Okokuqala, Ake ngikubuze umbuzo: ingabe isudi iqukethe izingxenye ezimbili: indwangu kanye nezinsiza?
Cha, impendulo ayilungile.Isudi yakhiwe izingxenye ezintathu: indwangu, izesekeli kanye nolayini.
Indwangu kanye nezesekeli zibaluleke kakhulu, kodwa ikhwalithi ye-suit incike ku-lining, ngoba ihlanganisa izinto ezimbili ezihluke ngokuphelele ze-ductile, indwangu kanye nezesekeli.
Indlela eshibhile, efanelekile yengubo ukusebenzisa i-adhesive lining, ngisho nayo yonke into eyenziwe ngezandla, kodwa ukusebenzisa isudi ye-adhesive lining kungase kube ngaphansi kwama-yuan angu-2000 okulandelayo, izinga eliphansi lesudi ye-adhesive lining ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, uzothola ukuthi i-suit yezindwangu nezesekeli ngeke zisafanelana, idonselana kwenye indawo, kubonakala sengathi ihlukanisa umdlalo.
I-lining enhle, isibonelo, amasudi ebhizinisi enziwe yi-YUNAI kufanele enziwe ngoboya, ilineni kanye nomhlwenga wehhashi. Kafushane, impahla yemvelo iyadingeka. Inhloso ukusiza indwangu yesudi kanye nezinsiza ukuthi zihambe kancane kancane ngenkathi kuzisiza ukuthi zisethe kabusha.
Isici sesibili: nakuba ikhwalithi yezinto ezisetshenziswayo ithonywa yizici eziningi, intengo yendwangu manje incike ikakhulukazi endaweni yemvelaphi. Intengo yezindwangu zasekhaya ihluke kakhulu kunezindwangu ezivela kwamanye amazwe, ikakhulukazi ezivela e-Italy naseBrithani.
Izindwangu zesudi eziphezulu emhlabeni zifaka: I-Ermenegildo Zegna , LORO PIANA ,VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO ,REDA ,CERRUTI 1881 , YUNAI, okuwumdondoshiya wovolo wase-Italy;Futhi iwuphawu lwekhwalithi yoboya.CHARLES CLAYTON, ezine ezilandelayo ngezindala zase-Britain abakhiqizi boboya abayigugu kakhulu. Izinhlobo eziphezulu zendwangu yehembe iBrithani THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO njalo njalo.Isitolo esidayisa izinto ezijwayelekile sinezinhlobo ezingaphezu kwezimbalwa zamasudi nezindwangu zehembe ngokuyisisekelo siyisitolo esisebenza ngezifiso.
Imvamisa, lezi zimboni zinezidingo eziqinile kumazinga ochwepheshe ezitolo zangokwezifiso. Kuphela lapho befinyelela izindinganiso ezihambisanayo lapho bezogunyaza ukusetshenziswa kwezindwangu zabo kanye nezimpawu zokuthengisa.Ngaphezu kwalokho, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi usebenzisa izindwangu zasekhaya noma ezivela kwamanye amazwe, izithako ngokuyisisekelo ziwuboya, yiqiniso, kuzoba nezinye izithako, njenge-cashmere. , kodwa izindwangu ezisezingeni eliphezulu zenziwe ngezindwangu zemvelo kunezinto zokwenziwa, kodwa awukwazi ukwenza izimfuno eziqinile ezindwangu zasekhaya.
1. Indwangu yoboya obuhlanzekile bonakele
Indwangu yoboya ibhekisela endwangu eyenziwe ngoboya noma uboya kanye ne-polyester, i-viscose, i-acrylic, njll.
Uboya obubi kakhulu yindwangu yezinga eliphezulu eyenziwe ngoboya bezimvu obuhlanzekile futhi obuhlanzekile, obungaxutshwa nengxenye ethile yefiber yamakhemikhali yoboya noma enye i-fiber yemvelo, futhi icutshungulwe ngemishini yokukama, ukuhlanganisa, ukuklama, ukuphotha, ukuluka, ukudaya nokuqeda. izikhathi eziningi.
Inokuguquguquka okuhle ukuthi indawo yoboya besilwane inobulili obungavamile, obuthambile, ubulili obuhlukile obuhlukile kanye nobulili obukwazi ukumelana nocansi, lapho imunca umswakama noma umjuluko wendluzele ukuze igcine ucansi olufudumele.
Izingubo ezenziwe ngomumo ezenziwe ngezindwangu ezinhle zoboya zihlala isikhathi eside futhi ngeke zikhubazekile isikhathi eside. Zinesizotha ikakhulukazi ngenxa yokuntuleka kwe-aurora. Zibushelelezi futhi zibushelelezi ekuthunjweni, zinhle ngokubukeka, zihlanzekile futhi zihlanzekile, zigcwele ukuxhumana, isitayela sakudala, zithambile futhi zemvelo ngokucwebezela njalonjalo.
