Kutanga, Rega ndikubvunze mubvunzo: sutu ine zvikamu zviviri: jira uye zvishongedzo?
Kwete, mhinduro haina kururama.Sutu inoumbwa nezvikamu zvitatu: jira, zvishongedzo uye lining.
Mucheka uye zvishongedzo zvakakosha zvikuru, asi hutano hwe sutu hunoenderana nemucheka, nokuti inobatanidza zvinhu zviviri zvakasiyana zvachose ductile zvinhu, jira uye zvishandiso.
Iyo yakachipa yakachipa, inokodzera hembe nzira ndeye kushandisa anonamira lining, kunyangwe ese akagadzirwa nemaoko, asi kushandisa anonamira lining sutu inogona kunge ichiri isingasviki 2000 yuan inotevera, yakaderera mwero weadhesive lining sutu kuburikidza nenguva, uchaona kuti sutu yemicheka uye zvishongedzo hazvichakodzeri, zvichikwevera kune imwe nzira, zvinoita sekuparadzaniswa kwekutamba.
Mushonga wakanaka, semuenzaniso, sutu dzebhizinesi dzakagadzirwa neYUNAI dzinofanirwa kugadzirwa nemvere dzemakwai, rineni uye maneja ebhiza. Muchidimbu, zvinhu zvakasikwa zvinodiwa. Chinangwa ndechekubatsira jira resutu uye zvishongedzo kuti zvifambe-famba zvishoma zvichivabatsira kugadzirisa.
Chechipiri chechipiri: kunyange zvazvo hutano hwezvinhu zvinoshandiswa hunokonzerwa nezvinhu zvakawanda, mutengo wejira ikozvino unoenderana zvikuru nenzvimbo yakabva. Mutengo wemicheka yemumba unosiyana zvakanyanya kubva kune machira anotengeswa kunze kwenyika, ayo anonyanya kubva kuItaly neBritain.
Machira esutu epamusoro pasi rose anosanganisira: Ermenegildo Zegna , LORO PIANA ,VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO ,REDA ,CERRUTI 1881 , YUNAI, rinova hofori yemvere dzemuItaly;ndiwo mucherechedzo wemhando yemvere dzemakushe.CHARLES CLAYTON, mana anotevera ndeechembere muBritain vanonyanya kukosha vagadziri vemvere. Mhando dzepamusoro dzemachira ehembe ndedzeBritain THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO zvichingodaro. Chitoro chetsika chine marudzi anopfuura mashoma emasutu nemachira ehembe ichitoro chehunyanzvi.
Kazhinji, mafekitori aya ane zvakaomesesa zvinodiwa pamaitiro ehunyanzvi ezvitoro zvetsika. Pavanenge vasvika pazviyero zvinowirirana ndivo vachapa mvumo yekushandiswa kwemachira avo uye zviratidzo zvekutengesa. Pamusoro pezvo, zvisinei kuti unoshandisa machira epamba kana kunze kwenyika, izvo zvinongedzo ndezvemvere dzemakwai, hongu, pachava nezvimwe zvinongedzo, senge cashmere. , asi machira emhando yepamusoro anogadzirwa nemachira echisikigo pane zvekugadzira zvinhu, asi haugone kuita zvakanyanya kuomesesa machira epamba.
1. Mucheka wakachena wakashata
Mucheka wemvere unoreva jira rakagadzirwa nemvere dzemakwai kana mvere uye polyester, viscose, acrylic, nezvimwe.
Worsted wool ijira rembatya repamusoro-giredhi rakagadzirwa nemvere dzemakwai dzakachena uye dzakachena, dzinogona kusanganiswa nechimwe chikamu chemvere dzemakushe faibha kana imwe faibha yechisikigo, uye inogadziriswa nemichina yekubatanidza, kusanganisa, kunyora, kuruka, kuruka, kudhaya uye kupedza. kwenguva zhinji.
Iine kuchinjika kwakanaka kwekuti mhuka yemhuka nzvimbo ine yakasarudzika, bonde rakapfava, rakasiyana downy bonde uye crape inodzivisa bonde, kana ichitora unyoro kana dikita mhembwe kuti irambe ichidziya bonde.
Nguo dzakagadzirirwa dzakagadzirwa nemucheka wakaisvonaka wemvere dzinogara uye hazvizoremara kwenguva yakareba. Ivo vanonyanya kusimba nekuda kwekushaikwa kwe aurora. Iwo akatsetseka uye akatsetseka mukugadzirwa, anoyevedza muchitarisiko, akatsetseka uye akatsetseka, akazara mukubata, classic muchimiro, akapfava uye echisikigo mukupenya uye zvichingodaro.
