Kweli hlobo nasekwindla, ngaphambi kokuba abafazi babuyele eofisini, babonakala bethengisa iimpahla kwaye baphume baye kuhlalisana kwakhona. Iingubo ezinqabileyo, ezintle, ii-feminine top and sweaters, i-jeans evuthayo kunye ne-jeans eqondileyo, kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane ziye zathengisa kakuhle kwiivenkile ezithengisayo.
Nangona iinkampani ezininzi zisoloko zixelela abasebenzi ukuba kufuneka baphinde babuye, abathengisi bathi ukuthenga iimpahla zokusebenza asiyonto iphambili kumthengi.
Endaweni yoko, baye babona ukwanda kokuthengwa kweempahla abaza kuzinxiba ngokukhawuleza ukuya kumatheko, kwimibhiyozo, kwizindlu zokosa inyama, kwiikhefi ezingaphandle, isidlo sangokuhlwa nabahlobo, nakwiiholide. Ushicilelo oluqaqambileyo kunye nemibala ibalulekile ekuphuculeni isimo sengqondo sabathengi.
Nangona kunjalo, ii-wardrobes zabo zomsebenzi ziya kuhlaziywa kungekudala, kwaye abathengisi baye benza ezinye iingqikelelo malunga nokubonakala kweefom yeofisi entsha ekwindla.
I-WWD yenza udliwano-ndlebe nabathengisi abakhulu ukuba bafunde malunga neentengiso kwiindawo zangoku kunye neembono zabo malunga nendlela entsha yokunxiba emva kwehlabathi.
“Ngokuphathelele kwishishini lethu, asizange simbone ethenga. Wagxila kwi-wardrobe yakhe ngqo, i-wardrobe yakhe yasehlotyeni. Asikayiboni imfuno yeempahla zemveli ezikhulayo,” umrhwebi oyintloko we-Intermix u-Divya Mathur uthe le nkampani yathengiswa yi-Gap Inc. kwinkampani yabucala i-Altamont Capital Partners kule nyanga.
Ucacisile ukuba ukusukela ngoMatshi ka-2020 ubhubhane, abathengi abakhange bathenge nto ngentwasahlobo edlulileyo. “Ngokusisiseko akakayihlazisi ikhabethe yakhe yexesha lonyaka phantse iminyaka emibini. [Ngoku] ugxile kwi-100% entwasahlobo, ”utshilo ugxile ekushiyeni iqamza lakhe, ebuyela emhlabeni kwaye efuna iimpahla, utshilo uMathur.
“Ukhangela ilokhwe eqhelekileyo yasehlotyeni. Ingubo ye-poplin elula anokuyigqoka kunye neeteki. Ukhangela nempahla yeholide,” utshilo. UMathur wachaza ukuba iibrendi ezinje ngoStaud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai kunye noZimmermann zezinye zeempawu eziphambili ezithengiswayo ngoku.
“Le asiyonto afuna ukuyithenga ngoku. Wathi, 'Andonwabanga ngokuthenga into esele ndinayo,'” watsho. UMathur uthe ukubhitya kuhlala kubalulekile kwi-Intermix. “Ngokuphathelele kwinto ehamba phambili ngoku, ngokwenene ujonge elona lifanelekileyo. Kithina, le bhulukhwe ye-jean ephezulu ehamba ngokuthe tye emilenzeni, kunye ne-90s ye-denim ekhululekile kancinane. SiseRe/done Brands ezifana neAGoldE kunye neAGoldE ziqhuba kakuhle. I-ADoldE's cross-front denim ibisoloko ingumthengisi ongakholelekiyo ngenxa yeenkcukacha zayo ezintsha ezinomdla. Iijini ezibhityileyo ezenziwe ngokutsha/ezigqityiweyo ziyavutha. Ukongeza, ukuhlamba kwe-Moussy Vintage Umphumo ulungile kakhulu, kwaye uneendlela ezinomdla zokubhukuqa, "watsho.
