USharmon Lebby ngumbhali kunye nesitayile sefashoni esizinzileyo ofunda kwaye anike ingxelo malunga nokuhlangana kokusingqongileyo, ifashoni, kunye noluntu lweBIPOC.
Uboya lilaphu leentsuku ezibandayo kunye nobusuku obubandayo. Eli laphu linxulumene nempahla yangaphandle. Yimpahla ethambileyo, ethambileyo, edla ngokwenziwa ngepolyester. Iminqwazi, iminqwazi, kunye nezikhafu zonke zenziwe ngezinto ezenziweyo ezibizwa ngokuba yipolar fleece.
Njengalo naliphi na ilaphu eliqhelekileyo, sifuna ukufunda ngakumbi malunga nokuba uboya begusha buthathwa njengozinzileyo kwaye buthelekiswa njani namanye amalaphu.
Uboya ekuqaleni badalwa endaweni yoboya. Ngowe-1981, inkampani yaseMelika iMalden Mills (ngoku eyiPolartec) yakhokela ekuphuhliseni izinto zepolyester ezibrashwayo. Ngentsebenziswano kunye nePatagonia, baya kuqhubeka nokuvelisa amalaphu angcono, alula kunoboya, kodwa aneempawu ezifana nemicu yezilwanyana.
Kwiminyaka elishumi kamva, kwavela enye intsebenziswano phakathi kwePolartec nePatagonia; ngeli xesha kugxilwe ekusebenziseni iibhotile zeplastiki ezisetyenzisiweyo ukwenza uboya. Ilaphu lokuqala liluhlaza, umbala weebhotile ezihlaziyiweyo. Namhlanje, iimveliso zithatha amanyathelo ongezelelweyo ukwenza iblitshi okanye ukudaya iifayibha zepolyester ezisetyenzisiweyo ngaphambi kokubeka i-polyester fibers kwimarike. Kukho ngoku uluhlu lwemibala ekhoyo kwizinto zoboya ezenziwe ngenkunkuma yasemva komthengi.
Nangona uboya buqhele ukwenziwa ngepolyester, ngokobuchule bunokwenziwa phantse ngalo naluphi na uhlobo losinga.
Ngokufana ne-velvet, into ephambili yoboya be-polar yilaphu loboya. Ukwenza umphezulu oguquguqukayo okanye ophakanyisiweyo, iMalden Mills isebenzisa iibhrashi zocingo zentsimbi yesilinda ukuze zaphule iilophu ezenziwe ngexesha lokuluka. Oku kwakhona kutyhala imicu phezulu. Nangona kunjalo, le ndlela inokubangela ukupilwa kwelaphu, okukhokelela kwiibhola ezincinci zefiber kumphezulu welaphu.
Ukuze ucombulule ingxaki yeepilisi, izinto eziphathekayo "zichetyiwe", okwenza indwangu ibe yinto elula kwaye inokugcina umgangatho wayo ixesha elide. Namhlanje, iteknoloji efanayo esisiseko isetyenziselwa ukwenza uboya.
Iichips zePolyethylene terephthalate zisisiqalo senkqubo yokuvelisa ifayibha. Inkunkuma iyanyibilika emva koko inyanzeliswe kwidisk enemingxuma ecolekileyo kakhulu ebizwa ngokuba yi spinneret.
Xa la maqhekeza atyhidiweyo ephuma emingxunyeni, aqalisa ukuphola aze abe lukhuni abe yimicu. Iintsinga ke ngoko zisontelwa kwiispools ezifudunyeziweyo zibe zizithungu ezikhulu ezibizwa ngokuba zii-tows, ezithi ke zolule ukwenza imicu emide neyomeleleyo. Emva kokwelula, kunikwa ukuthungwa okushwabeneyo ngomatshini wokutshiza, uze womiswe. Ngeli xesha, iifayili zinqunywe zibe ngamasentimitha, zifana neentambo zoboya.
Ezi fayibha zingenziwa ke zibe yimisonto. Iitowusi ezirhabaxa nezisikiweyo zigqithiswa kumatshini wokukhupha amakhadi ukwenza iintambo zosinga. Ezi ntambo ke zithanjiswa kumatshini wokusonta, owenza imisonto ecolekileyo kwaye ijikelezwe ibe ziibhobhoni. Emva kokudaya, sebenzisa umatshini wokunitha ukunitha imisonto kwilaphu. Ukusuka apho, imfumba iveliswa ngokugqithiswa kwelaphu kumatshini wokulala. Okokugqibela, umatshini wokucheba uya kunqumla umgangatho ophakanyisiweyo wenze uboya.
