Icyambere, Reka nkubaze ikibazo: ikositimu igizwe nibice bibiri: imyenda nibikoresho?
Oya, igisubizo ni kibi.Ikoti igizwe n'ibice bitatu: imyenda, ibikoresho hamwe n'umurongo.
Imyenda n'ibikoresho nibyingenzi cyane, ariko ubwiza bwikoti biterwa numurongo, kuko uhuza ibikoresho bibiri bitandukanye rwose byimyanda, imyenda nibikoresho.
Ugereranije, bihendutse, bikwiranye nuburyo bwimyenda nugukoresha umurongo wometseho, ndetse wakozwe n'intoki zose, ariko ukoresheje ikariso yometseho irashobora kuba munsi yamafaranga 2000 yibi bikurikira, urwego rwo hasi rwimyenda ifatika mugihe runaka, uzasanga ibyo ikositimu yimyenda nibikoresho ntibizongera gukwira, gukururana kurundi ruhande, bisa nkaho gutandukanya gukina.
Umurongo mwiza, kurugero, amakositimu yubucuruzi yakozwe na YUNAI agomba kuba akozwe mu bwoya, imyenda nigitambara cyamafarasi.Muri make, ibintu bisanzwe birakenewe.Ikigamijwe ni ugufasha imyenda yimyenda nibikoresho kugirango bigende kurwego ruto mugihe ubafasha gusubiramo.
Umuce wa kabiri: nubwo ubwiza bwibikoresho byakoreshejwe buterwa nimpamvu nyinshi, igiciro cyigitambara ubu giterwa ahanini n’aho cyaturutse.Igiciro cyimyenda yo murugo iratandukanye cyane niy'imyenda yatumijwe mu mahanga, ikomoka ahanini mu Butaliyani n'Ubwongereza.
Imyenda yo hejuru ku isi irimo: Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA, VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, REDA, CERRUTI 1881, YUNAI, n’igihangange cy’ubwoya bw’Ubutaliyani; Ni nacyo gipimo cy’ubuziranenge bw’ubwoya. abakora ubwoya cyane.Ibirango byambere byimyenda yishati ni Ubwongereza THOMAS MASON, Ubusuwisi Alumo, Ubutaliyani MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO nibindi. Iduka ryabigenewe rifite ubwoko burenze ubwoko bwimyenda yimyenda hamwe nigitambara cyamashati mubusanzwe ni iduka ryabigenewe cyane.
Mubisanzwe, izo nganda zifite ibisabwa bikomeye kubipimo byumwuga byamaduka gakondo.Gusa nibagera ku bipimo bihuye bazemerera uburenganzira bwo gukoresha imyenda yabo nibirango byabo.Iyongeyeho, uko waba ukoresha imyenda yo murugo cyangwa yatumijwe mu mahanga, ibiyigize ahanini ni ubwoya, byanze bikunze, hazaba nibindi bikoresho, nka cashmere , ariko imyenda yo mu rwego rwohejuru ikozwe mu myenda karemano aho kuba ibikoresho bya sintetike, ariko ntushobora gusaba cyane imyenda yo murugo.
1. Umwenda wera wuzuye
Umwenda w'ubwoya bivuga imyenda ikozwe mu bwoya cyangwa ubwoya na polyester, viscose, acrylic, n'ibindi.
Ubwoya bubi cyane ni imyenda yo mu rwego rwohejuru ikozwe mu bwoya bw'intama bwera kandi busukuye, bushobora kuvangwa nigice kinini cya fibre chimique yubwoya cyangwa izindi fibre karemano, kandi bigatunganywa no guhuza ibikoresho, guhuza, gutegura, kuzunguruka, kuboha, gusiga irangi no kurangiza inshuro nyinshi.
Ifite ihinduka ryiza ko umusatsi winyamanswa ahantu h’inyamanswa zifite umwihariko, igitsina cyoroshye, igitsina cyihariye cyamanutse hamwe na crape irwanya igitsina, iyo ikurura ubushuhe cyangwa ibyuya inyuma kugirango ikomeze gukora imibonano mpuzabitsina ishyushye.
Imyenda yiteguye ikozwe mubudodo bwiza bw'ubwoya buraramba kandi ntibizahinduka igihe kirekire.Bizihiza cyane cyane kubura aurora.Biroroshye kandi byoroshye muburyo bwimiterere, byiza cyane mubigaragara, bisobekeranye kandi byuzuye, byuzuye muburyo bwo guhuza, bya kera muburyo, byoroshye na kamere mubwiza nibindi.
