Iwo meseji anounzwa nevatengi ane ruzha uye akajeka: munyika yepashure-denda, kunyaradza uye kuita ndizvo zvavanotsvaga. Vagadziri vemicheka vakanzwa kudanwa uku uye vari kudaira kune zvakasiyana siyana uye zvigadzirwa kuti zvizadzise zvinodiwa izvi.
Kwemakumi emakore, machira epamusoro-soro anga ari chinhu chakakosha mumitambo uye zvipfeko zvekunze, asi iye zvino zvigadzirwa zvese kubva kumajaketi emitambo yevarume kusvika kumapfekero evakadzi ari kushandisa machira ane akatevedzana ehunyanzvi maitiro: kunyorova, kunhuhwirira, kutonhora, nezvimwe.
Mumwe wevatungamiri mumagumo emusika uyu ndiSchoeller, kambani yeSwitzerland inotangira muna 1868. Stephen Kerns, purezidhendi weSchoeller USA, akataura kuti vatengi vemazuva ano vari kutsvaga zvipfeko zvinogona kuita zvakawanda zvinodiwa.
"Vanoda kuita zvakanaka, uye vanodawo kuita zvakasiyana," akadaro. "Zvigadzirwa zvekunze zvakaendako nguva pfupi yapfuura, asi ikozvino tava kuona kudiwa kwe [mamwe marudzi embatya dzechinyakare]." Kunyange zvazvo Schoeller "anga achibata nemhando dzepamuganhu dzakadai seBonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers naRalph Lauren," Akati iyi "mutambo wekufamba" mutsva unobva mumitambo uye kutandara uri kuunza kufarira kwakawanda kumachira ane hunyanzvi hunhu.
Muna Chikumi, Schoeller akatanga akati wandei mavhezheni ezvigadzirwa zvake muchirimo cha2023, kusanganisira Dryskin, inova nzira mbiri yakatambanudzwa jira rakagadzirwa nerecycled polyester uye Ecorepel Bio tekinoroji. Inogona kutakura unyoro uye kuramba abrasion. Inogona kushandiswa kumitambo uye Hupenyu zvipfeko.
Sekureva kwekambani, kambani yakagadziridza Schoeller Shape yayo, jira remusanganiswa wedonje rakagadzirwa kubva kune yakadzokororwa polyamide inoshanda zvakaenzana pamakosi egorofu nemigwagwa yemuguta. Iyo ine maviri-toni mhedzisiro inoyeuchidza yekare denim uye 3XDry Bio tekinoroji. Pamusoro pezvo, kune zvakare jira rakapfava ripstop, rakagadzirirwa bhurugwa rakagadzirwazve polyamide, rakagadzirwa neEcorepel Bio tekinoroji, ine mwero wakakwira wemvura uye kusamira kwemavara, PFC-isina, uye yakavakirwa pazvinogoneka kugadzirwa.
"Unogona kushandisa machira aya muzasi, kumusoro uye jaketi," akadaro Kerns. "Unogona kubatwa nedutu rejecha, uye zvimedu hazvirambire pazviri."
Kerns akataura kuti vanhu vazhinji vakaona shanduko yehukuru nekuda kwekuchinja kwemararamiro akakonzerwa nedenda, saka uyu "mukana wakakura wewadhiropu" wezvipfeko zvinogona kutambanudzwa pasina kupa runako.
Alexa Raab, mukuru weSorona wepasi rose branding uye kutaurirana, akabvuma kuti Sorona ndeye bio-yakavakirwa yakakwira-inoshanda polymer kubva kuDuPont, yakagadzirwa kubva ku37% inovandudzwa yechirimwa zvigadzirwa. Iro jira rakagadzirwa neSorona rine elasticity inogara kwenguva refu uye inotsiva spandex. Izvo zvakasanganiswa nekotoni, makushe, sirika uye mamwe mafiber. Ivo zvakare vane wrinkle kuramba uye chimiro chekudzoreredza zvivakwa, izvo zvinogona kuderedza mabhegi uye mapiritsi, zvichibvumira vatengi kuchengetedza zvipfeko zvavo kwenguva refu.
Izvi zvinoratidza zvakare kutsvaga kwekambani kuchengetedza. Machira akasanganiswa eSorona ari kupihwa chitupa kuburikidza nekambani yeCommon Thread certification chirongwa, chakatangwa gore rapfuura kuti ive nechokwadi chekuti vavanodyidzana navo mufekitori vanosangana neakakosha maitiro ekugadzira machira avo: kusimba kwenguva refu, kudzoreredza chimiro, kutarisira nyore, kupfava uye kufema. Kusvika pari zvino, mafekitori anosvika mazana matatu nemakumi mashanu akapihwa zvitupa.
