Ekuqaleni,Makhe ndikubuze umbuzo: ingaba isuti inamacandelo amabini: ilaphu kunye nezixhobo?
Hayi, impendulo ayilunganga.Isuti yenziwe ngamacandelo amathathu: ilaphu, izincedisi kunye nomgca.
Ilaphu kunye nezixhobo zibaluleke kakhulu, kodwa umgangatho we-suit uxhomekeke kwi-lining, kuba idibanisa izinto ezimbini ezihlukeneyo ze-ductile, iingubo kunye nezixhobo.
Ixabiso eliphantsi, elilungele isinxibo kwindlela yokunxiba kukusebenzisa i-adhesive lining, nayo yonke into eyenziwe ngesandla, kodwa ukusebenzisa isuti encamathelayo encamatheleyo isenokuba ngaphantsi kwama-2000 yuan oku kulandelayo, inqanaba eliphantsi lesuti yokuncamathelisa kwithuba lexesha, uya kufumanisa ukuba isuti yeendwangu kunye nezixhobo aziyi kuphinda zilungele, zidonsa omnye komnye ukuya kwelinye icala, kubonakala ngathi kukwahlulwa komdlalo.
I-lining elungileyo, umzekelo, iisuti zeshishini ezenziwe nguYUNAI kufuneka yenziwe ngoboya, ilinen nelinen yehashe. Ngamafutshane, izinto zendalo ziyafuneka. Injongo kukunceda ilaphu lesuti kunye nezincedisi ukuba zijikeleze kumda olinganiselweyo ngelixa zibanceda ukuseta kwakhona.
Inkalo yesibini: nangona umgangatho wezinto ezisetyenzisiweyo uphenjelelwa zizinto ezininzi, ixabiso lelaphu ngoku lixhomekeke ikakhulu kwindawo yemvelaphi. Ixabiso lamalaphu asekhaya ahluke kakhulu kulawo asuka kumazwe angaphandle, asuka eItali naseBritani.
Amalaphu esuti aphezulu ehlabathini aquka: Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA,I-VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO,IREDA,CERUTI 1881 ,YUNAI, esisigebenga soboya baseTaliyane;Ikwaluphawu lomgangatho woboya.UCHARLES CLAYTON, ezine ezilandelayo zezona zindala kunye nabavelisi boboya bexabiso. Iimpawu eziphezulu zelaphu lehempe yiBritane THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO njalo njalo.Ivenkile yesiko ineendidi ezimbalwa zeesuti kunye namalaphu ehempe ngokwesiseko yivenkile yesiko lobuchwephesha.
Ngokwesiqhelo, ezi fektri zineemfuno ezingqongqo kwimigangatho yobuchwephesha yeevenkile zesiko. Kuphela xa befikelela kwimigangatho ehambelanayo baya kugunyaza ukusetyenziswa kweempahla zabo kunye neempawu zorhwebo.Ukongezelela, kungakhathaliseki ukuba usebenzisa iingubo zasekhaya okanye ezithunyelwa ngaphandle, izithako ziyiboya, ngokuqinisekileyo, kuya kubakho ezinye izithako, ezifana ne-cashmere. , kodwa amalaphu akumgangatho ophezulu ayenziwe ngamalaphu endalo kunezixhobo zokwenziwa, kodwa awukwazi ukwenza iimfuno ezingqongqo kakhulu kwiilaphu zasekhaya.
1.Ilaphu loboya eligqwethekileyo
Ilaphu loboya libhekisa kwilaphu elenziwe ngoboya okanye uboya kunye nepolyester, i-viscose, i-acrylic, njl.
Uboya obugqwethekileyo lilaphu lempahla elikumgangatho ophezulu elenziwe ngoboya begusha obusulungekileyo nobucocekileyo, obunokuxutywa nomlinganiselo othile woboya bentsinga yekhemikhali okanye enye ifayibha yendalo, kwaye bucutshungulwe ngesixhobo sokukama, ukukama, ukuyila, ukusonta, ukuluka, ukudaya kunye nokugqiba. amaxesha amaninzi.
Inokuguquguquka okuhle kokuba indawo yeenwele zesilwanyana ibe neyodwa, isondo ethambileyo, isondo esahlukileyo kunye ne-crape ukumelana nokwabelana ngesondo, xa ifunxa ukufuma okanye umbilo wexhama ukuze uhlale ushushu ngesondo.
Impahla esele yenziwe ngelaphu elicikizekileyo loboya ihlala ixesha elide kwaye ayiyi kuphazamiseka ixesha elide. Zizolile ngakumbi ngenxa yokungabikho kwe-aurora. Zigudileyo kwaye zigudileyo kwimbonakalo, zibukeka kakuhle, zibukhali kwaye zicolile, zigcwele ukunxibelelana, iklasikhi ngokwesitayile, zithambile kwaye zendalo ngokukhazimla njalo njalo.