Okubizwa ngokuthi ama-worsted and woolen, wazama ukuchaza, kusukela ku-Angle of two one is above the fibre, the other is to weave, fibre spinning in 32 and above 40, count the fibre of the smooth, less joints, natural high density, ukumelana okuhle kwe-abrasion, ukunethezeka okuhle, enye i-weave, indwangu embi kakhulu elukwe umshini wendwangu emihle, ivimbela ukuphuka kwe-fiber, i-dense degree iphakeme, indwangu yoboya, ihlangene, kulula ukuphuka, Umehluko wokumelana nokugqoka kwemvelo, ukuminyana akukuhle.
Izindwangu ezihlanzekile zoboya obugayiwe zincane kakhulu, zinendawo ebushelelezi nemigqa ecacile.
Umzimba ucwebile, uthambile futhi unwebeka.
Bamba okokusebenza ngemva kokuqaqa, ngokuyisisekelo akukho ukugoqa, noma ngabe kukhona i-crease encane nayo inganyamalala ngesikhathi esifushane kakhulu.
Ukuhlonza indwangu yoboya obuhlanzekile:
Indwangu yoboya ehlanzekile enombala wemvelo othambile kanye nomphumela omuhle oshisayo yisinqumo sokuqala sokwenza amasudi aphezulu kanye namajazi.
Kodwa manje izindwangu eziningi ezifana noboya, njengoba ukuthuthukiswa kobuchwepheshe bendwangu, sekufinyelele izinga lamakhasimende amaningi okunzima ukuwabona, kodwa umbala, ukufudumala, ukuzwa nokunye kuncane kakhulu kunezindwangu zoboya ezihlanzekile.
Okulandelayo kwethula izindlela ezimbalwa zokuhlonza indwangu yoboya emsulwa, ukuze uthole inkomba ekukhetheni izingubo nofulawa.
Okokuqala, thinta.
Izindwangu zoboya obuhlanzekile ngokuvamile zizizwa zibushelelezi, izindwangu zoboya ezinde kanye nokuzwakala kwezinwele ezibushelelezi, ezihlehlayo ezinyakazayo.Futhi i-fiber yamakhemikhali ehlanganisiwe noma emsulwa, enye ithambile kancane, enye ithambile kakhulu futhi ixega, nomuzwa onamathelayo.
Okwesibili, bheka umbala.
Umbala wendwangu yoboya obuhlanzekile uthambile futhi ungokwemvelo, uyagqama futhi awuphelelwa yisikhathi.Ngokuphambene, i-chemical fiber surface ehlanganisiwe noma ehlanzekile, noma i-luster imnyama, noma inomuzwa wokukhanya.
Okwesithathu, bheka ukunwebeka.
Bamba indwangu uyiqinise ngesandla, bese uyikhulula ngokushesha ukuze ubone ukuthi indwangu inwebeka kangakanani.Izinga lokuphinda libophe indwangu yoboya obuhlanzekile liphezulu, lingabuyisela ngokushesha esimweni salo sangempela, futhi lihlanganise noma imikhiqizo yefiber yamakhemikhali, ukumelana nemibimbi kubi, iningi imibimbi ebonakala kakhudlwana, noma ukululama kancane.
Okwesine. Ukuhlonza ukusha.
Thatha inqwaba yezintambo, sebenzisa umlilo, i-wool fiber ehlanzekile iphunga njengezinwele ezivuthayo, i-fiber yamakhemikhali iphunga njengepulasitiki evuthayo.Uma izinhlayiya ziba lukhuni ngemva kokuvutha, izakhi ze-fiber zamakhemikhali ziba namandla.
1.Single impande ukuhlonza.
Izinwele ngaphansi ngesibonakhulu ukubona zonke izilwane abe isikali, uma kukhona izinwele ezinde izindwangu inqobo nje ukuthatha izinwele like ngenhla wabeka izikhathi ezimbalwa izonyakaza phezulu noma phansi (ukuze balukhulume leli khono kungathatha izinwele kusukela ucwaningo lokuqala), uma kuyindwangu evamile, ukukhipha intambo yezimpande, usike u-2 cm wezigaba ezimbili zibe fibre eyodwa ngaphansi kwesandla gcoba ezine noma ezinhlanu, ngeke zinyakaze.
2. Indwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya ne-polyester
Indwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya, okuyi-cashmere, i-polyester, i-spandex, izinwele zikanogwaja neminye imicu kanye nezindwangu zendwangu ezixutshwe ngoboya. Indwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya ne-polyester, ngaphansi kwelanga, indawo engaphezulu ine-flash point, indwangu ihlanzekile futhi iqinile, i-elasticity enhle, bamba. indwangu ekhululekile, cishe akukho imibimbi.
