Ubweya ndi chiyani ndipo ndi nsalu yokhazikika? chilengedwe

Sharmon Lebby ndi wolemba komanso wolemba mafashoni wokhazikika yemwe amaphunzira ndikupereka malipoti pamphambano za chilengedwe, mafashoni, ndi gulu la BIPOC.
Ubweya ndi nsalu ya masiku ozizira ndi usiku wozizira. Nsalu iyi ikugwirizana ndi zovala zakunja. Ndi zinthu zofewa, zofewa, zomwe nthawi zambiri zimapangidwa ndi polyester. Nsapato, zipewa, ndi masikhafu zonse zimapangidwa ndi zinthu zopangidwa ndi ubweya wa polar.
Mofanana ndi nsalu wamba, tikufuna kuphunzira zambiri ngati ubweya umatengedwa kuti ndi wokhazikika komanso momwe umafananizira ndi nsalu zina.
Ubweya udapangidwa poyamba m'malo mwa ubweya. Mu 1981, kampani ya ku America ya Malden Mills (yomwe tsopano ndi Polartec) inatsogolera kupanga zipangizo za polyester. Kupyolera mu mgwirizano ndi Patagonia, adzapitiriza kupanga nsalu zabwino kwambiri, zomwe zimakhala zopepuka kuposa ubweya, komabe zimakhala ndi katundu wofanana ndi ulusi wa nyama.
Zaka khumi pambuyo pake, mgwirizano wina pakati pa Polartec ndi Patagonia unawonekera; nthawi ino cholinga chake chinali kugwiritsa ntchito mabotolo apulasitiki osinthidwanso kupanga ubweya. Nsalu yoyamba ndi yobiriwira, mtundu wa mabotolo okonzedwanso. Masiku ano, opanga amatenga njira zowonjezera kuti awukitse kapena kudaya ulusi wa poliyesitala wobwezerezedwanso asanaike ulusi wa poliyesitala wobwezerezedwanso pamsika. Panopa pali mitundu yambiri yamitundu yomwe ilipo pazida zaubweya zopangidwa kuchokera ku zinyalala zomwe zidabwera pambuyo pa ogula.
Ngakhale ubweya nthawi zambiri umapangidwa ndi poliyesitala, mwaukadaulo ukhoza kupangidwa ndi pafupifupi mtundu uliwonse wa ulusi.
Mofanana ndi velvet, chinthu chachikulu cha ubweya wa polar ndi nsalu ya ubweya. Kupanga malo owoneka bwino kapena okwera, Malden Mills amagwiritsa ntchito maburashi achitsulo ozungulira kuti athyole malupu omwe amapangidwa poluka. Izi zimakankhiranso ulusi m'mwamba. Komabe, njirayi ingayambitse kupukuta kwa nsalu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti pakhale timipira tating'onoting'ono pamwamba pa nsalu.
Pofuna kuthetsa vuto la mapiritsi, zinthuzo zimakhala "zometedwa", zomwe zimapangitsa kuti nsaluyo ikhale yofewa ndipo imatha kusunga khalidwe lake kwa nthawi yaitali. Masiku ano, umisiri wofananawo umagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ubweya.
Tchipisi ta polyethylene terephthalate ndi chiyambi cha njira yopanga ulusi. Zinyalalazo zimasungunuka ndipo kenako zimakanikizidwa kudzera pa disk yokhala ndi mabowo abwino kwambiri otchedwa spinneret.
Zidutswa zosungunukazo zikatuluka m’mabowowo, zimayamba kuzirala n’kukhala ulusi. Kenako ulusiwo amaukulungidwa pazitsulo zotenthetsera n’kupanga mitolo ikuluikulu yotchedwa tow, ndipo kenako amatambasulidwa kuti apange ulusi wautali komanso wamphamvu. Pambuyo kutambasula, amapatsidwa mawonekedwe a makwinya kupyolera mu makina opangira crimping, ndiyeno amawuma. Panthawiyi, ulusiwo umadulidwa mu mainchesi, mofanana ndi ulusi wa ubweya.
Ulusi umenewu ukhoza kupangidwa kukhala ulusi. Zokoka zopindika ndi zodulidwa zimadutsa pamakina opangira makhadi kuti apange zingwe za ulusi. Kenako zingwe zimenezi amaziika m’makina opota, omwe amapanga zingwe zokometsera bwino kwambiri n’kuzipota kukhala ma bobbins. Mukamaliza kudaya, gwiritsani ntchito makina oluka kuluka ulusiwo kukhala nsalu. Kuchokera pamenepo, muluwo umapangidwa podutsa nsaluyo kudzera mu makina ogona. Pomaliza, makina ometa amadula pamwamba kuti apange ubweya.
PET yobwezerezedwanso yomwe amagwiritsa ntchito kupanga ubweya amachokera ku mabotolo apulasitiki obwezerezedwanso. Zinyalala zomwe zimachotsedwa pambuyo pa ogula zimatsukidwa ndikuzipha tizilombo toyambitsa matenda. Pambuyo kuyanika, botolo limaphwanyidwa kukhala tizidutswa tating'ono tapulasitiki ndikutsukanso. Mtundu wopepukayo umawukitsidwa, botolo lobiriwira limakhala lobiriwira, ndipo kenako limapakidwa utoto wakuda. Kenako tsatirani njira yofananira ndi PET yoyambirira: Sungunulani zidutswazo ndikuzisintha kukhala ulusi.
Kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa ubweya wa ubweya ndi thonje ndi chakuti wina amapangidwa ndi ulusi wopangira. Ubweya umapangidwa kuti utsanzire ubweya waubweya ndikusunga mawonekedwe ake a hydrophobic komanso matenthedwe, pomwe thonje ndi lachilengedwe komanso losinthasintha. Sizinthu zokhazokha, komanso ulusi womwe ukhoza kuwomba kapena kuluka mumtundu uliwonse wa nsalu. Ulusi wa thonje ukhoza kugwiritsidwanso ntchito kupanga ubweya.
Ngakhale thonje ndi lovulaza chilengedwe, anthu amakhulupirira kuti ndilokhazikika kuposa ubweya wamba. Chifukwa poliyesitala yomwe imapanga ubweya ndi yopangidwa, zingatenge zaka zambiri kuti awole, ndipo kuchuluka kwa biodegradation kwa thonje kumathamanga kwambiri. Mlingo weniweni wa kuwonongeka kumadalira momwe nsaluyo ilili komanso ngati ndi thonje 100%.
Ubweya wopangidwa ndi poliyesitala nthawi zambiri umakhala wopangidwa mwamphamvu kwambiri. Choyamba, poliyesitala amapangidwa kuchokera ku petroleum, mafuta oyaka komanso zinthu zochepa. Monga tonse tikudziwira, kukonza poliyesitala kumadya mphamvu ndi madzi, komanso kumakhala ndi mankhwala owopsa.
Kudaya kwa nsalu zopanga kumakhudzanso chilengedwe. Njirayi sikuti imangogwiritsa ntchito madzi ambiri, komanso imatulutsa madzi otayika omwe ali ndi utoto wosagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi mankhwala opangira mankhwala, omwe amawononga zamoyo zam'madzi.
Ngakhale poliyesitala yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito muubweya siwowola, imawola. Komabe, zimenezi zimasiya tizidutswa ting’onoting’ono tapulasitiki totchedwa microplastics. Izi sizili vuto kokha pamene nsaluyo imathera kumtunda, komanso pochapa zovala zaubweya. Kugwiritsa ntchito kwa ogula, makamaka kuchapa zovala, kumakhudza kwambiri chilengedwe panthawi ya moyo wa zovala. Amakhulupirira kuti pafupifupi ma milligrams a 1,174 a microfibers amamasulidwa pamene jekete lopangira litsukidwa.
Zotsatira za ubweya wobwezerezedwanso ndizochepa. Mphamvu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi poliyesitala wobwezerezedwanso zimachepetsedwa ndi 85%. Pakali pano, 5% yokha ya PET ndiyomwe imasinthidwanso. Popeza poliyesitala ndiye ulusi woyamba womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito munsalu, kuchulukitsa kuchuluka kumeneku kudzakhudza kwambiri kuchepetsa kugwiritsa ntchito mphamvu ndi madzi.
Monga zinthu zambiri, mitundu ikuyang'ana njira zochepetsera chilengedwe. M'malo mwake, Polartec ikutsogolera zomwe zikuchitika ndi njira yatsopano yopangira nsalu zawo 100% kuti zibwezeretsedwenso komanso kuti ziwonongeke.
Ubweya umapangidwanso kuchokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe zambiri, monga thonje ndi hemp. Amapitirizabe kukhala ndi makhalidwe ofanana ndi ubweya waumisiri ndi ubweya, koma osavulaza. Poganizira kwambiri za chuma chozungulira, zipangizo zopangidwa ndi zomera ndi zogwiritsidwanso ntchito zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ubweya.