Umyalezo odluliswa ngabathengi ukhwaza kwaye ucacile: kwihlabathi lasemva kobhubhani, intuthuzelo kunye nokusebenza zizinto abazifunayo. Abavelisi belaphu baluvile olu bizo kwaye basabela kwizinto ezahlukeneyo kunye neemveliso ukuhlangabezana nezi mfuno.
Kwiminyaka emininzi, amalaphu aphezulu aye ayisithako esibalulekileyo kwimidlalo kunye nempahla yangaphandle, kodwa ngoku zonke iimveliso ezivela kwiibhatyi zezemidlalo zamadoda ukuya kwiingubo zabasetyhini zisebenzisa amalaphu anoluhlu lweempawu zobugcisa: ukuhlamba umswakama, ukuvumba, ukupholisa, njl njl.
Enye yeenkokeli kule siphelo semarike nguSchoeller, inkampani yaseSwitzerland eqala ngo-1868. UStephen Kerns, umongameli weSchoeller USA, uthe abathengi banamhlanje bafuna iimpahla ezinokuhlangabezana neemfuno ezininzi.
“Bafuna ukusebenza kakuhle, kwaye bafuna ukwenza izinto ezahlukeneyo,” utshilo. "Iimpawu zangaphandle ziye zaya phaya kungekudala, kodwa ngoku sibona imfuno [yeempahla zemveli ezingakumbi]." Nangona u-Schoeller "ebe ejongene neempawu ezinqamlezayo ezifana ne-Bonobos, iTheory, i-Brooks Brothers kunye no-Ralph Lauren," Wathi lo "umdlalo wokuhamba" omtsha ovela kwimidlalo kunye nokuzonwabisa uzisa umdla ongakumbi kumalaphu aneempawu zobugcisa.
NgoJuni, uSchoeller uphehlelele iinguqulelo ezintsha ezininzi zeemveliso zakhe ngentwasahlobo ka-2023, kubandakanya iDryskin, elilaphu elineendlela ezimbini elenziwe ngepolyester ehlaziyiweyo kunye netekhnoloji ye-Ecorepel Bio. Inokuthutha ukufuma kwaye ixhathise i-abrasion. Ingasetyenziselwa iimpahla zezemidlalo kunye nendlela yokuphila.
Ngokutsho kwenkampani, inkampani ihlaziye iSchoeller Shape yayo, ilaphu elidityanisiweyo lomqhaphu elenziwe ngepolyamide esetyenzisiweyo esebenza ngokulinganayo kumabala egalufa nakwizitrato zedolophu. Inesiphumo seetoni ezimbini esikhumbuza idenim endala kunye ne-3XDry Bio technology. Ukongeza, kukho ilaphu le-Softight ripstop, eyenzelwe ibhulukhwe eyenziwe nge-polyamide esetyenzisiweyo, eyenziwe ngeteknoloji ye-Ecorepel Bio, enezinga eliphezulu lokuchasa kwamanzi kunye nokuchasana kwamabala, i-PFC-free, kwaye isekelwe kwizinto ezihlaziyiweyo ezinokuhlaziywa.
"Ungasebenzisa la malaphu kumazantsi, phezulu kunye neebhatyi," utshilo uKerns. "Usenokubhaqwa sisiphango sentlabathi, kwaye amasuntswana awayi kunamathela kuso."
UKerns uthe abantu abaninzi baye bafumana utshintsho lobungakanani ngenxa yotshintsho kwindlela yokuphila ebangelwa ngubhubhane, ke eli "lithuba elikhulu le-wardrobe" lempahla enokolulwa ngaphandle kokuncama ubuhle.
U-Alexa Raab, intloko ye-Sorona ye-brand yehlabathi kunye nonxibelelwano, uvumile ukuba i-Sorona yi-bio-based-high-performance polymer evela eDuPont, eyenziwe kwi-37% yezithako zezityalo ezivuselelekayo. Ilaphu elenziwe nge-Sorona line-elasticity ehlala ixesha elide kwaye lithatha indawo ye-spandex. Zixutywe nomqhaphu, uboya, isilika kunye nezinye iintsinga. Bakwanayo nokuxhathisa imibimbi kunye neempawu zokubuyisela imilo, ezinokuthi zinciphise ibhegi kunye neepilisi, ezivumela abathengi ukuba bagcine iimpahla zabo ixesha elide.
Oku kukwabonisa ukufuna kwenkampani uzinzo. Amalaphu adityanisiweyo eSorona afumana isatifikethi ngenkqubo yesiqinisekiso seCommon Thread yenkampani, eyasungulwa kunyaka ophelileyo ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuba amaqabane abo efektri ahlangabezana neyona ndlela iphambili yokusebenza kwamalaphu abo: ukuqina okuhlala ixesha elide, ukubuyiswa kwemilo, ukhathalelo olulula, ukuthamba kunye nokuphefumla. Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, malunga neefektri ezingama-350 eziqinisekisiweyo.