Okubizwa ngokuba kubi kakhulu kunye noboya, wazama ukuchaza, ukusuka kwi-Angle ezimbini enye ingaphezulu kwefayibha, enye kukuluka, i-fiber spinning yi-32 nangaphezulu kwe-40, ubale i-fiber ye-fiber egudileyo, i-joints encinci, i-high density yendalo, ukuxhathisa okulungileyo kwe-abrasion, intuthuzelo elungileyo, enye i-weave, ilaphu elibi elilukiweyo ngumatshini we-textile olungileyo, ukuthintela ukwaphuka kwefayibha, idigri eshinyeneyo iphezulu, ilaphu loboya, umdibaniso, kulula ukwaphuka, ukunxitywa kwendalo umahluko, ukuxinana akulunganga.
Amalaphu oboya obusulungekileyo awonakele kakhulu abhityileyo, anomphezulu ogudileyo kunye nemigca ecacileyo.
Umzimba ulungile, uthambile kwaye u-elastic.
Bamba izinto emva kokukhulula, ngokusisiseko akukho ukugoqa, nokuba kukho i-crease encinci inokunyamalala ngexesha elifutshane kakhulu.
Ukuchongwa kwelaphu loboya obusulungekileyo:
Ilaphu loboya elisulungekileyo ngombala othambileyo wendalo kunye nefuthe elihle le-thermal lukhetho lokuqala lokwenza iisuti zomgangatho ophezulu kunye ne-overcoats.
Kodwa ngoku ngakumbi nangakumbi amalaphu afana noboya, njengokuphuculwa kweteknoloji ye-textile, ifikelele kwinqanaba labathengi abaninzi ekunzima ukuyichonga, kodwa umbala, ukufudumala, ukuvakalelwa njalo njalo kungaphantsi kwempahla yoboya ecocekileyo.
Oku kulandelayo kwazisa iindlela ezininzi zokuchonga ilaphu loboya obusulungekileyo, kwireferensi yakho ekukhetheni iimpahla kunye nomgubo.
Okokuqala, bamba.
Amalaphu oboya obusulungekileyo ahlala eziva egudileyo, amalaphu oboya amade kunye nokuvakala okugudileyo, ukuntyiloza kweenwele ezibuyela umva.Kwaye kudityaniswe okanye ifayibha yemichiza esulungekileyo, enye ithambile kakhulu, enye ithambile kwaye ikhululekile, kunye nemvakalelo encangathi.
Okwesibini, jonga umbala.
Umbala welaphu loboya obusulungekileyo uthambile kwaye wendalo, ugqamile kwaye awunaxesha.Ngokwahlukileyo, udityaniswe okanye usulungekile umphezulu wefiber yekhemikhali, okanye i-luster imnyama, okanye inengqondo yokukhanya.
Okwesithathu, jonga ukuqina.
Bamba ilaphu ngokuqinileyo ngesandla, uze ulikhulule ngoko nangoko ukuze ubone ukuba ilaphu elilaphu linjani na. Ilaphu loboya obucocekileyo liphezulu, linokubuyisela ngokukhawuleza kwimeko yalo yangaphambili, kwaye lidibanise okanye iimveliso zemichiza yefayibha, ukuxhathisa imibimbi kubi, uninzi iimpawu zokushwabana ezicacileyo ngakumbi, okanye ukuchacha kade.
Isine,Ukuchongwa kokutsha.
Thatha inqwaba yomsonto, sebenzisa umlilo, ifayibha yoboya obusulungekileyo ivumba njengeenwele ezivuthayo, ifayibha yeekhemikhali ivumba njengeplastiki evuthayo. Ukuqina kwamasuntswana emva kokutsha, ngakumbi amacandelo efiber yekhemikhali akhona.
Ntlanu,Ukuchongwa kwengcambu enye.
Iinwele phantsi kwe-microscope ukubona zonke izilwanyana zinezikali, ukuba ngaba amalaphu eenwele ezinde okoko nje athathe inwele efana ngasentla wabeka amaxesha ambalwa uya kuhamba phezulu okanye ezantsi (ukuze kakuhle obu buchule kungathatha inwele ukusuka kumfuniselo wokuqala), ukuba yilaphu eliqhelekileyo, likhupha umsonto weengcambu, linqumle i-2 cm yemihlathi emibini ibe yintsika enye phantsi kwesandla sokuxubha ezine okanye ezintlanu, aziyi kuhamba.
1.Ilaphu elixutywe ngoboya kunye nepolyester
Ilaphu elidityanisiweyo loboya, elizezi, i-cashmere, i-polyester, i-spandex, iinwele zomvundla kunye nezinye iintsinga kunye noboya obuxutywe ngelaphu elilukiweyo. Uboya kunye nelaphu elidityanisiweyo lepolyester, phantsi kwelanga, umphezulu unendawo edanyazayo, ilaphu likhrisimezi kwaye liqinile, ukunwebeka okuhle, bamba. ilaphu likhululekile, phantse akukho mibimbi.
