M'moyo watsiku ndi tsiku, timamva nthawi zonse kuti iyi ndi plain weave, iyi ndi twill weave, iyi ndi satin weave, iyi ndi jacquard weave ndi zina zotero.Koma zoona zake n’zakuti anthu ambiri ataya mtima akamvetsera.Ndi chiyani chomwe chili chabwino pa izo?Lero, tiyeni tikambirane za makhalidwe ndi chizindikiritso cha nsalu zitatuzi.
1.Plain weave, twill weave, ndi satin ndizokhudza kapangidwe ka nsalu
Zomwe zimatchedwa plain weave, twill weave ndi satin weave (satin) zimatanthawuza kapangidwe ka nsalu.Kumbali ya kamangidwe kokha, atatuwo sali abwino kapena oyipa, koma aliyense ali ndi mikhalidwe yake chifukwa cha kusiyana kwake.
(1)Nsalu Zamba
Awa ndi mawu omwe amatanthauza nsalu ya thonje yokhotakhota yamitundu yosiyanasiyana.Izi zikuphatikizapo plain weave and plain weave variable weave, mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya thonje plain yokhotakhota yokhala ndi makulidwe ndi masitayelo osiyanasiyana.Monga: nsalu wamba, sing'anga wamba nsalu, bwino plain nsalu, gauze poplin, theka ulusi poplin, full-line poplin, hemp ulusi ndi brushed wamba nsalu, etc. Pali 65 mitundu yonse.
Ulusi wa ulusi ndi ulusi umalumikizidwa ndi ulusi wina uliwonse.Nsaluyo imakhala yolimba, yokanda, ndipo pamwamba pake ndi yosalala.Nthawi zambiri, nsalu zokometsera zapamwamba zimapangidwa ndi nsalu zomveka bwino.
Nsalu yokhotakhota imakhala ndi mfundo zambiri zolukanalukana, mawonekedwe olimba, osalala pamwamba, mawonekedwe omwewo kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo, kupepuka ndi kuonda, komanso mpweya wabwino.Kapangidwe ka plain weave kumatsimikizira kutsika kwake.Nthawi zambiri, mtengo wa nsalu yoluka ndi wotsika kwambiri.Koma palinso nsalu zowomba pang'ono zomwe zimakhala zokwera mtengo, monga nsalu zina zapamwamba kwambiri.
(2)Nsalu ya Twill
Ndi nthawi yodziwika bwino ya nsalu za thonje zomwe zimakhala ndi mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana a twill weave, kuphatikiza kusintha kwa weave ndi ma twill weave, ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu za thonje zokhala ndi mawonekedwe ndi masitayilo osiyanasiyana.Monga: ulusi wopota, ulusi wa serge, serge wa mzere, ulusi wa gabardine, gabardine wamtundu wa theka, ulusi wa khaki, khaki wamtundu wa khaki, khaki wamtundu wonse, wopukutidwa, ndi zina zotero, mitundu yonse ya 44.
Pansalu yozungulira, ulusi ndi weft amalumikizana pafupifupi ulusi uwiri uliwonse, ndiye kuti, 2/1 kapena 3/1.Kuwonjezera mfundo za warp ndi weft interweaving kuti musinthe mawonekedwe a nsalu amatchulidwa pamodzi kuti twill fabric.Makhalidwe a nsalu yotereyi ndi yokhuthala ndipo imakhala ndi mawonekedwe amphamvu atatu.Chiwerengero cha ziwerengero ndi 40, 60, etc.
(3)Nsalu za Satin
Ndilo liwu lodziwika bwino lamitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu za thonje za satin.Izi zikuphatikizapo mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu za satin ndi nsalu za satin, maonekedwe osiyanasiyana ndi masitaelo a nsalu za satin.
Ulusi ndi ulusi zimalumikizana pafupifupi ulusi uliwonse katatu.Pakati pa nsalu, kachulukidwe kake ndi kapamwamba kwambiri komanso kochuluka kwambiri, ndipo pamwamba pa nsaluyo ndi yosalala, yosasunthika, komanso yonyezimira, koma mtengo wake ndi wapamwamba kwambiri, choncho mtengo udzakhala wokwera mtengo.
Njira yoluka za satin ndi yovuta kwambiri, ndipo ulusi umodzi wokha wa ulusi wopota ndi wokhotakhota umakwirira pamwamba ngati utali woyandama.Warp satin amene amaphimba pamwamba amatchedwa warp satin;choyandama cha weft chomwe chimakwirira pamwamba chimatchedwa weft satin.Kutalika koyandama kwautali kumapangitsa pamwamba pa nsalu kukhala ndi kuwala bwino komanso kosavuta kuwonetsa kuwala.Choncho, ngati muyang'anitsitsa nsalu ya satin ya thonje, mudzamva kuwala kofooka.
Ngati ulusi wa ulusi wonyezimira bwino umagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati ulusi wautali woyandama, kuwala kwa nsalu ndi kuwunikira ku kuwala kudzakhala koonekera kwambiri.Mwachitsanzo, nsalu ya silika ya jacquard imakhala ndi silky yowala kwambiri.Ulusi wautali woyandama mu nsalu za satin umakonda kusweka, kufinya kapena ulusi womwe umatengedwa.Choncho, mphamvu ya mtundu uwu wa nsalu ndi yotsika kusiyana ndi nsalu zomveka komanso za twill.Nsalu yokhala ndi ulusi womwewo imakhala ndi kachulukidwe kakang'ono ka satin komanso wokhuthala, ndipo mtengo wake ndi wapamwamba.Njira zitatu zowomba ulusi woluka, woluka, ndi satin ndi njira zitatu zofunika kwambiri zoluka ulusi woluka.Palibe kusiyana kwapadera pakati pa zabwino ndi zoipa, koma ponena za luso, satin ndithudi ndi yabwino kwambiri ya nsalu zoyera za thonje, ndipo twill amavomerezedwa kwambiri ndi mabanja ambiri.
Zinali zotchuka ku Ulaya zaka mazana angapo zapitazo, ndipo zovala za jacquard zakhala zodziwika bwino kwa banja lachifumu ndi anthu olemekezeka kuti asonyeze ulemu ndi kukongola.Masiku ano, mitundu yolemekezeka ndi nsalu zokongola zakhala zikuwonekeratu kuti ndizovala zapamwamba zapakhomo.Nsalu ya nsalu ya jacquard imasintha ulusi ndi weft weave panthawi yoluka kuti ipange pateni, kuchuluka kwa ulusi ndikwabwino, ndipo zofunikira paziwiya ndizokwera kwambiri.Nsalu zopindika ndi zoluka za nsalu ya jacquard zimalukana ndi kusinthasintha kupanga mapangidwe osiyanasiyana.Kapangidwe kake ndi kofewa, kofewa komanso kosalala, kosalala bwino, kowoneka bwino komanso kutulutsa mpweya, komanso kuthamanga kwamtundu wapamwamba.
Nthawi yotumiza: Dec-09-2022