Ubwoya ni iki kandi ni umwenda urambye?ingaruka ku bidukikije

Sharmon Lebby numwanditsi numunyamideli urambye wiga kandi atanga raporo kubyerekeye ihuriro ryibidukikije, imideri, numuryango wa BIPOC.
Ubwoya ni umwenda wumunsi ukonje nijoro rikonje.Iyi myenda ifitanye isano nimyenda yo hanze.Nibintu byoroshye, byuzuye, mubisanzwe bikozwe muri polyester.Mittens, ingofero, nigitambara byose bikozwe mubikoresho byubukorikori bita ubwoya bwa polar.
Kimwe nimyenda isanzwe, turashaka kumenya byinshi kubijyanye nubwo ubwoya bufatwa nkuburambe nuburyo bugereranya nibindi bitambara.
Ubwoya bwa mbere bwaremewe nk'igisimbuza ubwoya.Mu 1981, isosiyete y'Abanyamerika Malden Mills (ubu ni Polartec) yafashe iyambere mugutezimbere ibikoresho bya polyester byogejwe.Binyuze mu bufatanye na Patagonia, bazakomeza gukora imyenda myiza, yoroshye kurusha ubwoya, ariko iracyafite imitungo isa n’inyamanswa.
Nyuma yimyaka icumi, hagaragaye ubundi bufatanye hagati ya Polartec na Patagonia;iki gihe cyibanze ku gukoresha amacupa ya plastiki yatunganijwe mu gukora ubwoya.Umwenda wa mbere ni icyatsi, ibara ryamacupa yongeye gukoreshwa.Uyu munsi, ibirango bifata ingamba zinyongera zo guhumanya cyangwa gusiga irangi rya polyester yongeye gukoreshwa mbere yo gushyira fibre polyester yongeye gukoreshwa ku isoko.Hano hari urutonde rwamabara aboneka kubikoresho byubwoya bukozwe mumyanda nyuma yabaguzi.
Nubwo ubwoya busanzwe bukozwe muri polyester, muburyo bwa tekiniki burashobora gukorwa mubwoko bwose bwa fibre.
Bisa na mahame, ikintu nyamukuru kiranga ubwoya bwa polar ni umwenda wubwoya.Kugira ngo habeho fluff cyangwa hejuru hejuru, Malden Mills akoresha amashanyarazi yo mu cyuma ya silindrike kugirango avunike imirongo yakozwe mugihe cyo kuboha.Ibi kandi bisunika fibre hejuru.Nyamara, ubu buryo bushobora gutera ibinini, bikavamo imipira mito ya fibre hejuru yigitambara.
Kugirango ukemure ikibazo cyo gusya, ibikoresho ahanini "byogosha", bigatuma umwenda wumva woroshye kandi ushobora gukomeza ubwiza bwigihe kirekire.Uyu munsi, tekinoroji imwe y'ibanze ikoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya.
Polyethylene terephthalate chip nintangiriro yuburyo bwo gukora fibre.Imyanda irashonga hanyuma igahatirwa binyuze muri disiki ifite umwobo mwiza cyane bita spinneret.
Iyo ibice bishongeshejwe biva mu mwobo, bitangira gukonja no gukomera muri fibre.Fibre noneho izunguruka kumashanyarazi ashyushye mumigozi minini yitwa tows, hanyuma iramburwa kugirango ikore fibre ndende kandi ikomeye.Nyuma yo kurambura, ihabwa imyenda yuzuye inyuze mumashini isya, hanyuma ikuma.Kuri ubu, fibre zaciwe muri santimetero, zisa n'ubwoya bw'ubwoya.
Izi fibre zirashobora noneho gukorwa mubudodo.Imirongo isunitswe kandi yaciwe inyuzwa mumashini yamakarita kugirango ikore imigozi ya fibre.Iyo migozi noneho igaburirwa mumashini izunguruka, ikora imirongo myiza kandi ikazunguruka muri bobbins.Nyuma yo gusiga irangi, koresha imashini iboha kugirango ubohe imigozi mumyenda.Kuva aho, ikirundo cyakozwe mugutambutsa umwenda ukoresheje imashini isinzira.Hanyuma, imashini yogosha izaca hejuru yazamuye ubwoya.
