Mubuzima bwa buri munsi, duhora twumva ko iyi ari imyenda isanzwe, iyi ni twill weave, iyi ni satine, iyi ni jacquard weve nibindi. Ariko mubyukuri, abantu benshi barabuze nyuma yo kubyumva. Ni ikihe kintu cyiza muri byo? Uyu munsi, reka tuvuge ibiranga no kumenyekanisha iyi myenda itatu.
1.Gusobanura kuboha, kuboha twill, na satin bijyanye nimiterere yigitambara
Ibyo bita imyenda isanzwe, twill weave na satin (satin) bivuga imiterere yigitambara. Kubireba imiterere yonyine, bitatu ntabwo aribyiza cyangwa bibi, ariko buriwese afite ibimuranga kubera itandukaniro ryimiterere.
(1) Imyenda yo mu kibaya
Nijambo rusange kubudodo busanzwe bwo kuboha imyenda itandukanye. Ibi birimo ubudodo busanzwe hamwe nubudodo busanzwe buhindagurika, imyenda itandukanye yubudodo busanzwe hamwe nuburyo butandukanye. Nka: imyenda yoroheje, umwenda usanzwe, umwenda usanzwe, umwenda usanzwe, gauze poplin, igice cy-umugozi poplin, umurongo wuzuye wa poplin, umugozi wimyenda hamwe nigitambaro gisukuye, nibindi. Ubwoko 65 murirusange.
Urudodo rwintambara hamwe nubudodo buhujwe nizindi nyuzi. Imyenda irakomeye, irashushanyije, kandi hejuru iroroshye. Mubisanzwe, imyenda yo murwego rwohejuru idoda ikozwe mubudodo busanzwe.
Igitambara cyo kuboha kibisi gifite ingingo nyinshi zuzuzanya, imiterere ihamye, hejuru yubuso, ingaruka imwe igaragara imbere n'inyuma, yoroshye kandi yoroheje, kandi ikirere cyiza. Imiterere yububoshyi busanzwe bugena ubwinshi bwayo. Muri rusange, igiciro cyimyenda isanzwe ni gito. Ariko hariho kandi imyenda mike yo kuboha isanzwe ihenze cyane, nkibitambara byo murwego rwohejuru.
(2) Imyenda ya Twill
Nijambo rusange kumyenda y'ipamba hamwe nibisobanuro bitandukanye byububoshyi, harimo imyenda ya twill na twill impinduka, hamwe nimyenda itandukanye ya pamba twill hamwe nibisobanuro bitandukanye. Nka: yarn twill, yarn serge, igice cyumurongo wa serge, yarn gabardine, igice cyumurongo gabardine, yarn khaki, igice cyumurongo wa khaki, umurongo wuzuye wa kaki, guswera twill, nibindi, byose hamwe ni 44.
Mu mwenda wa twill, igitambara hamwe nubudodo bifatanye byibuze buri mwenda ibiri, ni ukuvuga 2/1 cyangwa 3/1. Ongeraho warp na weft interweaving point kugirango uhindure imiterere yigitambara hamwe hamwe bita imyenda ya twill. Ikiranga ubu bwoko bw'igitambara ni uko gifite umubyimba ugereranije kandi ufite imyenda itatu-itatu. Umubare wabazwe ni 40, 60, nibindi
(3) Imyenda ya satine
Nijambo rusange kubisobanuro bitandukanye byerekana imyenda ya satin. Harimo imyenda itandukanye ya satine hamwe na satine, ibisobanuro bitandukanye nuburyo bwa satine.
Intambara hamwe nubudodo bifatanye byibuze buri mwenda itatu. Mubitambara, ubucucike nuburebure kandi bunini, kandi hejuru yigitambara kiroroshye, cyoroshye, kandi cyuzuye urumuri, ariko igiciro cyibicuruzwa kiri hejuru, bityo igiciro kizaba gihenze.
Ububoshyi bwa satine buragoye, kandi kimwe gusa murudodo rwintambara hamwe nubudodo butwikiriye ubuso muburyo bwuburebure bureremba. Satin ya warp itwikiriye hejuru yitwa warp satin; weft ireremba hejuru yubuso yitwa weft satin. Uburebure burebure bureremba butuma ubuso bwimyenda bugira urumuri rwiza kandi byoroshye kwerekana urumuri. Kubwibyo, uramutse witegereje neza imyenda ya satin, uzumva urumuri ruke.
Niba umugozi wa filament ufite urumuri rwiza ukoreshwa nkurudodo rurerure rureremba, urumuri rwigitambara hamwe no kwerekana urumuri bizagaragara cyane. Kurugero, imyenda ya silike jacquard igira ingaruka nziza. Urudodo rurerure rureremba mububoshyi bwa satin rushobora gucika intege, guhindagurika cyangwa fibre. Kubwibyo, imbaraga zubu bwoko bwimyenda ziri munsi yubwa imyenda isanzwe na twill. Umwenda ufite ibara rimwe rifite uburinganire bwa satine kandi muremure, kandi igiciro nacyo kiri hejuru. Kuboha ikibaya, kuboha twill, na satin nuburyo butatu bwibanze bwo kuboha imitwe hamwe nududodo. Nta tandukanyirizo ryihariye riri hagati yicyiza n'ikibi, ariko mubijyanye n'ubukorikori, satine rwose ni nziza cyane mu mwenda w'ipamba, kandi twill yemerwa n'imiryango myinshi.
Yamamaye cyane mu Burayi mu binyejana byinshi bishize, kandi imyenda ya jacquard yabaye iyambere mumuryango wibwami nabanyacyubahiro kugirango bagaragaze icyubahiro nicyubahiro. Uyu munsi, imyenda myiza nigitambara cyiza byahindutse inzira yimyenda yo murugo yohejuru. Umwenda wimyenda ya jacquard uhindura imyenda nububoshyi mugihe cyo kuboha kugirango ube icyitegererezo, kubara ubudodo nibyiza, kandi ibisabwa kubikoresho fatizo ni byinshi cyane. Imyenda yo kuboha no kuboha imyenda ya jacquard irahuza kandi ihindagurika kugirango ikore imiterere itandukanye. Imiterere iroroshye, yoroshye kandi yoroshye, hamwe nubworoherane, drape hamwe nu mwuka uhumeka, hamwe nubwihuta bwamabara.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-09-2022