekile kuya kweminye, ngisho nezingubo zomshado seziphinde zaduma,” kusho uShin.
Mayelana ne-skinny jeans, uthe, "I-skinny jeans izohlale iyinto okufanele ibe nayo ku-wardrobe, kodwa sithanda imikhiqizo emisha esiyibonayo. I-denim efakiwe, amabhulukwe emilenze eqondile kanye namabhulukwe anemilenze ebanzi enokhalo oluphezulu adumile ngeminyaka yama-90s. Siyithanda kakhulu impela.” Uthe uhlobo olukhethekile, i-Still Here, lutholakala e-Brooklyn, olukhiqiza i-batch denim encane, ependwe ngesandla yaphinde yapeshwa, futhi yenza umsebenzi omuhle. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-Totême yenza kahle, “Sidayisa nama-denim amhlophe.” I-Totême inezingubo eziningi zokuluka ezinhle nezingubo, ezingajwayelekile.
Lapho ebuzwa ngemifaniswano emisha lapho abathengi sebebuyela ehhovisi, uthe: “Ngicabanga ukuthi indlela entsha yokugqoka izokhululeka futhi ivumelane nezimo. Induduzo isabalulekile, kodwa ngicabanga ukuthi izoshintsha izitayela zansuku zonke zokunethezeka. Sibone amasudi amaningi e-chic knitwear esiwathandayo.” Uthe ngaphambi kokuwa, bethule uhlobo lokunitha olukhethekile, uLisa Yang, olumayelana nokumataniswa kwezingubo zokugqoka. Itholakala eStockholm futhi isebenzisa i-cashmere yemvelo. “Yinhle kakhulu futhi yenza kahle, futhi siyethemba ukuthi izoqhubeka nokwenza kahle. Ukhululekile kodwa u-chic. "
Wengeze ngokuthi ubebuka ukusebenza kwejakhethi, kodwa ekhululekile. Uthe ukuguquguquka nokuthunga kuzoba wukhiye. “Abesifazane bazofuna ukuthatha izingubo zabo besuka ekhaya baye ehhovisi ukuze bahlangane nabangane; kufanele ibe nezinto ezihlukahlukene futhi imfanele. Lokhu kuzoba yindlela entsha yokugqoka,” kusho yena.
U-Libby Page, Umhleli Omkhulu Wezokumaketha we-Net-a-porter, uthe: “Njengoba amakhasimende ethu ebheke ngabomvu ukubuyela ehhovisi, sibona ushintsho lusuka ekugqokeni okuvamile luye ezitayeleni ezithuthuke kakhulu. Mayelana nezitayela, sibona kuChloé, Zimmermann no-Isabel. Ukuphrinta kweMarant kanye namaphethini ezimbali ezingubo zabesifazane kuye kwanda-lokhu kungumkhiqizo owodwa ophelele wezingubo zokusebenza zasentwasahlobo, futhi ezifanele izinsuku ezifudumele nobusuku. Njengengxenye yomcimbi wethu we-HS21, sizokwethula i-'Chic in' ngoJuni 21 i-The Heat' igcizelela isimo sezulu esifudumele nokugqoka ukuze ubuyele emsebenzini.”
Uthe uma kukhulunywa ngezitayela ze-denim babona izitayela ezixegayo, ezinkudlwana nokwanda kwezitayela zamabhaluni, ikakhulukazi ngonyaka odlule, ngenxa yokuthi amakhasimende abo afuna ukunethezeka kuzo zonke izici zekhabethe lakhe. Uthe i-jeans eqondile yakudala isiphenduke isitayela esiguquguqukayo ekhabetheni, futhi uhlobo lwabo luzivumelanise nalesi simo ngokungeza lesi sitayela eqoqweni layo eliyinhloko.
Lapho ebuzwa ukuthi amateki awakhethayo yini okokuqala, wathi i-Net-a-porter yethule amathoni amasha amhlophe kanye nomumo we-retro nezitayela ehlobo, njengokuhlanganyela kuka-Loewe no-Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Mayelana nalokho akulindele ngomfaniswano omusha wasehhovisi kanye nemfashini entsha yezimpahla zokuxhumana, uPage uthe, “Imibala egqamile evusa injabulo izoba ngumlando wentwasahlobo. Iqoqo lethu lakamuva le-capsule le-Dries Van Noten lihlanganisa ukungathathi hlangothi ngezitayela nezindwangu ezikhululekile. , Ubuhle obukhululekile nobujabulisayo obuhambisana nanoma yikuphi ukubukeka kwansuku zonke. Siphinde sibone ukuduma kwedenim kuqhubeka nokukhuphuka, ikakhulukazi ukwethulwa kwethu kwakamuva kokuhlanganyela kuka-Valentino x Levi. Sithemba ukubona amakhasimende ethu egqokisa ihhovisi lawo Libhangqa nedenim ukuze libukeke likhululekile futhi lishintshele edilini lesidlo sakusihlwa,” kusho yena.
Izinto ezidumile ku-Net-a-porter zifaka phakathi izinto ezidumile ezivela e-Frankie Shop, njengamajakhethi aphediwe kanye nesudi yabo yezemidlalo ye-Net-a-porter ekhethekile; Imiklamo ka-Jacquemus, efana neziqongo neziketi, nezingubo ezinde ezinemininingwane engcolile, izingubo zezimbali nezabesifazane zika-Doen, kanye nezinto ezibalulekile zekhabethe lentwasahlobo nelasehlobo lika-Totême.
UMarie Ivanoff-Smith, umqondisi wengqephu yabesifazane eNordstrom, uthe amakhasimende amanje acabanga ukubuyela emsebenzini futhi aseqala ukuzibandakanya nezindwangu ezilukiwe kanye nenani elikhulu lezindwangu zamahembe. “Ziyakwazi ukwenza izinto eziningi. Angakwazi ukugqoka noma ukugqoka, angakwazi ukuwagqoka manje, futhi angabuyela ehhovisi ngokuphelele ekwindla.
"Sibone ukubuya kokwelukiweyo, hhayi ukuthi sibuyele emsebenzini kuphela, kodwa siphume ebusuku, wabe eseqala ukubheka lokhu." Uthe i-Nordstrom isebenze kahle kakhulu ne-Rag & Bone kanye no-Nili Lotan, futhi wathi “banendwangu yehembe Elihle”. Wathi ukuphrinta nombala kubaluleke kakhulu. “IRio Farms iyayibulala. Asikwazi ukuqhubeka. Kuhle kakhulu lokhu,” kusho yena.
Uthe amakhasimende athambekele kakhulu kuma-contours omzimba futhi angakhombisa isikhumba esiningi. “Izimo zenhlalo ziyenzeka,” kusho yena. Ubalule izibonelo zabaphakeli abafana no-Ulla Johnson abenza kahle esifundeni. Uphinde waveza ukuthi u-Alice + Olivia bazokwethula izingubo eziningi zokugqoka emicimbini yokuzijabulisa. I-Nordstrom yenze umsebenzi omuhle ngemikhiqizo efana no-Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud kanye no-Cinq à Sept. Lo mthengisi wenza umsebenzi omuhle wezingubo zasehlobo.
Uthe ubone izingubo zokugqoka ezihambisana nayo yonke imidlalo zenziwa kahle ngonyaka odlule ngoba zintofontofo. “Manje sibona izinsimbi namakhwela kubuya nemibhalo emihle. Ngenjabulo nangemizwa, phuma uphele endlini,” kusho yena.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jul-08-2021