Muriyi mpeshyi n'itumba, mbere yuko abagore basubira mu biro, basa nkaho bagura imyenda bakajya gusabana. Imyambarire isanzwe, nziza, hejuru yumugore hamwe na swateri, amajipo yaka umuriro hamwe na jans igororotse, hamwe nikabutura byagurishijwe neza mumaduka acururizwamo.
Nubwo ibigo byinshi bikomeza kubwira abakozi ko bigomba gutangira kugaruka, abadandaza bavuga ko kugura imyenda yakazi atari byo umukiriya ashyira imbere.
Ahubwo, babonye ubwiyongere bwo kugura imyenda yo kwambara ako kanya-ibirori, ibirori, barbecues yinyuma, cafe zo hanze, gusangira ninshuti, nibiruhuko. Ibicapo byiza n'amabara ni ngombwa kugirango uzamure abaguzi.
Ariko, imyenda yimyenda yakazi izavugururwa vuba, kandi abadandaza bahanuye bimwe mubijyanye no kugaragara kwimyenda mishya y'ibiro mugihe cyagwa.
WWD yabajije abadandaza bakomeye kugira ngo bamenye ibijyanye no kugurisha mu bice bya none n'ibitekerezo byabo ku buryo bushya bwo kwambara ku isi.
Ati: “Ku bijyanye n'ubucuruzi bwacu, ntitwabonye ko agura. Yibanze ku myenda ye itaziguye, imyenda ye yo mu mpeshyi. Ntabwo twabonye ko imyenda y'akazi gakondo igenda yiyongera. ”Muri uku kwezi, umucuruzi mukuru wa Intermix, Divya Mathur, yavuze ko iyi sosiyete yagurishijwe na Gap Inc. mu kigo cy’imigabane bwite cya Altamont Capital Partners.
Yasobanuye ko kuva icyorezo cyo muri Werurwe 2020, abakiriya batigeze bagura ibintu mu mpeshyi ishize. Ati: "Muri rusange ntabwo amaze imyaka hafi ibiri avugurura imyenda ye yigihembwe. Mathur yagize ati: "Ubu yibanze ku mpeshyi 100%".
“Arimo gushaka imyenda yoroshye yo mu cyi. Imyenda yoroshye ya poplin ashobora kwambara hamwe na siporo. Arashaka kandi imyenda y'ibiruhuko ”. Mathur yerekanye ko ibirango nka Staud, Ubwanwa bwa Veronica, Jonathan Simkhai na Zimmermann ari bimwe mu bicuruzwa bikomeye ubu bigurishwa.
Ati: “Ntabwo aribyo ashaka kugura ubu. Yavuze ati: 'Ntabwo nshimishijwe no kugura ibyo nsanzwe ntunze.' Mathur yavuze ko kunanuka buri gihe ari ngombwa kuri Intermix. Ati: "Ukurikije ibigezweho muri iki gihe, mu byukuri arashaka ibikwiye. Kuri twe, iyi ni jinsi yimyenda miremire igenda inyura mu maguru, hamwe na 90 ya denim yoroheje. Turi kuri Re / byakozwe Ibicuruzwa nka AGoldE na AGoldE bikora neza. AGoldE yambukiranya imbere yamye ari umugurisha udasanzwe kubera amakuru mashya ashimishije. Re / yakozwe yambaye imyenda yimyenda irashya. Byongeye kandi, gukaraba kwa Moussy Vintage Ingaruka ni nziza cyane, kandi ifite uburyo bwo guhirika ubutegetsi ”.
Ikabutura ni ikindi cyiciro gikunzwe. Intermix yatangiye kugurisha ikabutura ya denim muri Gashyantare kandi yagurishije amagana. Ati: “Ubusanzwe tubona kwisubiraho mu ikabutura ya denim mu karere k'amajyepfo. Twatangiye kubona uku kwiyongera hagati muri Werurwe, ariko byatangiye muri Gashyantare, ”Mather. Yavuze ko ibyo byose ari byiza kandi ubudozi “bushyushye cyane”.
“Ariko verisiyo yabo irekuye ni ndende gato. Irumva ivunitse kandi yaciwe. Zifite kandi isuku, ndende, kandi ikibuno kimeze nk'isakoshi y'impapuro ".