PET yongeye gukoreshwa ikoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya iva mu macupa ya plastiki yatunganijwe.Imyanda nyuma y’abaguzi isukurwa kandi ikanduzwa.Nyuma yo gukama, icupa rijanjagurwa mo uduce duto twa plastiki hanyuma twongera gukaraba.Ibara ryoroheje rirahumanya, icupa ryicyatsi riguma ari icyatsi, nyuma rikarangi irangi ryijimye.Noneho ukurikize inzira imwe na PET yumwimerere: gushonga ibice hanyuma ubihindure mumutwe.
Itandukaniro rinini hagati yubwoya nipamba nuko imwe ikozwe muri fibre synthique.Fleece yagenewe kwigana ubwoya bwubwoya no kugumana imiterere ya hydrophobique hamwe nubushyuhe bwumuriro, mugihe ipamba ari karemano kandi ihindagurika.Ntabwo ari ibikoresho gusa, ahubwo ni fibre ishobora kuboha cyangwa kuboha muburyo ubwo aribwo bwose.Ipamba y'ipamba irashobora no gukoreshwa mugukora ubwoya.
Nubwo ipamba yangiza ibidukikije, muri rusange abantu bemeza ko iramba kuruta ubwoya bwa gakondo.Kuberako polyester igizwe nubwoya ari synthique, birashobora gufata imyaka mirongo kugirango ibore, kandi igipimo cyibinyabuzima cya pamba kirihuta cyane.Igipimo nyacyo cyo kubora biterwa nimiterere yimyenda kandi niba ari ipamba 100%.
Ubwoya bukozwe muri polyester mubusanzwe ni umwenda ukomeye.Ubwa mbere, polyester ikozwe muri peteroli, ibicanwa bya fosile hamwe namikoro make.Nkuko twese tubizi, gutunganya polyester bitwara ingufu namazi, kandi bikubiyemo imiti myinshi yangiza.
Uburyo bwo gusiga imyenda yubukorikori nabwo bugira ingaruka kubidukikije.Iyi nzira ntabwo ikoresha amazi menshi gusa, ahubwo inasohora amazi yimyanda irimo amarangi adasukuye hamwe nubushakashatsi bwimiti, byangiza ibinyabuzima byo mumazi.
Nubwo polyester ikoreshwa mubwoya idashobora kwangirika, irabora.Nyamara, iyi nzira isiga uduce duto twa plastike bita microplastique.Ntabwo arikibazo gusa mugihe umwenda urangirira mumyanda, ariko no mugihe cyoza imyenda yubwoya.Gukoresha abaguzi, cyane cyane koza imyenda, bigira ingaruka zikomeye kubidukikije mugihe cyubuzima bwimyenda.Bikekwa ko miligarama zigera kuri 1.174 za microfibers zirekurwa iyo ikoti ya sintetike yogejwe.
Ingaruka yubwoya bwongeye gukoreshwa ni nto.Ingufu zikoreshwa na polyester zongeye gukoreshwa zigabanukaho 85%.Kugeza ubu, 5% gusa ya PET irasubirwamo.Kubera ko polyester ari fibre ya mbere ikoreshwa mumyenda, kongera iyi ijanisha bizagira uruhare runini mukugabanya ingufu nogukoresha amazi.
Kimwe nibintu byinshi, ibirango bishakisha uburyo bwo kugabanya ingaruka zibidukikije.Mubyukuri, Polartec iyoboye icyerekezo hamwe nigikorwa gishya cyo gukora imyenda yabo 100% ishobora gukoreshwa kandi ikabora.
Ubwoya nabwo bukozwe mubikoresho bisanzwe, nka pamba na hembe.Bakomeje kugira ibiranga ubwoya bwa tekinike nubwoya, ariko ntibangiza.Hamwe no kwita cyane ku bukungu buzenguruka, ibikoresho bishingiye ku bimera n’ibicuruzwa bitunganijwe neza birashobora gukoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya.