Ziribe kanthu kuti ndi akatswiri angati ovala zovala zachimuna awerenga mwambo womaliza wa suti iyi pambuyo pa mliri, amuna akuwoneka kuti akufunikanso magawo awiriwa. Komabe, monga zinthu zambiri, suti yachilimwe ikusinthidwa ndi kugawanika, mawonekedwe osinthidwa a seersucker, ndipo potsiriza amaphunzira kukonda makutu a nsalu, ndipo ngati mukukayikira, mukhoza kuvala nsapato zofewa.
Ndimakonda masuti, koma ndimavala chifukwa amandisangalatsa, osati chifukwa ntchito yanga imandikakamiza kutero, choncho ndimavala molakwika kwambiri. Masiku ano, n'zovuta kuganiza kuti pali ntchito zambiri kuvala suti: Mercedes S-Class ndi BMW 7 Series madalaivala, alonda okwera mtengo ndi zingwe zopota makola, barristers, interviewers ntchito, ndipo ndithudi ndale. Makamaka Andale ankavala masuti ndi kuchita mavinidwe amanjenje, monga taonera pa G7; cholinga chake chinkawoneka kuti ndikupeza mawonekedwe osasangalatsa ndi zosangalatsa zochepa zokongoletsa.
Koma kwa ife omwe sititsegula oligarchs kapena kutenga nawo mbali pamabwalo apakati paboma, suti yachilimwe ndi mwayi wopumula ndikudzilola kuti tibwerere kudziko lokhazikika. Tiyenera kuganizira zomwe timavala pamaphwando a m'munda, zisudzo za opera, misonkhano yampikisano, machesi a tennis, ndi nkhomaliro zakunja (nsonga yothandiza: ngati apereka china chake chokwera kuposa ma burger ndi mowa wamba wamba, chonde siyani mtundu wa simenti. zida Zachibudula…ganizirani izi, ingotayani).
Zomwe amuna aku Britain amachita pachilimwe chodziwika bwino nthawi zina zimawoneka ngati zachikale, koma pali njira yoti ifike pakati pa Charybdis atavala zazifupi zonyamula katundu ndi Scylla atavala suti zachilimwe, amuna otsogola ochokera ku Del Monte ndi Sandhill. Kupambana nthawi zambiri kumakhala pakupanga kusankha koyenera kwa nsalu.
M'zaka zingapo zapitazi, seersucker yachotsa mikwingwirima yake yopyapyala yabuluu kapena yofiyira ndipo idatuluka ngati gulugufe wokongola. "Ndapanga masuti ambiri a Wimbledon ndi Goodwood chaka chino kuposa zaka 10 zapitazi. Ikuyambiranso, kutengera mtundu, "atero Terry Haste wa Kent & Haste, Savile Street, pakadali pano Wowonera wamitundu yambiri amamuwonetsa Ken Kesey mumtima mwake. "Pali buluu ndi obiriwira, buluu ndi golidi, buluu ndi bulauni, ndi gridi ndi mikwingwirima yozungulira."
Mmodzi mwa atsogoleri a seersucker ongoganizira ndi Cacciopoli, wogulitsa nsalu ku Naples, koma seersucker samangopereka mtundu, komanso amachotsa nkhawa za creases: creases ndi mfundo; m'malo mwake, idapangidwa kale, yopumulapo Inde, yoyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito m'chilimwe.
Michael Hill wa Drake adati ndikumverera kofikirika kumeneku komwe ndi chifukwa cha kutchuka kwa nsalu chaka chino. "Chopambana chathu chachikulu ndi suti yathu yansalu. Palibe chosintha pamitundu yopambana: panyanja, khaki, hazel, ndi fodya.” Koma kusiyana kwake ndikuti adayang'ana pa zomwe adazitcha Mu chovala cha "suti yamasewera", adachisiyanitsa ndi telala yovomerezeka.
"Ndi za kukumbatirana ndi crease. Simukufuna kukhala wamtengo wapatali, ndipo kuti mutha kuyiponya mu makina ochapira kumathandiza kuti suti ikhale yofikirika. Amuna amafuna kuvala mosiyana ndi kudula ndi polo shati kapena T-shirt kuti aswe Jackets ndi mathalauza. Chilimwe chino, tikuwona masitayelo owonjezera otsika kwambiri ophatikizira mavalidwe ovomerezeka ndi mavalidwe osadziwika bwino, zipewa zokongola zakale za baseball ndi canvas zofewa zapansi ndi suti. Dziwani bwino, ndi dynamite. ”
Chimodzi mwa zifukwa zoganiziranso sutiyi ndikuti Drake samagulitsa suti yamasewera ngati suti, koma ngati kupatukana komwe kumatha kuvala ngati suti. Psychology yowoneka ngati yotsutsana iyi, kugulitsa zovala zachilimwe wamba ngati zidutswa ziwiri zofananira padera, zimagwiranso ntchito mu Connolly. Imapereka mtundu wosagwetsa misozi, womwe abwana a Connolly a Isabel Ettedgui amafotokoza kuti ndi "technical seersucker".
"Timagulitsa ngati ma jekete ndi mathalauza otanuka m'chiuno," adatero Ettedgui. ”Amuna amakonda izi chifukwa amaganiza kuti atha kugula padera, ngakhale satero. Tagulitsa kwa azaka 23 ndi azaka 73 omwe amakonda mitundu wamba komanso osavala masokosi.
