Choyamba, ndikufunseni funso: kodi suti imakhala ndi magawo awiri: nsalu ndi zowonjezera?
Ayi, yankho ndilolakwika.Suti imapangidwa ndi magawo atatu: nsalu, zipangizo ndi lining.
Nsalu ndi zowonjezera ndizofunikira kwambiri, koma ubwino wa suti umadalira pazitsulo, chifukwa zimagwirizanitsa zida ziwiri zosiyana kwambiri, nsalu ndi zipangizo.
Njira yotsika mtengo, yoyenera zovala ndikugwiritsa ntchito zomatira, ngakhale zonse zopangidwa ndi manja, koma kugwiritsa ntchito zomatira zomata suti zitha kukhala zosakwana 2000 yuan zotsatirazi, kutsika kwa zomatira zomatira pakapita nthawi, mupeza kuti. suti ya nsalu ndi zowonjezera sizidzagwirizananso, kukokerana wina ndi mzake, kumawoneka ngati kulekanitsa masewera.
Chovala chabwino, mwachitsanzo, suti zamalonda zopangidwa ndi YUNAI ziyenera kupangidwa ndi ubweya, nsalu ndi maneja wa akavalo. Mwachidule, zinthu zachilengedwe zimafunika. Cholinga chake ndikuthandizira nsalu za suti ndi zowonjezera kuti ziziyenda mozungulira pang'onopang'ono pamene zikuwathandiza kukonzanso.
Mbali yachiwiri: ngakhale kuti ubwino wa zipangizo zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito umakhudzidwa ndi zinthu zambiri, mtengo wa nsalu tsopano umadalira makamaka malo omwe amachokera. Mtengo wa nsalu zapakhomo umasiyana kwambiri ndi nsalu zochokera kunja, zomwe makamaka zimachokera ku Italy ndi Britain.
Nsalu zapamwamba kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi zikuphatikizapo: Ermenegildo Zegna , LORO PIANA ,VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO ,REDA ,CERRUTI 1881 , YUNAI, chomwe ndi chimphona cha ubweya wa ku Italy;Ndilonso chizindikiro cha khalidwe la ubweya.CHARLES CLAYTON, anayi otsatirawa ndi akale kwambiri ku Britain opanga ubweya wamtengo wapatali kwambiri. Mitundu yapamwamba ya nsalu za malaya ndi Britain THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO ndi zina zotero.Sitolo yodziwika bwino imakhala ndi mitundu yambiri ya masuti ndi nsalu za malaya kwenikweni ndi malo ogulitsa odziwa zambiri.
Nthawi zambiri, mafakitalewa amakhala ndi zofunika kwambiri pamiyezo yaukadaulo yamashopu achikhalidwe. Pokhapokha akafika pamiyezo yofananayo adzalola kugwiritsa ntchito nsalu zawo ndi zizindikiro zawo.Kuonjezera apo, ziribe kanthu kaya mumagwiritsa ntchito nsalu zapakhomo kapena zotumizidwa kunja, zosakanizazo ndizo ubweya, ndithudi, padzakhala zinthu zina, monga cashmere. , koma nsalu zapamwamba zimapangidwa ndi nsalu zachilengedwe osati zopangira, koma simungathe kukakamiza kwambiri nsalu zapakhomo.
1. Nsalu yaubweya yoyera yoipitsidwa
Nsalu yaubweya imatanthawuza nsalu yopangidwa ndi ubweya kapena ubweya ndi polyester, viscose, acrylic, etc.
Ubweya woipitsitsa ndi nsalu yapamwamba kwambiri yopangidwa ndi ubweya woyera ndi woyera wa nkhosa, womwe ukhoza kusakanikirana ndi gawo lina la ulusi waubweya waubweya kapena ulusi wina wachilengedwe, ndipo umakonzedwa ndi zipangizo zophatikizira, kupeta, kulemba, kupota, kuluka, kudaya ndi kumaliza. kwa nthawi zambiri.
Zimakhala ndi kusinthasintha kwabwino kwakuti ubweya wa nyama umakhala wachilendo, kugonana kofewa, kugonana kosiyana kwambiri ndi kugonana kosagwirizana ndi kugonana, pamene amamwa chinyontho kapena thukuta lakuthwa kuti likhalebe lofunda.
Zovala zokonzeka zopangidwa ndi nsalu zabwino zaubweya zimakhala zolimba ndipo sizidzapunduka kwa nthawi yayitali. Amakhala osamala kwambiri chifukwa cha kusowa kwa aurora. Zimakhala zosalala komanso zosalala, zowoneka bwino, zowoneka bwino komanso zowoneka bwino, zolumikizana, zachikale, zofewa komanso zachilengedwe zonyezimira ndi zina zotero.