Izvo zvinonzi zvakashata uye mvere dzemakwai, dzakaedza kutsanangura, kubva paAngle yeviri imwe iri pamusoro pe fiber, imwe ndeyekuruka, fiber spinning iri 32 uye pamusoro pe 40, kuverenga fiber yezvakatsetseka, zvishoma majoini, zvakasikwa yakakwirira density, yakanaka abrasion kuramba, yakanaka kunyaradza, imwe ndeye weave, yakashata jira mune yakarukwa nemuchina wejira rakanaka, kudzivirira kutsemuka kwefiber, dense dhigirii yakakwira, jira remvere dzemakwai, majoini, nyore kuputsika, zvisikwa kupfeka kuramba musiyano, density haina kunaka.
Machira akachena akawomeswa machira anonyanya kutetepa, ane pamusoro wakatsetseka uye mitsetse yakajeka.
Muviri wakatsetseka, wakapfava uye elastic.
Bata izvo zvinhu mushure mekusunungura, zvakanyanya pasina kupeta, kunyangwe paine zvishoma crease inogona zvakare kunyangarika munguva pfupi pfupi.
Kuzivikanwa kwemucheka wakachena wemvere:
Mucheka wakachena wemvere dzemakwai ane munyoro wechisikigo ruvara uye yakanaka yekupisa mhedzisiro ndiyo yekutanga sarudzo yekugadzira-yepamusoro-giredhi masutu uye overcoat.
Asi iye zvino machira akawanda akafanana nemvere dzemakwai, sekuvandudzwa kwetekinoroji yemucheka, yasvika pamwero wevatengi vakaoma kuziva, asi ruvara, kudziya, kunzwa uye zvichingodaro ishoma pane yakachena machira.
Inotevera inosuma nzira dzakati wandei dzekuziva jira remakushe rakachena, kuitira chirevo chako mukusarudzwa kwembatya nehupfu.
Kutanga, kubata.
Machira akachena emvere dzemakwai anowanzo kunzwa akatsetseka, machira emvere dzemakwai akareba pamwe chete nekunzwa kwebvudzi rakatsetseka, reverse kurira kurira.Uye yakasanganiswa kana yakachena makemikari fiber, mamwe asina kupfava, mamwe akanyanya kupfava uye akasununguka, uye anonamira kunzwa.
Chechipiri, tarisa ruvara.
Muvara wemucheka wakachena wemvere dzakapfava uye wakasikwa, wakajeka uye usingagumi.Mukupesana, kusanganiswa kana kuchena kwemakemikari fiber pamusoro, kana kupenya kwakasviba, kana kuva nemafungiro ekupenya.
Chetatu, tarisa elasticity.
Bata jira racho zvakasimba neruoko, wobva warisunungura pakarepo kuti uone kuti jira rakaita sei. Pure mvere yemucheka rebound rate yakakwirira, inogona kukurumidza kudzorera kune yayo yepakutanga, uye kusanganisa kana makemikari fiber zvigadzirwa, wrinkle resistance is urombo, zvizhinji zve mamwe mavanga akaunyana akajeka, kana kunonoka kupora.
Chechina. Kuzivikanwa kwekupisa.
Tora boka reshinda, shandisa moto, pure wool fiber inonhuhwirira sebvudzi rinopisa, kemikari fiber inonhuwira sepurasitiki inopisa.Iyo yakaoma iyo zvidimbu mushure mekupisa, iyo yakawanda yemakemikari fiber components iripo.
1.Single mudzi kuzivikanwa.
Bvudzi pasi pemaikorosikopu kuona mhuka dzose dzine zvikero, kana ari refu bvudzi machira kureba tora bvudzi rakafanana pamusoro akaradzikwa kashoma achafamba kumusoro kana pasi (kugona unyanzvi ichi anogona kutora bvudzi kubva kuedza kwokutanga), kana iri jira rakajairika, rinobvisa mudzi shinda, cheka 2 cm yendima mbiri mune imwe faibha pasi peruoko rubha ina kana shanu, ivo havangafambi.