Ibyo bita bibi cyane nubwoya, yagerageje gusobanura, uhereye kuri Angle ya ebyiri imwe iri hejuru ya fibre, indi ni ukuboha, kuzunguruka fibre ni 32 no hejuru ya 40, ubare fibre yoroheje, ingingo nkeya, ubwinshi bwa kamere, kurwanya abrasion nziza, ihumure ryiza, ikindi nigitambara, imyenda mibi ikozwe mumashini nziza yimyenda, irinde kuvunika fibre, urugero rwinshi ni muremure, imyenda yubwoya, ifatanye, byoroshye kumeneka, itandukaniro ryimyenda isanzwe, ubucucike ntabwo ari bwiza.
Imyenda yera yuzuye nabi cyane ni ntoya, ifite ubuso bworoshye n'imirongo isobanutse.
Umubiri uranyeganyega, woroshye kandi woroshye.
Fata ibikoresho nyuma yo kurekura, mubyukuri ntakubye, kabone niyo haba hari akantu gato gashobora no kubura mugihe gito cyane.
Kumenyekanisha umwenda w'ubwoya:
Umwenda w'ubwoya bwera ufite ibara risanzwe ryoroshye hamwe ningaruka nziza yubushyuhe nuburyo bwa mbere bwo gukora amakositimu yo mu rwego rwo hejuru hamwe namakoti.
Ariko ubu imyenda myinshi isa nubwoya, nkiterambere ryikoranabuhanga ryimyenda, igeze kurwego rwabakiriya benshi bigoye kumenyekana, ariko ibara, ubushyuhe, ibyiyumvo nibindi ntibiri munsi yigitambara cyiza.
Ibikurikira bitangiza uburyo bwinshi bwo kumenya imyenda yubwoya bwuzuye, kugirango ubone aho uhitamo imyenda nifu.
Ubwa mbere, gukoraho.
Imyenda yera yubwoya isanzwe yunvikana neza, imyenda miremire yubwoya hamwe no kumva umusatsi woroshye, uhindagurika umusatsi.Kandi uvanze cyangwa fibre yimiti ivanze, bimwe bitoroshye, bimwe byoroshye kandi byoroshye, kandi byunvikana.
Icya kabiri, reba ibara.
Ibara ryimyenda yubwoya yoroheje iroroshye kandi karemano, irasa kandi ntagihe.Mu buryo bunyuranye, ivanze cyangwa isukuye ya fibre ya fibre yuzuye, cyangwa urumuri rwijimye, cyangwa rufite urumuri.
Bitatu, reba kuri elastique.
Fata umwenda neza ukoresheje intoki, hanyuma urekure ako kanya kugirango urebe uko umwenda woroshye. Igipimo cyiza cyogusubiramo ubwoya ni kinini, gishobora gusubira muburyo bwambere, kandi kivanga cyangwa ibicuruzwa bya fibre chimique, kurwanya inkari ni bibi, ibyinshi muri ibimenyetso bigaragara byiminkanyari, cyangwa gukira buhoro.
Icya kane.Kumenyekanisha umuriro.
Fata agapira k'udodo, koresha umuriro, fibre yuzuye ubwoya impumuro yumusatsi waka, fibre ya chimique ihumura nka plastiki yaka. Iyo ibice bigoye nyuma yo gutwikwa, nibindi bikoresho bya fibre bihari.
1.Kumenyekanisha imizi imwe.
Umusatsi uri munsi ya microscope kugirango ubone inyamaswa zose zifite umunzani, niba ari imyenda miremire yimisatsi mugihe cyose ufashe umusatsi nkuwashizwe hejuru inshuro nke uzamuka hejuru cyangwa hasi (kugirango umenye ubu buhanga ushobora gufata umusatsi mubushakashatsi bwambere), niba ni umwenda usanzwe, ukuramo umugozi wumuzi, ukata cm 2 za paragarafu ebyiri muri fibre imwe munsi yintoki ukanda bine cyangwa eshanu, ntibari kugenda.
2. Ubwoya na polyester bivanze
Umwenda uvanze ubwoya, aribwo cashmere, polyester, spandex, umusatsi wurukwavu nizindi fibre hamwe nu mwenda wivanze wubwoya.Imyenda ivanze ubwoya na polyester, munsi yizuba, hejuru ifite flash point, umwenda urasobekeranye kandi ukomeye, byoroshye, gufata umwenda urekuye, hafi nta minkanyari.