Umkhombandlela we-warp, i-warp, ubuninzi be-warp
-- Umkhombandlela wobude belaphu;
Imisonto esecaleni ibizwa ngokuba yi-warp yarn;
Inani leentambo ezilungiselelwe ngaphakathi kwe-intshi ye-1 yi-warp density;
Umkhombandlela weWeft, ukuzaliswa kunye nokuzaliswa koxinzelelo
-- Umkhombandlela wobubanzi belaphu;
Umsonto ubizwa ngokuba yiweft, kwaye inani lemisonto phakathi kwe-intshi yi-weft density.
ukuxinana
-- Isetyenziselwa ukumela inani lemisonto ngobude beyunithi yelaphu le-shuttle, ngokubanzi inani lemisonto ngaphakathi kwe-intshi eyi-1 okanye i-10 yeesentimitha. Imigangatho yesizwe yaseTshayina imisela ukuba inani lemisonto phakathi kweesentimitha ezili-10 lisetyenziselwa ukumela ukuxinana, kodwa amashishini amalaphu asasebenzisa inani lemisonto phakathi kwe-intshi e-1 ukumela ubuninzi.
Umzekelo, okubonwa ngokuqhelekileyo "45x45/108x58" kubhekiselele kwimisonto ye-weft kunye ne-warp enoxinano lwe-108 kunye ne-58 ngokulandelelanayo.
ububanzi
-- Ububanzi obusebenzayo belaphu budla ngokubonakaliswa ngee-intshi okanye iisentimitha. Eziqhelekileyo ziyi-36 intshi, i-44 intshi, i-56-60 intshi, njl, ezibizwa ngokuba zincinci, eziphakathi kunye nobubanzi, ngokulandelanayo. Amalaphu aphezulu kuno-intshizi ezingama-60 abanzi, adla ngokubizwa ngokuba lilaphu elibanzi.
Ububanzi buphawulwe ngokubanzi emva koxinaniso. Umzekelo, ukuba ilaphu elikhankanyiweyo kwi: 3 yongezwa kunye nobubanzi, iya kubonakaliswa njenge "45x45/108x58/60" ", okt ububanzi ngama-intshi angama-60.
ubunzima
-- Ubunzima begram yelaphu ngokuqhelekileyo yigram yobunzima belaphu kwiimitha ezikwere. Ubunzima begram luphawu olubalulekileyo lobugcisa beempahla ezinithiweyo, kwaye ubunzima begram ngokuqhelekileyo buthathwa njengesalathisi esibalulekileyo sobugcisa beempahla zoboya.
Ubunzima begram ye-denim ngokuqhelekileyo buchazwa njenge "OZ", oko kukuthi, inani lee-ounces zobunzima belaphu kwi-square yadi, njengee-ounces ezi-7, ii-ounces ezili-12 ze-denim, njl.
intambo edayiwe
EJapan, ibizwa ngokuba "yilaphu elidayiweyo", elibhekisa kwinkqubo yokudaya umsonto okanye umsonto kunye nokuluka ilaphu ngemisonto enemibala. Olu hlobo lwelaphu lubizwa ngokuba "yilaphu elidayiweyo". Imizi-mveliso evelisa ilaphu elidaywe ngemisonto ngokuqhelekileyo ibizwa ngokuba yimizi-mveliso yokudaya neyokuluka, njengedenim, yaye amalaphu ehempe amaninzi adayiweyo.
2.Ilaphu elidityanisiweyo loboya kunye ne-viscose
Ukukhanya kumfiliba.
Imvakalelo embi kakhulu ibuthathaka, ngelixa uboya beboya bukhululekile.
Olu hlobo lwelaphu alunalastiki kwaye lucwebile kunoboya obusulungekileyo kunye ne-polyester yoboya, ilaphu elidityanisiweyo loboya.Ukuba umxholo we-viscose uphezulu, ilaphu kulula ukusonga.
Ikhemikhali esulungekileyo yefibre yoboya efana nelaphu lemveli le-viscose, ifayibha yoboya eyenziweyo njengemathiriyeli ekrwada yelaphu elifana noboya, ubumnyama obukhazimlayo, imvakalelo ethambileyo, ukungabikho kwemvakalelo epholileyo. indlela esebenzayo yokuchonga ilaphu le-viscose ukuba amandla omsonto athathwe kwilaphu ngokucacileyo ayancipha xa emanzi kunaxa womile.Ukongezelela, eli laphu elifana noboya liyaqina kwaye liqina emva kokufunxwa.Ngenkqubela phambili yenzululwazi kunye nobuchwepheshe. , ukulinganisa iimveliso zoboya ngombala, ukuvakalelwa, ukuqina kwakhona kuye kwaba.