Iifutshane zolunye udidi oludumileyo. I-Intermix iqale ukuthengisa iibhulukhwe zedenim ngoFebruwari kwaye ithengise amakhulukhulu wazo. “Sidla ngokubona iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zedenim kummandla osemazantsi. Siqale ukubona oku kuphinda-phinda phakathi kuMatshi, kodwa kuqale ngoFebruwari, ”utshilo uMather. Uthe yonke le nto yenzelwe ukulingana okungcono kwaye ukuthunga "kushushu kakhulu".
Kodwa inguqulelo yabo ekhululekileyo inde kancinane. Ivakala iphukile kwaye isikiwe. Nabo bacocekile, bade, kwaye isinqe sifana nengxowa yephepha,” utshilo.
Ngokuphathelele kwiiwadi zabo zokusebenza, uthe abathengi bakhe bakude kakhulu okanye baxubene ehlotyeni. "Baceba ukuqalisa kwakhona ubomi ngokupheleleyo ngaphambi kokuba ubhubhane ekwindla." Wabona intshukumo eninzi kwiimpahla ezinithiweyo kunye neehempe ezilukiweyo.
"Iyunifomu yakhe yangoku yijean entle kunye nehempe entle okanye ijezi entle." Ezinye zezinto eziphambili abazithengisayo zezabasetyhini ngu-Ulla Johnson kunye noSea New York. “Ezi mpawu ziphezulu eziphothiweyo ezilukiweyo, nokuba ziprintiwe okanye zikrwetshi, utshilo.
Xa enxibe ijean, abathengi bakhe bakhetha iindlela zokuvasa ezinomdla kunye nezitayile ezifanelekileyo, kunokuba bathi "Ndifuna ibhulukhwe emhlophe." Inguqulo yakhe ye-denim ekhethiweyo yibhulukhwe ephezulu yesinqe esithe tye.
UMathur uthe usathengisa inoveli kunye neeteki ezisefashonini. “Ngenene sibona ukukhula okumandla kwishishini leembadada,” utshilo.
“Ishishini lethu likhulu. Le yimpendulo eyakhayo ku-2019. Siza kuqalisa ukuphuhlisa ishishini lethu kwakhona. Sibonelela ngeshishini elingcono lamaxabiso agcweleyo kunango-2019,” utshilo.
Wabona neentengiso ezishushu zeempahla zomsitho. Abathengi babo abajongi iingubo zebhola. Uza kuzimasa imitshato, amatheko omhla wokuzalwa, amatheko obudala kunye nothweso-zidanga. Ukhangela iimveliso ezinobugocigoci ngakumbi kunempahla eqhelekileyo ukuze abe lundwendwe emtshatweni. I-Intermix yabona imfuneko kaZimmermann. “Siyazingca ngayo yonke into esiyifumene kolo phawu,” utshilo uMather.
“Abantu banemisebenzi kweli hlobo, kodwa abanampahla yokunxiba. Izinga lokuchacha likhawuleza kunokuba besilindele,” utshilo. Xa i-Intermix ithengwe ngeli xesha ngoSeptemba, bacinga ukuba kuya kuthatha ixesha elide ukubuya. Yaqala ukubuya ngoMatshi nangoAprili. “Besinoloyiko oluncinci apho, kodwa siye sakwazi ukuleqa imveliso,” utshilo.
Ngokubanzi, i-akhawunti yokugqoka yosuku oluphezulu i-50% yeshishini layo. “Ishishini lethu lenyani likwi-5% ukuya kwi-8% yeshishini lethu,” utshilo.
Wongeze ukuba kubasetyhini abasekhefini, baya kuthenga i-LoveShackFancy ka-Agua Bendita kunye ne-Agua, le yokugqibela ibe yimpahla yeholide yokwenyani.
URoopal Patel, usekela mongameli ophezulu kunye nomlawuli wefashoni kwi-Saks Fifth Avenue, uthe: “Ngoku, abafazi ngokuqinisekileyo baya kuthenga. Abasetyhini abanxibe ngokuthe ngqo ukuba babuyele eofisini, kodwa ubomi babo. Baya ezivenkileni ukuya kuthenga iimpahla kwiindawo zokutyela, okanye batye ibrunch okanye iSidlo sasemini, okanye bahlale kwicafe engaphandle kwisidlo sangokuhlwa. ” Wathi bathenga “iilokhwe ezintle, ezikhululekileyo, ezikhululekileyo, ezidlamkileyo nezinemibalabala ezinokubaleka ziphucule isimo sabo sengqondo.” Iimpawu ezidumileyo kwibala langoku zibandakanya uZimmermann kunye noTove. , UJonathan Simkhai kunye ne-ALC.