Icyerekezo cyintambara, intambara, ubwinshi bwintambara
- Icyerekezo cy'uburebure bw'imyenda;
Urudodo rwo ku ruhande rwitwa imyenda y'intambara;
Umubare winsanganyamatsiko zitunganijwe muri santimetero 1 ni ubwinshi bwintambara;
Icyerekezo cya Weft, kuzuza no kuzuza ubucucike
- Icyerekezo cy'ubugari bw'imyenda;
Urudodo rwitwa weft, kandi umubare wudodo muri santimetero nubucucike.
Ubucucike
- Ikoreshwa mu kwerekana umubare w’udodo kuri buri burebure bwimyenda ya shitingi, muri rusange umubare wimyenda muri santimetero 1 cyangwa santimetero 10.Ibipimo by’igihugu cy’Ubushinwa bivuga ko umubare w’imyenda iri muri santimetero 10 ukoreshwa mu kwerekana ubucucike, ariko inganda z’imyenda ziracyakoresha umubare w’udodo muri santimetero 1 kugira ngo zerekane ubucucike.
Kurugero, ibisanzwe bigaragara "45 × 45/108 × 58" bivuga imyenda 45 yubudodo hamwe nintambara ifite ubucucike bwa 108 na 58.
Ubugari
- Ubugari bukomeye bwimyenda busanzwe bugaragarira muri santimetero cyangwa santimetero.Ibisanzwe ni santimetero 36, santimetero 44, santimetero 56-60, n'ibindi, byitwa bigufi, biciriritse n'ubugari.Imyenda irenga santimetero 60 ni ubugari-busanzwe, ubusanzwe bita imyenda y'ubugari.
Ubugari muri rusange bugaragara inyuma yubucucike.Kurugero, niba umwenda uvuzwe muri: 3 wongeyeho ubugari, bizagaragazwa nka "45 × 45/108 58/60" ", ni ukuvuga ubugari ni santimetero 60.
Ibiro
- Uburemere bwa garama yigitambara muri rusange ni garama yuburemere bwimyenda muri metero kare.Uburemere bwa garama ni ikimenyetso cyingenzi cya tekinike yerekana imyenda iboshye, kandi uburemere bwa garama busanzwe bufatwa nkikimenyetso cyingenzi cya tekinike yimyenda yubwoya.
Uburemere bwa garama ya denim bugaragazwa muri rusange nka "OZ", ni ukuvuga umubare wibiro byuburemere bwimyenda kuri metero kare, nka garama 7, garama 12 za denim, nibindi.
Irangi
Mu Buyapani, byitwa "imyenda irangi", bivuga inzira yo gusiga irangi cyangwa filament hanyuma uboha umwenda hamwe nudodo twamabara.Ubu bwoko bw'imyenda bwitwa "imyenda irangi irangi".Inganda zikora imyenda isize irangi muri rusange bita inganda zo gusiga no kuboha, nka denim, kandi imyenda myinshi yishati irangi.
3. Umwenda wavanze ubwoya na viscose
Urumuri rwijimye.
Ibyiyumvo bibi cyane ni intege nke, mugihe ubwoya bwubwoya bworoshye.
Ubu bwoko bwimyenda ntago bworoshye kandi bworoshye kuruta ubwoya bwuzuye na ubwoya-polyester, ubwoya bwiza buvanze neza.Niba ibirimo viscose biri hejuru, umwenda uroroshye.
Imiti yera ya fibre yuzuye ubwoya isa nigitambara gakondo viscose, fibre yubwoya nkibikoresho fatizo byimyenda imeze nkubwoya, ububengerane bworoshye, kumva byoroshye, kubura ibyiyumvo byoroshye.Kuko elastique ikennye, bigaragara ko ari crape byoroshye, kandi ntibyoroshye gushira.Ni uburyo bwiza bwo kumenya umwenda wa viscose ko imbaraga zurudodo zakuwe mumyenda bigaragara ko zigabanuka iyo zitose kuruta igihe zumye. Byongeye kandi, iyi myenda imeze nkubwoya irakomera kandi ikabyimba nyuma yo koga. Hamwe niterambere rya siyanse n'ikoranabuhanga. , kwigana ubwoya bwibara ryamabara, kumva, kuramba nabyo byabaye.