Iintlobo eziphambili:
Inwele zomvundla
Ngokubanzi, umlinganiselo othile woboya bomvundla kunye noboya buyadityaniswa kwaye lulukiwe. Iimpawu zejezi yomvundla zikwimicu ecolekileyo, imtyibilizi kwaye ivakale njenge-waxy, i-lap ethambileyo kunye ne-fluffy ebusweni, kunye nokuguquguquka okuhle. Kukhululekile kwaye kuyindalo ukunxiba, kwaye i-nap kwindawo ephakathi kulula ukuwa.
Ukuba inkqubo yokuqala ukwenza ijezi kwaye ukudaya (oko kukuthi ukuluka kunye nokudaya) yamkelwe, umbala kunye nokukhazimla kuya kuba nyulu ngakumbi kwaye kukhazimle, kunye nelatisi ekhethekileyo, ilungele ngokukhethekileyo iimpahla zangaphandle zabasetyhini abancinci.
Iinwele zemichiza yefiber
Into eqhelekileyo yeengubo kukukhanya kwayo.
Yiba njengehempe ye-acrylic, uthunge ngomsonto omninzi we-acrylic, ubume bayo boboya buziva bomelele, umbala kunye nokukhazimla, umgangatho wesixhobo kukukhukhumala okuthambileyo okuthambileyo, izinga lokubuyisela ukufuma yi-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuqhawula ifayibha mde kunosinga loboya, ayifuni inundu, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kubuyiselwe izinga liphantsi kunoboya, gcina isondo esishushu ngaphantsi kwe sweatshi ecocekileyo yoboya, ixabiso lincinci, kodwa ukupelisa kulula, kufanelekile iimpahla zabantwana.
Kutshanje, imakethi yamazwe ngamazwe ukuya kwi-acrylic, i-polyamide ifayibha edityanisiweyo ngomsonto, i-acrylic elungisiweyo yokuxelisa umsonto we-mohair, i-sweaters yayo inokuthelekiswa neenwele zendalo zomvundla, iimpahla ze-mohair.
Iinwele zezilwanyana ezixutywe nemicu yemichiza
"Ineempawu ezihambelanayo" zeenwele ezahlukeneyo zezilwanyana kunye nemicu yeekhemikhali, kwaye inkangeleko yayo inoboya, amandla okwandisa aphuculwe, kwaye ixabiso lejezi liyancitshiswa. Yimveliso elungileyo kwaye engabizi.
Kodwa kwijezi edibeneyo, kukho ingxaki yokuba isiphumo sokudaya asifanelekanga ngenxa yeendlela ezahlukeneyo zokudaya kunye namandla okufunxa umbala weentlobo ezahlukeneyo zemicu.
3.Imathiriyeli yoboya obungeyomfuneko obufana noboya
Abantu baseBritani baba ngabokuqala ukufunda ngokutsalwa kweprotheyini kwiglu yezilwanyana ukwenza imicu yeprotini eyenziweyo.
Ngowe-1935, abanye abantu baseItali bazama ukukhupha isonka samasi ebisini ukuze benze uboya obungeyomfuneko.
Ukususela ngoko, amanye amazwe aye aphumelela ekwenzeni imicu eyenziwe ngeprotini yeembotyi zesoya namandongomane.
Ngenxa yeengxaki zokusetyenziswa kunye neendleko zokwenziwa kweentsinga ezinjalo, imveliso incinci.
YUNAI mfiliba, ukunqongophala kokuziva crisp, ngenxa yokulamba okulambathayo, kulula kakhulu ukuvela zou Fold, kwaye akukho lula ukunyamalala.
Kukho iindidi ezimbini zeentsinga ezenziwe ngumntu: ifayibha ehlaziyiweyo kunye nefayibha yemichiza. Ifayibha ehlaziyiweyo yifiber ye-viscose eyenziwe ngomthi kunye nefiber yengca ngokulungiswa kweekhemikhali.
Ifayibha yekhemikhali yifiber eyenziwe ngepetroleum, igesi yendalo, amalahle kunye neemveliso zolimo.
Ngokwemilo kunye nokusetyenziswa kweentsinga ezenziwe ngumntu, kukho iindidi ezintathu: i-rayon, i-rayon kunye noboya.
Iintlobo ezibalulekileyo zinefiber viscose, i-acetate fiber, i-copper ammonia fiber njalo njalo.
Ifayibha ehlaziyiweyo inokwahlulwa ibe yifiber eselulosi ehlaziyiweyo, ifayibha ye-cellulose ester, ifayibha yeprotheyini kunye nezinye ifayibha zepolymer zendalo.
Iimpawu zayo xa kuthelekiswa nemicu yeekhemikhali, iifibers ezisisiseko.
Ilaphu lefiber eyenziwe ngumntu ngokusisiseko kukwalatha kwifilament ye-viscose kunye nelaphu lefiber esisiseko, oko kukuthi umqhaphu owenziwe ngumntu abantu abawuqhelileyo, irayon njl.njl.
Ukongeza, ikwabandakanya inxalenye yelaphu lefayibha etyebileyo kunye nelaphu lefayibha yobude obuphakathi phakathi kwefilament kunye nestaple.