Ku bijyanye n'imyambaro yabo y'akazi, yavuze ko abakiriya be ahanini bari kure cyangwa bavanze mu cyi. Ati: "Barateganya gusubukura ubuzima mbere y’icyorezo mu gihe cy'izuba." Yabonye kugenda cyane mumyenda yububoshyi namashati.
“Imyambarire ye y'ubu ni ijipo nini n'ishati nziza cyangwa swater nziza.” Bimwe mubisonga bagurisha ni hejuru yabagore na Ulla Johnson na Sea New York. Ati: "Ibirango ni byiza byacapishijwe hejuru, byaba byacapwe cyangwa birambuye."
Iyo bambaye amajipo, abakiriya be bahitamo uburyo bushimishije bwo gukaraba hamwe nuburyo bukwiye, aho kuvuga ngo "Ndashaka ikariso yera." Ibyifuzo bya denim akunda ni ipantaro ndende-ipantaro igororotse.
Mathur yavuze ko agurisha inkweto za kijyambere kandi zigezweho. Ati: "Mu byukuri turabona ubwiyongere bukabije mu bucuruzi bwa sandali".
Ati: “Ubucuruzi bwacu ni bwiza. Iki nigisubizo cyiza muri 2019.Tuzongera gutangira guteza imbere ubucuruzi bwacu. Turatanga ubucuruzi bwiza bwuzuye kuruta muri 2019 ".
Yabonye kandi kugurisha bishyushye byimyenda yibirori. Abakiriya babo ntibashaka amakanzu yumupira. Agiye kwitabira ubukwe, ibirori byo kwizihiza isabukuru y'amavuko, ibirori byo kuza-imyaka n'imihango yo gutanga impamyabumenyi. Arimo gushakisha ibicuruzwa bigoye kuruta kwambara bisanzwe kugirango abashe kuba umushyitsi mubukwe. Intermix yabonye ko Zimmermann akeneye. Mather yagize ati: "Turirata ibintu byose twazanye muri kiriya kirango."
Ati: “Abantu bafite ibikorwa muriyi mpeshyi, ariko ntibafite imyenda yo kwambara. Igipimo cyo gukira kirihuta kuruta uko twari tubyiteze ”. Igihe Intermix yaguze iki gihembwe muri Nzeri, batekereje ko bizatwara igihe kirekire cyo kugaruka. Yatangiye kugaruka muri Werurwe na Mata. Ati: "Twari dufite ubwoba buke, ariko twashoboye kwirukana ibicuruzwa".
Muri rusange, umunsi wohejuru wambara bingana na 50% mubucuruzi bwayo. Ati: "Ubucuruzi bwacu nyabwo bugera kuri 5% kugeza 8% by'ubucuruzi bwacu".
Yongeyeho ko ku bagore bari mu biruhuko, bazagura LoveShackFancy ya Agua Bendita na Agua, aba nyuma bakaba imyenda y'ibiruhuko.
Roopal Patel, visi perezida mukuru akaba n’umuyobozi w’imyambarire muri Saks Fifth Avenue, yagize ati: “Ubu, abagore rwose barimo guhaha. Abagore ntibambara cyane kugirango basubire mu biro, ahubwo ni ubuzima bwabo. Bajya guhaha kugura imyenda muri resitora, cyangwa kurya ibiryo cyangwa Ifunguro rya saa sita, cyangwa kwicara muri cafe yo hanze kugira ngo basangire. ” Yavuze ko bagura “imyenda myiza, yisanzuye, yisanzuye, ishimishije, kandi ifite amabara ashobora kwiruka no kuzamura imyumvire yabo.” Ibirangantego bizwi murwego rwiki gihe harimo Zimmermann na Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai na ALC.
Naho jeans, Patel yamye yemera ko amajipo yimpu ameze nka T-shirt yumweru. Ati: “Niba hari icyo, arimo kwiyubakira imyenda ya denim. Arimo kureba mu mafyinga maremare, 70s inzogera, amaguru agororotse, gukaraba bitandukanye, gukata umukunzi. Yaba umwenda wera cyangwa umwenda w'umukara, cyangwa ivi Yacitsemo umwobo, hamwe n'amakoti hamwe na jeans hamwe n'indi myenda ihuje ”.
Yibwira ko denim yabaye igice cyibiryo bye byingenzi, kabone niyo yaba asohotse nijoro cyangwa guhamagara muriyi minsi. Mugihe COVID-19, abagore bambara denim, swater nziza ninkweto zisize.