Ubwoko Bukuru:
Umusatsi w'urukwavu
Mubisanzwe, igice runaka cyimisatsi yinkwavu nubwoya bwaravanze kandi bikozwe.Ibiranga urukwavu rwurukwavu ruri muri fibre nziza, rworoshye kandi rwashashaye, rworoshye kandi rusinziriye neza, hamwe no guhindagurika neza.Nibyiza kwambara nibisanzwe kwambara, kandi gusinzira hejuru yo hagati biroroshye kugwa.
Niba inzira yo kubanza gukora swater hanyuma igasiga irangi (ni ukuvuga kuboha hanyuma irangi), ibara hamwe nurumuri bizaba byiza cyane kandi byiza, hamwe na latike idasanzwe, cyane cyane ibereye imyenda y'abakobwa bakiri bato.
Imisatsi ya fibre
Ibintu bisanzwe biranga imyenda nubucyo bwayo.
Ba nka acrylic unshirt, ubohe hamwe nudodo twinshi twa acrylic, imiterere yubwoya bwayo irakomeye, ibara kandi irabagirana, ubwiza bwibintu ni ibintu byoroshye byoroshye, igipimo cyo kugarura amazi ni 0-4.5% gusa, imbaraga zo kumena fibre ni ndende kuruta fibre yubwoya, Ntabwo inyenzi, ariko ihinduka ryayo ryagarutsweho ni munsi yubwoya, komeza imibonano mpuzabitsina ishyushye kuruta ubwoya bwuzuye ubwoya, igiciro kirahendutse, ariko ibinini byoroshye, bikwiriye imyambaro yabana.
Vuba aha, isoko mpuzamahanga kuri fibre ya acrylic, polyamide fibre ivanze, ihindurwa rya acrylic yigana mohair yarn, muri swater irashobora kugereranywa numusatsi wurukwavu karemano, imyenda ya mohair.
Umusatsi winyamaswa wavanze na fibre chimique
Ifite "ibintu byuzuzanya" byimisatsi itandukanye yinyamanswa hamwe nudusimba twa chimique, kandi isura yayo ni ubwoya, imbaraga zo kuramba ziratera imbere, kandi igiciro cya swater kiragabanuka.Nibicuruzwa byiza kandi bihendutse.
Ariko muri swater ivanze, hariho ikibazo cyuko ingaruka zo gusiga irangi atari nziza kubera ubushobozi butandukanye bwo gusiga amabara hamwe nubushobozi bwo gukuramo amabara yubwoko butandukanye bwa fibre.
4. Ibikoresho bya fibre yubukorikori bumeze nkibikoresho
Abongereza ni bo babaye abambere mu kwiga kuvana poroteyine mu kole y’inyamaswa gukora fibre proteine artificiel.
Mu 1935, abantu bamwe bo mu Butaliyani bagerageje gukuramo foromaje mu mata kugirango bakore ubwoya bw'ubukorikori.
Kuva icyo gihe, ibihugu bimwe byabonye intsinzi mu gukora fibre artificiel ikomoka kuri poroteyine ya soya na proteine y'ibishyimbo.
Kubera ibibazo bijyanye ningirakamaro nigiciro cyo gukora fibre, umusaruro ni muto.
YUNAI dim, kubura ibyiyumvo byoroshye, kubera elastique idahwitse, byoroshye kugaragara zou Ububiko, kandi ntibyoroshye kubura.
Hariho ubwoko bubiri bwa fibre yakozwe n'abantu: fibre nshya na fibre fibre.Fibre nshya ni fibre ya viscose ikozwe mubiti n'ibyatsi byo gutunganya imiti.
Fibre chimique ni fibre synthique ikozwe muri peteroli, gaze gasanzwe, amakara nibikomoka ku buhinzi.
Ukurikije imiterere nogukoresha fibre yakozwe n'abantu, hari ubwoko butatu: rayon, rayon nubwoya.
Ubwoko bwingenzi bufite fibre ya viscose, fibre acetate, fibre y'umuringa ammonia nibindi.
Fibre ivugururwa irashobora kugabanywamo fibre ya selile yongeye kuvuka, fibre selulose ester fibre, fibre protein nibindi fibre bisanzwe ya polymer.
Imiterere yacyo ugereranije na fibre chimique, fibre fibre.
Imyenda ya fibre yakozwe numuntu mubyukuri nukwerekana viscose fibre filament hamwe nigitambara cya fibre fibre, aribyo ipamba yakozwe numuntu abantu bamenyereye, rayon nibindi.
