Sharmon Lebby munyori uye anogadzikana fashoni stylist anodzidza uye anoshuma pamharadzano yezvakatipoteredza, fashoni, uye nharaunda yeBIPOC.
Wool ndiro jira remazuva anotonhora nehusiku hunotonhora. Mucheka uyu wakabatana nembatya dzekunze. Icho chinhu chakapfava, chakapfava, chinowanzo gadzirwa nepolyester. Mittens, heti, uye machira zvese zvinogadzirwa nezvinhu zvekugadzira zvinonzi polar fleece.
Sezvakaita chero jira rakajairika, tinoda kudzidza zvakawanda nezvekuti mvere dzemakwai dzinoonekwa sedzisingagoneki uye kuti dzinofananidzwa sei nemamwe machira.
Makushe akagadzirwa sechinzvimbo chemvere dzemakwai. Muna 1981, kambani yekuAmerica inonzi Malden Mills (yava kunzi Polartec) yakatungamira mukugadzira zvinhu zvepolyester. Kuburikidza nekushandira pamwe nePatagonia, vacharamba vachigadzira machira emhando yepamusoro, akareruka kupfuura makushe, asi achine zvinhu zvakafanana neshinda dzemhuka.
Makore gumi gare gare, kumwe kubatana pakati pePolartec nePatagonia kwakabuda; panguva ino chinangwa chaive chekushandisa mabhodhoro epurasitiki akadzokororwa kugadzira makushe. Mucheka wekutanga wakasvibira, ruvara rwemabhodhoro akadzokororwa. Nhasi, mabhureki anotora mamwe matanho ekublechisa kana dhayi akadzokororwa polyester fiber asati aisa akadzokororwa polyester fiber pamusika. Ikozvino kune mavara akasiyana-siyana anowanikwa emvere dzemakwai dzakagadzirwa kubva kune-post-consumer tsvina.
Kunyange zvazvo mvere dzemakwai dzinowanzogadzirwa nepolyester, nenyanzvi inogona kugadzirwa nemhando ipi zvayo yefiber.
Kufanana nevelvet, chinhu chikuru chepolar fleece ndiyo jira remvere. Kugadzira nzvimbo dzakapfava kana dzakasimudzwa, Malden Mills anoshandisa cylindrical simbi waya mabhurashi kutyora zvishwe zvakagadzirwa panguva yekuruka. Izvi zvakare zvinosundira fiber kumusoro. Zvisinei, nzira iyi inogona kukonzera kuputira kwejira, zvichiita kuti pave nemabhora maduku efiber pamusoro pemucheka.
Kuti ugadzirise dambudziko rekuputira, zvinyorwa zvinonyanya "kuveurwa", izvo zvinoita kuti jira rive rakapfava uye rinogona kuchengetedza kunaka kwayo kwenguva yakareba. Nhasi, hunyanzvi hwakafanana hunoshandiswa kugadzira makushe.
Polyethylene terephthalate chips ndiko kutanga kweiyo fiber kugadzira maitiro. Tsvina inonyungudutswa yobva yamanikidzirwa nemudisiki rine maburi manyoro anonzi spinneret.
Apo zvidimbu zvakanyungudutswa zvinobuda mumakomba, zvinotanga kutonhora uye kuoma kuita faibha. Mafiibha acho anobva arukwa pamaspools akadziisa kuita masumbu makuru anonzi tows, ayo anobva atambanudzwa kuita shinda refu uye yakasimba. Mushure mokutambanudza, inopiwa kugadzirwa kwakakanganiswa kuburikidza nemushini we crimping, uye wobva waoma. Panguva ino, mafibisi anochekwa kuita masendimita, akafanana neshinda dzemvere dzemakwai.
Mafiibha aya anogona kubva agadzirwa kuita shinda. Madhiri uye akachekwa madhiri anopfuudzwa nemuchina wemakadhi kuita tambo dzefiber. Tambo idzi dzinobva dzapinzwa mumuchina wekuruka, uyo unogadzira tambo dzakapfava uye wodzipinza kuita mabhobhoni. Mushure mekudhaya, shandisa muchina wekuruka kuruka shinda kuita jira. Kubva ipapo, murwi unogadzirwa nekupfuura jira nemuchina wekurara. Pakupedzisira, muchina wekugera unocheka nzvimbo yakasimudzwa kuita makushe.