Otchedwa woipitsitsa ndi ubweya, anayesa kufotokoza, kuchokera ngodya awiri mmodzi ali pamwamba CHIKWANGWANI, wina ndi kuluka, CHIKWANGWANI kupota ndi 32 ndipo pamwamba 40, kuwerengera CHIKWANGWANI cha yosalala, zochepa mfundo, zachilengedwe mkulu kachulukidwe, kukana bwino kwa abrasion, chitonthozo chabwino, china ndi choluka, nsalu yowongoka bwino yoluka ndi makina abwino ansalu, kupewa kuthyoka kwa ulusi, digiri yolimba ndiyokwera, nsalu yaubweya, yolumikizana, yosavuta kuthyoka, zachilengedwe kuvala kukana kusiyana, kachulukidwe si zabwino.
Nsalu zoyera zaubweya zimakhala zopyapyala, zosalala komanso zowoneka bwino.
Thupi ndi losalala, lofewa komanso lotanuka.
Gwirani zakuthupi pambuyo kumasula, kwenikweni palibe pindani, ngakhale pali pang'ono crease akhoza kutha mu nthawi yochepa kwambiri.
Chizindikiritso cha nsalu yoyera ya ubweya:
Nsalu zaubweya zoyera zokhala ndi mtundu wofewa wachilengedwe komanso kutentha kwabwino ndiko kusankha koyamba kopangira ma suti apamwamba komanso ma overcoats.
Koma tsopano nsalu zambiri zaubweya, monga kusintha kwa teknoloji ya nsalu, zafika pamlingo wa makasitomala ovuta kuzindikira, koma mtundu, kutentha, kumva ndi zina zotero ndizochepa kwambiri kuposa nsalu zoyera za ubweya.
Zotsatirazi zikuwonetsa njira zingapo zodziwira nsalu zoyera zaubweya, kuti mufotokozere posankha zovala ndi ufa.
Choyamba, kukhudza.
Nsalu zaubweya zoyera nthawi zambiri zimakhala zosalala, nsalu zazitali zaubweya pamodzi ndi kumveka kosalala, kutsitsimuka kwa tsitsi.
Chachiwiri, yang'anani mtundu wake.
Mtundu wa nsalu zoyera za ubweya ndi zofewa komanso zachilengedwe, zowala komanso zopanda nthawi. Mosiyana ndi zimenezi, zosakanikirana kapena zoyera za fiber fiber pamwamba, kapena luster ndi mdima, kapena kukhala ndi chidziwitso.
Chachitatu, yang'anani elasticity.
Gwirani nsalu mwamphamvu ndi dzanja, kenaka mutulutseni nthawi yomweyo kuti muwone momwe nsaluyo ilili. Ubweya waubweya umakhala wokwera kwambiri, ukhoza kubwezeretsa mwamsanga ku chikhalidwe chake choyambirira, ndikusakaniza kapena mankhwala amtundu wa fiber, kukana makwinya kumakhala kovutirapo, ambiri mwa zizindikiro zoonekeratu makwinya, kapena kuchira pang'onopang'ono.
Chachinayi. Chizindikiro cha kuyaka.
Tengani mulu wa ulusi, gwiritsani ntchito moto, ulusi woyera wa ubweya kununkhiza ngati tsitsi loyaka, fungo la mankhwala apulasitiki ngati pulasitiki yoyaka.Tizidutswa tating'onoting'ono timakhala titatha kuyaka, zimakhala ndi zigawo zambiri za mankhwala.
1.Single muzu chizindikiritso.
Tsitsi pansi pa maikulosikopu kuona nyama zonse ndi mamba, ngati ndi yaitali tsitsi nsalu malinga ndi kutenga tsitsi ngati pamwamba anaika kangapo adzasuntha mmwamba kapena pansi (kudziŵa luso limeneli akhoza kutenga tsitsi kuchokera kuyesera woyamba), ngati ndi yachibadwa nsalu, yopezera muzu ulusi, kudula 2 masentimita awiri ndime mu ulusi umodzi pansi pa dzanja opaka anayi kapena asanu, iwo sakanati kusuntha.
2. Nsalu zosakanikirana za ubweya ndi polyester
Nsalu zosakanikirana za ubweya, zomwe ndi cashmere, poliyesitala, spandex, tsitsi la kalulu ndi ulusi wina ndi ubweya wosakaniza nsalu. nsalu yotayirira, pafupifupi palibe makwinya.