Mubyongeyeho, ikubiyemo kandi igice cyimyenda ikungahaye ya fibre hamwe nuburebure buringaniye bwa fibre hagati ya filament na staple.
Kubwibyo, imiterere yimyenda ya fibre yumuntu igenwa cyane cyane nimiterere ya fibre ya viscose.
Imyenda ya Rayon na rayon yoroshye gukoraho, guhumeka kandi byoroshye kwambara, kandi ifite amabara meza.
Imyenda ya fibre yakozwe n'abantu ifite hygroscopique nziza, kandi hygroscopique yayo ninziza muri fibre chimique.Ariko imbaraga zayo zitose ni nke cyane, ni hafi 50% byingufu zumye gusa, kandi igipimo cyo kugabanya imyenda nini, bityo rero kigomba kugabanuka hakiri kare mbere yo gukata byari byiza.
Imyenda isanzwe ya viscose ifite ibiranga drape nziza, gukomera gukomeye, kwihangana no guhangana n’iminkanyari, bityo imyenda yayo ikabungabunga imiterere mibi kandi ikunda gukuna.
Imyenda ya Viscose fibre ifite aside irwanya alkali, irwanya izuba nibindi birwanya ibiyobyabwenge.
5.Ibikoresho bya shimi fibre yuzuye ubwoya busa
Mubisanzwe, fibre synthique ikoreshwa nkibikoresho byingenzi, fibre artificiel cyangwa silik yamabara nkurudodo rwabafasha, hamwe na fibre synthique fibre ikoreshwa nkibikoresho nyamukuru, hamwe nimyenda ikwiye.Ubu bwoko bwimyenda ifite ubwoko bubiri bwimigano-imeze, imiterere karemano.
Ifite imiterere karemano iranga fibre naturel.
Umwenda uragaragara neza, mwiza, urabagirana kandi woroshye, ubereye rubanda.
Imiti ya fibre yubwoya, ibintu bisanzwe biranga imyenda biroroshye.
Ba nka acrylic unshirt, ubohe hamwe nudodo twinshi twa acrylic, imiterere yubwoya bwayo irakomeye, ibara kandi irabagirana, ubwiza bwibintu ni ibintu byoroshye byoroshye, igipimo cyo kugarura amazi ni 0-4.5% gusa, imbaraga zo kumena fibre ni ndende kuruta fibre yubwoya, Ntabwo inyenzi, ariko ihinduka ryayo ryagarutsweho ni munsi yubwoya, komeza imibonano mpuzabitsina ishyushye kuruta ubwoya bwuzuye ubwoya, igiciro kirahendutse, ariko ibinini byoroshye, bikwiriye imyambaro yabana.
Vuba aha, isoko mpuzamahanga kuri acrylic, poly-amide fibre ivanze yintambara, yahinduwe ya acrylic yigana mohair yarn, iyishati yayo irashobora kugereranywa numusatsi wurukwavu karemano, imyenda ya mohair.
Umusatsi winyamanswa hamwe na fibre fibre ivanze ubwoya, hamwe numusatsi winyamanswa zitandukanye hamwe na fibre fibre "byuzuzanya", isura yayo ifite ubwoya bwubwoya, imbaraga zo kuramba ziratera imbere, kugabanya igiciro cya swater, nibihendutse nibicuruzwa byiza.
Ariko muri swater ivanze, hariho ikibazo cyubwoko butandukanye bwa fibre ifite ubushobozi butandukanye bwo gusiga amarangi hamwe nubushobozi bwo gukurura amabara, ibyo bigatuma ingaruka zo gusiga atari nziza.
Tandukanya ibikoresho bya fibre fibre yubwoya bumeze nkibikoresho byubwoya:
Imyenda imeze nk'ubwoya ikozwe muri fibre ya chimique, kandi fibre ya viscose ni myinshi, nka polyester / viscose yo hagati yubwoya burebure, polyester yera nibindi bicuruzwa bisa nubwoya.
Ubwa mbere, gloss iratandukanye.
Umwenda w'ubwoya bwera cyane woroshye kandi karemano, ufite ibara ryiza cyane.Imiti ya fibre yigana ubwoya bw'intama ikungahaye ku ibara kandi ryiza.Niba witegereje neza munsi yizuba, uzabona kenshi urumuri rwinshi kandi rutangaje.
Iyi ngingo yo kwigana ubwoya bukonje busa nigitambara cyubwoya nabwo burashobora gutandukana.