Ngokuphathelele i-jeans, uPatel wayesoloko ekholelwa ukuba i-jeans e-skinny ifana ne-T-shirt emhlophe. "Ukuba kukho nantoni na, uzakhela i-wardrobe yedenim. Ujonge ezinqeni eziphakamileyo, iintsimbi ze-70s zentsimbi, imilenze eqondileyo, ukuhlamba okuhlukeneyo, ukusika kwesoka. Nokuba yi-denim emhlophe okanye i-denim emnyama, okanye idolo Ukukrazula imingxunya, kunye neebhatyi ezihambelanayo kunye nendibaniselwano yejini kunye nezinye iimpahla ezihambelanayo,” utshilo.
Ucinga ukuba idenim iye yaba yinxalenye yokutya kwakhe okusisiseko, akukhathaliseki nokuba uyaphuma ebusuku okanye uyafowuna kwezi ntsuku. Ngexesha le-COVID-19, abafazi banxiba idenim, iijezi ezintle kunye nezihlangu ezipolishiwe.
“Ndicinga ukuba abantu basetyhini baya kuhlonipha izinto zedenim, kodwa eneneni ndicinga ukuba abasetyhini bazakusebenzisa eli thuba ukunxiba kakuhle. Ukuba banxiba ijean yonke imihla, akukho mntu ufuna ukunxiba ijean. Iofisi eneneni isinika ithuba lokunxiba ezona mpahla zintle zethu, ezona zihlangu zethu ziphakamileyo nezizihlangu esizithandayo kwaye sinxibe kakuhle,” utshilo uPatel.
Uthe njengoko imozulu itshintsha, abathengi abafuni kunxiba iibhatyi. “Ufuna ukubonakala emhle, ufuna ukonwaba. Sithengisa imibala eyonwabileyo, sithengisa izihlangu ezikhazimlayo. Sithengisa amagumbi anomdla,” utshilo. “Abafazi abathanda ifashoni bayisebenzisa njengemibhiyozo yokuvakalisa isimbo sabo sobuqu. Ngokwenene kukuziva wonwabile,” utshilo.
Umalathisi olungele ukunxiba wabaseTyhini eBloomingdale uArielle Siboni uthe: “Ngoku, sibona abathengi besabela ngakumbi'kukuthenga ngoku, nxiba iimpahla zangoku',” kubandakanywa impahla yasehlotyeni neyeholide. “Kuthi, oku kuthetha iziketi ezininzi ezilula ezinde, iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zedenim kunye neelokhwe zepoplin. Ukuqubha kunye nokuzifihla kunamandla ngokwenene kuthi. "
"Ngokumalunga neelokhwe, izitayela ezininzi ze-bohemian, i-crochet kunye ne-poplin, kunye ne-midi eprintiweyo zisebenza kakuhle kuthi," watsho. Iilokhwe zeALC, Bash, Maje kunye neSandro zithengiswa kakhulu. Uthe lo mthengi ebesoloko emkhumbula kuba ebenxiba ibhulukhwe eninzi nempahla etofotofo xa esekhaya. “Ngoku unesizathu sokuthenga,” wongeze watsho.
Olunye udidi olunamandla lufutshane. “Iibhulukhwe zedenim zigqwesile, ngakumbi kwa-AGoldE,” utshilo. Uthe: “Abantu bafuna ukuhlala bengenzi nto, kwaye abantu abaninzi basasebenza ekhaya naseZoom. Usenokungaboni ukuba zithini na ii-bottoms.” Uthe zonke iintlobo zeebhulukhwe ezimfutshane ziyathengiswa; ezinye zineethungo ezinde zangaphakathi, Ezinye zimfutshane.