2. Wool uye polyester yakasanganiswa jira
Wool blended fabric, kureva cashmere, polyester, spandex, tsuro bvudzi nemamwe mafiibha nemvere dzemakwai dzakasanganiswa machira emucheka. Wool nepolyester yakasanganiswa jira, pasi pezuva, pamusoro pacho ine flash point, jira racho rakachena uye rakaoma, rakanaka elasticity, bata. jira rakasununguka, rinenge risina makwinya.
Warp direction, warp, warp density
- Nhungamiro yehurefu hwejira;
Shinda dzeparutivi dzinonzi shinda dzinodzika;
Nhamba yeshinda dzakarongwa mukati me 1 inch is warp density;
Weft kutungamira, kuzadza uye kuzadza density
- Kutungamira kwejira rejira;
Shinda inodaidzwa kunzi weft, uye nhamba yeshinda mukati meinji ndiyo density ye weft.
Density
- Inoshandiswa kumiririra huwandu hweshinda pahurefu hweyuniti yejira rekuvhara, kazhinji nhamba yeshinda mukati me 1 inch kana 10 centimita. Mitemo yenyika yeChina inotaura kuti nhamba yeshinda mukati me 10 centimeters inoshandiswa kumiririra density, asi mabhizinesi emachira achiri kushandisa nhamba yeshinda mukati me 1 inch kumiririra density.
Semuenzaniso, iyo inowanzoonekwa "45×45/108×58" inoreva 45 weft uye warp warn ane density ye108 uye 58 zvakateerana.
Upamhi
- Iyo hupamhi hunobudirira hwejira inowanzoratidzwa mumasendimita kana masendimita. Izvo zvakajairika ndeye 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, nezvimwewo, izvo zvinonzi nhete, yepakati uye yakafara, zvichiteerana. Micheka yakakwirira kudarika 60 inches yakawedzera-yakafara, inowanzonzi jira rakafara.
Hupamhi hunowanzo cherechedzwa kuseri kwe density. Semuenzaniso, kana jira rinotaurwa mu: 3 rinowedzerwa nehupamhi, richaratidzwa se "45×45/108×58/60" ", kureva upamhi huri 60 inches.
Kurema
- Huremu hwegiremu hwejira kazhinji igiramu rehuremu hwejira mumamita emamita. Huremu hwegiramu chiratidzo chakakosha chehunyanzvi chemicheka yakarukwa, uye huremu hwegiramu hunowanzotorwa sechiratidzo chakakosha chehunyanzvi chemicheka yemvere dzemakwai.
Huremu hwe giremu hwe denim hunowanzo kuratidzwa se "OZ", kureva, huwandu hwehuremu hwemachira payadhi sikweya, senge 7 ounces, gumi nemaviri denim, nezvimwe.
Yarn-dhayi
MuJapan, inonzi "dhayi jira", izvo zvinoreva nzira yekudhaya shinda kana filament uye wozoruka jira neshinda ine mavara. Rudzi urwu rwejira rinonzi "shinda-dhayi jira". Mafekitari anogadzira machira ane dhayi anowanzonzi mafekitari ekudhaya uye ekuruka, akadai sedenim, uye machira ehembe mazhinji ane dhayi.
3. Wool uye viscose yakasanganiswa jira
Kupenya kwakadzikama.
Iyo yakaipisisa inonzwa haina simba, nepo iyo yemvere inonzwa yakasununguka.
Rudzi urwu rwemachira harudiki uye rwakatsvuka kupfuura mvere dzakachena uye mvere dzepolyester, shinda-yakanaka yakasanganiswa jira.
Akachena kemikari fiber weol-sejira rechinyakare viscose, artificial weol fayibha semidziyo yakaita seshinda yemvere dzemakwai, kupenya kusviba, kunzwa kwakapfava, kushaikwa kwekunzwa. nzira inoshanda yekuziva jira reviscose iro simba reshinda rinobviswa mumucheka zviri pachena kuti rakaderera kana ranyorova kupfuura kana raoma.Pamusoro peizvi, jira rakaita semvere dzemakwai rinoomesa nekukora mushure mekunyorova.Nekufambira mberi kwesainzi uye tekinoroji. , kutevedzera mvere dzemakwai muvara, kunzwa, kusimba kwakavewo.
Mhando Huru:
Tsuro bvudzi
Kazhinji, chimwe chikamu chebvudzi retsuro nemvere dzemakwai zvinosanganiswa nekurukwa. Hunhu hwetsuro sweta huri mumafibhi ayo akatsetseka, akatsetseka uye waxy kunzwa, akapfava uye akapfava pamusoro pekurara, uye yakanaka fluffiness. Iyo yakasununguka uye yakasikwa kupfeka, uye nap iri pakati pepamusoro iri nyore kudonha.
