Uthenga woperekedwa ndi ogula ndi womveka komanso womveka bwino: m'dziko la pambuyo pa mliri, chitonthozo ndi ntchito ndizo zomwe amafuna. Opanga nsalu amva kuitana uku ndipo akuyankha kuzinthu zosiyanasiyana ndi zinthu kuti akwaniritse zosowazi.
Kwa zaka zambiri, nsalu zapamwamba kwambiri zakhala zofunikira kwambiri pamasewera ndi zovala zakunja, koma tsopano zonse zopangidwa kuchokera ku jekete zamasewera achimuna kupita ku madiresi aakazi zimagwiritsa ntchito nsalu zokhala ndi zizindikiro zambiri zaumisiri: kupukuta chinyezi, kununkhira, kuzizira, ndi zina zotero.
Mmodzi mwa atsogoleri kumapeto kwa msika ndi Schoeller, kampani ya ku Switzerland yomwe inayamba mu 1868. Stephen Kerns, pulezidenti wa Schoeller USA, adanena kuti ogula masiku ano akufunafuna zovala zomwe zingathe kukwaniritsa zofunikira zambiri.
"Akufuna kuchita bwino, komanso amafuna kusinthasintha," adatero. "Zovala zakunja zidapitako kale, koma tsopano tikuwona kufunikira kwa [zovala zachikhalidwe]." Ngakhale kuti Schoeller "wakhala akulimbana ndi malonda odutsa malire monga Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers ndi Ralph Lauren," adanena kuti "masewera oyendayenda" atsopanowa omwe amachokera ku masewera ndi zosangalatsa akubweretsa chidwi chochuluka kwa nsalu zokhala ndi luso.
Mu Juni, Schoeller adakhazikitsa mitundu ingapo yazinthu zake kumapeto kwa chaka cha 2023, kuphatikiza Dryskin, yomwe ndi nsalu yanjira ziwiri yopangidwa ndi ukadaulo wa polyester ndi ukadaulo wa Ecorepel Bio. Imatha kunyamula chinyontho ndikukana ma abrasion. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito pazovala zamasewera ndi Moyo.
Malinga ndi kampaniyo, kampaniyo yasintha mawonekedwe ake a Schoeller, nsalu ya thonje yopangidwa kuchokera ku polyamide yobwezeretsanso yomwe imagwiranso ntchito bwino pamabwalo a gofu ndi misewu yamzindawu. Ili ndi ma toni awiri omwe amakumbutsa zaukadaulo wakale wa denim ndi 3XDry Bio. Kuonjezera apo, palinso nsalu yofewa ya Softight ripstop, yopangidwira mathalauza opangidwa ndi polyamide yowonjezeredwa, yopangidwa ndi teknoloji ya Ecorepel Bio, yokhala ndi madzi ochuluka komanso kukana madontho, PFC-free, komanso zochokera ku zipangizo zongowonjezwdwa.
"Mungagwiritse ntchito nsaluzi m'munsi, pamwamba ndi jekete," adatero Kerns. "Utha kugwidwa ndi chimphepo chamchenga, ndipo tinthu tating'onoting'ono sitingamamatire."
Kerns adati anthu ambiri adakumana ndi kusintha kwa kukula chifukwa cha kusintha kwa moyo komwe kumachitika chifukwa cha mliriwu, chifukwa chake uwu ndi "mwayi wawukulu wa zovala" wazovala zomwe zimatha kutambasulidwa popanda kusiya kukongola.
Alexa Raab, wamkulu wa Sorona pazamalonda padziko lonse lapansi ndi kulumikizana, adavomereza kuti Sorona ndi polima yochokera ku DuPont, yopangidwa kuchokera ku 37% zopangira zowonjezera. Nsalu yopangidwa ndi Sorona imakhala yokhazikika kwanthawi yayitali ndipo imalowa m'malo mwa spandex. Amaphatikizidwa ndi thonje, ubweya, silika ndi ulusi wina. Amakhalanso ndi kukana makwinya ndi mawonekedwe obwezeretsa mawonekedwe, omwe amatha kuchepetsa matumba ndi mapiritsi, kulola ogula kusunga zovala zawo motalika.
Izi zikuwonetsanso kufunafuna kwa kampani kuti ikhale yokhazikika. Nsalu zosakanikirana za Sorona zikukhala ndi certification kudzera mu pulogalamu ya certification ya Common Thread ya kampani, yomwe idakhazikitsidwa chaka chatha kuti awonetsetse kuti ogwira nawo ntchito a fakitale amakwaniritsa zofunikira za nsalu zawo: kusungunuka kwa nthawi yaitali, kubwezeretsa mawonekedwe, kusamalira mosavuta, kufewa komanso kupuma. Pakadali pano, pafupifupi mafakitale 350 atsimikiziridwa.