Ngokuphathelele iimpahla ezibuyela eofisini, uSiboni uthe wabona inani leebhatyi zesuti “lisanda ngokuqinisekileyo, nto leyo enika umdla kakhulu.” Uthe abantu baqala ukubuyela eofisini, kodwa ulindele ukuvuthwa ngokupheleleyo ekwindla. Iimveliso zasekwindla zaseBloomingdale ziya kufika ekuqaleni kuka-Agasti.
Iijean ze-Skinny zisathengiswa, nto leyo iyinxalenye enkulu yeshishini labo. Wabona i-denim ijika ibe yibhulukhwe yomlenze othe tye, nto leyo eyaqala ukwenzeka ngaphambi kowama-2020. Iijini zikaMama kunye nezitayile ezininzi zeretro ziyathengiswa. “I-TikTok yomeleza olu tshintsho kwisitayile esixekileyo,” utshilo. Waqaphela ukuba ijini yeRag & Bone's Miramar yayiprintwe kwaye ikhangeleka ngathi yibhulukhwe yezemidlalo.
Iimpawu zeDenim eziqhube kakuhle ziquka uMama, i-AGoldE kunye ne-AG. U-Paige Mayslie uye wathengisa ibhulukhwe yokugijima ngemibala eyahlukeneyo.
Kwindawo ephezulu, ngenxa yokuba i-bottom iyinto eqhelekileyo, i-T-shirts ihlale yomelele. Ukongeza, iihempe ze-bohemian ezikhululekileyo, iihempe zeprairie, kunye neehempe ezineleyisi ehonjisiweyo kunye namehlo nazo zithandwa kakhulu.
USiboni uthe bakwathengisa iimpahla zangokuhlwa ezininzi ezinomdla neziqaqambileyo, iilokhwe ezimhlophe zabatshakazi kunye nezinxibo zangokuhlwa ezintle zeprom. Kwimitshato yasehlotyeni, ezinye iingubo ezivela ku-Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua kunye noNookie zifanelekile kakhulu kwiindwendwe. Uthe ngokuqinisekileyo i-LoveShackFancy inxibe iimpahla ezinzima, "iyamangalisa kakhulu." Kwakhona baneengubo ezininzi zeeholide ze-bohemian kunye neengubo ezinokugqithwa kwi-bridal shower.
USiboni ubalule ukuba ishishini lokubhalisa umthengisi linamandla kakhulu, nto leyo ebonisa ukuba isibini sichaza ngokutsha imihla yomtshato kwaye kukho imfuno yempahla yeendwendwe kunye nomtshakazi.
UYumi Shin, usomashishini oyintloko waseBergdorf Goodman, uthe kulo nyaka uphelileyo, abathengi babo bebebhetyebhetye, bethenga iimveliso ezikhethekileyo eziphuma kwiifowuni zeZoom kunye ne-splurge yobuqu.
“Njengoko sibuyela kwimeko yesiqhelo, siziva sinethemba. Ukuthenga ngokuqinisekileyo lulonwabo olutsha. Akunjalo kuphela ukubuyela eofisini, kodwa kunye nokudityaniswa kwexesha elide kunye nosapho kunye nabahlobo abacinga ngezicwangciso zokuhamba. Kumele ukuba nethemba,” utshilo uShen.
Kungekudala, baye babona umdla kwii-silhouettes zothando, kubandakanywa nemikhono epheleleyo okanye iinkcukacha ze-ruffle. Uthe u-Ulla Johnson uqhube kakuhle. “Uluphawu oluhle kwaye uthetha nabathengi abaninzi abahlukeneyo,” utshilo uShin, esongeza ukuba zonke iimveliso zolu hlobo zithengisa kakuhle. “Kufuneka nditsho ukuba [uJohnson] bubungqina bobhubhane. Sithengisa iziketi ezinde, iziketi ezibude buphakathi, kwaye siyaqala ukubona iziketi ezimfutshane. Udume ngoshicilelo lwakhe, kwaye sikwathengisa iijumpsuits zakhe ezinombala oqinileyo. Iibhulukhwe, ijumpsuit eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka enavy blue iyasenzela.”