Kana iyo nzira yekutanga kugadzira juzi uyezve dhayi (kureva kuruka uye ipapo dhayi) yakagamuchirwa, ruvara uye kupenya kuchava kwakanyanya kuchena uye kwakanaka, ine rakasiyana latice, kunyanya yakakodzera zvipfeko zvekunze zvevakadzi vechidiki.
Kemikari fiber bvudzi
Chinhu chinowanzoitika chezvipfeko ndiko kureruka kwayo.
Ita senge acrylic unshirt, ruka ne acrylic shinda yakawanda kazhinji, mvere dzayo chimiro chinonzwa chakasimba, ruvara uye kupenya, kunaka kwechinhu kwakapfava kupfava, mwando kudzorera mwero ndeye 0-4.5% chete, fiber break simba rakareba kupfuura mvere dzemakwai, hazvizoiti zvipfukuto, asi kuchinjika kwayo kunodzoreredzwa mwero yakaderera pane makushe, chengetedza bonde rinodziya zvishoma pane yakachena wool juzi, mutengo wakachipa, asi nyore pilling, wakakodzera zvipfeko zvevana.
Munguva pfupi yapfuura, musika wepasi rose kune acrylic, polyamide faibha yakasanganiswa shinda, yakagadziridzwa acrylic kutevedzera mohair shinda, yayo kuita majuzi anogona kufananidzwa neakasikwa tsuro bvudzi, mohair zvipfeko.
Mvere dzemhuka dzakasanganiswa nemakemikari fiber
Iine "maitiro anowirirana" emhando dzakasiyana dzebvudzi dzemhuka uye makemikari fiber, uye chitarisiko chayo chine mvere, simba rekurebesa rinovandudzwa, uye mutengo wejuzi unoderedzwa. Icho chigadzirwa chakanaka uye chisingadhuri.
Asi mujuzi rakasanganiswa, pane dambudziko rekuti dhayi haina kunaka nekuda kwekusiyana kwekudhaya uye kugona kutora ruvara kwemhando dzakasiyana dzefiber.
4. Artificial fiber wool-like material
MaBritish ndivo vaive vekutanga kudzidza kutorwa kweprotein kubva muglue yemhuka kugadzira artificial protein fibers.
Muna 1935, vamwe vanhu muItaly vakaedza kubvisa chizi mumukaka kuti vagadzire mvere dzemakwai.
Kubva ipapo, dzimwe nyika dzakabudirira mukugadzira faibha kubva kuprotein yesoyabhinzi neprotein yenzungu.
Nekuda kwezvinetso nekushandiswa uye mutengo wekugadzira wefiber dzakadaro, kugadzirwa kushoma.
YUNAI dim, kushaikwa kwekunzwa kwakadzikama, nekuda kwekusagadzikana kwakashata, zviri nyore kuoneka zou Fold, uye hazvisi nyore kunyangarika.
Kune marudzi maviri emafibhi akaitwa nevanhu: regenerated faibha uye kemikari fiber. Regenerated fiber ndiyo viscose fiber yakagadzirwa nematanda uye uswa fiber nemakemikari kugadzirisa.
Chemical fiber is a synthetic fiber yakagadzirwa nepetroleum, gasi rechisikigo, marasha uye zvigadzirwa zvekurima.
Zvinoenderana nechimiro uye kushandiswa kweshinda dzakagadzirwa nevanhu, kune marudzi matatu: rayon, rayon uye makushe.
Mhando dzakakosha dzine viscose fiber, acetate fiber, copper ammonia fiber uye zvichingodaro.
Regenerated fiber inogona kukamurwa kuita regenerated cellulose fiber, cellulose ester fiber, protein fiber uye mamwe echisikigo polymer fiber.
Zvimiro zvayo zvichienzaniswa nemakemikari fibers, staple fibers.
Iyo yakagadzirwa nevanhu fiber jira ndeyekunongedza viscose fiber filament uye staple fiber jira, iro rakagadzirwa nevanhu donje rinozivikanwa nevanhu, rayon nezvimwe.
Uye zvakare, inosanganisirawo chikamu cheyakapfuma fiber jira uye yepakati kureba fiber jira pakati pefilament uye staple.
Nokudaro, maitiro emucheka wefiber yemunhu anonyanya kugadziriswa nehupfumi hweviscose fibers.