Isiqondiso se-warp, i-warp, ukuminyana kwe-warp
- Isiqondiso sobude bendwangu;
Izintambo eziseceleni zibizwa ngokuthi yizintambo eziqondile;
Inombolo yezintambo ezihlelwe ngaphakathi kweyintshi engu-1 i-warp density;
Isiqondiso se-Weft, ukugcwalisa nokugcwalisa ukuminyana
- Isiqondiso sobubanzi bendwangu;
Intambo ibizwa ngokuthi i-weft, futhi inombolo yezintambo ngaphakathi kwe-intshi yi-weft density.
Ukuminyana
- Isetshenziselwa ukumela inani lezintambo ngobude beyunithi ngayinye yendwangu yeshuttle, ngokuvamile inani lezintambo ngaphakathi kweyintshi elingu-1 noma amasentimitha ayi-10. Izindinganiso zikazwelonke zaseShayina zicacisa ukuthi inani lezintambo phakathi kwamasentimitha angu-10 lisetshenziselwa ukumela ukuminyana, kodwa amabhizinisi endwangu asasebenzisa inani lezintambo phakathi kweyintshi elingu-1 ukuze amele ukuminyana.
Isibonelo, okuvame ukubonakala okuthi "45×45/108×58" kubhekisela emiculweni ye-weft ne-warp enobuningi obungu-108 kanye no-58 ngokulandelanayo.
Ububanzi
- Ububanzi obusebenzayo bendwangu ngokuvamile buvezwa ngamasentimitha noma amasentimitha. Ezivamile ziyi-36 amayintshi, 44 amayintshi, 56-60 amayintshi, njll, okuthiwa emincane, medium and ububanzi, ngokulandelana. Izindwangu eziphakeme kunama-intshi angu-60 zibanzi kakhulu, ngokuvamile zibizwa ngendwangu yobubanzi obubanzi.
Ububanzi ngokuvamile buphawulwa ngemuva kokuminyana. Isibonelo, uma indwangu eshiwo ku-: 3 yengezwe ngobubanzi, izovezwa ngokuthi "45×45/108×58/60" ", okungukuthi ububanzi buyi-intshi engu-60.
Isisindo
- Isisindo segremu sendwangu ngokuvamile siyigramu yesisindo sendwangu ngamamitha ayizikwele. Isisindo segram siyinkomba ebalulekile yezobuchwepheshe yezindwangu eziboshwe, futhi isisindo segram sivame ukuthathwa njengenkomba yezobuchwepheshe ebalulekile yezindwangu zoboya.
Isisindo segremu sedenim ngokuvamile sivezwa ngokuthi “OZ”, okungukuthi, inani lama-ounces esisindo sendwangu ngeyadi yesikwele, njengama-ounces angu-7, ama-ounces angu-12 edenim, njll.
Okudaywe ngentambo
E-Japan, ibizwa ngokuthi "indwangu edayiwe", okubhekisela enkambisweni yokudaya intambo noma i-filament bese weluka indwangu ngentambo enemibala. Lolu hlobo lwendwangu lubizwa ngokuthi "indwangu edaywe ngentambo". Izimboni ezikhiqiza indwangu edaywe ngentambo ngokuvamile zibizwa ngokuthi izimboni zokudaya nezokuluka, njengedenim, futhi izindwangu zamahembe eziningi zidaywa ngentambo.
3. Indwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya ne-viscose
Ukucwebezela kufiphele.
Umuzwa omubi kakhulu ubuthakathaka, kuyilapho umuzwa wewuli uxega.
Lolu hlobo lwendwangu alunwebekanga futhi lucwebile kunoboya obumsulwa kanye ne-wool-polyester, indwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya obuhle.Uma okuqukethwe kwe-viscose kuphezulu, indwangu kulula ukugoqa.
Indwangu ehlanzekile ye-fiber yoboya efana nendwangu yendabuko ye-viscose, i-fiber yokwenziwa yokwenziwa njengempahla yendwangu efana noboya, i-luster dim, ukuzwa okuthambile, ukungabi nomuzwa ohlanzekile. indlela ephumelelayo yokuhlonza indwangu ye-viscose ukuthi amandla entambo ekhishwe endwangu ngokusobala ayancipha uma imanzi kunalapho yomile.Ngaphezu kwalokho, le ndwangu efana noboya Ngokuthuthuka kwesayensi nobuchwepheshe, imikhiqizo yoboya obulingisa ngombala, umuzwa, ukuqina nayo iye yaba khona.
Izinhlobo Eziyinhloko:
Izinwele zikanogwaja
Ngokuvamile, ingxenye ethile yoboya bukanogwaja noboya iyahlanganiswa futhi ilukwe. Izici zejezi likanogwaja limi emiculweni yalo emihle, ukuzwa okubushelelezi kanye ne-waxy, isihlwathi esithambile nesithambile, kanye nokushelela kahle. Kukhululekile futhi kungokwemvelo ukugqoka, futhi ukulala endaweni ephakathi kulula ukuwa.