Njira yozungulira, yopingasa, kachulukidwe ka Warp
- Mayendedwe a nsalu kutalika;
Ulusi wa m’mbali umatchedwa ulusi wopingasa;
Chiwerengero cha ulusi wokonzedwa mkati mwa 1 inch ndi warp density;
Kuwongolera kwa Weft, kudzaza ndi kudzaza kachulukidwe
- Mayendedwe a nsalu m'lifupi;
Ulusiwo umatchedwa weft, ndipo chiwerengero cha ulusi mkati mwa inchi ndi kuchulukana kwa weft.
Kuchulukana
- Amagwiritsidwa ntchito kuyimira kuchuluka kwa ulusi pautali wa nsalu ya shuttle, nthawi zambiri kuchuluka kwa ulusi mkati mwa 1 inchi kapena 10 centimita. Miyezo ya dziko la China imanena kuti kuchuluka kwa ulusi mkati mwa masentimita 10 kumagwiritsidwa ntchito kuyimira kachulukidwe, koma mabizinesi opangira nsalu amagwiritsabe ntchito kuchuluka kwa ulusi mkati mwa inchi imodzi kuyimira kachulukidwe.
Mwachitsanzo, zowoneka bwino "45×45/108×58" zimatanthawuza ulusi 45 wokhotakhota ndi ulusi wopingasa wokhala ndi kachulukidwe ka 108 ndi 58 motsatana.
M'lifupi
- M'lifupi mwake mwansalu nthawi zambiri amawonetsedwa mu mainchesi kapena ma centimita. Zomwe zimafanana ndi mainchesi 36, mainchesi 44, mainchesi 56-60, ndi zina zambiri, zomwe zimatchedwa yopapatiza, yapakatikati ndi yayikulu, motsatana. Nsalu zotalika kuposa mainchesi 60 ndizokulirapo, zomwe nthawi zambiri zimatchedwa nsalu zotambalala.
M'lifupi mwake nthawi zambiri amalembedwa kumbuyo kwa kachulukidwe. Mwachitsanzo, ngati nsalu yotchulidwa mu: 3 ikuwonjezeredwa ndi m'lifupi, idzawonetsedwa ngati "45×45/108×58/60" ", mwachitsanzo, m'lifupi mwake ndi 60 mainchesi.
Kulemera
- Kulemera kwa gramu ya nsalu nthawi zambiri ndi gramu ya kulemera kwa nsalu mu masikweya mita. Kulemera kwa gramu ndi chizindikiro chofunikira chaukadaulo cha nsalu zoluka, ndipo kulemera kwa gramu nthawi zambiri kumatengedwa ngati chizindikiro chofunikira chaukadaulo cha nsalu zaubweya.
Kulemera kwa gramu ya denim nthawi zambiri kumawonetsedwa ngati "OZ", ndiye kuti, kuchuluka kwa ma ounces a nsalu yolemera pa sikweya yadi, monga ma ounces 7, ma ounces 12 a denim, ndi zina zambiri.
Wopaka utoto
Ku Japan, amatchedwa "nsalu yopaka utoto", yomwe imatanthawuza njira yopaka utoto kapena ulusi ndikuluka nsaluyo ndi ulusi wamitundu. Nsalu yamtunduwu imatchedwa "nsalu yopaka utoto". Mafakitale opangira nsalu zopaka utoto nthawi zambiri amatchedwa kuti mafakitale opaka utoto ndi kuwomba nsalu, monga ma denim, ndipo nsalu zambiri za malaya amapaka utoto.
3. Nsalu zosakanikirana za ubweya ndi viscose
Kuwala ndi mdima.
Kumverera koipitsitsa kumakhala kofooka, pamene ubweya wa ubweya umakhala womasuka.
Nsalu yamtunduwu imakhala yochepa kwambiri komanso yonyezimira kusiyana ndi ubweya woyera ndi polyester, ubweya wonyezimira wosakanikirana.
Nsalu zoyera ngati nsalu zachikhalidwe za viscose, ulusi waubweya wochita kupanga monga zida zopangira nsalu ngati ubweya, kuwala kowoneka bwino, kumva kofewa, kusamva bwino. njira yothandiza yodziwira nsalu ya viscose yomwe mphamvu ya ulusi wotengedwa munsaluyo mwachiwonekere imachepa pamene imakhala yonyowa kusiyana ndi yowuma. Ndikupita patsogolo kwa sayansi ndi luso lamakono, kutsanzira ubweya wa ubweya mu mtundu, kumva, durability wakhalanso.
Mitundu Yaikulu:
Tsitsi la Kalulu
Nthawi zambiri, gawo lina la ubweya wa akalulu ndi ubweya umasakanizidwa ndikuwombedwa. Makhalidwe a sweti ya akalulu ali mu ulusi wake wabwino, wosalala komanso wofewa, kugona mofewa komanso kosalala, komanso kusinthasintha kwabwino. Ndiwomasuka komanso mwachibadwa kuvala, ndipo kugona pamtunda wapakati kumakhala kosavuta kugwa.