Ke ngoko, iipropathi zeempahla zefiber yomntu zimiselwa ikakhulu ziipropathi zefiber viscose.
1. Amalaphu eRayon kunye ne-rayon athambileyo xa ebamba, ayaphefumla kwaye akhululekile ukunxiba, kwaye anemibala eqaqambileyo.
2. Ilaphu lefiber eyenziwe ngumntu ine-hygroscopicity enhle, kwaye i-hygroscopicity iyona nto ibhetele kwi-chemical fiber.Kodwa amandla ayo amanzi aphantsi kakhulu, malunga ne-50% yamandla omileyo kuphela, kwaye izinga lokuhla kwelaphu likhulu, ngoko ke kufuneka licuthe. kwangaphambili ngaphambi kokusika kube ngcono.
3. Ilaphu le-viscose eliqhelekileyo lineempawu ze-drape elungileyo, ukuqina okungahambi kakuhle, ukunyanzeliswa kunye nokumelana nemibimbi, ngoko ke isambatho sayo sinokugcinwa kwemo embi kwaye sithande ukushwabana.
4.Ilaphu lefayibha yeViscose ineasidi elungileyo kunye nokuxhathisa kwealkali, ukumelana nokukhanya kwelanga kunye nokunye ukumelana namachiza.
5.Imathiriyeli esulungekileyo yoboya obufana noboya
Ngokubanzi, ifayibha yokwenziwa isetyenziswa njengeyona nto iphambili, ifayibha eyenziweyo okanye isilika enemibala njengomsonto oncedisayo, kwaye enye inoveli ifayibha yokwenziwa isetyenziswa njengeyona nto iphambili, enesakhiwo esifanelekileyo selaphu. Olu hlobo lwelaphu luneentlobo ezimbini ze-bamboo-like, isitayile sendalo.
Inophawu lwesitayile sendalo sefiber yendalo.
Ilaphu linemibala eqaqambileyo, ilungile kwi-luster, i-crisp kunye ne-elastic, ilungele uluntu.
I-Chemical fiber wool, uphawu oluqhelekileyo lwempahla lulula.
Yiba njengehempe ye-acrylic, uthunge ngomsonto omninzi we-acrylic, ubume bayo boboya buziva bomelele, umbala kunye nokukhazimla, umgangatho wesixhobo kukukhukhumala okuthambileyo okuthambileyo, izinga lokubuyisela ukufuma yi-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuqhawula ifayibha mde kunosinga loboya, ayifuni inundu, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kubuyiselwe izinga liphantsi kunoboya, gcina isondo esishushu ngaphantsi kwe sweatshi ecocekileyo yoboya, ixabiso lincinci, kodwa ukupelisa kulula, kufanelekile iimpahla zabantwana.
Kutshanje, imarike yamazwe ngamazwe ukuya acrylic, poly-I-amide fiber blended larn, i-acrylic modified mitation yarn mohair yarn, yayo kwihempe inokuthelekiswa neenwele zendalo zomvundla, iimpahla zemohair.
Iinwele zezilwanyana kunye noboya obudityanisiweyo bemichiza, kunye neenwele ezahlukeneyo zezilwanyana kunye nefayibha yekhemikhali "iimpawu ezihambelanayo", inkangeleko yayo inemvakalelo yoboya, amandla okwandisa ayaphuculwa, ukunciphisa iindleko zejezi, zixabiso eliphantsi kunye neemveliso ezintle.
Kodwa kwijezi edityanisiweyo, kukho ingxaki yokuba iintlobo ezahlukeneyo zeentsinga zinokudaya okwahlukileyo kunye namandla okufunxa umbala, nto leyo ebangela ukuba isiphumo sokudaya singafanelekanga.
Ukwahlula phakathi kwemathiriyeli yoboya obufana nefayibha kunye nelaphu loboya elisulungekileyo:
Ilaphu elifana noboya lenziwe ubukhulu becala ngosinga lwekhemikhali, kwaye ifayibha yeviscose ingaphezulu, njengepolyester/viscose medium medium long wool, ipolyester esulungekileyo kunye nezinye iimveliso ezifana noboya.
Okokuqala, iglosi yahlukile.
Ilaphu loboya elisulungekileyo lithambile kwaye liyindalo, linombala ongemhle kakhulu. Ilaphu loboya lokulingisa ifayibha zekhemikhali lityebile ngombala kwaye liqaqambile. Ukuba uqwalasela ngenyameko phantsi kwelanga, ngokufuthi uya kubona iindawo eziqaqambileyo nezimenyezelayo.
Eli nqaku lokuxelisa uboya obupholileyo bufane nelaphu loboya nalo linokungacaciswa.
Okwesibini, ukuziva kunye nokunwebeka kwahlukile.
Amalaphu oboya asulungekileyo aziva ethambile, etyhutyhe kancinci, ithambo lomzimba, eshwabene kancinane kodwa engaqinanga, ethambile kodwa engaphindi athe tye;
Ngelixa i-polyester, i-wool-efana nenkangeleko, kodwa ivakale ithambile kwaye igudileyo, akukho thambo lomzimba, ishwabene ngakumbi, iphinda ibuyele kancinci.
Okwesithathu, tshisa isilika emva kokuzoba.
Umsonto welaphu loboya obusulungekileyo unokubonwa emva kokungalingani kwefayibha yoboya, ubude obahlukeneyo, i-curl yendalo, kunye ne-viscose ilinganisa ubude belaphu loboya, ubukhulu be-uniform obuhambelanayo.
Emva kokutsha, emva kokuba umlilo uvutha ngokuthe chu, ushiya umlilo uqhubeka uvutha, iinwele zikhatshwa livumba, uthuthu, ityhubhu emnyama crispy, i-twist eyile ibe ngumgubo wamalaphu oboya acocekileyo, kwaye kufuphi nomlilo uyavutha, uvutha ngokukhawuleza. , ilangatye elityheli, ukutshisa i-clamp, uthuthu olulula olubhabhayo olungwevu, olumhlophe kwaye lushiye kunzima ukutyumza iqhuma le-polyester / viscose.
Ikwashiya iqhuma elimnyama emva kokutshiswa.
Ukususela kwisibini ukuya kwisibini okanye ngaphezulu kwezithako okanye ilaphu elidityanisiweyo elidityanisiweyo: uboya / i-viscose, uboya / ipolyester, uboya / isilika, uboya / i-viscose / i-spandex, njl. kunye nendlela yokusebenzisa ukuchongwa kwefiber ezininzi, ukusuka ekujongeni kwakhona, ukutshisa ukutshisa ukuvavanya emva kovavanyo, kunokufikelela ngokukhuselekileyo kwisigqibo.
6.Uboya beMercerized
Imathiriyeli yoboya beMercerizing yimathiriyeli yoboya eqhelekileyo emva konyango lwekhemikhali kunye nonyango ngokwasemzimbeni, ukutshatyalaliswa kwesikali sosinga soboya, kwaye ngearhente yovavanyo lwekhemikhali, yenza uboya bube mpuluswa, bubengezele, bushwabane xa buhlanjwa, bulungele iilokhwe zomtshato.
Uboya be-Mercerizing kunyango lweemveliso zoboya kwinkqubo ye-mercerizing yokudaya uboya kunye nokugqiba.
Uboya kufuneka bufakwe iklorin yiBasolan I-DC okanye iphathwe ngeprotease ukutshabalalisa izikali zomphezulu woboya kunye nokunciphisa umahluko phakathi komlinganiso wokukhuhlana ngexesha lokuhamba phambili kunye nokubuyela umva koboya. Emva konyango, ukukhazimla koboya kuyenyuka, okuqhelekileyo kwaziwa njengoboya bemercerized.
Uboya obuyi Mercerized bunokulukwa ngoboya obusulungekileyo okanye budityaniswe.
Iimpawu eziphambili zi-anti-shrinkage, umatshini - uhlambe, u-anti-pilling.
Itekhnoloji yoboya obuyiMercerized yaqala phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1990, bubuchwephesha obutsha bokudaya kunye nokugqiba obuphuhliswe ngokwesiseko seklorini yemveli kunye nokuthintela ubuchwephesha bokuthintela uboya.
Ilaphu loboya eliphathwayo linemvakalelo ye cashmere kunye ne silky luster.
Ngenxa yezi mpawu, iimveliso zoboya be-mercerizing zakhawuleza zaduma.
Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, uboya be-mercerized buthandwa kakhulu, isabelo semarike sigqithise isixa soboya obuqhelekileyo.
Kukho iikhonsepthi ezahlukeneyo zoboya bemercerized e-China nakwamanye amazwe ehlabathini. E-China, uboya obuhluthwe iphosphorus bubizwa ngokuba buboya bemercerized, ngelixa uboya begusha bamazwe ngamazwe bugalelwa ngomphunga oshushu, kwaye bunwenwe ngama-30% ~ 50%. Emva koko, emva kokupholiswa ngamanzi abandayo kunye nokumila, uboya begusha obude nobubhityileyo bubizwa ngokuba buboya bemercerized.
7.Uboya
Uboya bubhekiselwa ngokubanzi njengelaphu losinga loboya.
Ifayibha yoboya ziimolekyuli zeprotheyini ezidityanisiweyo, imbonakalo yomaleko okhethekileyo wesakhiwo esiqinileyo sempondo, sigqunywe ngokuqinileyo, isakhiwo seflake sincinci kakhulu, inzuzo yalo kukuthintela ukungcola kwifiber, ngoko ke, iimpahla zoboya azingcoli lula.
Abacoci abomileyo bahlala bedibana neentlobo ezahlukeneyo zamalaphu xa behlamba impahla, kunye nempahla yoboya nayo ixhaphakile.
