Muhupenyu hwezuva nezuva, isu tinogara tichinzwa kuti iyi ndeye plain weave, iyi twill weave, iyi satin weave, iyi jacquard weave zvichingodaro. Asi kutaura zvazviri, vanhu vakawanda vari kurasika pashure pokuiteerera. Chii chakanaka pazviri? Nhasi, ngatitaure nezve hunhu uye kuzivikanwa kwemachira matatu aya.
1.Plain weave, twill weave, uye satin ndezvechimiro chejira
Iyo inonzi plain weave, twill weave ne satin weave (satin) zvinoreva maumbirwo ejira. Pakuumbwa kwega, zvitatu izvi hazvina kunaka kana kuipa, asi chimwe nechimwe chine hunhu hwayo nekuda kwekusiyana kwechimiro.
(1)Plain Fab
Iri izwi rinowanzoreva plain weave donje jira rezvakasiyana siyana. Izvi zvinosanganisira plain weave uye plain weave variable weave, machira akasiyana-siyana edonje akarukwa ane zvirevo zvakasiyana uye masitaera. Zvakadai se: jira rakaomarara, jira repakati, jira rakanaka, gauze poplin, hafu-shinda poplin, yakazara-line poplin, hemp shinda uye brushed plain cloth, etc. Kune marudzi makumi matanhatu neshanu pamwe chete.
Irwo shinda neshinda dzakarukwa dzakarukwa dzimwe dzese. Magadzirirwo ejira akasimba, anokwenya, uye pamusoro pacho pakatsetseka. Kazhinji, machira ekushongedza epamusoro anogadzirwa nemucheka wakajeka weave.
Jira rakarukwa rine mapoinzi akawanda anorukwa, magadzirirwo akasimba, nzvimbo yakatsetseka, chimiro chakafanana kumberi nekumashure, chakareruka uye chakatetepa, uye mhepo iri nani. Mamiriro akaita plain weave ndiwo anoratidza kuderera kwayo. Kazhinji kutaura, mutengo wejira rakarukwa wakaderera. Asi kunewo machira mashoma akarukwa anodhura zvakanyanya, semamwe machira emhando yepamusoro.
(2)Twill Fabric
Izwi rakajairwa remachira edonje ane zvirevo zvakasiyana zvetill weave, kusanganisira twill weave uye twill weave shanduko, uye akasiyana machira edonje ane maratidziro akasiyana uye masitaera. Zvakadai se: shinda yeshinda, shinda serge, hafu-mutsara serge, shinda gabardine, hafu-mutsara gabardine, shinda khaki, hafu-mutsara khaki, yakazara-mutsara khaki, brushed twill, nezvimwewo, huwandu hwemhando makumi mana nemana.
Mumucheka wetill, wap uye weft zvinorukwa kanenge shinda mbiri, kureva, 2/1 kana 3/1. Kuwedzera warp uye weft interweaving points kuti uchinje jira remachira rinodaidzwa pamwe chete semachira e twill. Chimiro chejira remhando iyi ndechekuti yakakura uye ine hutatu hwakasimba hwematatu. Nhamba yekuverenga ndeye 40, 60, nezvimwewo.
(3)Mucheka weSatin
Iri izwi rakajairwa kune akasiyana zvirevo zve satin weave donje jira. Izvi zvinosanganisira akasiyana satin weave uye satin weave, akasiyana siyana uye masitaera esatin weave.
The warp ne weft zvinorukwa kanenge shinda nhatu dzega dzega. Pakati pemachira, kuwanda ndiko kwakakwirira uye kwakakora, uye jira rejira rakapfava, rakapfava, uye rizere nekupenya, asi mutengo wechigadzirwa wakakwira, saka mutengo uchave wakadhura.
Kuruka kwesatin kwakaoma, uye imwe chete yeshinda yewap uye weft inovhara pamusoro muchimiro chehurefu hunoyangarara. Warp satin inovhara pamusoro inonzi warp satin; iyo weft inoyangarara pamusoro pepamusoro inonzi weft satin. Iyo yakareba yakayangarara yakareba inoita kuti pamusoro pejira ive nekupenya kuri nani uye zviri nyore kuratidza chiedza. Nokudaro, kana iwe ukanyatsotarisa pamucheka wekotoni satin, iwe uchanzwa kupera kusina simba.
Kana iyo filament shinda ine kupenya kuri nani ichishandiswa seyayangarara refu shinda, kupenya kwejira uye kupenya kuchiedza kuchave kwakakurumbira. Semuenzaniso, jira resilika jacquard rine silky inopenya. Tambo refu dzakayangarara mu satin weave dzinowanzo pwanyika, kupeperetswa kana kuti shinda dzinonhongwa. Nokudaro, kusimba kwemhando iyi yemucheka yakaderera kupfuura yemucheka wakajeka uye twill. Iro jira rine shinda yakafanana kuverenga ine satin yakakwira density uye yakakora, uye mutengo wakakwira zvakare. Kuruka (Plain weave), twill weave, uye satin ndidzo nzira nhatu dzinonyanya kukosha dzekuruka shinda dzewap nedze weft. Hapana mutsauko wakananga pakati pezvakanaka nezvakaipa, asi maererano nehunyanzvi, satin ndeyechokwadi yakanakisa machira ekotoni akachena, uye twill inogamuchirwa zvakanyanya nemhuri zhinji.
Yakanga yakakurumbira muEurope mazana emakore apfuura, uye jacquard jira rembatya rave rekare kumhuri yehumambo uye vanokudzwa kuratidza chiremerera uye kunaka. Nhasi, maitiro akanaka uye machira anoyevedza ave pachena ave maitiro epamusoro-ekupedzisira machira epamba. Jira rejira rejacquard rinoshandura warp uye weft weave panguva yekurukwa kuti riite pateni, kuverenga kweshinda kwakanaka, uye zvinodiwa pamidziyo yembatya zvakakwirisa zvakanyanya. Iyo yarn uye weft shinda yejacquard jira inorukana uye inochinjika kuita mapatani akasiyana. Mamiriro acho akapfava, akapfava uye akatsetseka, ane kutsvedzerera kwakanaka, drape uye mhepo inopindirana, uye yakakwirira ruvara kukurumidza.
Nguva yekutumira: Zvita-09-2022