Zegna ali ndi nkhani yofanana. Woyang'anira zakupanga Alessandro Sartori adafotokoza masuti akale omwe amatchuka ndi makasitomala opangidwa mwaluso, "Amavala masuti kuti asangalale." . Kukonzekera kuvala ndi nkhani ina. "Amagula zinthu payekha kwa wopanga zovala zapamwamba, amasankha pamwamba kapena ntchito, ndikupanga suti yogwirizana ndi pamwamba ndi pansi," adatero. Nsaluyi imapangidwa ndi silika wopotoka ndi cashmere, ndipo kuphatikiza kwa bafuta, thonje ndi nsalu zimagwiritsa ntchito pastel zatsopano.
Wojambula wotchuka wa ku Neapolitan Rubinacci nayenso adatembenukira ku kukongola kwambiri. "Safari Park ndiyomwe yapambana chilimwe chino chifukwa ndi yabwino komanso yosavuta," adatero Mariano Rubinacci. “Zimapumula chifukwa zili ngati malaya opanda chinsalu, koma amavala ngati jekete, motero amatha kumveka bwino, ndipo matumba ake onse ndi othandiza.”
Ponena za zovala zakale, ndimachita nsanje kwambiri jekete la thonje la Madras mwana wanga wamwamuna wamng'ono kwambiri yemwe adagula pamsika wa Portobello: chovala chokhala ndi mphamvu ya Proust chomwe chimapangitsa chithunzi cha America mu nthawi ya Eisenhower. cheke champhamvu, chimakhala bwino. .. Koma ndi mathalauza wamba.
Ngakhale Huntsman waku linga lalikulu la Savile Street awona njira yodzipatula yodzipatula. Creative Director Campbell Carey adati: "Covid asanachitike, anthu anali okonzeka kuvala ma jekete ndi mathalauza abwino kumisonkhano." “Chilimwe chino, sitingathe kugulitsa ma jekete a suti ya ma mesh okwanira. Kapangidwe ka nsalu kumatanthauza kuti akhoza kupindika. Imabwera m'mithunzi ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana kuti ipangitse kuti ikhale yosinthasintha kwambiri ndi kusakaniza kwanu, ndipo mutha kuyichotsa kuti mpweya ulowe ndi kutuluka. ” Carey adaperekanso zomwe adazitcha "mabala a sabata." Akadali mu mawonekedwe a Huntsman; mabowo okwera m’khwapa, batani, ndi m’chiuno, “koma mzere wa mapewawo ndi wofewa pang’ono, tinafewetsa kansaluko, ndipo mbali ya kutsogolo ndi imodzi, m’malo mwa ubweya [wolimba] wa akavalo.”
Kunena za malaya, lingaliro ndikupangitsani kuti muwoneke ngati mwavala malaya otsegula khosi, osati kuti mwangochokera ku maliro a mafia ndipo mwamsanga munamasula tayi yanu ndikumasula kolala ya malaya anu. Lingaliro langa ndikuvala malaya anzeru a bafuta pansi ngati Bel waku Barcelona. Kumanga kwake kulibe batani la khosi ndi pamwamba, koma mapeto amkati amawoneka anzeru, ndipo kolala imapitirirabe chifukwa cha mabatani pa kolala.
Kuchokera kumeneko, mutha kusankhanso malaya a tchuthi otseguka, kolala ndi mtundu wa malaya okhala ndi kolala ya Lido yolalikidwa ndi wopanga zovala za amuna Scott Fraser Simpson. Ngati ndinu okonda kuchita, onani akaunti ya Instagram ya Wei Koh, woyambitsa Rake Tailored. Anakhala nthawi yotsekeredwa ku Singapore, akufananiza masuti ake ambiri ndi malaya aku Hawaii ndikuwombera zotsatira.
Chikondwererochi chidzabweranso payekha pamndandanda wathu wanthawi zonse wa okamba ndi mitu ku Kenwood House (ndi pa intaneti) pa Seputembara 4. Kulowetsa zonsezi kudzakhala kudzutsanso mzimu ndi kuthekera kokonzanso dziko pambuyo pa mliri. Kuti musungitse matikiti, chonde pitani apa
Koma ngakhale m’nyengo yamasiku ano yodekha yosoka, pali nthaŵi zina pamene malaya a ku Hawaii angaonedwe ngati de trop ndipo anthu angaone kukhala omasuka (kapena osaonekera kwenikweni) kuvala tayi; pa izi, zomangira zoluka za silika ndizosankha bwino. Ndiwoyenda bwino kwambiri, chifukwa ikapindidwa kukhala mpira ndikuyika pakona ya sutikesi, simakwinya kapena kupunduka. Ngakhale zikumveka zotsutsana, zikuwoneka zomasuka kwambiri-ngati simundikhulupirira, chonde chithunzi cha Google David Hockney ndi tayi yoluka, yomwe angagwiritse ntchito ndi mathalauza opaka utoto ndi manja opindika.
Zingakhale zosangalatsa kuwona ngati zomangira zoluka zimatha kupulumuka kulosera za Huntsman's Carey. Kupatukanaku kudakali ndi njira yayitali. Ngati chilimwechi chili pafupi ndi brisk mesh blazer, tsopano akutembenukira ku chigawo china cha suti ya zidutswa ziwiri, ndipo atalimbikitsidwa ndi zosankha zambiri za seersucker, akugwira ntchito zomwe amachitcha kuti "akabudula a mafashoni". “Iwo ali chaka chamawa. “Inde,” iye anatero, “koma musalakwitse, jekete la suti ndi kabudula zili pano.”
Nthawi yotumiza: Sep-13-2021