Ngati njira yoyamba kupanga sweti ndiyeno utoto (ie kuluka ndiyeno kupaka utoto) imatengedwa, mtundu ndi kuwala kudzakhala koyera komanso kokongola, kokhala ndi latisi yapadera, makamaka yoyenera zovala zakunja zazikazi.
Tsitsi la Chemical
Chofala kwambiri pa zovala ndi kupepuka kwake.
Khalani ngati malaya a acrylic, kuluka ndi ulusi wochuluka wa acrylic, mawonekedwe ake a ubweya amamveka amphamvu, mtundu ndi kunyezimira, mtundu wa chinthu ndi kuwala kofewa, kuchuluka kwa chinyezi ndi 0-4.5% kokha, mphamvu yopuma ya fiber ndi yayitali kuposa ulusi wa ubweya, sangachite njenjete, koma kusinthasintha kwake kumabwezeretsedwanso kutsika kuposa ubweya, sungani kugonana kotentha kuposa sweti yaubweya, mtengo wake ndi wotsika mtengo, koma mapiritsi osavuta, oyenera ana zovala.
Posachedwa, msika wapadziko lonse wa acrylic, polyamide fiber blended ulusi, ulusi wosinthika wa acrylic kutsanzira mohair, wake kukhala majuzi amatha kufanana ndi tsitsi la kalulu, zovala za mohair.
Tsitsi lanyama losakanikirana ndi ulusi wamankhwala
Ili ndi "makhalidwe ofananira" atsitsi lanyama ndi ulusi wamankhwala osiyanasiyana, ndipo mawonekedwe ake ndi aubweya, mphamvu yotalikirapo imakhala bwino, ndipo mtengo wa sweti umachepetsedwa. Ndi mankhwala abwino komanso otsika mtengo.
Koma mu juzi losakanizidwa, pali vuto loti utoto wake si wabwino chifukwa cha mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya utoto komanso kuyamwa kwamitundu yamitundu yosiyanasiyana ya ulusi.
4. Zinthu zopangidwa ndi ubweya wa ubweya
Anthu a ku Britain ndiwo anali oyamba kuphunzira za kuchotsa mapuloteni kuchokera ku guluu wa nyama kupanga ulusi wopangira mapuloteni.
Mu 1935, anthu ena ku Italy anayesa kuchotsa tchizi kuchokera ku mkaka kuti apange ubweya wochita kupanga.
Kuyambira nthawi imeneyo, mayiko ena akhala akuchita bwino popanga ulusi wopangidwa ndi soya ndi mapuloteni a mtedza.
Chifukwa cha zovuta zakugwiritsa ntchito komanso mtengo wopangira ulusi woterewu, kupanga kumakhala kochepa.
YUNAI dim, kusowa kwa khirisipi kumverera, chifukwa elasticity osauka, zosavuta kuoneka zou Pindani, ndi kosavuta kutha.
Pali mitundu iwiri ya ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu: ulusi wopangidwanso ndi mankhwala. Ulusi wopangidwanso ndi ulusi wa viscose wopangidwa kuchokera kumitengo ndi udzu wopangidwa ndi mankhwala.
Chemical fiber ndi ulusi wopangidwa kuchokera ku petroleum, gasi wachilengedwe, malasha ndi zinthu zaulimi.
Malinga ndi mawonekedwe ndi kagwiritsidwe ntchito ka ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu, pali mitundu itatu: rayon, rayon ndi ubweya.
Mitundu yofunikira ili ndi ulusi wa viscose, ulusi wa acetate, ulusi wa ammonia wamkuwa ndi zina zotero.
CHIKWANGWANI obadwanso angathe kugawidwa mu regenerated mapadi CHIKWANGWANI, mapadi Ester CHIKWANGWANI, mapuloteni CHIKWANGWANI ndi zina chilengedwe polima CHIKWANGWANI.
Makhalidwe ake poyerekeza ndi ulusi wamankhwala, ulusi wamba.
Nsalu zopangidwa ndi anthu zimaloza ku viscose fiber filament ndi nsalu zazikulu, zomwe ndi thonje lopangidwa ndi anthu lomwe anthu amalidziwa, rayon etc.
Kuphatikiza apo, imaphatikizansopo gawo la nsalu zolemera za ulusi ndi nsalu zazitali zazitali za ulusi pakati pa ulusi ndi ulusi.
Choncho, katundu wa nsalu ulusi wa anthu makamaka anatsimikiza ndi katundu viscose ulusi.