Uma inqubo yokwenza ijezi kuqala bese iyadaya (okungukuthi ukuluka bese udaya) yamukelwa, umbala nokucwebezela kuzoba msulwa kakhulu futhi kube yinhle, kube ne-lattice eyingqayizivele, elungele ikakhulukazi izingubo zangaphandle zabesifazane abasebasha.
Izinwele ze-chemical fiber
Isici esivamile sezingubo ukukhanya kwayo.
Yiba njengehembe le-acrylic, uluke ngentambo yobuningi be-acrylic ngokuvamile, uvolo walo ubukeka uqinile, umbala nokucwebezela, ikhwalithi yento iwukukhukhumala okuthambile okukhanyayo, izinga lokubuyisa umswakama lingu-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla e-fiber break made kune-wool fiber, ngeke i-moth, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kubuyiselwa izinga liphansi kunoboya, gcina ubulili obufudumele bungaphansi kwejezi le-wool elihlanzekile, intengo ishibhile, kodwa i-pilling elula, ifanele izingane izingubo zokugqoka.
Muva nje, imakethe yamazwe ngamazwe eya ku-acrylic, i-polyamide fiber blended ntambo, i-mohair modified acrylic mitation yarn, yayo ibe amajezi ingaqhathaniswa nezinwele zonogwaja zemvelo, izingubo ze-mohair.
Izinwele zezilwane zihlanganiswe nemicu yamakhemikhali
“Inezici ezihambisanayo” zezinwele ezihlukahlukene zezilwane nemicu yamakhemikhali, futhi ukubonakala kwayo kunoboya, amandla okunweba ayathuthukiswa, nezindleko zejezi ziyancipha. Kungumkhiqizo omuhle futhi ongabizi.
Kodwa kujezi elihlanganisiwe, kunenkinga yokuthi umphumela wokudaya awulungile ngenxa yekhono elihlukene lokudaya kanye nekhono lokumunca imibala lezinhlobo ezahlukene zemicu.
4. I-fiber yokwenziwa efana noboya
AbaseBrithani baba ngabokuqala ukutadisha ukukhishwa kwamaprotheni ku-glue yezilwane ukuze enze imicu yamaprotheni yokwenziwa.
Ngo-1935, abanye abantu e-Italy bazama ukukhipha ushizi obisini ukuze benze uvolo wokwenziwa.
Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, amanye amazwe aye azuza impumelelo ekwenzeni imicu yokwenziwa ngamaprotheni kabhontshisi wesoya namaprotheni amakinati.
Ngenxa yezinkinga zokusetshenziswa kanye nezindleko zokukhiqiza zemicu enjalo, ukukhiqizwa kuncane.
I-YUNAI ifiphele, ukuntula umuzwa opholile, ngenxa yokungaqini kahle, kulula kakhulu ukuvela zou Fold, futhi akulula ukunyamalala.
Kunezinhlobo ezimbili zemicu eyenziwe umuntu: i-fibre evuselelwe kanye ne-chemical fiber. I-fiber evuselelwe kabusha i-viscose fiber eyenziwe ngokhuni notshani fiber ngokucutshungulwa kwamakhemikhali.
I-Chemical fiber iyifayibha yokwenziwa eyenziwe nge-petroleum, igesi yemvelo, amalahle nemikhiqizo yezolimo.
Ngokuma nokusetshenziswa kwemicu eyenziwe umuntu, kunezinhlobo ezintathu: i-rayon, i-rayon noboya.
Izinhlobo ezibalulekile zine-viscose fiber, i-acetate fiber, i-copper ammonia fiber nokunye.
I-fiber evuselelwe ingahlukaniswa ibe i-cellulose fiber evuselelwe kabusha, i-cellulose ester fiber, i-protein fiber kanye neminye i-polymer fiber yemvelo.
Izakhiwo zayo uma kuqhathaniswa nemicu yamakhemikhali, imicu eyisisekelo.
Indwangu ye-fiber eyenziwe ngumuntu ngokuyisisekelo iwukukhomba i-viscose fiber filament kanye nendwangu yefayibha eyisisekelo, okungukuthi ukotini owenziwe umuntu abantu abajwayele, i-rayon njll.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, kuhlanganisa nengxenye yendwangu ecebile yefayibha kanye nendwangu yobude obuphakathi yefayibha phakathi kwefilament kanye nesisekelo.
Ngakho-ke, izakhiwo zezindwangu ze-fiber yomuntu zinqunywa ikakhulukazi izakhiwo ze-viscose fibers.
Izindwangu ze-rayon ne-rayon zithambile lapho uzithinta, ziyaphefumula futhi zikhululekile ukugqokwa, futhi zinemibala egqamile.