Ati: “Ndatekereza ko abagore bazubaha ibintu bisanzwe bya denim, ariko mubyukuri ndatekereza ko abagore bazakoresha aya mahirwe kugirango bambare neza. Niba bambara amajipo buri munsi, ntamuntu wifuza kwambara amajipo. Ibiro mu byukuri biduha amahirwe yo kwambara imyenda myiza yacu myiza, inkweto ndende ndende n'inkweto dukunda no kwambara neza ", Patel.
Yavuze ko uko ikirere gihinduka, abakiriya ntibashaka kwambara ikoti. “Arashaka kugaragara neza, ashaka kwinezeza. Tugurisha amabara meza, tugurisha inkweto zaka. Turimo kugurisha amazu ashimishije ”. Ati: “Abagore bakunda imyambarire barayikoresha nk'umunsi mukuru kugirango bagaragaze imiterere yabo. Mu byukuri ni byiza kumva umerewe neza ”.
Umuyobozi wa Bloomingdale y'abagore biteguye kwambara Arielle Siboni yagize ati: “Ubu, tubona abakiriya bitabira byinshi'buy ubu, bambara ibicuruzwa ', harimo no kwambara mu mpeshyi no mu biruhuko. Ati: “Kuri twe, ibi bivuze amajipo maremare yoroshye, ikabutura ya denim n'imyenda ya poplin. Koga no kwitwikira birakomeye kuri twe. ”
Ati: "Ku bijyanye n'imyambarire, uburyo bwinshi bwa bohemian, crochet na poplin, hamwe na midi yacapwe idukorera neza". Imyambarire ya ALC, Bash, Maje na Sandro igurisha neza cyane. Yavuze ko uyu mukiriya yamye amubura kuko yambaraga ibyuya byinshi ndetse n imyenda myiza iyo yari murugo. Yongeyeho ati: “Ubu afite impamvu yo kugura.
Ikindi cyiciro gikomeye ni ikabutura. Ati: "Ikabutura ya denim ni nziza, cyane cyane muri AGoldE". Yagize ati: “Abantu bifuza kuguma mu buryo busanzwe, kandi abantu benshi baracyakorera mu rugo no kuri Zoom. Ntushobora kubona icyo ari cyo. ” Yavuze ko ikabutura y'ubwoko bwose igurishwa; bimwe bifite uburebure burebure imbere, Bimwe ni bigufi.
Ku bijyanye n'imyenda isubira mu biro, Siboni yavuze ko yabonye umubare w'amakoti y'ikoti “byiyongera rwose, birashimishije cyane.” Yavuze ko abantu batangiye gusubira mu biro, ariko yiteze gukura mu gihe cyizuba. Ibicuruzwa byimpeshyi ya Bloomingdale bizagera mu ntangiriro za Kanama.
Imyenda yimpu iracyagurishwa, nikintu kinini mubucuruzi bwabo. Yabonye denim ihindukirira ipantaro igororotse, yatangiye kubaho mbere ya 2020. Imyenda ya mama hamwe nuburyo bwa retro biragurishwa. Ati: "TikTok ishimangira iri hinduka ku buryo bworoshye". Yabonye ko imyenda ya Miramar ya Rag & Bone yacapishijwe ecran kandi isa na jans, ariko bumva ari ipantaro ya siporo.
Ibirango bya Denim bitwaye neza harimo Mama, AGoldE na AG. Paige Mayslie yagiye agurisha ipantaro yo kwiruka mumabara atandukanye.
Mu gice cyo hejuru, kubera ko hepfo aribisanzwe, T-shati yamye ikomeye. Byongeye kandi, amashati ya bohemian arekuye, amashati ya prairie, nishati ifite imishino idoze hamwe nijisho nabyo birakunzwe cyane.
Siboni yavuze ko bagurisha kandi imyenda myinshi ishimishije kandi yaka nimugoroba, imyenda yera kubageni no kwambara nimugoroba nziza ya prom. Mubukwe bwimpeshyi, imyenda imwe ya Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua na Nookie irakwiriye cyane kubashyitsi. Yavuze ko LoveShackFancy rwose yambaye imyenda iremereye, "biratangaje cyane." Bafite kandi imyambaro myinshi yibiruhuko bya bohemian hamwe n imyenda ishobora kwambarwa mugukwe.
Siboni yagaragaje ko ubucuruzi bwo kwiyandikisha bw’umucuruzi bukomeye cyane, ibyo bikaba byerekana ko abashakanye barimo gusobanura amatariki y’ubukwe bwabo kandi hakaba hakenewe imyenda y’abashyitsi n’umugeni.