Machira eRayon nerayon akapfava kukubata, anofema uye akasununguka kupfeka, uye ane ruvara rwakajeka.
Mucheka wefiber yakagadzirwa nemunhu ane hygroscopicity yakanaka, uye hygroscopicity ndiyo yakanakisisa mumakemikari fiber.Asi simba rayo remvura yakaderera zvikuru, inenge 50% yesimba rakaoma chete, uye shrinkage yejira yakakura, saka inofanira kuderera mberi. asati acheka zvaive nani.
Mucheka we viscose wakajairwa une hunhu hwekudonhera zvakanaka, kusaomarara kusimba, kusimba uye kushomeka, saka chipfeko chayo hachina kuchengetedzeka kwechimiro uye chinowanzoita kuunyana.
Viscose faibha jira rine asidhi yakanaka uye alkali kuramba, kusamira kwezuva uye kumwe kuramba zvinodhaka.
5.Pure chemikemikari fiber wool-like material
Kazhinji, synthetic fiber inoshandiswa sechinhu chikuru, faibha yekugadzira kana sirika ine ruvara seyaya tambo, uye imwe novel synthetic fiber inoshandiswa sechinhu chikuru, chine jira rakakodzera chimiro. Rudzi urwu rwemucheka rune marudzi maviri emushenjere-se, maitiro echisikigo.
Iine maitiro echisikigo hunhu hwefiber yechisikigo.
Mucheka unopenya muvara, wakanaka mukupenya, crisp uye elastic, unokodzera veruzhinji.
Kemikari fiber wool, iyo yakajairika hunhu hwezvipfeko yakareruka.
Ita senge acrylic unshirt, ruka ne acrylic shinda yakawanda kazhinji, mvere dzayo chimiro chinonzwa chakasimba, ruvara uye kupenya, kunaka kwechinhu kwakapfava kupfava, mwando kudzorera mwero ndeye 0-4.5% chete, fiber break simba rakareba kupfuura mvere dzemakwai, hazvizoiti zvipfukuto, asi kuchinjika kwayo kunodzoreredzwa mwero yakaderera pane makushe, chengetedza bonde rinodziya zvishoma pane yakachena wool juzi, mutengo wakachipa, asi nyore pilling, wakakodzera zvipfeko zvevana.
Munguva pfupi yapfuura, musika wepasirese kune acrylic, poly-amide faibha yakasanganiswa shinda, yakagadziridzwa acrylic kutevedzera mohair shinda, yayo muhembe inogona kufananidzwa neakasikwa tsuro bvudzi, mohair zvipfeko.
Mvere dzemhuka uye makemikari fiber yakasanganiswa mvere, ine akasiyana mvere dzemhuka uye kemikari fiber "inopindirana maitiro", kutaridzika kwayo kune mvere dzemvere, simba rerefu rinovandudzwa, kuderedza mutengo wejuzi, yakachipa uye yakanaka zvigadzirwa.
Asi mujuzi rakasanganiswa, pane dambudziko rekuti mhando dzakasiyana dzefiber dzine dhayi dzakasiyana uye kugona kutora ruvara, izvo zvinoita kuti kudhaya kusave kwakanaka.
Siyanisa pakati pemakemikari fiber weol-senge zvinhu uye yakachena shinda yemvere:
Mucheka wakaita semakushe anonyanya kugadzirwa nemakemikari faibha, uye viscose faibha yakawanda, senge polyester/viscose yepakati mvere dzemakushe, polyester yakachena uye zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvakaita semakushe.
Kutanga, kupenya kwakasiyana.
Jira rakachena remvere kazhinji rakapfava uye rechisikigo, riine ruvara rusina kunaka. Kemikari faibha yekutevedzera shinda yemvere yakapfuma muvara uye yakajeka. Kana ukanyatsotarisa pasi pezuva, unowanzoona nzvimbo dzakajeka uye dzinopenya dzechiedza.
Iyi poindi yekutevedzera mvere inotonhorera kuti ifanane nemucheka wemvere zvakare inogona kusanzwisisika.
Chechipiri, kunzwa uye elasticity zvakasiyana.
Machira eshinda akachena anonzwa akapfava, akapfava zvishoma, bhonzo remuviri, akaunyana zvishoma asi asina kuoma, akapfava asi asina kutwasuka;
Nepo polyester, mvere-yakafanana nechitarisiko, asi yakapfava uye yakatsetseka inonzwa, hapana bhonzo remuviri, kuunyana zvakanyanya, kunonoka kudzoka.
