Ubutumwa bwatanzwe nabaguzi buranguruye kandi burasobanutse: mwisi nyuma yicyorezo, ihumure nibikorwa nibyo bashaka.Abakora imyenda bumvise guhamagarwa kandi bitabira ibikoresho nibicuruzwa bitandukanye kugirango babone ibyo bakeneye.
Mu myaka ibarirwa muri za mirongo, imyenda ikora cyane yabaye ingenzi cyane muri siporo no mu myambaro yo hanze, ariko ubu ibicuruzwa byose kuva amakoti ya siporo y'abagabo kugeza ku myambarire y'abagore bakoresha imyenda ifite urukurikirane rw'ibintu bya tekiniki: gukuramo ubushuhe, deodorizasiyo, ubukonje, n'ibindi.
Umwe mu bayobozi muri iri soko ry’isoko ni Schoeller, isosiyete yo mu Busuwisi guhera mu 1868. Stephen Kerns, perezida wa Schoeller muri Amerika, yavuze ko abaguzi b'iki gihe bashaka imyenda ishobora kuzuza ibisabwa byinshi.
Ati: "Bashaka kwitwara neza, kandi bashaka no guhuza byinshi".Ati: "Ibirango byo hanze byagiyeyo bidatinze, ariko ubu turabona ko hakenewe [ibirango by'imyenda gakondo]."N'ubwo Schoeller “yagiye akorana n'ibirango byambukiranya imipaka nka Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers na Ralph Lauren,” yavuze ko iyi “siporo itwara abagenzi” ikomoka kuri siporo no kwidagadura izana inyungu nyinshi ku myenda ifite imiterere ya tekiniki.
Muri kamena, Schoeller yashyize ahagaragara verisiyo nshya yibicuruzwa byayo mu mpeshyi yo mu 2023, harimo na Dryskin, ikaba ari imyenda ibiri irambuye ikozwe muri polyester yongeye gukoreshwa hamwe n’ikoranabuhanga rya Ecorepel Bio.Irashobora gutwara ubushuhe no kurwanya abrasion.Irashobora gukoreshwa muri siporo n'imyambarire.
Nk’uko iyi sosiyete ibitangaza, iyi sosiyete yavuguruye Schoeller Shape, igitambaro kivanze cya pamba gikozwe muri polyamide itunganijwe neza ikora neza kimwe mu masomo ya golf no mu mihanda yo mu mujyi.Ifite amajwi abiri yibutsa denim ishaje na tekinoroji ya 3XDry Bio.Byongeye kandi, hari kandi imyenda ya Softight ripstop, yagenewe ipantaro ikozwe muri polyamide itunganijwe neza, ikozwe na tekinoroji ya Ecorepel Bio, ifite amazi menshi kandi irwanya umwanda, nta PFC, kandi ishingiye ku bikoresho fatizo bishobora kuvugururwa.
Kerns yagize ati: "Urashobora gukoresha iyi myenda mu nsi, hejuru no mu ikoti."“Urashobora gufatwa n'inkubi y'umuyaga, kandi ibice ntibizakomeza.”
Kerns yavuze ko abantu benshi bahuye n’ubunini bitewe n’imihindagurikire y’imibereho yatewe n’icyorezo, bityo rero aya akaba ari “amahirwe akomeye yo kwambara imyenda” ku myenda ishobora kuramburwa idatanze ubwiza.
Alexa Raab, umuyobozi wa Sorona ushinzwe kwamamaza no gutumanaho ku isi, yemeje ko Sorona ari bio ishingiye kuri bio ikora polymer yo mu rwego rwo hejuru ikomoka muri DuPont, ikozwe mu bimera 37% bishobora kuvugururwa.Imyenda ikozwe muri Sorona ifite elastique ndende kandi isimburwa na spandex.Zivanze nipamba, ubwoya, silik nizindi fibre.Bafite kandi imyunyu ngugu irwanya no kugarura imiterere, ishobora kugabanya imifuka n'ibinini, bigatuma abakiriya bagumana imyenda yabo igihe kirekire.
Ibi birerekana kandi isosiyete ikurikirana kuramba.Imyenda ivanze ya Sorona irimo guhabwa impamyabumenyi binyuze muri gahunda rusange y’isosiyete ikora ibyemezo rusange, yatangijwe mu mwaka ushize kugira ngo abafatanyabikorwa b’uruganda bujuje ibyangombwa ngenderwaho by’imyenda yabo: imiterere irambye, kugarura imiterere, kwita ku buryo bworoshye, koroshya no guhumeka.Kugeza ubu, inganda zigera kuri 350 zimaze kwemezwa.