Iyo PET yakadzokororwa inoshandiswa kugadzira makushe inobva mumabhodhoro epurasitiki akadzokororwa. Tsvina yepashure pemutengi inocheneswa uye inobviswa utachiona. Mushure mekuoma, bhodhoro rinopwanyika kuita zvidimbu zviduku zvepurasitiki ndokushambidzwa zvakare. Rudzi rwakareruka rwakasvibiswa, bhodhoro regirini rinoramba rakasvibira, uye gare gare rakadhayiwa kune rakasviba ruvara. Zvadaro tevera maitiro akafanana nePET yepakutanga: nyungudusa zvidimbu uye zvishandure kuita shinda.
Musiyano mukuru pakati pemvere nekotoni ndewekuti imwe inogadzirwa nemagetsi ekugadzira. Fleece yakagadzirirwa kutevedzera mvere dzemakwai uye kuchengetedza hydrophobic uye thermal insulation zvimiro, nepo donje rakajairika uye rinonyanya kushandiswa. Haisi chinhu chete, asiwo fiber inogona kurukwa kana kurukwa mune chero rudzi rwemachira. Faibha dzedonje dzinogona kutoshandiswa kugadzira makushe.
Kunyange zvazvo donje richikuvadza zvakatipoteredza, zvinotendwa kuti rakasimba kudarika makushe echinyakare. Nekuda kwekuti polyester inogadzira makushe inogadzirwa, zvinogona kutora makumi emakore kuti iparare, uye mwero webiodegradation wedonje unokurumidza. Muyero chaiwo wekuparara unoenderana nemamiriro emucheka uye kana iri 100% cotton.
Wool yakagadzirwa nepolyester inowanzova jira repamusoro-soro. Kutanga, polyester inogadzirwa kubva petroleum, fossil mafuta uye mashoma zviwanikwa. Sezvatinoziva tose, kushandiswa kwepolyester kunodya simba nemvura, uye inewo makemikari akawanda anokuvadza.
Kudhayiwa kwemachira ekugadzira kunokanganisawo zvakatipoteredza. Iyi nzira haingoshandisi mvura yakawanda chete, asiwo inobvisa mvura yakasvibiswa ine dhayi dzisina kushandiswa uye makemikari anogadzirwa, izvo zvinokuvadza kune zvipenyu zvemvura.
Kunyange zvazvo polyester inoshandiswa mumvere dzemakwai isingagadziriswi, inoora. Zvisinei, izvi zvinosiya zvidimbu zviduku zvepurasitiki zvinonzi microplastics. Iri harisi dambudziko chete kana jira rinopera mugomba remarara, asiwo pakugeza zvipfeko zvemvere. Kushandiswa kwevatengi, kunyanya kuwacha zvipfeko, kune simba guru pane zvakatipoteredza munguva yehupenyu hwezvipfeko. Zvinotendwa kuti inenge 1,174 milligrams ye microfibers inosunungurwa kana jekete rekugadzira rasukwa.
Kukanganisa kwemvere dzemakushe kudiki. Simba rinoshandiswa nepolyester yakadzokororwa rakaderedzwa ne85%. Parizvino, 5% chete yePET inodzokororwa. Sezvo polyester iri iyo nhamba yekutanga fiber inoshandiswa mumachira, kuwedzera chikamu ichi kuchave nekukanganisa kukuru mukuderedza simba uye kushandiswa kwemvura.
Kufanana nezvinhu zvakawanda, mabhureki ari kutsvaga nzira dzekudzikisa nharaunda yavo. Muchokwadi, Polartec iri kutungamira maitiro nehurongwa hutsva hwekuita kuti machira avo aunganidzwe 100% adzokororwe zvakare uye biodegradable.
Wool inogadzirwawo kubva kune zvimwe zvinhu zvakasikwa, senge donje uye hemp. Vanoramba vaine maitiro akafanana nemvere dzemagetsi nemvere dzemakwai, asi zvisingakuvadzi. Nekunyanya kutarisisa hupfumi hwedenderedzwa, zvinomera-zvakavakirwa uye zvakagadziridzwa zvinhu zvinonyanya kushandiswa kugadzira makushe.
Nguva yekutumira: Oct-14-2021