"Abavelisi beFiber banokusebenzisa iipolymers zeSorona ukwenza izinto ezininzi ezizodwa ezenza ukuba iimpahla ezahlukeneyo zibonise iipropathi ezahlukeneyo, ukusuka kumalaphu angaphandle amelana nemibimbi ukuya kwiimveliso zokugquma ezikhaphukhaphu neziphefumlayo, ukolula okusisigxina kunye nokubuyisela, kunye noboya obungengobunyani beSorona," URenee Henze, uMlawuli weNtengiso yeHlabathi yeDuPont Biomaterials.
“Siyabona ukuba abantu bafuna iimpahla ezitofotofo ngakumbi, kodwa bafuna ukulungelelana neenkampani ezivelisa amalaphu ngokuziphatha nangenkathalo,” wongeze watsho uRaab. I-Sorona yenze inkqubela phambili kwintsimi yeemveliso zendlu kwaye isetyenziswe kwi-quilts. NgoFebruwari, inkampani ibambisene neThindown, yokuqala kunye ne-100% kuphela ilaphu phantsi, isebenzisa izinto ezixubileyo ukubonelela ngokufudumala, ukukhanya kunye nokuphefumla ngokusekelwe ekuthambeni kwe-Sorona, i-drape kunye ne-elasticity. Ngo-Agasti, iPuma yasungula iFuture Z 1.2, isihlangu sokuqala sebhola ekhatywayo esingenantambo kunye nomsonto weSorona phezulu.
KuRaab, isibhakabhaka asinamda ngokwemigaqo yokusetyenziswa kwemveliso. “Ngethemba lokuba singaqhubeka nokubona ukusetyenziswa kweSorona kwimpahla yezemidlalo, iisuti, iimpahla zokuqubha kunye nezinye iimveliso,” utshilo.
Umongameli wePolartec uSteve Layton naye usanda kuba nomdla ngakumbi kwi-Milliken & Co. iijezi ngo-1981 njengenye indlela yoboya. Ngaphambili, sasihlelwa kwimarike yangaphandle, kodwa into esiyiqulunqe encotsheni yentaba ngoku isetyenziswa ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo.
Ucaphule uDudley Stephens njengomzekelo, uphawu olubalulekileyo lobufazi olugxile kumalaphu ahlaziyiweyo. I-Polartec ikwasebenzisana neemveliso zefashoni ezinje ngeMoncler, iStone Island, iReigning Champ, kunye neVeilance.
U-Layton uthe kwezi mpawu, i-aesthetics idlala indima ebalulekileyo kuba ijonge ukungabi nasisindo, i-elastic, i-wicking-wicking kunye nokufudumala okuthambileyo kwiimveliso zabo zempahla yokuphila. Enye yezona zidumileyo yiPower Air, elilaphu elinithiweyo elinokusonga umoya ukuze uhlale ushushu kwaye unciphise ukuchithwa kwe-microfiber. Wathi eli laphu “liye laduma.” Nangona iPowerAir yaqala yabonelela ngomphezulu osicaba onobume beqam ngaphakathi, ezinye iibrendi zendlela yokuphila zinethemba lokusebenzisa iqamza elingaphandle njengophawu loyilo. “Ke kwisizukulwana sethu esilandelayo, siza kusebenzisa iimilo zejiyometri ezahlukeneyo ukuyakha,” utshilo.
Uzinzo ikwalinyathelo eliqhubekayo lePolartec. NgoJulayi, inkampani yatsho ukuba ikhuphe i-PFAS (i-perfluoroalkyl kunye ne-polyfluoroalkyl substances) kwi-DWR (i-durable water repellent) unyango loluhlu lwayo oluphezulu lwelaphu. I-PFAS yikhemikhali eyenziwe ngumntu engaboli, inokuhlala kwaye ibangele ukwenzakala kokusingqongileyo kunye nomzimba womntu.
"Kwixesha elizayo, siya kutyala amandla amaninzi ukugcina ukusebenza kakuhle ngelixa sicinga ngokutsha iifiber esizisebenzisayo ukuze sizenze zisekelwe kwi-bio," utshilo uLeiden. "Ukufikelela kunyango olungeyo-PFAS kumgca wemveliso linyathelo elibalulekileyo ekuzibopheleleni kwethu ekwenzeni amalaphu asebenza ngokuzinzileyo."
I-Akhawunti ye-Akhawunti ye-Unifi ye-Global Key Key u-Chad Bolick uthe inkampani ye-Repreve recycled performance polyester fiber ihlangabezana neemfuno zokuthuthuzela, ukusebenza kunye nokuzinza, kwaye inokusetyenziswa kwiimveliso ezahlukeneyo ukusuka kwimpahla kunye nezihlangu ukuya kwimveliso yasekhaya. Uthe ikwayinto "ethathela indawo ngokuthe ngqo ipolyester enyulu enyulu."