Nsalu za Rayon ndi rayon ndizofewa pokhudza, zopuma komanso zomasuka kuvala, komanso zamitundu yowala.
Nsalu zopangidwa ndi anthu zimakhala ndi hygroscopicity yabwino, ndipo hygroscopicity yake ndi yabwino kwambiri mu fiber mankhwala. asanadulidwe anali bwino.
Nsalu ya viscose wamba imakhala ndi mawonekedwe abwino, kuuma kosalimba, kusasunthika komanso kukana makwinya, kotero chovala chake sichimasunga mawonekedwe bwino ndipo chimakonda makwinya.
Nsalu ya viscose fiber imakhala ndi asidi wabwino komanso kukana kwa alkali, kukana kuwala kwa dzuwa ndi kukana mankhwala ena.
5.Pure mankhwala CHIKWANGWANI ubweya ngati zakuthupi
Nthawi zambiri, ulusi wopangira umagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chinthu chachikulu, ulusi wopangira kapena silika wachikuda ngati ulusi wothandiza, ndipo ulusi wina wopangidwa ndi buku umagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chinthu chachikulu, chokhala ndi nsalu yoyenera. Nsalu yamtunduwu ili ndi mitundu iwiri ya nsungwi, mawonekedwe achilengedwe.
Ali ndi mawonekedwe achilengedwe a ulusi wachilengedwe.
Nsaluyo imakhala yowala bwino, yowoneka bwino, yonyezimira komanso yotanuka, yoyenera kwa anthu.
Chemical fiber ubweya, wamba khalidwe la zovala ndi opepuka.
Khalani ngati malaya a acrylic, kuluka ndi ulusi wochuluka wa acrylic, mawonekedwe ake a ubweya amamveka amphamvu, mtundu ndi kunyezimira, mtundu wa chinthu ndi kuwala kofewa, kuchuluka kwa chinyezi ndi 0-4.5% kokha, mphamvu yopuma ya fiber ndi yayitali kuposa ulusi wa ubweya, sangachite njenjete, koma kusinthasintha kwake kumabwezeretsedwanso kutsika kuposa ubweya, sungani kugonana kotentha kuposa sweti yaubweya, mtengo wake ndi wotsika mtengo, koma mapiritsi osavuta, oyenera ana zovala.
Posachedwapa, msika wapadziko lonse wa acrylic, poly-amide fiber blended ulusi, ulusi wosinthidwa wa acrylic kutsanzira mohair, ake mu malaya amatha kufanana ndi tsitsi la kalulu, zovala za mohair.
Tsitsi lanyama ndi ubweya waubweya wosakanikirana, wokhala ndi tsitsi lanyama zosiyanasiyana ndi "makhalidwe owonjezera", mawonekedwe ake amakhala ndi ubweya wa ubweya, mphamvu ya elongation imakhala bwino, kuchepetsa mtengo wa sweti, ndi yotsika mtengo komanso yabwino.
Koma mu juzi losakanizidwa, pali vuto loti mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya ulusi imakhala ndi utoto wosiyanasiyana komanso kuthekera kotengera mtundu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti utoto ukhale wosakhala bwino.
Kusiyanitsa pakati pa zinthu zopangidwa ndi ubweya waubweya ndi nsalu zoyera:
Nsalu zokhala ngati ubweya nthawi zambiri zimapangidwa ndi ulusi wamankhwala, ndipo ulusi wa viscose ndi wochulukirapo, monga polyester/viscose sing'anga ubweya wautali, poliyesitala weniweni ndi zinthu zina zonga ubweya.
Choyamba, gloss ndi yosiyana.
Nsalu zaubweya waubweya nthawi zambiri zimakhala zofewa komanso zachilengedwe, zokhala ndi mtundu wosakongola kwambiri. Chemical fiber kutsanzira ubweya nsalu ndi wolemera mu mtundu ndi yowala. Ngati muyang'anitsitsa pansi pa dzuwa, nthawi zambiri mumawona kuwala kowala komanso kowala.
Mfundo iyi yotsanzira ubweya wozizira kuti ufanane ndi ubweya wa ubweya ukhozanso kukhala wosadziwika.
Chachiwiri, kumverera ndi elasticity ndizosiyana.
Nsalu zaubweya zoyera zimamveka zofewa, zonyezimira pang'ono, fupa la thupi, zokwinya pang'ono koma osati zolimba, zofewa koma zosawongoka;
Pamene poliyesitala, ubweya ngati maonekedwe, koma ofewa ndi yosalala kumva, palibe thupi fupa, makwinya kwambiri, wosakwiya rebound.
Chachitatu, kutentha silika pambuyo kujambula.