Isizathu sokuba uboya buvelise ukukhanya okuqaqambileyo:
(1) Umaleko wesikali esineempondo kumphezulu wosinga woboya unxitywe ngokuyinxenye;
(2) Uthuli kunye nobumdaka buhlikihla kancinci kwaye bunamathele kumsele, ukuze umphezulu welaphu ube mpuluswa, kubangele ukuphinda kukhanye rhoqo, okukhokelela kukukhanya okuqaqambileyo.
Iindlela zokususa ukukhanya:
(1) Isonka sinokujijwa sibe ngumgubo size sisasazwe ekukhanyeni, ngentsimbi ibe yintsimbi;
(2) Ukuvunwa: Gxuma isisombululo se-acetic acid kunye noxinzelelo lwe-3-5% kunye nobushushu be-50℃imizuzu emi-3-5, uze uhlambulule ngamanzi acacileyo.
Iviniga emhlophe nayo ingasetyenziswa.
(3) Hlamba ngebrashi xa uhlamba.
Ifayibha yifayibha yendalo, sisiphumo sembewu yesityalo, iziqu kunye namagqabi anefayibha ezininzi zeekhemikhali azinamgangatho olungileyo, ijini engaphezulu ye-hydrophilic kwifayibha yomqhaphu, i-hygroscopicity ilungile, inxibe ukufunxwa kokubila, ukungena komoya, ukukhululeka, kunye nehemp kwaye ipholile. , ukuthamba, ukungabambeleli kwiimpawu ezisetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwishishini lempahla, yamkelwe ngumthengi.
Izinto eziluncedo: ithambile kwaye iyalastiki esandleni, ithambile kwaye icwebezelayo yendalo, ikhululekile kwaye intle ukunxiba, imvakalelo yomgangatho ophezulu, ukufunxwa kakuhle kokufuma, akukho lula ukuhambisa ubushushu, ukugcinwa kakuhle kobushushu, ukuchasana kwe-crease, ngakumbi emva kokulungiswa kwempahla kunye ne-ayina ngcono. ukubunjwa kunye nokukhusela imilo yengubo;
Qaphela: Ubushushu bokuhlamba akufuneki bube phezulu kakhulu, musa ukuhlikihla okanye ukujija ukunqanda ukukhanya kwelanga.
Indawo yokucinezela: I-ayina emanzi, uku-ayina izinto zomile ukusuka kwelinye icala.
Ukungalungi: i-alkali - ukumelana, iyancipha, kulula ukushwabana.
8.Ilaphu loboya-polyester
Ilaphu loboya-ipolyester (wool-polyester) : Ilaphu elenziwe ngoboya kunye nepolyester edityanisiweyo yelaphu, olona hlobo luqhelekileyo lwelaphu elixutywe noboya.
Ilaphu elenziwe ngoboya kunye nepolyester edityanisiweyo.
Umlinganiselo oqhelekileyo wokudityaniswa kwewulu-polyester ngama-45∶I-55, engakwazi ukugcina inzuzo yoboya kuphela, kodwa inika umdlalo opheleleyo kwinzuzo ye-polyester.
Phantse onke amalaphu arhabaxa kunye namagqwirha anodidi oludityanisiweyo oludityanisiweyo lwewulu-polyester.
Phakathi kwazo ilaphu eligqwethekileyo loboya-ipolyester ebhityileyo elineentyatyambo elikwabizwa ngokuba lipholile, elaziwa njengewulu epholileyo ngokwenene, yeyona nto ibonakalisa iimpawu zokudityaniswa koboya bepolyester yenye yelaphu.
Kukho i-warp ephindwe kabini kunye ne-weft, i-warp ephindwe kabini, i-single-ply warp kunye ne-warp enye kunye ne-weft.
Ngokuqhelekileyo nge-50 ~ 70 indoda ephindwe kabini, amalaphu amancinci ane-100 ~ 120 indoda ephindwe kabini.
Ubunzima belaphu bumalunga ne-170 ~ 190 g/m 2.
Xa kuthelekiswa ne-wool tweed, i-wool-polyester encinci i-tweed ilula kwaye ilula, kunye nokubuyiswa kakuhle kwemibimbi, iqinile kwaye igugile, ilula ukuyihlamba, ikhawuleza ukomisa, i-pleat ehlala ixesha elide, izinzileyo ngobukhulu, kodwa ingabi njengoboya.
Ukuba usebenzisa i-polyester elula njengento ekrwada, umphezulu we-silk luster.
Ukuba uboya obukhethekileyo besilwanyana obufana nekheshmere okanye uboya benkamela busetyenziswa kwizinto eziluhlaza zokuxuba, buya kuziva butyibilika kwaye buncangathi.
Umlinganiselo oqhelekileyo wokudibanisa i-wool-polyester yi-45:55, engenakugcina kuphela inzuzo yoboya, kodwa inika umdlalo kwiinzuzo ze-polyester.