“Iimveliso ezenziwe ngeRepreve zinomgangatho ofanayo kunye neempawu zokusebenza njengemveliso eyenziwe ngepolyester engaphinda isetyenziswe-zithambile ngokulinganayo kwaye zikhululekile, kwaye iimpawu ezifanayo zingongezwa, njengokuzolula, ukulawula ukufuma, ukulawulwa kobushushu, ukuthintela amanzi, kunye nokunye. ,” utshilo uBolik. Ukongeza, inciphise ukusetyenziswa kwamandla ngama-45%, ukusetyenziswa kwamanzi phantse ngama-20%, kunye nokukhutshwa kwegesi yobushushu ngaphezu kwe-30%.
I-Unifi ikwanazo nezinye iimveliso ezinikezelwe kwimarike yokusebenza, kubandakanya iChillSense, eyitekhnoloji entsha evumela ilaphu ukuba lidlulise ubushushu obuvela emzimbeni ngokukhawuleza xa lifakwe kwimicu, lidala imvakalelo yokuphola. Enye yiTruTemp365, esebenza ngeentsuku ezifudumeleyo ukususa ukufuma emzimbeni kwaye ibonelele ngokugquma ngeentsuku ezibandayo.
"Abathengi bayaqhubeka befuna ukuba iimveliso abazithengayo zineempawu zokusebenza ezininzi ngelixa begcina induduzo," watsho. Kodwa bakwafuna uzinzo ngelixa bephucula ukusebenza. Abathengi bayinxalenye yehlabathi eliqhagamshelene kakhulu. Baya bekuqonda ngakumbi ukujikeleza okukhulu kweplastiki kwiilwandle zethu, kwaye bayaqonda ukuba ubutyebi bethu bendalo buyancipha, ngoko ke, Bakuqonda ngakumbi ukubaluleka kokukhusela okusingqongileyo kwizizukulwana ezizayo. Abathengi bethu bayaqonda ukuba abathengi bafuna ukuba yinxalenye yesi sisombululo. ”
Kodwa ayizizo iintsinga ezenziweyo ezihlala zivela ukuze zihlangabezane nemfuno ekhulayo yabathengi kunye nozinzo. U-Stuart McCullough, umlawuli olawulayo weNkampani ye-Woolmark, ukhomba "iinzuzo zangaphakathi" zoboya be-Merino, obunika induduzo kunye nokusebenza.
“Abathengi namhlanje bafuna iibrendi ngentembeko nokuzinikela kokusingqongileyo. Uboya be-Merino ayisiyonto nje yobugcisa bobunewunewu bomyili wefashoni, kodwa ikwasisisombululo esitsha sendalo sefashoni yemihla ngemihla kunye nempahla yezemidlalo. Ukusukela oko kwaqhambuka i-COVID-19, imfuno yabathengi yempahla yasekhaya kunye nempahla yabahambi iyaqhubeka nokukhula, ”utshilo uMcCullough.
Wongeze ukuba ekuqaleni kobhubhane, iimpahla zasekhaya zoboya be-merino ziye zathandwa ngakumbi njengoko abantu besebenza ekhaya. Ngoku baphumile kwakhona, ukunxitywa kwabakhweli boboya, ukubagcina kude nezithuthi zikawonke-wonke, ukuhamba, ukubaleka okanye ukukhwela ibhayisekile ukuya emsebenzini, nako kubonakalise ukuthandwa kakhulu.
Uthe ukuze bathathe ithuba loku, iqela lobuchwephesha le-Woolmark lisebenzisana neempawu eziphambili kwizihlangu kunye neendawo zempahla ukwandisa ukusetyenziswa kweentsinga kwizihlangu zokusebenza, ezifana nezihlangu zokubaleka zobugcisa ezinithiweyo ze-APL. Inkampani yokuyila i-Knitwear iStudio Eva x Carola isandula ukuphehlelela uthotho lweeprototypes zokunxitywa kwebhayisekile kwabasetyhini, kusetyenziswa ubuchwepheshe, uboya bemerino obungenamthungo, kusetyenziswa iSüdwolle Group umsonto woboya wemerino owenziwe koomatshini bokunitha beSantoni.
Ejonge phambili, uMcCullough uthe ukholelwa ukuba imfuno yeenkqubo ezizinzileyo iya kuba yeyona nto iqhubayo kwixesha elizayo.
“Amashishini amalaphu kunye nefashoni aphantsi koxinzelelo lokutshintshela kwiinkqubo ezizinzileyo,” utshilo. “Olu xinzelelo lufuna iibrendi kunye nabavelisi ukuba baphinde baqwalasele izicwangciso zabo zemathiriyeli kwaye bakhethe iintsinga ezinempembelelo encinci yokusingqongileyo. Uboya baseOstreliya bujikeleza ngokwendalo kwaye bubonelela ngesisombululo sophuhliso oluzinzileyo lwelaphu.”
Ixesha lokuposa: Oct-21-2021