Ati: "Abakora fibre barashobora gukoresha polimeri ya Sorona kugirango bakore ibintu byinshi bidasanzwe bifasha imyenda itandukanye kwerekana ibintu bitandukanye, uhereye kumyenda yimyenda yo hanze idashobora kwangirika kugeza ibicuruzwa byoroheje kandi bihumeka, kurambura no gukira, hamwe nubwoya bwa Sorona bushya." Renee Henze, Umuyobozi ushinzwe kwamamaza ku isi ya DuPont Biomaterial.
Raab yongeyeho ati: "Turabona ko abantu bashaka imyenda yoroshye, ariko kandi bashaka guhuza n'ibigo bitanga imyenda kandi biturutse ku nshingano."Sorona yateye imbere mubijyanye nibicuruzwa byo murugo kandi ikoreshwa muburiri.Muri Gashyantare, isosiyete yakoranye na Thindown, umwenda wa mbere kandi 100% gusa hasi, ukoresheje ibikoresho bivanze kugirango utange ubushyuhe, urumuri no guhumeka hashingiwe ku bworoherane bwa Sorona, drape na elastique.Muri Kanama, Puma yashyize ahagaragara Future Z 1.2, niyo nkweto yambere yumupira wamaguru udafite laceless hamwe na Sorona yarn hejuru.
Kuri Raab, ikirere ntigira imipaka mubijyanye nibicuruzwa.Ati: "Twizere ko dushobora gukomeza kubona ikoreshwa rya Sorona mu myenda ya siporo, amakositimu, imyenda yo koga n'ibindi bicuruzwa".
Perezida wa Polartec, Steve Layton, na we aherutse kurushaho gushishikazwa na Milliken & Co .. Ati: "Amakuru meza ni uko ihumure n'imikorere ari yo mpamvu y'ibanze yo kubaho kwacu", yagize ati: ibishishwa muri 1981 nkuburyo bwubwoya.Ati: “Mbere, twashyizwe mu isoko ryo hanze, ariko ibyo twahimbye hejuru y'umusozi ubu bikoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye.”
Yatanze urugero rwa Dudley Stephens, ikirango cya ngombwa cyigitsina gore cyibanda kumyenda itunganijwe.Polartec ikorana kandi nimyambarire yimyambarire nka Moncler, Ikirwa cya Kibuye, Champ ya Reigning, na Veilance.
Layton yavuze ko kuri ibyo birango, ubwiza bugira uruhare runini kuko bashakisha uburemere, bworoshye, butera ubushuhe n'ubushyuhe bworoshye kubicuruzwa byabo byimyenda.Imwe mu zizwi cyane ni Power Air, ni umwenda uboshye ushobora gupfunyika umwuka kugirango ugumane ubushyuhe kandi ugabanye microfibre isuka.Yavuze ko iyi myenda “imaze kumenyekana.”Nubwo PowerAir yabanje gutanga ubuso buringaniye hamwe nububiko imbere, ibirango bimwe byubuzima byizera gukoresha ibibyimba byo hanze nkibishushanyo mbonera.Ati: "Rero ku gisekuru kizaza, tuzakoresha imiterere itandukanye ya geometrike kugira ngo tuyubake".
Kuramba nabyo ni gahunda ikomeza ya Polartec.Muri Nyakanga, isosiyete yavuze ko yakuyeho PFAS (ibintu bya parfluoroalkyl na polyfluoroalkyl) mu kuvura DWR (imiti iramba y’amazi) mu kuvura imyenda yayo ikora neza.PFAS ni imiti yakozwe n'abantu idashobora kubora, irashobora kuguma kandi ikangiza ibidukikije n'umubiri w'umuntu.
Leiden yagize ati: "Mu bihe biri imbere, tuzashora ingufu nyinshi kugira ngo dukomeze gukora neza mu gihe twongeye gutekereza ku fibre dukoresha kugira ngo irusheho gushingira kuri bio."Ati: "Kugera ku buvuzi butari PFAS ku murongo w'ibicuruzwa byacu ni intambwe ikomeye mu byo twiyemeje gukora mu buryo burambye bwo gukora imyenda ikora neza."
Umuyobozi wungirije wa konti nkuru ya Unifi Global Chad Bolick yavuze ko uruganda rwa Repreve rwongeye gutunganya imikorere ya polyester fibre yujuje ibyifuzo byo guhumurizwa, gukora no kuramba, kandi bishobora gukoreshwa mu bicuruzwa bitandukanye kuva imyenda n'inkweto kugeza ku bicuruzwa byo mu rugo.Yavuze ko kandi ari “umusimbura utaziguye wa polyester isanzwe.”