"Vagadziri veFiber vanogona kushandisa Sorona polymers kugadzira akawanda akasiyana machira anogonesa akasiyana machira kuratidza akasiyana machira, kubva kumachira asingakwenya ekunze kusvika kune akareruka uye anofema ekudzivirira zvigadzirwa, kutambanudza kusingaperi uye kupora, uye ichangobva kutangwa Sorona artificial fur ," Renee Henze, Global Marketing Director weDuPont Biomaterials.
"Tinoona kuti vanhu vanoda mbatya dzakagadzikana, asi zvakare vanoda kuenderana nemakambani ane hunhu uye ane hungwaru anogadzira machira," Raab akawedzera. Sorona yakafambira mberi mumunda wezvigadzirwa zvemumba uye inoshandiswa mumachira. Muna Kukadzi, kambani yakabatana neThindown, yekutanga uye chete 100% pasi jira, vachishandisa zvinhu zvakasanganiswa kupa kudziya, kureruka uye kufema kunoenderana nekupfava kwaSorona, kudonha uye elasticity. Muna Nyamavhuvhu, Puma yakatanga iyo Ramangwana Z 1.2, inova ndiyo yekutanga shangu yenhabvu isina lace ine shinda yeSorona kumusoro.
Kuna Raab, denga harina muganho maererano nemashandisirwo echigadzirwa. "Ndinovimba tinogona kuramba tichiona kushandiswa kweSorona mumitambo, masutu, mbatya dzekushambira nezvimwe," akadaro.
Mutungamiri wePolartec, Steve Layton, achangotanga kufarira Milliken & Co. majuzi muna 1981 seimwe nzira kune makushe. "Kare, takaiswa mumusika wekunze, asi izvo zvatakagadzira pamusoro pegomo zvino zvave kushandiswa nenzira dzakasiyana."
Akataura Dudley Stephens semuenzaniso, chikadzi chakakosha brand chinotarisa pamachira akadzokororwa. Polartec zvakare inoshanda pamwe nemhando dzemafashoni seMoncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, uye Veilance.
Layton akati kumhando idzi, aesthetics inoita basa rakakosha nekuti vari kutsvaga huremu, elastic, kunyorova-kunyorova uye kudziya kwakapfava kwemararamiro avo embatya zvigadzirwa. Imwe yeanonyanya kufarirwa iPower Air, rinova jira rakarukwa rinogona kuputira mweya kuti udziye uye uderedze kubuda kwemicrofiber. Akataura kuti jira iri "rave rakakurumbira." Kunyangwe PowerAir pakutanga yakapa nzvimbo yakati sandara ine bubble chimiro mukati, mamwe mararamiro emhando anotarisira kushandisa iyo yekunze bubble sechinhu chekugadzira. “Saka kuchizvarwa chedu chinotevera, tichashandisa maumbirwo akasiyana ejometri kuigadzira,” vakadaro.
Sustainability zvakare chirongwa chinoenderera mberi chePolartec. Muna Chikunguru, kambani yakataura kuti yakabvisa PFAS (perfluoroalkyl uye polyfluoroalkyl zvinhu) muDWR (yakasimba mvura inodzinga) kurapwa kweyepamusoro-inoshanda machira akateedzana. PFAS ikemikari yakagadzirwa nemunhu isingaori, inogona kuramba ichikuvadza nharaunda nemuviri wemunhu.
"Mune ramangwana, tichaisa simba rakawanda kuchengetedza kushanda kwakanaka tichifunga patsva mafibhi atinoshandisa kuti awedzere bio-based," akadaro Leiden. "Kuwana kurapwa kusiri kwePFAS mumutsetse wedu wechigadzirwa chinhu chakakosha mukuzvipira kwedu mukugadzira machira epamusoro-soro."
Mutevedzeri weMutungamiriri weUnifi Global Key Account, Chad Bolick akati kambani iyi Repreve yakadzokororwa kuita polyester fiber inosangana nezvinodiwa zvekunyaradza, kuita uye kusimba, uye inogona kushandiswa mumhando dzakasiyana dzezvigadzirwa kubva kuzvipfeko neshangu kusvika kune zvigadzirwa zvemumba. Akataura kuti zvakare "inotsiva yakananga virgin polyester."