Chechitatu, pisa sirika mushure mekudhirowa.
Yakachena shinda yeshinda yeshinda inogona kuoneka mushure mekusaenzana kweshinda yeshinda, kureba kwakasiyana, yakasikwa curl, uye viscose kutevedzera mvere dzemachira faibha kureba, ukobvu yunifomu inowirirana.
Mushure mokupisa, mushure mokunge moto uchipisa zvishoma nezvishoma, uchisiya moto unoramba uchipisa, bvudzi rinofambidzana nekunhuhwirira, madota, dema crispy cube, kumonyorora kureva muupfu kune micheka yakachena yemvere, uye pedyo nemoto uri kupfuta, kupisa nokukurumidza. , yellow flame, clamp burn, madota ane nyore kubhururuka chiedza grey, machena uye anosiya zvakaoma kupwanya bundu repolyester / viscose.
Inosiyawo bundu dema mushure mekutsva.
Kubva pamaviri kusvika maviri kana anopfuura ezvigadzirwa kana machira akasanganiswa akarukwa: makushe / viscose, makushe / polyester, makushe / sirika, makushe / viscose / spandex, nezvimwewo, haingodi chete kubata zvakasimba mhando dzakasiyana dzefiber morphology uye zvivakwa, uye nzira yekushandisa yakawanda fiber identification, kubva pakutarisa zvakare, kupisa kupisa kusvika pakuedzwa mushure mekuedzwa, inogona kusvika kumagumo zvakachengeteka.
6.Mercerized wool
Mercerizing weol zvinhu zvakajairika mvere dzemakwai mushure mekurapa kemikari uye kurapwa kwemuviri, iyo mvere dzemakwai fiber scale kuparadzwa, uye kuburikidza nemakemikari test agent, ita kuti mvere dzive dzakatsetseka, dzinopenya, shrinkproof kana dzichiwachwa, dzakakodzera zvipfeko zvemuchato.
Mercerizing wool ndiko kurapwa kwezvigadzirwa zvemakushe mune mercerizing maitiro ekudhaya mvere uye kupedza.
Mvere dzinoda kucheneswa neBasolan DC kana kubatwa neprotease kuti dziparadze zviyero zvemvere dzemvere uye kuderedza mutsauko pakati peiyo friction coefficient panguva yekuenda mberi nekudzoka kumashure kwemvere. Mushure mekurapa, kupenya kwemvere kunowedzerwa, kunowanzozivikanwa semercerized wool.
Mvere dzemvere dzemakwai dzinogona kurukwa kubva pashinda yakachena kana kusanganiswa.
Zvinhu zvikuru ndezvokuti anti-shrinkage, muchina - unowachwa, anti-pilling.
Mercerized wool tekinoroji yakatanga pakati pemakore ekuma1990, inyowani yekudhaya uye yekupedzisa tekinoroji yakagadzirwa pahwaro hwechinyakare chlorination uye shrinkage kudzivirira tekinoroji yemvere dzemakwai.
Mucheka wemvere unobatwa une cashmere inonzwa uye silky luster.
Nekuda kwehunhu uhu, zvigadzirwa zvemvere dzemakushe zvakakurumidza kuve zvakakurumbira.
Kusvika ikozvino, mercerized wool yave yakakurumbira zvikuru, chikamu chemusika chakapfuura huwandu hwemvere dzemakwai.
Kune akasiyana pfungwa dzemakushe emercerized kuChina nedzimwe nyika pasirese. KuChina, makushe akabviswa phosphorus anonzi mercerized wool, ukuwo makwai epasi rese achiputirwa nemhepo inopisa, uye akatambanudzwa ne30% ~ 50%. Zvadaro, mushure mokutonhodzwa nemvura inotonhora uye kuumbwa, makwai akareba uye akatetepa anonzi mercerized wool.
7.Wool
Wool inowanzonzi shinda yeshinda yeshinda.
Wool fiber iprotein molecules coalesced, kutaridzika kweiyo yakasarudzika layer yeyakaomesesa horny scale structure, yakavharwa zvakasimba, iyo flake chimiro idiki kwazvo, iyo inobatsira ndeyekudzivirira tsvina mufiber, saka, zvipfeko zvemvere hazvisi nyore kusvibiswa.
Dry cleaners vanowanzosangana nemicheka yakasiyana-siyana yakasiyana-siyana pavanenge vachiwachira, uye zvipfeko zvemvere zvinowanzoitikawo.