Icya kabiri, umva na elastique biratandukanye.
Imyenda yera yubwoya yumva yoroshye, isukuye gato, igufwa ryumubiri, iminkanyari nkeya ariko ntago ikomeye, yoroshye ariko ntigororotse;
Mugihe polyester, ubwoya bumeze nkubwo bugaragara, ariko bworoshye kandi bworoshye, nta magufa yumubiri, imyunyu myinshi, kugaruka buhoro.
Icya gatatu, gutwika silik nyuma yo gushushanya.
Imyenda yera yubwoya irashobora kuboneka nyuma yuburinganire bwa fibre yubwoya, uburebure butandukanye, gutembera karemano, hamwe na viscose bigana uburebure bwimyenda yubwoya, uburebure bwimbitse.
Nyuma yo gutwikwa, nyuma yumuriro waka buhoro, ugasiga umuriro ukomeje gutwika, umusatsi uherekejwe numunuko, ivu, cube yumukara wa cube, impinduramatwara ni ifu yimyenda yubwoya bwera, kandi hafi yumuriro irashya, yaka vuba , urumuri rwumuhondo, gutwika clamp, ivu hamwe byoroshye kuguruka byerurutse byoroshye, byera kandi bigasiga bigoye kumenagura ikibyimba cya polyester / viscose.
Irasiga kandi ibibyimba byirabura nyuma yo gutwikwa.
Kuva kuri bibiri kugeza kuri bibiri cyangwa byinshi mubigize cyangwa bivanze bivanze: ubwoya / viscose, ubwoya / polyester, ubwoya / silik, ubwoya / viscose / spandex, nibindi, ntibikeneye gusa gusobanukirwa neza ubwoko butandukanye bwa fibre morphologie nibintu, nuburyo bwo gukoresha fibre nyinshi iranga, uhereye kubireba ukongera, gutwika umuriro kugeza ikizamini nyuma yikizamini, birashobora kugera kumyanzuro neza.
6.Ubwoya bw'intama
Guhindura ibikoresho byubwoya nibintu bisanzwe byubwoya nyuma yo kuvura imiti no kuvura umubiri, kwangirika kwa fibre yubwoya, kandi ukoresheje imiti yipimisha imiti, bituma ubwoya buhinduka neza, burabagirana, butagabanuka mugihe cyo gukaraba, bikwiriye kwambara mubukwe.
Mercerizing ubwoya ni uburyo bwo kuvura ibicuruzwa byubwoya muburyo bwo guhuza amarangi yubwoya no kurangiza.
Ubwoya bugomba guhindurwa na Basolan DC cyangwa kuvurwa na protease kugirango isenye umunzani wubuso bwubwoya kandi bigabanye itandukaniro riri hagati ya coefficient de fraisation mugihe cyo kugenda no guhindukira kwubwoya.Nyuma yo kuvurwa, ubwiza bwubwoya bwiyongera, bakunze kwita ubwoya bwa mercerised.
Ubwoya bwa mercerize bushobora kuboherwa mu bwoya bwuzuye cyangwa buvanze.
Ibintu nyamukuru biranga anti-shrinkage, imashini - gukaraba, kurwanya - ibinini.
Ubuhanga bwa ubwoya bwa mercerised bwatangiye hagati mu myaka ya za 90, ni tekinolojiya mishya yo gusiga irangi no kurangiza yakozwe hashingiwe ku buhanga bwa chlorine gakondo no kugabanya ubwoya bw'ubwoya.
Umwenda w'ubwoya uvuwe ufite cashmere yumva hamwe na silike.
Nkibisubizo byibi biranga, ibicuruzwa byogosha ubwoya byaje kumenyekana vuba.
Kugeza ubu, ubwoya bwa mercerised bwarakunzwe cyane, umugabane wisoko warenze ubwinshi bwubwoya busanzwe.
Hariho imyumvire itandukanye yubwoya bwa mercerized mubushinwa no mubindi bihugu kwisi.Mu Bushinwa, ubwoya bwambuwe fosifore bwitwa ubwoya bwa mercerize, mu gihe ubwoya bw'intama mpuzamahanga bwinjizwamo umwuka ushushe, kandi bukaramburwa na 30% ~ 50%.Noneho, nyuma yo gukonjeshwa namazi akonje hanyuma ikagira ishusho, ubwoya bwintama ndende kandi yoroheje bwitwa ubwoya bwa mercerized.