Ati: "Ibicuruzwa bikozwe na Repreve bifite ubuziranenge n’imikorere nkibicuruzwa bikozwe na polyester idasubirwamo-biroroshye kandi byoroshye, kandi imitungo imwe irashobora kongerwamo, nko kurambura, gucunga neza, kugenzura ubushyuhe, kwirinda amazi, nibindi byinshi , ”Bolik yabisobanuye.Byongeye kandi, yagabanije gukoresha ingufu 45%, ikoreshwa ry’amazi hafi 20%, n’ibyuka bihumanya ikirere hejuru ya 30%.
Unifi ifite kandi nibindi bicuruzwa byeguriwe isoko ryimikorere, harimo ChillSense, nubuhanga bushya butuma umwenda wohereza ubushyuhe mumubiri byihuse iyo ushyizwemo na fibre, bigatera kumva ubukonje.Ibindi ni TruTemp365, ikora muminsi yubushyuhe kugirango ikureho ubuhehere mumubiri kandi itanga insulation kumunsi wubukonje.
Ati: “Abaguzi bakomeje gusaba ko ibicuruzwa bagura bifite ibiranga imikorere myinshi mu gihe bakomeza guhumurizwa”.Ati: “Ariko barasaba kandi kuramba mu gihe bazamura imikorere.Abaguzi bagize isi ihuza cyane.Barushijeho kumenya kuzenguruka kwa plastike nini mu nyanja yacu, kandi basobanukiwe ko umutungo kamere wacu ugabanuka, bityo, Barushijeho kumenya akamaro ko kurengera ibidukikije kubisekuruza bizaza.Abakiriya bacu bumva ko abaguzi bifuza ko bagira uruhare muri iki gisubizo. ”
Ariko ntabwo fibre yubukorikori ihora ihindagurika kugirango ihuze ibyifuzo byabaguzi kandi birambye.Umuyobozi mukuru wa Sosiyete Woolmark, Stuart McCullough, yerekana “ibyiza byimbere” y’ubwoya bwa Merino, butanga ihumure n’imikorere.
Ati: “Abaguzi muri iki gihe bashaka ibirango bafite ubunyangamugayo no kwiyemeza ibidukikije.Ubwoya bwa Merino ntabwo ari ibintu byiza gusa byerekana imiterere yimyambarire, ahubwo ni igisubizo cyibidukikije cyibidukikije kubikorwa byimyambarire ya buri munsi n'imyenda ya siporo.Kuva COVID-19 yatangira, abaguzi bakeneye imyenda yo mu rugo n'imyambaro itwara abagenzi bikomeje kwiyongera ”, McCullough.
Yongeyeho ko mu ntangiriro y’icyorezo, imyenda yo mu rugo ya merino yamamaye cyane mu gihe abantu bakoraga mu rugo.Noneho barongeye gusohoka, kwambara ubwoya bwabagenzi, kubarinda gutwara abantu, kugenda, kwiruka cyangwa gusiganwa ku magare ku kazi, nabyo byagaragaye ko bikunzwe cyane.
Yavuze ko mu rwego rwo kubyungukiramo, itsinda rya tekinike rya Woolmark rikorana n’ibirango bikomeye mu nkweto z’imyenda n’imyenda yo kwagura ikoreshwa rya fibre mu nkweto zikora, nk’inkweto za tekinike za APL za tekinike.Isosiyete ikora imyenda yo kuboha Studio Eva x Carola iherutse gushyira ahagaragara urukurikirane rw'imyambarire y'abagore bagenda ku magare, bakoresheje ubwoya bwa tekiniki, butagira ubudodo bwa merino, bakoresheje Südwolle Group merino ubwoya bw'ubwoya bukozwe mu mashini ziboha Santoni.
Urebye imbere, McCullough yavuze ko yemera ko hakenewe sisitemu zirambye zizaba imbaraga mu bihe biri imbere.
Ati: "Inganda z’imyenda n’imyambarire zirahatirwa guhindura uburyo burambye".Ati: “Iyi mikazo isaba ibirango n'ababikora kongera gusuzuma ingamba zabo kandi bagahitamo fibre idafite ingaruka mbi ku bidukikije.Ubwoya bwo muri Ositaraliya burazunguruka kandi butanga igisubizo c'iterambere rirambye ry'imyenda. ”
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukwakira-21-2021