Iingubo zexesha lolunye udidi oludumileyo. “Ngokuqinisekileyo sibona iilokhwe zithandwa kwakhona. Njengoko abathengi bethu beqala ukulungiselela imisitho enje ngomtshato, iminyhadala yothweso-zidanga, kunye nokudibana kwakhona nabahlobo kunye nosapho, sibona iilokhwe zithengiswa kwibhodi ukusuka kwisiqhelo ukuya kwizihlandlo ezingaphezulu, kunye neegawuni zoMtshakazi nazo ziye zaduma kwakhona, ”utshilo uShin.
Ngokuphathelele ijini ebhityileyo, wathi, “Iijini ezibhityileyo ziya kuhlala iyimfuneko kwiwodrophu, kodwa siyazithanda iimveliso ezintsha esizibonayo. I-denim edibeneyo, ibhulukhwe yomlenze othe ngqo kunye neebhulukhwe eziphakamileyo ezinomlenze obanzi ziye zaziwa kakhulu kwi-90s. Ngokwenene uyayithanda kakhulu. ” Uye wathi ibhrendi ekhethekileyo, Eselapha, ifumaneka eBrooklyn, evelisa i-batch denim encinci, ipeyintwe ngesandla kwaye yapeyishwa, kwaye yenza umsebenzi olungileyo. Ukongeza, i-Totême iqhube kakuhle, "Sikwathengisa iidenim ezimhlophe." I-Totême ineempahla ezininzi ezinithiweyo kunye neelokhwe, ezingaqhelekanga ngakumbi.
Xa wayebuzwa ngeeyunifomu ezintsha xa abathengi bebuyela eofisini, wathi: “Ngokuqinisekileyo ndicinga ukuba indlela entsha yokunxiba iza kukhululeka yaye ibe bhetyebhetye. Ukuthuthuzela kusabalulekile, kodwa ndicinga ukuba kuya kutshintshela kwizitayile zemihla ngemihla. Sibone iisuti ezininzi ze-chic knitwear esizithandayo. " Uthe ngaphambi kokuwa, baphehlelele ibhrendi yokunitha ekhethekileyo, uLisa Yang, eyona nto imalunga nokumataniswa kweempahla ezinithiweyo. Ifumaneka eStockholm kwaye isebenzisa ikheshi yendalo. “Intle kakhulu kwaye iqhuba kakuhle, kwaye sinethemba lokuba iza kuqhubeka iqhuba kakuhle. Ukhululekile kodwa ulungile. "
Wongeze ukuba wayebukele ukusebenza kwebhatyi, kodwa ekhululekile ngakumbi. Uthe ukuguquguquka kunye nokuthunga kuya kuba ngundoqo. “Abafazi baya kufuna ukuthatha iimpahla zabo ekhaya baye eofisini ukuze badibane nabahlobo; imele ibe nezinto ezininzi kwaye imfanele. Oku kuya kuba yindlela entsha yokunxiba,” utshilo.
I-Libby Page, uMhleli oMkhulu weNtengiso we-Net-a-porter, uthe: “Njengoko abathengi bethu bejonge ukubuyela e-ofisini, sibona utshintsho ukusuka kwisinxibo esiqhelekileyo ukuya kwizitayile eziphambili. Ngokumalunga neendlela, sibona kuChloé, uZimmermann no-Isabel. Ukuprintwa kweMarant kunye neepatheni zeentyatyambo zeelokhwe zabasetyhini ziye zanda-le yimveliso egqibeleleyo yempahla yokusebenza yasentwasahlobo, nayo ifanelekile kwiimini ezifudumeleyo kunye nobusuku. Njengenxalenye yomsitho wethu we-HS21, siza kuphehlelela i-'Chic in' nge-21 kaJuni iThe Heat' igxininisa imozulu eshushu kunye nokunxiba ukuze ubuyele emsebenzini.
Uthe xa kuziwa kwiindlela ze-denim, babona izitayela ezikhululekile, ezinkulu kunye nokunyuka kweendlela zebhaluni, ngakumbi kulo nyaka uphelileyo, kuba abathengi babo bafuna intuthuzelo kuzo zonke iinkalo zewadi yakhe. Uthe i-jeans yakudala ethe tye iye yaba sisitayile esiguquguqukayo kwi-wardrobe, kwaye i-brand yabo ilungelelene nale meko ngokongeza le ndlela kwingqokelela yayo engundoqo.