Chikonzero chinoita kuti makushe abudise chiedza chakajeka ndeichi:
(1) Hurukuro hwechikero chenyanga pamusoro peshinda yemvere dzakapfekwa zvishoma;
(2) Guruva netsvina zvinokwesha zvishoma uye zvinonamira kune groove, kuitira kuti pamusoro pejira rive rakatsetseka, zvichikonzera kudzokorora kwemwenje nguva dzose, zvichikonzera kupenya kwakajeka.
Nzira dzekubvisa chiedza:
(1) Chingwa chinogona kumonwa kuva furawa chowaridzwa muchiedza, simbi ichienda kusimbi;
(2) Pickling: Soak acetic acid solution ine 3-5% uye tembiricha ye50 ℃ kwemaminitsi 3-5, wozogeza nemvura yakachena.
White vhiniga inogonawo kushandiswa.
(3) Geza nebhurasho paunenge uchiwacha.
Fiber is a natural faibha, mhedzisiro yembeu dzezvirimwa, madzinde uye mashizha ane akawanda emakemikari faibha haina kunaka, yakawanda hydrophilic gene mudonje faibha, hygroscopicity yakanaka, kupfeka dikita kunyura, mhepo kupera, kugadzikana, uye hemp uye inotonhorera inotonhorera. , kupfava, kusanamatira kune hunhu hweiyo yakawanda inoshandiswa muindasitiri yenguo, inogamuchirwa nemutengi.
Zvakanakira: yakapfava uye elastic kuruoko, yakapfava uye yechisikigo kupenya, yakagadzikana uye yakanaka kupfeka, yepamusoro-giredhi kunzwa, yakanaka kunyorova kunyorova, isiri nyore kupisa conduction, yakanaka kuchengetedza kupisa, crease kuramba, kunyanya mushure mekugadzirisa zvipfeko uye ironing zvirinani pleat. kuumba uye chipfeko chekudzivirira chimiro;
Cherechedza: Tembiricha yekuwachisa haifanire kunge yakanyanya kukwirisa, usakwesha kana wring kudzivirira kubuda kwezuva.
Kudzvanya poindi: Kusaina kwakanyorova, kuaina zvinhu zvaoma kubva kune rimwe divi.
Zvakashata: alkali - inopikisa, inopera, nyore kukwinya.
8. Mucheka wemvere-polyester
Wool-polyester fabric (wool-polyester) : Mucheka wakagadzirwa kubva kumvere dzemakwai uye polyester yakasanganiswa yarns, rudzi rwakajairika rwemachira akasanganiswa neshinda.
Mucheka wakagadzirwa kubva kumvere dzemakwai uye polyester yakasanganiswa shinda.
Chiyero chakajairwa chemvere-polyester kusanganisa ndeye 45∶55, iyo isingagone chete kuchengetedza mukana wemvere, asiwo inopa kutamba kwakazara kune mukana wepolyester.
Anenge ese machira akakasharara uye akashata ane anowirirana wool-polyester musanganiswa siyana.
Pakati pawo jira rakashata-polyester rakatetepa rine maruva jira rinodaidzwawo kuti kutonhorera, rinowanzozivikanwa semakushe anonyatso kutonhorera, ndiro rinonyanya ratidziro yemvere-polyester yekusanganisa maitiro eimwe yemachira.
Kune kaviri-ply warp uye weft, double-ply warp, single-ply weft uye single-ply warp uye weft.
Kazhinji ne50 ~ 70 echirume tambo mbiri, machira matete ane 100 ~ 120 echirume tambo mbiri.
Huremu hwejira hunosvika 170 ~ 190 g/m2.
Kuenzaniswa nemvere dzemakwai, mvere dzepolyester dzakatetepa tweed dzakareruka uye dzakareruka mukugadzirwa, nekugadzirisa wrinkle yakanaka, yakasimba uye inopfeka-inodzivisa, nyore kushambidza, inokurumidza kuoma, pleat yakasimba, yakagadzikana muhukuru, asi kwete yakatsetseka semvere dzemakwai.
Kana kushandisa chiedza polyester sezvo mbishi zvinhu, pamusoro sirika luster.
Kana iyo mvere dzemakwai dzakakosha senge cashmere kana mvere dzengamera dzikashandiswa mumagetsi ekusanganisa, inonzwa ichitsvedza uye kunamira.