Ulusi woyera wa ubweya wa ubweya ukhoza kuwonedwa pambuyo pa kusagwirizana kwa ulusi wa ubweya, kutalika kosiyana, kupindika kwachilengedwe, ndi viscose kutsanzira ubweya wa ubweya wa ubweya ulusi ulusi, makulidwe yunifolomu sagwirizana.
Pambuyo kuyaka, moto ukayaka pang'onopang'ono, kusiya moto ukupitirirabe kuyaka, tsitsi limodzi ndi fungo, phulusa, wakuda crispy kyubu, kupotoza ndi kukhala ufa kwa nsalu zoyera ubweya, ndipo pafupi ndi moto ukuyaka, kuyaka mofulumira. , lawi lachikasu, kutentha kwachitsulo, phulusa losavuta kuuluka, lotuwa, loyera ndi kusiya chovuta kuphwanya mtanda wa poliyesitala/viscose.
Zimasiyanso chotupa chakuda chikapsa.
Kuchokera pawiri kapena ziwiri kapena kupitilirapo kapena kuphatikizika kwa nsalu zophatikizika: ubweya / viscose, ubweya / poliyesitala, ubweya / silika, ubweya / viscose / spandex, ndi zina zotero, sizimangofunika kugwira mwamphamvu mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya mawonekedwe a ulusi ndi katundu, ndi njira yogwiritsira ntchito chizindikiritso cha ulusi wambiri, kuyambira kuyang'ananso, kuyaka moto mpaka mayeso pambuyo pa mayeso, imatha kufika pamapeto.
6.Ubweya wa Mercerized
Ubweya wa Mercerizing ndi zinthu wamba waubweya pambuyo pa mankhwala ndi chithandizo chamankhwala, kuwononga ulusi wa ubweya wa ubweya, komanso kudzera mwa woyesa mankhwala, kumapangitsa ubweya kukhala wosalala, wonyezimira, wosasunthika pochapa, woyenera madiresi aukwati.
Ubweya wa Mercerizing ndi chithandizo cha zinthu zaubweya munjira ya mercerizing ya utoto wa ubweya ndi kumaliza.
Ubweya uyenera kutsukidwa ndi Basolan DC kapena kuthandizidwa ndi protease kuti uwononge masikelo a ubweya wa ubweya ndi kuchepetsa kusiyana pakati pa friction coefficient panthawi ya kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo kwa ubweya wa ubweya. Pambuyo pa mankhwalawa, kuwala kwa ubweya kumawonjezeka, komwe kumadziwika kuti ubweya wa mercerized.
Ubweya wa mercerized ukhoza kupangidwa kuchokera ku ubweya wangwiro kapena wosakanizidwa.
Zinthu zazikuluzikulu ndi anti-shrinkage, makina - ochapira, anti - pilling.
Ukadaulo waubweya wopangidwa ndi mercerized unayambika pakati pa zaka za m'ma 1990, ndiukadaulo watsopano wopaka utoto komanso womaliza wopangidwa pamaziko aukadaulo waukadaulo waubweya wa chlorination ndi shrinkage kupewa.
Nsalu zaubweya zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito zimakhala ndi cashmere komanso zonyezimira.
Chifukwa cha makhalidwe amenewa, ubweya mercerizing mankhwala mwamsanga anatchuka.
Mpaka pano, ubweya wa mercerized wakhala wotchuka kwambiri, gawo la msika ladutsa kuchuluka kwa ubweya wamba.
Pali malingaliro osiyanasiyana a ubweya wa mercerized ku China ndi mayiko ena padziko lapansi. Ku China, ubweya wochotsedwa phosphorous umatchedwa ubweya wa mercerized, pamene ubweya wa nkhosa wapadziko lonse umawotchedwa mu nthunzi yotentha, ndipo umatambasulidwa ndi 30% ~ 50%. Kenako, atazizidwa ndi madzi ozizira ndi kuumbidwa, ubweya wankhosa wautali ndi woonda umatchedwa ubweya wa mercerized.
7. Ubweya
Ubweya nthawi zambiri umatchedwa ubweya wa ubweya.
Ulusi waubweya ndi mamolekyu a mapuloteni osakanikirana, maonekedwe a mawonekedwe apadera a mawonekedwe olimba a nyanga, ophimbidwa mwamphamvu, mawonekedwe a flake ndi ochepa kwambiri, ubwino wake ndi kuteteza dothi mu ulusi, kotero, zovala zaubweya sizikhala zodetsedwa mosavuta.
Oyeretsa owuma nthawi zambiri amakumana ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu akamachapa, komanso zovala zaubweya ndizofala.