Xa ebuzwa ukuba ngaba i-sneakers lukhetho lokuqala, wathi i-Net-a-porter yazisa iithoni ezimhlophe ezitsha kunye neemilo ze-retro kunye nezitayile zasehlotyeni, ezifana ne-Loewe kunye ne-Maison Margiela x Reebok ukusebenzisana.
Ngokubhekiselele kwizinto azilindeleyo kwiyunifomu entsha yeofisi kunye nefashoni entsha yempahla yentlalontle, uPage uthe, “Imibala eqaqambileyo evuselela uvuyo iya kuba yeyona nto iphambili entwasahlobo. Ingqokelela yethu yamva nje ye-Dries Van Noten ekhethekileyo ye-capsule ibandakanya ukungathathi hlangothi ngokusebenzisa izitayile ezikhululekileyo kunye namalaphu. , I-aesthetics ekhululekile kwaye imnandi ehambelana nayo nayiphi na inkangeleko yemihla ngemihla. Sikwabona ukuthandwa kweedenim kuqhubeka nokunyuka, ngakumbi ukuqaliswa kwethu okutsha nje kwentsebenziswano kaValentino x Levi. Sinethemba lokubona abathengi bethu benxibisa iofisi yabo Yidibanise nedenim ukwenza inkangeleko ekhululekileyo kunye notshintsho olugqibeleleyo kwitheko lesidlo sangokuhlwa,” utshilo.
Izinto ezidumileyo kwi-Net-a-porter ziquka izinto ezithandwayo ezisuka kwi-Frankie Shop, njengeebhatyi ezikhutshiweyo ezikhutshiweyo kunye ne-suit yezemidlalo ye-Net-a-porter ekhethekileyo; Uyilo lweJacquemus, olunje ngemiphezulu yezityalo kunye neziketi, kunye neelokhwe ezinde ezineenkcukacha ezimdaka, iilokhwe zikaDoen zentyatyambo nezasetyhini, kunye nezinto ezibalulekileyo zewodrophu zasehlotyeni zikaTotême.
UMarie Ivanoff-Smith, umlawuli wefashoni yabasetyhini baseNordstrom, uthe abathengi bale mihla bacinga ngokubuyela emsebenzini kwaye baqala ukuzibandakanya kumalaphu alukiweyo kunye nenani elikhulu lamalaphu ehempe. “Zinezinto ezininzi. Uyakwazi ukugqoka okanye ukugqoka, unokuzinxiba ngoku, kwaye unokubuyela eofisini ngokupheleleyo ekwindla.
"Sibone ukubuya kolukiweyo, kungekuphela nje ukubuyela emsebenzini, kodwa ukuphuma ebusuku, kwaye waqala ukuphonononga oku." Uthe uNordstrom usebenze kakuhle kakhulu kunye noRag & Bone kunye noNili Lotan, kwaye wathi "banelaphu lehempe elingenakulinganiswa". Wathi ukuprinta nombala kubaluleke kakhulu. “IiFama zaseRio ziyayibulala. Asikwazi ukuqhubeka. Oku kuhle,” utshilo.
Uthe abathengi batyekele ngakumbi kwiicontours zomzimba kwaye banokubonisa ulusu oluninzi. “Iimeko zentlalo ziyenzeka,” utshilo. Ucaphule imizekelo yababoneleli abafana no-Ulla Johnson abaqhuba kakuhle kulo mmandla. Ukwaveze ukuba u-Alice + Olivia uza kusungula iilokhwe ezininzi kwimicimbi yentlalo. I-Nordstrom yenze umsebenzi omhle kunye neempawu ezifana noTed Baker, Ganni, Staud kunye neCinq à Sept. Lo mthengisi wenza umsebenzi omhle weengubo zasehlotyeni.
Uthe ubone iilokhwe zomdlalo wonke ziqhutywa kakuhle kunyaka ophelileyo kuba zikhululekile kakhulu. “Ngoku sibona iintsimbi neempempe zibuya nemibhalo emihle. Ngovuyo nangeemvakalelo, phuma uphele endlwini,” utshilo.
Ixesha lokuposa: Jul-08-2021