7.Ubwoya
Ubwoya bukunze kwitwa umwenda wa fibre.
Fibre yubwoya ni molekile ya poroteyine ihujwe, isura yurwego rwihariye rwimiterere yubunini bwikigina, ifunze cyane, imiterere ya flake ni nto cyane, ibyiza byayo ni ukurinda umwanda muri fibre, bityo, imyenda yubwoya ntabwo yanduye byoroshye.
Isuku yumye ikunze guhura nimyenda itandukanye mugihe cyo kumesa, kandi imyenda yubwoya nayo irasanzwe.
Impamvu ituma ubwoya butanga urumuri rwinshi ni:
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Inzira zo gukuraho urumuri:
(1) Umugati urashobora guhindurwamo ifu hanyuma ugakwirakwizwa mumucyo, hamwe nicyuma kugeza icyuma;
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Vinegere yera irashobora kandi gukoreshwa.
(3) Koza hamwe na brush mugihe cyoza.
Fibre ni fibre naturel, nigisubizo cyimbuto zibihingwa, ibiti nibibabi bifite fibre nyinshi ya chimique ntabwo ifite ubuziranenge bwiza, gene hydrophilique nyinshi muri fibre yipamba, hygroscopicity nziza, kwambara ibyuya, ibyuka bihumeka, neza, hamwe na hembe hamwe nimbeho ikonje , ubwitonzi, ntugumane kubiranga bikoreshwa cyane mubikorwa byimyenda, ikaze kubaguzi.
Ibyiza: byoroshye kandi byoroshye kubiganza, byoroshye na kamere birabagirana, byoroshye kandi byiza kwambara, ibyiyumvo byo murwego rwohejuru, kwinjiza neza neza, ntabwo byoroshye gutwara ubushyuhe, kubungabunga ubushyuhe bwiza, kurwanya crease, cyane cyane nyuma yo gutunganya imyenda no gushiramo ibyuma byiza gushiraho no kurinda imiterere yimyenda;
Icyitonderwa: Ubushyuhe bwo gukaraba ntibukwiye kuba hejuru cyane, ntugasibe cyangwa ngo wandike kugirango wirinde izuba.
Ingingo yo gukanda: Icyuma gitose, gushiramo ibyuma byumye kuruhande.
Ibibi: alkali - irwanya, kugabanuka, byoroshye kubyimba.
8. Umwenda w'ubwoya-polyester
Igitambara c'ubwoya-polyester (ubwoya-polyester): Imyenda ikozwe mu bwoya na polyester ivanze, ubwoko bukunze kuvangwa ubwoya.
Igitambara gikozwe mu bwoya na polyester kivanze.
Ikigereranyo rusange cyo kuvanga ubwoya-polyester ni 45∶55, kidashobora kugumana gusa ubwoya bwubwoya, ariko kandi gitanga umukino wuzuye kubwinyungu za polyester.
Imyenda hafi ya yose yuzuye kandi mbi cyane ifite ubwoya-polyester buvanze butandukanye.
Muri byo imyenda mibi yubwoya-polyester yoroheje yindabyo nayo bita ubukonje, bakunze kwita ubwoya bukonje rwose, nicyo kigaragaza cyane ubwoya bwogosha ubwoya-polyester buranga kimwe mubitambara.
Hano haribintu bibiri-byintambara hamwe nubudodo, inshuro ebyiri-imwe, umwe-umwe-umwe-umwe-umwe-umwe.
Mubisanzwe hamwe na 50 ~ 70 yumugabo wikubye kabiri, imyenda yoroheje hamwe 100 ~ 120 yumugabo.
Uburemere bwimyenda ni 170 ~ 190 g / m 2.
Ugereranije n'ubwoya bw'ubwoya, ubwoya-polyester yoroheje tweed ni urumuri n'umucyo muburyo bwiza, hamwe no gukira neza kwinkari, gukomera no kurwanya-kwambara, byoroshye gukaraba, byihuse byumye, byinginga biramba, bihamye mubunini, ariko ntabwo byoroshye nkubwoya.
Niba ukoresheje polyester yoroheje nkibikoresho fatizo, ubuso bwa silike.
Niba ubwoya bwinyamanswa budasanzwe nka cashmere cyangwa umusatsi wingamiya bikoreshwa mubikoresho fatizo byo kuvanga, bizumva kunyerera kandi bifatanye.