Indwangu ye-fiber eyenziwe ngumuntu ine-hygroscopicity enhle, futhi i-hygroscopicity yayo ingcono kakhulu ku-chemical fiber.Kodwa amandla ayo amanzi aphansi kakhulu, cishe i-50% yamandla omile kuphela, futhi izinga lokuncipha kwendwangu likhulu, ngakho-ke kufanele linciphe kusengaphambili. ngaphambi kokusika kwaba ngcono.
Indwangu ye-viscose evamile inezici zokudonsa okuhle, ukuqina okungalungile, ukuqina nokumelana nokushwabana, ngakho-ke ingubo yayo inokulondolozwa kwesimo esibi futhi ijwayele ukushwabana.
Indwangu ye-Viscose fiber inokumelana okuhle kwe-asidi ne-alkali, ukumelana nokukhanya kwelanga nokunye ukumelana nezidakamizwa.
5.Pure chemical fiber wool-like material
Ngokuvamile, i-synthetic fiber isetshenziswa njengento eyinhloko, i-fiber yokwenziwa noma usilika onemibala njengentambo eyisizayo, kanti enye i-fibre yokwenziwa yenoveli isetshenziswa njengento eyinhloko, enesakhiwo sendwangu esifanele. Lolu hlobo lwendwangu lunezinhlobo ezimbili zoqalo, isitayela semvelo.
Inesici sesitayela semvelo se-fiber yemvelo.
Indwangu inombala ogqamile, inhle ekucwebezeleni, icwebile futhi inwebeka, ifanele umphakathi.
I-Chemical fiber wool, isici esivamile sezingubo silula.
Yiba njengehembe le-acrylic, uluke ngentambo yobuningi be-acrylic ngokuvamile, uvolo walo ubukeka uqinile, umbala nokucwebezela, ikhwalithi yento iwukukhukhumala okuthambile okukhanyayo, izinga lokubuyisa umswakama lingu-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla e-fiber break made kune-wool fiber, ngeke i-moth, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kubuyiselwa izinga liphansi kunoboya, gcina ubulili obufudumele bungaphansi kwejezi le-wool elihlanzekile, intengo ishibhile, kodwa i-pilling elula, ifanele izingane izingubo zokugqoka.
Muva nje, imakethe yomhlaba wonke ye-acrylic, i-poly-amide fibre blended ntambo, i-acrylic modified acrylic mitation mohair yarn, yayo ibe yihembe ingafaniswa nezinwele zonogwaja zemvelo, izingubo ze-mohair.
Izinwele zezilwane kanye ne-chemical fiber ehlanganisiwe yoboya, enezinwele ezihlukahlukene zezilwane kanye nemicu yamakhemikhali "izici ezihambisanayo", ukubukeka kwayo kunomuzwa woboya, amandla okunweba ayathuthukiswa, kunciphisa izindleko zejezi, imikhiqizo eshibhile futhi emihle.
Kodwa kujezi elihlanganisiwe, kunenkinga yokuthi izinhlobo ezahlukene zemicu zinekhono elihlukile lokudaya kanye nekhono lokumunca umbala, okubangela ukuthi umphumela wokudaya ungabi muhle.
Hlukanisa phakathi kwezinto ezinjengoboya be-fiber yamakhemikhali kanye nendwangu yoboya ehlanzekile:
Indwangu efana noboya ngokuvamile yenziwe nge-chemical fiber, futhi i-viscose fiber ingaphezulu, njenge-polyester/viscose medium long wool, i-polyester ehlanzekile neminye imikhiqizo efana novolo.
Okokuqala, i-gloss ihlukile.
Indwangu yovolo ehlanzekile ithambile kakhulu futhi iyimvelo, inombala ongemuhle kangako. Indwangu yoboya yokulingisa i-Chemical fibre inothile ngombala futhi igqamile. Uma ubhekisisa kahle ngaphansi kwelanga, ngokuvamile uyobona izindawo zokukhanya ezikhanyayo nezicwebezelayo.
Leli phuzu lokulingisa uboya obupholile ukuze lifane nendwangu yoboya nalo lingakwazi ukuhlukaniswa.
Okwesibili, ukuzwa nokunwebeka kuhlukile.
Izindwangu zovolo ezihlanzekile zizwakala zithambile, zibushelelezi kancane, ithambo lomzimba, zishwabene kancane kodwa hhayi ziqinile, zithambile kodwa zingabuyeli ngokuqondile;
Ngenkathi i-polyester, ibukeka njengovolo, kodwa izwakala ithambile futhi ibushelelezi, alikho ithambo lomzimba, ishwabana kakhudlwana, i-rebound ehamba kancane.
Okwesithathu, shisa usilika ngemva kokudweba.