"Opanga CHIKWANGWANI atha kugwiritsa ntchito ma polima a Sorona kuti apange zinthu zambiri zapadera zomwe zimathandiza kuti nsalu zosiyanasiyana ziziwonetsa zinthu zosiyanasiyana, kuchokera ku nsalu zakunja zolimbana ndi makwinya kupita kuzinthu zotchinjiriza zopepuka komanso zopumira, kutambasula kokhazikika ndikuchira, komanso ubweya wochita kupanga wa Sorona ," Renee Henze, Global Marketing Director wa DuPont Biomaterials.
"Tikuwona kuti anthu akufuna zovala zabwino kwambiri, komanso amafuna kuti azigwirizana ndi makampani omwe amapangira nsalu moyenera komanso moyenera," adawonjezera Raab. Sorona wapita patsogolo m'munda wa zinthu zapakhomo ndipo amagwiritsidwa ntchito muzitsulo. Mu February, kampaniyo inagwirizana ndi Thindown, yoyamba ndi 100% yokha nsalu pansi, pogwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zosakanikirana kuti zipereke kutentha, kupepuka komanso kupuma molingana ndi kufewa kwa Sorona, drape ndi elasticity. Mu Ogasiti, Puma idakhazikitsa Future Z 1.2, yomwe ndi nsapato yoyamba ya mpira wopanda zingwe yokhala ndi ulusi wa Sorona pamwamba.
Kwa Raab, thambo lilibe malire pakugwiritsa ntchito zinthu. "Tikukhulupirira kuti titha kupitilizabe kuwona kugwiritsa ntchito kwa Sorona pamasewera, suti, zovala zosambira ndi zinthu zina," adatero.
Purezidenti wa Polartec Steve Layton nayenso posachedwapa wakhala ndi chidwi kwambiri ndi Milliken & Co. majuzi mu 1981 ngati m'malo mwa ubweya. "M'mbuyomu, tidasankhidwa kukhala msika wakunja, koma zomwe tidapanga pamwamba pa phirili tsopano zimagwiritsidwa ntchito m'njira zosiyanasiyana."
Anatchulapo Dudley Stephens monga chitsanzo, chizindikiro chofunika chachikazi chomwe chimayang'ana pa nsalu zokonzedwanso. Polartec imagwirizananso ndi mitundu yamafashoni monga Moncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, ndi Veilance.
Layton adanena kuti kwa mitunduyi, kukongola kumagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri chifukwa akuyang'ana zosalemera, zotanuka, zowotcha chinyezi komanso kutentha kofewa kwa zovala zawo zamoyo. Chimodzi mwazodziwika kwambiri ndi Power Air, yomwe ndi nsalu yoluka yomwe imatha kukulunga mpweya kuti ukhale wofunda ndikuchepetsa kukhetsa kwa microfiber. Iye anati nsalu imeneyi “yatchuka kwambiri.” Ngakhale PowerAir poyambirira idapereka malo athyathyathya okhala ndi mawonekedwe a thovu mkati, mtundu wina wamoyo ukuyembekeza kugwiritsa ntchito kuwira kwakunja ngati mawonekedwe. "Chifukwa chake m'badwo wathu wotsatira, tidzagwiritsa ntchito mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana a geometric kuti timange," adatero.
Kukhazikika ndi ntchito yopitilira Polartec. M'mwezi wa Julayi, kampaniyo idati idachotsa PFAS (perfluoroalkyl ndi polyfluoroalkyl substances) mu DWR (zoletsa madzi okhazikika) pamankhwala ake ochita bwino kwambiri. PFAS ndi mankhwala opangidwa ndi anthu omwe samawola, amatha kukhalabe ndikuwononga chilengedwe komanso thupi la munthu.
"M'tsogolomu, tidzagwiritsa ntchito mphamvu zambiri kuti tigwiritse ntchito bwino pamene tikuganiziranso zazitsulo zomwe timagwiritsa ntchito kuti zikhale zochokera ku bio," adatero Leiden. "Kupeza chithandizo chosagwirizana ndi PFAS pamzere wathu wazogulitsa ndichinthu chofunikira kwambiri pakudzipereka kwathu popanga nsalu zogwira ntchito kwambiri."
Wachiwiri kwa Purezidenti wa Unifi Global Key Account Chad Bolick adati ulusi wa Repreve recycled performance polyester umakwaniritsa zosowa za chitonthozo, magwiridwe antchito ndi kukhazikika, ndipo ungagwiritsidwe ntchito pazinthu zosiyanasiyana kuyambira zovala ndi nsapato kupita kuzinthu zapakhomo. Anatinso "ndizolowa m'malo mwa polyester wamba."