I-PET ehlaziyiweyo esetyenziselwa ukwenza uboya ivela kwiibhotile zeplastiki ezisetyenzisiweyo. Inkunkuma yasemva komthengi iyacocwa kwaye ibulawe iintsholongwane. Emva kokumisa, ibhotile iyachithwa ibe ngamaqhekeza amancinci eplastiki kwaye ihlanjwe kwakhona. Umbala okhanyayo ufakwe i-bleached, ibhotile eluhlaza ihlala iluhlaza, kwaye kamva idayiwe kumbala omnyama. Emva koko landela inkqubo efanayo ne-PET yokuqala: nyibilikisa amaqhekeza kwaye uwaguqule abe yimisonto.
Owona mahluko mkhulu phakathi koboya begusha kunye nomqhaphu kukuba enye yenziwe ngeentsinga zokwenziwa. Uboya begusha benzelwe ukuxelisa uboya begusha kwaye bugcine iimpawu zabo zokugquma i-hydrophobic kunye ne-thermal, ngelixa umqhaphu uyinto yendalo kwaye uguquguquka ngakumbi. Ayisiyonto kuphela, kodwa kunye nefiber enokuthi ilukwe okanye idityaniswe kulo naluphi na uhlobo lwe-textile. Imisonto yomqhaphu ingasetyenziselwa ukwenza uboya.
Nangona umqhaphu unobungozi kokusingqongileyo, kukholelwa ngokubanzi ukuba uzinzo kunoboya bemveli. Ngenxa yokuba ipolyester eyenza uboya yenziwe, kungathatha amashumi eminyaka ukubola, kwaye izinga lokubola komqhaphu likhawuleza kakhulu. Izinga elichanekileyo lokubola lixhomekeke kwiimeko zengubo kunye nokuba i-cotton eyi-100%.
Uboya obenziwe ngepolyester budla ngokuba lilaphu elinempembelelo ephezulu. Okokuqala, i-polyester yenziwe nge-petroleum, i-fuel fuels kunye nezibonelelo ezilinganiselwe. Njengoko sonke siyazi, i-polyester processing idla amandla kunye namanzi, kwaye iqulethe iikhemikhali ezininzi eziyingozi.
Inkqubo yokudaya amalaphu okwenziwa nayo inempembelelo kwimekobume. Le nkqubo ayisebenzisi kuphela amanzi amaninzi, kodwa iphinda ikhuphe amanzi angcolileyo aqukethe idayi engasetyenziswanga kunye ne-surfactants yamakhemikhali, eyingozi kwizinto eziphilayo zasemanzini.
Nangona ipolyester esetyenzisiweyo eboyeni ingonakali, iyabola. Nangona kunjalo, le nkqubo ishiya amaqhekeza amancinci eplastiki ebizwa ngokuba yi-microplastics. Oku akuyongxaki kuphela xa ilaphu liphela kwindawo yokulahla inkunkuma, kodwa naxa uhlamba iimpahla zoboya. Ukusetyenziswa kwabathengi, ngakumbi ukuhlamba iimpahla, kunempembelelo enkulu kwindalo ngexesha lomjikelo wobomi bempahla. Kukholelwa ukuba malunga ne-1,174 milligrams ye-microfibers ikhutshwa xa ibhatyi yokwenziwa ihlanjwa.
Impembelelo yoboya obusetyenzisiweyo incinci. Amandla asetyenziswa yipolyester esetyenzisiweyo acuthwe ngama-85%. Okwangoku, yi-5% kuphela ye-PET ephinda isetyenziswe. Ekubeni i-polyester iyi-fiber yokuqala esetyenziswa kwizinto ezilukiweyo, ukwandisa le pesenti kuya kuba nempembelelo enkulu ekunciphiseni ukusetyenziswa kwamandla kunye namanzi.
Njengezinto ezininzi, iibrendi zijonge iindlela zokunciphisa ifuthe labo lokusingqongileyo. Ngapha koko, i-Polartec ikhokela umkhwa ngenyathelo elitsha lokwenza ingqokelela yabo yelaphu i-100% iphinde isetyenziswe kwaye iboleke.
Uboya kwakhona benziwe ngezinto zendalo ezininzi, ezifana nomqhaphu kunye ne-hemp. Baqhubeka beneempawu ezifana noboya bezobugcisa kunye noboya, kodwa abayingozi kangako. Ngokuqwalaselwa ngakumbi kuqoqosho lwesetyhula, izinto ezisekwe kwisityalo kunye nezixhobo ezisetyenzisiweyo zisenokwenzeka ukuba zisetyenziswe ukwenza uboya.
Ixesha lokuposa: Oct-14-2021