Intambo yendwangu yoboya ehlanzekile ingabonakala ngemva kokungalingani kwefayibha yoboya, ubude obuhlukile, i-curl yemvelo, kanye ne-viscose belingisa ubude bendwangu yendwangu yoboya, umfaniswano wokujiya uyavumelana.
Ngemva komlilo, ngemva komlilo ovuthayo kancane, ushiya umlilo uqhubeka uvutha, izinwele zihambisana nephunga, umlotha, i-cube emnyama crispy, i-twist okungukuthi ibe yimpushana yezindwangu zoboya obuhlanzekile, futhi eduze nomlilo kuyavutha, kuvutha ngokushesha. , ilangabi eliphuzi, ukushiswa kwe-clamp, umlotha onokundiza kalula okumpunga, omhlophe futhi ushiye kunzima ukuchoboza isigaxa se-polyester/viscose.
Iphinde ishiye isigaxa esimnyama ngemva kokusha.
Kusukela kwezimbili kuya kwezimbili noma ngaphezulu kwezithako noma indwangu ehlanganisiwe ehlanganisiwe: uvolo/i-viscose, uvolo/i-polyester, uvolo/usilika, uvolo/i-viscose/i-spandex, njll., ayidingi nje kuphela ukubamba ngokuqinile izinhlobo ezahlukene ze-fiber morphology kanye nezakhiwo, kanye nendlela yokusebenzisa ukuhlonza i-fiber eminingi, kusukela ekubukeni futhi, ukushisa ukushisa kuya ekuhlolweni ngemva kokuhlolwa, kungafika esiphethweni ngokuphephile.
6.Uboya obuyi-mercerized
I-Mercerizing uvolo iyimpahla evamile yovolo ngemva kokwelashwa ngamakhemikhali nokwelashwa ngokomzimba, ukucekelwa phansi kwesikali se-fiber, futhi ngokusebenzisa i-ejenti yokuhlola amakhemikhali, yenza uboya bushelelezi, bucwebezele, bushwabane lapho buwashwa, bufanele izingubo zomshado.
Uboya be-Mercerizing ukwelashwa kwemikhiqizo yoboya kunqubo ye-mercerizing yokudaya uboya nokuqeda.
Uvolo udinga ukugcotshwa yi-Basolan DC noma uphathwe nge-protease ukuze ucekele phansi isikali esingaphezulu soboya futhi unciphise umehluko phakathi kwe-coefficient yokungqubuzana ngesikhathi sokuya phambili nokuhlehla koboya. Ngemuva kokwelashwa, ukucwebezela koboya kuyenyuka, okuvame ukwaziwa ngokuthi uboya obuhlanganisiwe.
Uvolo owenziwe nge-mercerized ungase ulukwe ngoboya obumsulwa noma uhlanganiswe.
Izici eziyinhloko yi-anti-shrinkage, umshini - ongawasheka, anti - pilling.
Ubuchwepheshe boboya be-Mercerized baqala phakathi nawo-1990, buwubuchwepheshe obusha bokudaya nokuqeda obuthuthukiswe ngesisekelo se-chlorination yendabuko kanye nobuchwepheshe bokuvimbela ukushwabana koboya.
Indwangu yoboya ephathwayo inomuzwa we-cashmere kanye ne-silky luster.
Ngenxa yalezi zici, imikhiqizo ye-wool mercerizing yasheshe yathandwa.
Kuze kube manje, uboya be-mercerized sebuthandwa kakhulu, isabelo semakethe sidlule inani loboya obujwayelekile.
Kunemiqondo eyahlukene yoboya be-mercerized e-China nakwamanye amazwe emhlabeni. E-China, uvolo okhishwe i-phosphorus kuthiwa yi-mercerized wool, kanti uboya bezimvu bamazwe ngamazwe bushiswa ngesitimu esishisayo, futhi bunwetshwe ngo-30% ~ 50%. Khona-ke, ngemva kokupholiswa ngamanzi abandayo nokulolongwa, uboya bezimvu obubude nobuncane bubizwa ngokuthi uboya obuhlanganisiwe.
7.Uboya
Uvolo ngokuvamile ubizwa ngokuthi indwangu ye-wool fiber.
I-Wool fiber iyi-protein molecules coalesced, ukubukeka kwesendlalelo esiyingqayizivele sesakhiwo esiqinile sezimpondo, simbozwe ngokuqinile, isakhiwo se-flake sincane kakhulu, inzuzo yayo iwukuvimbela ukungcola ku-fiber, ngakho-ke, izingubo zoboya azingcolile kalula.
Abahlanzi abomile bavame ukuhlangana nezinhlobonhlobo zezindwangu ezihlukene lapho bewasha, futhi izingubo zoboya nazo zivamile.
