Kubomi bemihla ngemihla, sihlala sisiva ukuba le yi-plain weave, le yi-twill weave, le yi-satin weave, le yi-jacquard weave njalo njalo. Kodwa eneneni, abantu abaninzi bayalahleka emva kokuyiphulaphula. Yintoni enhle ngayo? Namhlanje, makhe sithethe ngeempawu kunye nokuchongwa kwala malaphu mathathu.
1.I-Plain weave, i-twill weave, kunye ne-satin malunga nesakhiwo selaphu
Into ebizwa ngokuba yi-plain weave, i-twill weave kunye ne-satin weave (i-satin) ibhekisela kwisakhiwo selaphu. Ngokwesakhiwo sodwa, ezi zintathu azilungile okanye azibi, kodwa nganye ineempawu zayo ngenxa yomahluko kwisakhiwo.
(1)Ilaphu elingenanto
Ligama eliqhelekileyo lelaphu lomqhaphu elilukiweyo elilula lezinto ezahlukeneyo. Oku kubandakanya i-weave ecacileyo kunye ne-plain weave eguquguqukayo, amalaphu ahlukeneyo e-cotton alula anemilinganiselo eyahlukeneyo kunye nezimbo. Ezinje: ilaphu elirhabaxa, ilaphu elilula eliphakathi, ilaphu elicikizekileyo, i-gauze poplin, i-half-thread poplin, i-poplin yomgca ogcweleyo, i-hemp yarn kunye ne-brashied plain cloth, njl. Kukho iindidi ezingama-65 zizonke.
Imisonto yokuluka neyoluka idityaniswa yonke eminye imisonto. Ubume belaphu buqinile, burhabaxa, kwaye umphezulu ugudile. Ngokuqhelekileyo, amalaphu e-embroidery aphezulu ayenziwe ngamalaphu alula.
Ilaphu le-Plain weave linamanqaku amaninzi okuthunga, ukuthungwa okuqinileyo, umphezulu ogudileyo, imbonakalo efanayo ngaphambili nangasemva, ikhaphukhaphu kwaye ibhityile, kunye nokungena komoya okungcono. Ubume be-weave ethafeni bumisela ubuninzi bayo obuphantsi. Ngokuqhelekileyo, ixabiso lelaphu elilula liphantsi. Kodwa kukho amalaphu ambalwa alula abiza kakhulu, njengamalaphu ahonjisiweyo aphezulu.
(2)Ilaphu leTwill
Ligama eliqhelekileyo lamalaphu e-cotton aneenkcukacha ezahlukeneyo ze-twill weave, kubandakanya utshintsho lwe-twill weave kunye ne-twill weave, kunye namalaphu awohlukeneyo e-cotton twill anengcaciso kunye nezimbo ezahlukeneyo. Ezinjena: umsonto osontiweyo, umsonto we-serge, umsonto wesiqingatha, umsonto we-gabardine, i-gabardine yomgca wesiqingatha, umsonto wekhaki, ikhaki enesiqingatha, ikhaki enemigca egcweleyo, ibrashi yebrashi, njl. njl., zizonke iindidi ezingama-44.
Kwilaphu le-twill, i-warp kunye ne-weft zithungelana ubuncinane yonke imisonto emibini, oko kukuthi, 2/1 okanye 3/1. Ukongeza amanqaku e-warp kunye ne-weft interweaving ukutshintsha isakhiwo selaphu ngokudibeneyo kubhekiselwa kuyo njengelaphu le-twill. Uphawu lolu hlobo lwelaphu kukuba lithe shinyi kwaye linobume obunamandla obuthathu. Inani lamanani ngama-40, ama-60, njl.
(3)Ilaphu leSatin
Ligama eliqhelekileyo kwiinkcukacha ezahlukeneyo ze-satin weave cotton cloth. Oku kubandakanya imiluko eyahlukeneyo ye-satin kunye ne-satin ye-satin, iinkcukacha ezahlukeneyo kunye nezitayile zokuluka kwe-satin.
I-warp kunye ne-weft zithungelana ubuncinane rhoqo kwimisonto emithathu. Phakathi kwamalaphu, ukuxinana kowona mgangatho uphezulu kwaye ungqingqwa, kwaye umphezulu welaphu ugudileyo, uthambile ngakumbi, kwaye ugcwele ukukhazimla, kodwa ixabiso lemveliso liphezulu, ngoko ke ixabiso liya kuba likhulu.
Inkqubo yokuluka i-satin inzima ngokwentelekiso, kwaye umsonto omnye kuphela wokuluka kunye noweft ogubungela umphezulu ngendlela yobude obudadayo. I-warp satin egquma umphezulu ibizwa ngokuba yi-warp satin; I-weft float egquma umphezulu ibizwa ngokuba yi-weft satin. Ubude obude obudadayo benza ukuba umphezulu welaphu ube nokukhazimla okungcono kwaye kulula ukubonakalisa ukukhanya. Ngoko ke, ukuba ujonga ngokusondeleyo kwi-cotton satin ilaphu, uya kuziva utyhafile.
Ukuba umsonto wefilament kunye nokucwebezela okungcono usetyenziswa njengomsonto omde odadayo, ukubengezela kwelaphu kunye nokubonakala kokukhanya kuya kubonakala ngakumbi. Ngokomzekelo, i-silika ye-jacquard ilaphu inomphumo oqaqambileyo we-silky. Imisonto emide edadayo kwi-satin weave ithanda ukuqhekeka, ukuphaphatheka okanye ukucholwa imicu. Ngoko ke, amandla alolu hlobo lwelaphu aphantsi kuneendwangu ezicacileyo kunye ne-twill. Ilaphu elinamanani omsonto afanayo linoxinaniso lwesatin oluphezulu kwaye lingqindilili, kwaye ixabiso liphezulu. I-Plain weave, i-twill weave, kunye ne-satin zezona ndlela zintathu zisisiseko zokuluka imisonto yokuluka kunye ne-weft. Akukho mahluko athile phakathi kokulungileyo nokubi, kodwa ngokwemigaqo yobugcisa, i-satin ngokuqinisekileyo iyona nto igqwesileyo yeempahla ezicocekileyo zekotoni, kwaye i-twill yamkelwe ngakumbi kwiintsapho ezininzi.
Yayidumile eYurophu kwiinkulungwane ezininzi ezadlulayo, kwaye impahla yelaphu yejacquard iye yayinto eqhelekileyo kusapho lwasebukhosini kunye nezikhulu ukuba zibonise isidima kunye nobuhle. Namhlanje, iipateni ezihloniphekileyo kunye neendwangu ezintle ziye zaba ngumkhwa weempahla zasekhaya eziphezulu. Ilaphu lelaphu lejacquard litshintsha i-warp kunye ne-weft weave ngexesha lokuluka ukwenza ipateni, ukubalwa komsonto kulungile, kwaye iimfuno zemathiriyeli ekrwada ziphezulu kakhulu. Ilaphu le-jacquard elijikayo kunye nele-weft liyalukwa kwaye liyaguquguquka ukwenza iipateni ezahlukeneyo. Ubume buthambile, bubuthathaka kwaye bugudileyo, bugudileyo obuhle, idrape kunye nokungena komoya, kunye nokukhawuleza kombala okuphezulu.
Ixesha lokuposa: Dec-09-2022