Yumi Shin, umucuruzi mukuru wa Bergdorf Goodman, yavuze ko mu mwaka ushize, abakiriya babo bahindutse, bagura ibicuruzwa bidasanzwe bigaragara kuri terefone Zoom no gutandukana kwabo.
Ati: “Mugihe dusubiye mubisanzwe, twumva dufite icyizere. Guhaha rwose nibyishimo bishya. Ntabwo ari ugusubira mu biro gusa, ahubwo no kubwo gutegereza kuva kera guhura numuryango ninshuti batekereza kuri gahunda zurugendo. Igomba kuba ifite icyizere ”, Shen.
Vuba aha, babonye inyungu muri silhouettes yurukundo, harimo amaboko yuzuye cyangwa ibisobanuro birambuye. Yavuze ko Ulla Johnson yitwaye neza. Shin yagize ati: "Ni ikirango gikomeye kandi aganira n'abakiriya benshi batandukanye." Yongeyeho ko ibicuruzwa byose biranga bigurishwa neza. “Ndagira ngo mbabwire ko we [Johnson] ari gihamya y'icyorezo. Tugurisha amajipo maremare, amajipo maremare, kandi dutangiye kubona amajipo magufi. Azwiho gucapa, kandi tunagurisha imyenda ye ikomeye. Ipantaro, ubururu bwerurutse busimbutse biradukorera. ”
Imyambarire rimwe na rimwe ni ikindi cyiciro gikunzwe. Ati: "Turabona rwose ko imyenda yongeye kwamamara. Mugihe abakiriya bacu batangiye kwitegura ibihe nkubukwe, imihango yo gutanga impamyabumenyi, no guhura ninshuti nimiryango, tubona imyenda yagurishijwe hirya no hino kuva mubihe bisanzwe kugeza ibihe byinshi, ndetse namakanzu yubukwe nayo yamenyekanye cyane ", Shin.
Ku bijyanye na jeans yambaye uruhu, yagize ati: "Imyenda y'uruhu izahora igomba kuba mu myenda, ariko dukunda ibicuruzwa bishya tubona. Imyambarire ikwiye, ipantaro y'amaguru igororotse hamwe n'amapantaro maremare yagutse yamamaye mu myaka ya za 90. Turabikunda cyane. ” Yavuze ko ikirango cyihariye, Biracyaza, giherereye i Brooklyn, gitanga uduce duto duto, dushushanyije intoki kandi dusize, kandi dukora akazi keza. Byongeye kandi, Totême yitwaye neza, ati: "Natwe tugurisha denim yera." Totême ifite imyenda myinshi yimyenda n'imyenda, nibisanzwe.
Abajijwe ibijyanye n'imyambaro mishya iyo abaguzi basubiye ku biro, yagize ati: “Ndatekereza rwose ko imyambarire mishya izoroha kandi yoroshye. Ihumure riracyari ngombwa, ariko ndatekereza ko rizahinduka muburyo bwa buri munsi. Twabonye imyenda myinshi yo kwambara imyenda ya chic dukunda. ” Yavuze ko mbere yo kugwa, batangije ikirango cyihariye cyo kuboha, Lisa Yang, kikaba ahanini kijyanye no guhuza imyenda. Iherereye i Stockholm kandi ikoresha cashmere karemano. Ati: "Nibyiza cyane kandi bikora neza, kandi turizera ko bizakomeza kwitwara neza. Birahumuriza ariko ni byiza. ”
Yongeyeho ko arimo kureba imikorere ya jacketi, ariko aruhutse. Yavuze ko guhuza no kudoda bizaba urufunguzo. “Abagore bazashaka gufata imyenda yabo mu rugo bajya ku biro kugira ngo bahure n'inshuti; bigomba kuba byinshi kandi bikwiranye na we. Ibi bizahinduka imyambarire mishya ”.