Chifukwa chomwe ubweya umatulutsa kuwala kowala ndi:
(1) Chosanjikiza cha nyanga pamwamba pa ulusi waubweya chimavalidwa pang’ono;
(2) Fumbi ndi dothi zimapaka pang'onopang'ono ndikumamatira ku groove, kotero kuti pamwamba pa nsaluyo imakhala yosalala, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti kuwala kuwonekere, zomwe zimapangitsa kuwala kowala.
Njira zochotsera kuwala:
(1) Mkatewo ukhoza kuupindika kukhala ufa ndi kuuyala m’kuunika, ndi chitsulo kukhala chitsulo;
(2) Pickling: zilowerere acetic asidi njira ndi ndende ya 3-5% ndi kutentha 50 ℃ kwa mphindi 3-5, ndiye muzimutsuka ndi madzi oyera.
Viniga woyera angagwiritsidwenso ntchito.
(3) Tsukani ndi burashi posamba.
CHIKWANGWANI ndi chilengedwe CHIKWANGWANI, ndi zotsatira za mbewu mbewu, zimayambira ndi masamba ndi ulusi mankhwala ambiri alibe khalidwe, jini zambiri hydrophilic mu thonje CHIKWANGWANI, hygroscopicity zabwino, kuvala thukuta mayamwidwe, mpweya permeability, omasuka, ndi hemp ndi ozizira ozizira. , kufewa, osati kumamatira ku makhalidwe omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pamakampani opanga zovala, olandiridwa ndi ogula.
Ubwino: zofewa ndi zotanuka m'manja, zofewa ndi zachilengedwe zowala, zofewa komanso zokongola kuvala, kumverera kwapamwamba, kuyamwa kwabwino kwa chinyezi, kuwongolera kutentha, kuteteza bwino kutentha, kukana kwa crease, makamaka pambuyo pokonza zovala ndi kusita bwino. mawonekedwe ndi chitetezo cha mawonekedwe a chovala;
Zindikirani: Kutentha kochapira sikuyenera kukhala kokwera kwambiri, osapaka kapena kupotoza kuti musatengeke ndi dzuwa.
Pokanikizira: Kunyowetsa kusita, kusita zinthu kuuma kumbali ina.
Zoyipa zake: alkali - osamva, kuchucha, kosavuta kukwinya.
8. Nsalu za ubweya-polyester
Nsalu yaubweya wa poliyesitala (wool-polyester) : Nsalu zopangidwa kuchokera ku ubweya wa ubweya ndi ulusi wosakanikirana wa poliyesitala, mtundu wodziwika kwambiri wa nsalu za ubweya wa ubweya.
Nsalu yopangidwa kuchokera ku ubweya wa ubweya ndi ulusi wosakanikirana wa polyester.
Chiŵerengero chofala cha kusakaniza kwa ubweya-polyester ndi 45∶55, zomwe sizingangowonjezera ubwino wa ubweya, komanso kupereka masewera athunthu kuti apindule ndi polyester.
Pafupifupi nsalu zonse zowoneka bwino komanso zoipitsitsa zimakhala ndi mitundu yofananira ya ubweya wa polyester.
Pakati pawo, nsalu yopyapyala ya ubweya wa ubweya-polyester yopyapyala yomwe imatchedwanso kuti yoziziritsa, yomwe imadziwika kuti ubweya wozizira kwambiri, ndiyomwe imawonetsa kwambiri mawonekedwe osakanikirana a ubweya wa polyester a imodzi mwa nsaluzo.
Pali maulendo awiri othawirako ndi ma weft, owirikiza kawiri, omwe ali ndi ply-ply warp ndi single-ply warp ndi weft.
Nthawi zambiri ndi 50 ~ 70 amuna awiri chingwe, nsalu woonda ndi 100 ~ 120 amuna awiri chingwe.
Kulemera kwa nsalu ndi pafupifupi 170 ~ 190 g/m2.
Poyerekeza ndi ubweya wa ubweya wa ubweya, ubweya-polyester woonda tweed ndi wopepuka komanso wopepuka, wokhala ndi makwinya abwino, olimba komanso osavala, osavuta kutsuka, ofulumira kuuma, okhazikika, okhazikika mu kukula, koma osati osalala ngati ubweya.
Ngati ntchito kuwala poliyesitala monga zopangira, pamwamba silika luster.
Ngati ubweya wapadera wa nyama monga ubweya wa cashmere kapena ngamila umagwiritsidwa ntchito posakaniza, umakhala woterera komanso womamatira.
Chiŵerengero chofala cha kusakaniza kwa ubweya-polyester ndi 45:55, chomwe sichikhoza kusunga ubwino wa ubweya, komanso kupereka kusewera kwa ubwino wa poliyesitala.