"Zopangidwa ndi Repreve zimakhala ndi mawonekedwe ofanana komanso magwiridwe antchito monga zopangidwa ndi poliyesitala yosasinthidwanso-zimakhala zofewa komanso zofewa, komanso zinthu zomwezo zitha kuwonjezeredwa, monga kutambasula, kuwongolera chinyezi, kuwongolera kutentha, kutsekereza madzi, ndi zina zambiri. ,” Bolik anafotokoza. Kuphatikiza apo, yachepetsa kugwiritsa ntchito mphamvu ndi 45%, kugwiritsa ntchito madzi pafupifupi 20%, komanso kutulutsa mpweya wowonjezera kutentha ndi 30%.
Unifi imakhalanso ndi zinthu zina zomwe zimaperekedwa ku msika wogwira ntchito, kuphatikizapo ChillSense, yomwe ndi teknoloji yatsopano yomwe imalola kuti nsaluyo isamutsire kutentha kuchokera m'thupi mwamsanga ikaphatikizidwa ndi ulusi, kupanga kumverera kozizira. Ina ndi TruTemp365, yomwe imagwira ntchito masiku otentha kuti ichotse chinyontho m'thupi ndikupereka chitetezo pamasiku ozizira.
"Ogula akupitilizabe kufuna kuti zinthu zomwe amagula zizikhala ndi magwiridwe antchito ambiri pomwe akukhalabe otonthoza," adatero. "Koma amafunanso kukhazikika ndikuwongolera magwiridwe antchito. Ogula ndi gawo la dziko lolumikizidwa kwambiri. Iwo akudziwa mochulukira za kufalikira kwakukulu kwa pulasitiki m'nyanja zathu, ndipo amamvetsetsa kuti zachilengedwe zathu zikutha, motero, Amadziwa bwino za kufunika koteteza chilengedwe kwa mibadwo yamtsogolo. Makasitomala athu amamvetsetsa kuti ogula amafuna kuti akhale gawo la yankho ili. ”
Koma sikuti ulusi wopangidwa umangosinthika kuti ukwaniritse zofuna za ogula ndi kukhazikika. Stuart McCullough, woyang'anira wamkulu wa The Woolmark Company, akunena za "zabwino zamkati" za Merino wool, zomwe zimapereka chitonthozo ndi ntchito.
"Makasitomala masiku ano amafunafuna zopangidwa mwachilungamo komanso kudzipereka ku chilengedwe. Ubweya wa Merino sizinthu zapamwamba zokha zamafashoni opanga, komanso njira yopangira zachilengedwe zamafashoni amasiku onse ndi zovala zamasewera. Kuyambira kufalikira kwa COVID-19, kufunikira kwa Consumer zovala zapanyumba ndi zovala zapaulendo kukukulirakulira, "adatero McCullough.
Ananenanso kuti kumayambiriro kwa mliriwu, zovala zapakhomo za merino wool zidayamba kutchuka pomwe anthu amagwira ntchito kunyumba. Tsopano atulukanso, kuvala kwaubweya, kuwatsekereza kutali ndi zoyendera zapagulu, kuyenda, kuthamanga kapena kupalasa njinga kupita kuntchito, zadziwikanso kwambiri.
Ananenanso kuti pofuna kupezerapo mwayi pa izi, gulu laukadaulo la Woolmark likugwirizana ndi makampani akuluakulu m'minda ya nsapato ndi zovala kuti awonjezere kugwiritsa ntchito ulusi mu nsapato zogwirira ntchito, monga nsapato zaukadaulo zoluka za APL. Knitwear design company Studio Eva x Carola posachedwapa anapezerapo mndandanda wa ma prototypes ovala njinga akazi, ntchito luso, opanda msokonezo merino ubweya, ntchito Südwolle Gulu merino ubweya ulusi wopangidwa pa Santoni kuluka makina.
Kuyang'ana m'tsogolo, McCullough adanena kuti akukhulupirira kuti kufunikira kwa machitidwe okhazikika ndizomwe zidzayendetse mtsogolo.
"Mafakitale opanga nsalu ndi mafashoni akukakamizidwa kuti asinthe machitidwe okhazikika," adatero. "Zipanizi zimafuna kuti makampani ndi opanga awonenso njira zawo zakuthupi ndikusankha ulusi wosawononga chilengedwe. Ubweya wa ku Australia ndi wozungulira ndipo umapereka njira yothetsera chitukuko chokhazikika cha nsalu. "
Nthawi yotumiza: Oct-21-2021