Ikigereranyo gisanzwe cyo kuvanga ubwoya-polyester ni 45:55, kidashobora kugumana ibyiza byubwoya gusa, ahubwo binatanga gukina kubyiza bya polyester.
Ibyiza: ubwoya buvanze na polyester, urumuri numucyo muburyo bwiza, imikorere myiza yo gukira.
Kuramba, byoroshye gukaraba no gukama, bihamye mubunini, biramba
Ahantu ho gukaraba: koga n'amazi akonje muminota 15 ubanza, hanyuma ukarabe hamwe na sintetike rusange, kwoza ubushyuhe bwamazi ntibigomba kurenza dogere 45, umukufi, ahantu handuye harashobora gukoreshwa umuyonga woroshye wubwoya kugirango uhanagure buhoro, nyuma yo koza neza, birashobora kugoreka buhoro, gura ahantu hafite umwuka uhumeka neza, ntabwo ari insole, ntigomba gukama, kugirango bitarera kubyara inkeke.
9.T / R.
Nibimwe mubiranga imyenda ya T / R gukora ikoti ya collar ihagaze, ikoti ya lapel hamwe no kwambara bisanzwe hamwe numubare munini wishyuwe cyangwa umurongo, flash cyangwa monochrome T / R.
Umwenda wa T / R ni polyester viscose ivanze.Polester viscose ivanze nubwoko bwuzuzanya. Visester ya polyester ntabwo ari ipamba gusa, ubwoya, hamwe nigihe kirekire - kirekire. Imyenda yubwoya ikunze kwitwa "bus yihuta" .Iyo polyester itari munsi ya 50%, ubu bwoko bwimyenda ivanze irashobora gutuma polyester ikomera, irwanya inkari, ingano ihamye, yogejwe kandi ikambara ibintu bikomeye. Kuvanga fibre ya viscose ituma umwuka wimyuka uhumeka neza hamwe no kurwanya umwobo ushonga. y'imyenda yagabanutse.
Koresha 65/35 cyangwa 67/33 kubipimo bya polyester / viscid-bivanze. Polyester / viscose ivanze ni kimwe na polyester / viscose. Ibiranga ubu bwoko bwimyenda ivanze biroroshye kandi bisukuye, amabara meza, imiterere yubwoya bukomeye, ukuboko kwiza elastique, kwinjiza neza neza; Ariko guhoraho ni bibi.
Ibyiza: bihamye, birwanya inkeke, ingano ihamye, yogejwe kandi irashobora kwambara.
Irashobora kunoza ikirere cyimyuka yimyenda, kugabanya ibinini na antistatike.
Ingingo zo gukaraba: Imashini imesa irashobora gukoreshwa, ntugasukure hamwe na brush, kugirango wirinde ibinini, byumye kurundi ruhande.
10.Ubucucike bukabije NC
Ubucucike bwinshi NC ni ubwoko bwimyenda ivanze cyangwa ivanze na poly-amide (nylon) hamwe nudodo.
Igicuruzwa gihuza ibyiza bya nylon hamwe nipamba.
Ubushobozi-bwo kwambara bwa nylon buza ku mwanya wa mbere muri fibre naturel na fibre chimique.Kwinjiza ubuhehere bwa nylon nibyiza kurenza ibya polyester, kandi kwambara neza hamwe no gusiga irangi nibyiza kuruta ibya polyester.Kubwibyo, kwinjiza ubuhehere no kwambara ihumure ryimyenda y'ipamba ntibizagabanuka iyo bivanze cyangwa bivanze nudodo twa pamba.
Nylon ifite ubuhanga bukomeye.Nyuma yo kuvanga cyangwa guhuza hamwe nudodo twa pamba, ubuhanga bwimyenda burahinduka.
Ingaruka yimyenda ya NC ni: kubera nylon igira uruhare muguhuza cyangwa kuvanga, kurwanya ubushyuhe no kurwanya urumuri rwigitambara ni bibi, witondere gukaraba no gucuma mugihe cyo gukoresha kugirango uhuze nibisabwa, kugirango wirinde kwangirika.
Imiterere yuburyo bugaragara cyane: ntabwo byoroshye kwambara, byoroshye kandi byiza, byoroshye gusukura.
Ntutwike izuba, ntukazimye.
Ahantu ho gukaraba: Ntukame neza, wumutse mu mwijima.
Uburyo bwo gufata neza: ntukambare igihe, subiza inyuma kumasaho ya plastike.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Werurwe-01-2021