Chiyero chakajairwa chemvere-polyester kusanganisa ndeye 45:55, iyo isingagone kuchengetedza zvakanakira mvere dzemakwai, asiwo inopa kutamba kune zvakanakira polyester.
Zvakanakira: mvere dzemakwai dzakasanganiswa nepolyester, chiedza uye chiedza mukugadzirwa, yakanaka wrinkle kudzoreredza kuita.
Yakasimba, nyore kugeza uye kuoma, yakagadzikana muhukuru, yakasimba mu tuck
Mapoinzi ekugeza: sora nemvura inotonhora kwemaminetsi gumi kutanga, wozogeza nejenera rekugadzira detergent, geza tembiricha yemvura haifanire kudarika 45 madhigirii, collar, cuff yakasviba nzvimbo inogona kushandisa nyoro yemvere bhurashi kukwesha zvinyoro, mushure mekuchenesa yakachena, inogona kumonyoroka zvinyoro nyoro, tenga inotonhorera inofefetera mhepo, kwete kuvharirwa, haifanirwe kuomeswa, zvimwe nekuti yakaibva ichaita kuunyana.
9.T/R jira
Icho chimwe chezvinhu zveT / R jira rekugadzira yakamira collar jasi, jekete rejasi uye kupfeka kusina kujairika nehomwe yakawanda yeplaid kana mitsetse, flash kana monochrome T / R jira.
T / R jira ipolyester viscose yakasanganiswa jira.Polyester viscose yakasanganiswa imhando yekuwedzera. 50%, rudzi urwu rwemucheka wakavhenganiswa unogona kuchengetedza polyester yakasimba, wrinkles resistant, saizi yakagadzikana, inogona kushambidzwa uye kupfeka maitiro akasimba.Kusanganiswa kweviscose fiber kunovandudza kupenya kwemhepo yemucheka uye kushorwa kwegomba rekunyunguduka.Pilling uye antistatic phenomena zvemucheka zvakaderedzwa.
Shandisa 65/35 kana 67/33 nokuda kwepolyester/viscid-blend ratio.Polyester/viscose blend yakafanana nepolyester/viscose.Unhu hwemhando iyi yemucheka wakavhenganiswa hunotsvedza uye hwakachena, mavara akajeka, chimiro chakasimba chemvere, ruoko rwakanaka. elasticity, kunaka kutorwa kwemwando; Asi iyo yekusingaperi irombo.
Advantages: yakasimba, inodzivirira kuunyana, saizi yakagadzikana, inowachika uye inopfeka.
Inogona kuvandudza kupenya kwemhepo kwejira, kuderedza mapiritsi uye antistatic phenomenon.
Washing points: Muchina wekugezesa unogona kushandiswa, usakwesha nebhurashi, kuitira kudzivirira mapiritsi, kuomesa kune rumwe rutivi.
10.High-density NC
High density NC jira imhando yejira rakasanganiswa kana kurukwa nepoly-amide (nylon) neshinda yedonje.
Chigadzirwa chacho chinobatanidza zvakanakira nylon uye shinda yekotoni.
Kupfeka-kugona kwenylon ndiko kwekutanga pakati pemafuta echisikigo nemakemikari fiber. Kunyura kwenylon kuri nani pane kwepolyester, uye kupfeka kwayo kunyaradza uye kudhaya zvinhu zviri nani pane izvo zvepolyester. Naizvozvo, kupfekwa kwemwando uye kupfeka kunyaradzwa kweshinda yedonje hakuzodzike kana kusanganiswa kana kurukwa neshinda yedonje.
Nylon ine elasticity yakanakisa. Mushure mekubatanidza kana kupindirana neshinda yekotoni, elasticity yemucheka inovandudzwa.
Izvo zvakashata zvemucheka weNC ndezvekuti: nekuda kwenylon inobatanidzwa mukupindirana kana kusanganisa, kupisa kwekushisa uye chiedza chekudzivirira kwejira kwakashata, teerera kushambidza uye ironing mukugadzirisa kushandiswa kusangana nemamiriro ezvinhu, kuitira kuti udzivise kukanganisa.
Yayo inonyanya kuzivikanwa maitiro emhando: isiri nyore kupfeka, yakapfava uye yakagadzikana, iri nyore kuchenesa.
Usapisa muzuva, usadzima.
Washing points: Usaomesa wakachena, wooma murima.
Maintenance nzira: usapfeke mwaka, dzokera kune epurasitiki bhegi flat collection.
Nguva yekutumira: Mar-01-2021