Izinto eziluncedo: uboya obudityaniswe nepolyester, ukukhanya kunye nokukhanya kwindalo, ukusebenza kakuhle kokubuyisela imibimbi.
Ihlala ixesha elide, kulula ukuyihlamba kwaye yomile, izinzile ngobukhulu, iqinile kwi-tuck
Amanqaku okuhlamba: cwilisa ngamanzi abandayo imizuzu eyi-15 kuqala, emva koko uhlambe ngesicoci sokwenziwa ngokubanzi, ukuhlamba ubushushu bolwelo akufanele kudlule ii-degrees ezingama-45, ikhola, i-cuff indawo emdaka inokusebenzisa ibhrashi yoboya ethambileyo ukubrasha ngobunono, emva kokucoca icocekile, inokujija ngobunono, Thenga indawo epholileyo yokungena umoya, ungabi yodwa, akufuneki yomiswe, hleze xa ivuthiwe ivelise imibimbi.
9.T / R ilaphu (umxube wepolyester / viscose)
Ngenye yeempawu ze-T / R zendwangu yokwenza ijacket ye-collar yokuma, ijacket ye-lapel kunye nokugqoka okungaqhelekanga kunye nenani elikhulu le-plaid okanye umgca, i-flash okanye i-T / R ye-monochrome.
Ilaphu le-T / R lilaphu elidityanisiweyo le-polyester viscose.I-viscose ye-polyester exutywe luhlobo oluhambelanayo. I-50%, olu hlobo lwelaphu elidityanisiweyo liyakwazi ukugcina i-polyester iqinile, ixhathisa imibimbi, ubukhulu obuzinzile, ihlanjwe kwaye inxibe iimpawu ezinamandla.Ukuxutywa kwefiber ye-viscose kuphucula ukunyanzeliswa komoya kwelaphu kunye nokuchasana nokunyibilika komngxuma.Ipilisi kunye ne-antistatic phenomena kwelaphu zancitshiswa.
Sebenzisa i-65/35 okanye i-67/33 ye-polyester / i-viscid-blend ratio.I-Polyester / viscose blend iyafana ne-polyester / viscose.Iimpawu zolu hlobo lwelaphu elidibeneyo ligudileyo kwaye licocekile, imibala eqaqambileyo, imilo yoboya obuqinileyo, isandla esihle. ukuqina, ukufunxwa kakuhle kokufuma; Kodwa isigxina asisihle.
Izinto eziluncedo: ziqinile, ziyakwazi ukumelana nemibimbi, ubukhulu obuzinzile, ziyahlambeka kwaye ziyanxitywa.
Inokuphucula ukunyanzeliswa komoya kwelaphu, ukunciphisa iipilisi kunye ne-antistatic phenomenon.
Amanqaku okuhlamba: Umatshini wokuhlamba unokusetyenziswa, musa ukuxubha ngebrashi, ukuze ugweme ukupilisi, ukomisa kwelinye icala.
10.Uxinaniso oluphezulu lwe-NC
Uxinaniso oluphezulu ilaphu le-NC luhlobo lwelaphu elidityanisiweyo okanye eliphothiweyo ngepoly-iamide (nayiloni) kunye nomsonto womqhaphu.
Imveliso idibanisa izibonelelo zenylon kunye nekotoni.
Ukunxiba-Isakhono senayiloni sibeka kwindawo yokuqala phakathi kweentsinga zendalo kunye nemicu yekhemikhali. Ukufunxa ukufuma kwenylon kungcono kunokwepolyester, kwaye ukunxitywa kwayo okuthuthuzelayo kunye neempawu zokudaya zingcono kunezo zepolyester. Ke ngoko, ukufunxa ukufuma kunye nokunxiba intuthuzelo yentambo yomqhaphu akuyi kuncitshiswa xa kudityaniswa okanye kudityaniswe nelaphu yomqhaphu.
Inayiloni ine-elastic egqwesileyo. Emva kokudibanisa okanye ukudibanisa kunye nentambo yekotoni, i-elasticity yelaphu iyaphuculwa.
Ukungalungi kwelaphu le-NC kukuba: ngenxa ye-nylon ebandakanyekayo kwi-interweaving okanye ukudibanisa, ukumelana nobushushu kunye nokumelana nokukhanya kwelaphu kubi, nikela ingqalelo ekuhlambeni kunye ne-ayina kwinkqubo yokusetyenziswa ukuhlangabezana neemeko, ukwenzela ukuba ugweme umonakalo.
Iimpawu zayo ezibalaseleyo zesitayile: akulula ukunxiba, ithambile kwaye ikhululekile, kulula ukuyicoca.
Musa ukutshisa elangeni, musa ukugrumba.
Iindawo zokuhlambela: Musa ukomisa ucocekile, wome ebumnyameni.
Indlela yogcino: musa ukunxiba ixesha lonyaka, buyisela umva kwingqokelela yeplastiki ecaba.
Ixesha lokuposa: Aug-06-2021