Isizathu sokuthi kungani uvolo ukhiqiza ukukhanya okukhanyayo yilezi:
(1) Ungqimba lwesikali esinezimpondo endaweni yomucu woboya lugugile kancane;
(2) Uthuli nokungcola kuhlikihla kancane futhi kunamathele emseleni, ukuze ingaphezulu lendwangu libe bushelelezi, okubangela ukuphindaphinda njalo kokukhanya, okuholela ekukhanyeni okukhanyayo.
Izindlela zokususa ukukhanya:
(1) Isinkwa singasongwa sibe ufulawa futhi sisakazwe ekukhanyeni, ngensimbi ibe yinsimbi;
(2) Ukukha i-Pickling: Gcoba isisombululo se-acetic acid nge-concentration ye-3-5% kanye nezinga lokushisa elingu-50℃ imizuzu engu-3-5, bese ugeza ngamanzi ahlanzekile.
Uviniga omhlophe ungasetshenziswa futhi.
(3) Geza ngebhulashi lapho ugeza.
I-fiber iyi-fibre yemvelo, ingumphumela wembewu yezitshalo, isiqu namaqabunga ane-fiber yamakhemikhali amaningi ayinayo ikhwalithi enhle, isakhi sofuzo esine-hydrophilic ngaphezulu ku-fiber kakotini, i-hygroscopicity enhle, egqoke ukumuncwa komjuluko, ukungena komoya, ukunethezeka, ne-hemp futhi kupholile. , ukuthambile, hhayi ukunamathela ezicini ezisetshenziswa kakhulu embonini yezingubo, wamukelekile ngumthengi.
Izinzuzo: ithambile futhi inwebeka esandleni, ithambile futhi icwebezelayo yemvelo, ukhululekile futhi muhle ukugqokwa, umuzwa wezinga eliphezulu, ukumuncwa umswakama omuhle, akulula ukushisa ukushisa, ukugcinwa okuhle kokushisa, ukumelana ne-crease, ikakhulukazi ngemva kokucubungula ingubo noku-ayina okungcono. ukubunjwa kanye nokuvikelwa komumo wengubo;
Qaphela: Izinga lokushisa lokuwasha akufanele libe phezulu kakhulu, ungahlikihli noma ugobe ukuze ugweme ukuchayeka elangeni.
Indawo yokucindezela: Uku-ayina okumanzi, uku-ayina okokusebenza komile ngakolunye uhlangothi.
Ukungalungi: i-alkali - ukumelana, ukushwabana, ukushwabana kalula.
8. Indwangu yoboya-i-polyester
Indwangu ye-wool-polyester (wool-polyester) : Indwangu eyenziwe ngoboya kanye nezintambo ezihlanganisiwe ze-polyester, uhlobo oluvame kakhulu lwendwangu ehlanganiswe ngovolo.
Indwangu eyenziwe ngoboya ne-polyester ehlanganisiwe.
Isilinganiso esivamile sokuhlanganisa i-wool-polyester yi-45∶55, engakwazi ukugcina inzuzo yoboya kuphela, kodwa futhi inikeze ukudlala okugcwele ukuze kuzuze i-polyester.
Cishe zonke izindwangu ezimahhadla nezimbi kakhulu zinenhlanganisela ehambisanayo yoboya-polyester.
Phakathi kwazo indwangu yoboya-i-polyester encane enezimbali ezimbi kakhulu ebizwa nangokuthi i-cool, eyaziwa ngokuthi uboya obupholile ngempela, ibonakalisa kakhulu izici zokuhlanganisa uboya ne-polyester kwenye yezindwangu.
Kukhona i-double-ply warp kanye ne-weft, i-double-ply warp, i-single-ply warp kanye ne-single-ply warp kanye ne-weft.
Ivamise ukuba ne-50 ~ 70 yesilisa esiphindwe kabili, izindwangu ezizacile ezinomucu ophindwe kabili we-100 ~ 120 wesilisa.
Isisindo sendwangu singaba ngu-170 ~ 190 g/m 2.
Uma kuqhathaniswa ne-wool tweed, i-wool-polyester encane i-tweed ilula futhi ilula ekuthunjweni, enokubuyiselwa okuhle kokushwabana, okuqinile nokungagugi, kulula ukuwasha, okushesha ukomisa, ukukhala okuqinile, okuzinzile ngobukhulu, kodwa hhayi okubushelelezi njengoboya.
Uma usebenzisa i-polyester ekhanyayo njengempahla eluhlaza, i-surface ye-silika luster.
Uma uboya bezilwane obukhethekile obufana noboya be-cashmere noma bekamela busetshenziswa ekuhlanganisweni kwempahla eluhlaza, buzozwakala bushelela futhi bunamathela.
Isilinganiso esivamile sokuhlanganiswa kwe-wool-polyester yi-45:55, engakwazi ukugcina izinzuzo zoboya kuphela, kodwa futhi inikeze ukudlala izinzuzo ze-polyester.