Libby Page, Umuyobozi mukuru ushinzwe kwamamaza muri Net-a-porter, yagize ati: “Mugihe abakiriya bacu bategerezanyije amatsiko gusubira mu biro, turabona impinduka ziva mu myambarire isanzwe ikajya mu buryo bugezweho. Ukurikije imigendekere, tubona kuri Chloé, Zimmermann na Isabel. Ibicapo bya Marant hamwe nindabyo kumyambarire yabategarugori byiyongereye-iki nigicuruzwa cyiza cyimyambaro yakazi yo mu mpeshyi, nacyo kibereye kumanywa nijoro. Mu rwego rwo kwizihiza HS21, tuzatangiza'Chic muri 'ku ya 21 Kamena Ubushyuhe' bushimangira ikirere gishyushye no kwambara kugirango dusubire ku kazi. ”
Yavuze ko ku bijyanye no kwerekana denim, babona imyenda irekuye, nini nini ndetse no kwiyongera kwa ballon, cyane cyane umwaka ushize, kubera ko abakiriya babo bashaka ihumure mu myenda ye yose. Yavuze ko imyenda isanzwe ya jeans yahindutse uburyo butandukanye mu myambaro, kandi ikirango cyabo cyahuje n'iki kibazo hiyongeraho ubu buryo mu cyegeranyo cyacyo.
Abajijwe niba inkweto ari zo nzira ya mbere, yavuze ko Net-a-porter yazanye amajwi mashya yera ndetse na retro imiterere ndetse n’imisusire mu mpeshyi, nka Loewe na Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Ku bijyanye n'ibyo ategereje ku mwambaro mushya wo mu biro ndetse no ku myambarire mishya yo kwambara mu mibereho, Page yagize ati: “Amabara meza atera umunezero ni yo ngingo nyamukuru y'impeshyi. Iheruka Dries Van Noten icyegeranyo cya capsule yihariye kirimo kutabogama binyuze muburyo bworoshye. , Humura kandi bishimishije ubwiza bwuzuza isura ya buri munsi. Turabona kandi gukundwa kwa denim bikomeje kwiyongera, cyane cyane ko duherutse gutangiza ubufatanye bwa Valentino x Levi. Turizera ko abakiriya bacu bambara ibiro byabo Mubihuze na denim kugirango habeho isura nziza kandi ihinduka neza mu birori byo kurya ”.
Ibintu bizwi cyane kuri Net-a-porter harimo ibintu bizwi cyane biva mu iduka rya Frankie, nka jacketi zipfundikishijwe amakoti hamwe na koti ya siporo yihariye ya Net-a-porter; Ibishushanyo bya Jacquemus, nk'ibihingwa byo hejuru n'amajipo, hamwe n'imyambaro miremire irimo ibisobanuro bitesha umutwe, imyenda y'indabyo ya Doen n'iy'igitsina gore, hamwe na imyenda ya Totême yo mu mpeshyi no mu mpeshyi.
Umuyobozi ushinzwe imideli y'abagore ba Nordstrom, Marie Ivanoff-Smith, yavuze ko abakiriya b'iki gihe batekereza gusubira ku kazi kandi ko batangiye kwishora mu myenda iboshywe ndetse n'imyenda myinshi y'ishati. “Biratandukanye. Arashobora kwambara cyangwa kwambara, arashobora kubyambara nonaha, kandi arashobora gusubira mubiro byuzuye mumuhindo.
Ati: "Twabonye kugaruka k'ububoshyi, atari ugusubira ku kazi gusa, ahubwo twasohokaga nijoro, maze atangira kubishakisha." Yavuze ko Nordstrom yakoranye neza na Rag & Bone na Nili Lotan, akavuga ko “bafite imyenda y'ishati Impeccable”. Yavuze ko gucapa n'amabara ari ngombwa. Ati: “Rio Farms irayica. Ntidushobora gukomeza. Ibi biteye ubwoba ”.
Yavuze ko abakiriya bakunda cyane imiterere yumubiri kandi bashobora kwerekana uruhu rwinshi. Ati: “Ibibazo by'imibereho biraba.” Yatanze ingero z'abatanga isoko nka Ulla Johnson bitwaye neza mu karere. Yagaragaje kandi ko Alice + Olivia azashyira ahagaragara imyenda myinshi mu bihe byo gusabana. Nordstrom yakoze akazi keza hamwe nibirango nka Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud na Cinq à Nzeri Uyu mucuruzi akora akazi keza k'imyenda yo mu cyi.
Yavuze ko yabonye imyenda yimikino yose yakozwe neza umwaka ushize kuko ari nziza cyane. Ati: “Ubu turabona inzogera n'ifirimbi bigaruka bifite ibyapa byiza. Nibyishimo n'amarangamutima, sohoka mu nzu ”.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nyakanga-08-2021