Ubwino: ubweya wosakanikirana ndi poliyesitala, wopepuka komanso wopepuka, magwiridwe antchito abwino obwezeretsa makwinya.
Chokhazikika, chosavuta kuchapa ndi kuuma, chokhazikika mu kukula, cholimba mu tuck
Kuchapira: zilowerere ndi madzi ozizira kwa mphindi 15 choyamba, ndiye kusamba ndi ambiri kupanga detergent, kusamba madzi kutentha sayenera upambana madigiri 45, kolala, khafu malo zauve angagwiritse ntchito zofewa ubweya burashi kuti burashi mofatsa, pambuyo kuyeretsa woyera, akhoza kupotoza mokoma; kugula ozizira mpweya wodutsa mpweya, osati kudzipatula, sayenera zouma, kuwopa chifukwa kucha kuchititsa makwinya.
9.T/R nsalu
Ndi chimodzi mwa zinthu za nsalu za T / R kuti apange jekete yoyimirira ya kolala, jekete lapel ndi kuvala wamba ndi kuchuluka kwa plaid kapena mizere, flash kapena monochrome T / R nsalu.
T / R nsalu ndi polyester viscose blended fabric.Polyester viscose blended ndi mtundu wa complimentary blend.Polyester viscose osati thonje, ubweya, ndi sing'anga - yaitali.Nsalu yaubweya yomwe imadziwika kuti "basi yofulumira".Pamene polyester si yocheperapo kuposa 50%, mtundu uwu wa nsalu blended akhoza kusunga poliyesitala olimba, makwinya kugonjetsedwa, kukula khola, zotsuka ndi kuvala makhalidwe amphamvu.Kusakaniza kwa viscose fiber kumapangitsa kuti mpweya ukhale wokwanira wa nsalu ndi kukana kusungunuka kwa dzenje.Kupiritsa ndi antistatic phenomena ya nsalu inachepetsedwa.
Gwiritsani ntchito 65/35 kapena 67/33 pa polyester / viscid-blend ratio.Polyester / viscose blend ndi ofanana ndi polyester / viscose.Makhalidwe a mtundu uwu wa nsalu zosakanikirana ndi zosalala ndi zoyera, zowala, mawonekedwe a ubweya wamphamvu, dzanja labwino. elasticity, mayamwidwe abwino chinyezi; Koma muyaya ndi osauka.
Ubwino wake: olimba, osagwirizana ndi makwinya, saizi yokhazikika, yochapitsidwa komanso kuvala.
Ikhoza kusintha mpweya permeability wa nsalu, kuchepetsa pilling ndi antistatic chodabwitsa.
Malo ochapira: Makina ochapira amatha kugwiritsidwa ntchito, osapaka ndi burashi, kuti mupewe mapiritsi, kuyanika mbali inayo.
10. High-density NC
Nsalu yolimba kwambiri ya NC ndi mtundu wa nsalu zosakanikirana kapena zolukana ndi poly-amide (nayiloni) ndi thonje.
Mankhwalawa amaphatikiza ubwino wa nayiloni ndi thonje.
Kutha kuvala kwa nayiloni kumakhala koyamba pakati pa ulusi wachilengedwe ndi ulusi wamankhwala. Mayamwidwe a chinyezi cha nayiloni ndiabwino kuposa a poliyesitala, ndipo kuvala kwake kutonthoza ndi utoto wake ndikwabwino kuposa kwa polyester. Choncho, kuyamwa kwa chinyezi ndi kuvala chitonthozo cha ulusi wa thonje sikungachepetsedwe kapena kusakanikirana ndi thonje.
Nylon ili ndi elasticity yabwino kwambiri. Pambuyo pa kusakaniza kapena kulumikiza ndi thonje la thonje, kusungunuka kwa nsalu kumakhala bwino.
Kuipa kwa nsalu ya NC ndi: chifukwa cha nayiloni yomwe imakhudzidwa ndi kuphatikizika kapena kusakanikirana, kukana kutentha ndi kukana kuwala kwa nsalu kumakhala kovutirapo, tcherani khutu kuchapa ndi kusita pamene mukugwiritsa ntchito kukwaniritsa zikhalidwe, kuti mupewe kuwonongeka.
Mawonekedwe ake odziwika kwambiri: osavuta kuvala, ofewa komanso omasuka, osavuta kuyeretsa.
Osawotcha padzuwa, osapsa mtima.
Malo ochapira: Osaumitsa bwino, aunika mumdima.
Njira yokonza: musavale nyengo, bwererani ku thumba la pulasitiki lathyathyathya.
Nthawi yotumiza: Mar-01-2021