Izinzuzo: uvolo ohlanganiswe ne-polyester, ukukhanya nokukhanya kokuthungwa, ukusebenza kahle kokululama ukushwabana.
Ihlala isikhathi eside, kulula ukuyigeza futhi yome, izinzile ngosayizi, iqinile ku-tuck
Amaphuzu okugeza: cwilisa ngamanzi abandayo imizuzu eyi-15 kuqala, bese ugeza nge-detergent ejwayelekile yokwenziwa, geza izinga lokushisa loketshezi akufanele lidlule ama-degree angama-45, ikhola, indawo engcolile ye-cuff ingasebenzisa ibhulashi loboya obuthambile ukuxubha ngobumnene, ngemuva kokuhlanza ihlanzekile, ingasonta ngobumnene, Thenga indawo epholile enomoya ongenisa umoya, ungahlali yedwa, akumele yomiswe, funa ngenxa yokuthi isivuthiwe ibangele umbimbi.
Indwangu engu-9.T/R
Kungenye yezici zendwangu ye-T/R yokwenza ijazi lekhola elimile, ijazi le-lapel nokugqoka okungajwayelekile ngenani elikhulu le-plaid noma umugqa, i-flash noma indwangu ye-T/R ye-monochrome.
Indwangu ye-T/R iyindwangu ehlanganisiwe ye-polyester viscose.I-Polyester viscose ehlanganisiwe iwuhlobo lokuhlanganisa okuhambisanayo.I-polyester viscose hhayi nje ukotini, uvolo, nokuphakathi - ende.Indwangu yovolo eyaziwa ngokuthi "ibhasi elisheshayo".Lapho i-polyester ingekho ngaphansi kwe 50%, lolu hlobo lwendwangu ehlanganisiwe lungagcina i-polyester iqinile, imelana nokushwabana, usayizi uzinzile, eziwashayo futhi zigqoke izici eziqinile.Ukuxutshwa kwe-viscose fiber kuthuthukisa ukufinyeleleka komoya kwendwangu kanye nokumelana nomgodi oncibilikayo.I-pilling kanye ne-antistatic phenomena yendwangu yancishiswa.
Sebenzisa i-65/35 noma i-67/33 ye-polyester/viscid-blend ratio.I-polyester/viscose blend iyafana ne-polyester/viscose.Izici zalolu hlobo lwendwangu ehlanganisiwe zibushelelezi futhi zihlanzekile, imibala ekhanyayo, i-wool shape eqinile, isandla esihle. nokunwebeka, ukumuncwa umswakama omuhle;Kodwa unomphela akulungile.
Izinzuzo: ziqinile, azikwazi ukushwabana, usayizi ozinzile, ziyawasheka futhi ziyagqokeka.
Ingathuthukisa ukungena komoya kwendwangu, inciphise ukuphiliswa kanye ne-antistatic phenomenon.
Amaphoyinti okuwasha: Umshini wokuwasha ungasetshenziswa, ungakhuhli ngebhulashi, ukuze ugweme ukuphiliswa, ukomiswa kolunye uhlangothi.
10.High-density NC
High density NC Indwangu uhlobo lwendwangu exutshwe noma ehlanganiswe ne-poly-amide (inayiloni) nentambo kakotini.
Umkhiqizo uhlanganisa izinzuzo ze-nylon nentambo kakotini.
Ukugqokwa kwenayiloni kuklelisa eyokuqala phakathi kwemicu yemvelo nemicu yamakhemikhali. Ukumunca umswakama wenayiloni kungcono kunokwe-polyester, futhi ukugqoka kwayo ukunethezeka nokudaya izakhiwo zingcono kunezo ze-polyester. Ngakho-ke, ukumuncwa komswakama nokugqoka ukunethezeka kwentambo kakotini ngeke kuncishiswe lapho kuhlanganiswa noma kuhlanganiswe nentambo kakotini.
Inayiloni inokunwebeka okuhle kakhulu. Ngemuva kokuhlanganisa noma ukuhlanganisa ngentambo kakotini, ukuqina kwendwangu kuyathuthukiswa.
Ububi bendwangu ye-NC buyi: ngenxa ye-nylon ehilelekile ekuhlanganiseni noma ekuhlanganiseni, ukumelana nokushisa nokumelana nokukhanya kwendwangu kumpofu, qaphela ukugeza noku-ayina ohlelweni lokusebenzisa ukuhlangabezana nemibandela, ukuze ugweme ukulimala.
Izici zayo zesitayela ezivelele kakhulu: akulula ukugqoka, ithambile futhi ikhululekile, kulula ukuyihlanza.
Ungashi elangeni, ungaphambanisi.
Izindawo zokuwasha: Ungawomisi uhlanzekile, wome ebumnyameni.
Indlela yokulungisa: ungagqoki isizini, buyela emuva eqoqweni lesikhwama sepulasitiki esiyisicaba.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Mar-01-2021