"Zvigadzirwa zvakagadzirwa neRepreve zvine hunhu hwakafanana uye hunhu hwekuita sezvigadzirwa zvinogadzirwa nepolyester isina kudzokororwa-zvakapfava zvakaenzana uye zvakagadzikana, uye zvimiro zvakafanana zvinogona kuwedzerwa, senge kutambanudza, kutonga kwehunyoro, kutonga kwekupisa, kudzivirira mvura, nezvimwe. ,” Bolik akatsanangura. Pamusoro pezvo, yakaderedza kushandiswa kwesimba nezvikamu makumi mana nezvishanu kubva muzana, kushandiswa kwemvura nechikamu chinosvika makumi maviri kubva muzana, uye kuburitswa kwegasi regreenhouse neinopfuura 30%.
Unifi inewo zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvakatsaurirwa kumusika wekuita, zvinosanganisira ChillSense, inova tekinoroji nyowani inobvumira jira kuendesa kupisa kubva mumuviri nekukurumidza kana yakadzikwa nefiber, ichigadzira kunzwa kwekutonhorera. Imwe yacho iTruTemp365, inoshanda pamazuva anodziya kuti ibvise hunyoro kubva mumuviri uye inopa insulation pamazuva anotonhora.
"Vatengi vanoramba vachida kuti zvigadzirwa zvavanotenga zvive nemaitiro akawanda ekuita uku vachichengetedza nyaradzo," akadaro. "Asi ivo vanodawo kuenderera mberi vachivandudza mashandiro. Vatengi chikamu chenyika yakabatana zvakanyanya. Vari kuwedzera kuziva nezvekutenderera kwepurasitiki mumakungwa edu, uye vanonzwisisa kuti zviwanikwa zvedu zviri kupera, saka, Vanoziva zvakanyanya kukosha kwekuchengetedza nharaunda kune zvizvarwa zvinotevera. Vatengi vedu vanonzwisisa kuti vatengi vanoda kuti vave chikamu chemhinduro iyi. "
Asi haingori mafivha ekugadzira ari kugara achishanduka kuti asangane nekukura kuri kuda kwevatengi uye kusimba. Stuart McCullough, maneja director weThe Woolmark Company, anonongedza kune "zvakanakira" zveMerino wool, iyo inopa nyaradzo nekuita.
"Vatengi nhasi vanotsvaga mhando nekuvimbika uye kuzvipira kune zvakatipoteredza. Merino wool haingori chinhu chakasarudzika chemugadziri wemafashoni, asiwo inovandudza ecological mhinduro kune akawanda-anoshanda emazuva ese fashoni uye zvipfeko zvemitambo. Kubva pakatanga kubuda kweCCIDID-19, kudiwa kweVatengi zvembatya dzepamba nembatya dzevafambi kuri kuramba kuchiwedzera,” akadaro McCullough.
Akawedzera kuti pakutanga kwedenda, merino wool zvipfeko zvekumba zvakawedzera kufarirwa sezvo vanhu vaishanda kubva kumba. Ikozvino vabuda zvakare, kupfeka mvere dzevafambi, kuvachengeta kure nezvifambiso zvevoruzhinji, kufamba, kumhanya kana kuchovha bhasikoro kuenda kubasa, kwaratidzawo mukurumbira.
Akataura kuti kuti atore mukana weizvi, timu yehunyanzvi yeWoolmark iri kushandirapamwe nemhando huru muminda yeshangu nembatya kuti iwedzere kushandiswa kwemafiber mushangu dzekushanda, senge APL's technical knitted running shangu. Knitwear dhizaini kambani Studio Eva x Carola nguva pfupi yadarika yakatanga nhevedzano yezvipfeko zvevakadzi zvebhasikoro, vachishandisa tekinoroji, isina musono merino wool, vachishandisa Südwolle Group merino wool shinda yakagadzirwa paSantoni yekuruka michina.
Achitarisa kumberi, McCullough akati anotenda kuti kudiwa kwemasystem akasimba ndiko kuchave simba rekufambisa mune ramangwana.
"Maindasitiri emachira nemafashoni ari pasi pekumanikidzwa kuti achinje kune mamwe masisitimu akasimba," akadaro. “Izvi zvinonetsa zvinoda mabhurendi nevagadziri kuti vatarisezve hurongwa hwavo hwezvinhu uye vasarudze mafiibhi asina kukonzeresa nharaunda. Wool yeAustralia ine cyclical muzvisikwa uye inopa mhinduro yekusimudzira machira. "
Nguva yekutumira: Oct-21-2021