Cov lus tshaj tawm los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom yog nrov thiab meej: nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb tom qab kis thoob ntiaj teb, kev nplij siab thiab kev ua tau zoo yog qhov lawv nrhiav. Fabric manufacturers tau hnov qhov kev hu no thiab tau teb rau ntau yam ntaub ntawv thiab cov khoom lag luam kom tau raws li cov kev xav tau no.
Tau ntau xyoo lawm, cov ntaub ntawv ua tau zoo tau ua cov khoom tseem ceeb hauv kev ua kis las thiab cov khaub ncaws sab nraum zoov, tab sis tam sim no tag nrho cov khoom los ntawm cov txiv neej lub tsho ua si rau cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws yog siv cov ntaub nrog cov yam ntxwv ntawm kev ua haujlwm: ya raws wicking, deodorization, txias, thiab lwm yam.
Ib tug ntawm cov thawj coj nyob rau hauv qhov kawg ntawm kev ua lag luam yog Schoeller, ib lub tuam txhab Swiss yos rov qab mus rau 1868. Stephen Kerns, tus thawj tswj hwm ntawm Schoeller USA, tau hais tias niaj hnub no cov neeg siv khoom tab tom nrhiav cov khaub ncaws uas tuaj yeem ua tau raws li ntau yam kev xav tau.
"Lawv xav ua kom zoo, thiab lawv kuj xav tau ntau yam," nws hais. "Cov khw muag khoom sab nrauv tau mus rau qhov ntawd tsis ntev dhau los, tab sis tam sim no peb pom kev thov rau [ntau hom khaub ncaws tsoos tsho]." Txawm hais tias Schoeller "tau cuam tshuam nrog cov lag luam hla ciam teb xws li Bonobos, Txoj Kev Xav, Brooks Cov Kwv Tij thiab Ralph Lauren," nws hais tias qhov tshiab "kev sib tw kis las" no tau los ntawm kev ua kis las thiab kev lom zem ua rau muaj kev txaus siab rau cov ntaub nrog cov yam ntxwv.
Thaum Lub Rau Hli, Schoeller tau tshaj tawm ntau yam tshiab ntawm nws cov khoom rau lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav xyoo 2023, suav nrog Dryskin, uas yog ob txoj kev ncab ntaub ua los ntawm cov khoom siv polyester thiab Ecorepel Bio technology. Nws tuaj yeem thauj cov dej noo thiab tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj. Nws tuaj yeem siv rau kev ua kis las thiab khaub ncaws ua neej nyob.
Raws li lub tuam txhab, lub tuam txhab tau hloov kho nws Schoeller Shape, cov paj rwb sib xyaw ua los ntawm cov khoom siv polyamide uas ua haujlwm zoo sib npaug ntawm cov kev kawm ntaus golf thiab cov kev hauv nroog. Nws muaj ob-tone nyhuv reminiscent ntawm qub denim thiab 3XDry Bio technology. Tsis tas li ntawd, kuj tseem muaj Softight ripstop npuag, tsim rau cov ris tsho ua los ntawm cov khoom siv polyamide, ua nrog Ecorepel Bio thev naus laus zis, nrog rau qib siab ntawm cov dej thiab stain tsis kam, PFC-dawb, thiab raws li cov ntaub ntawv raw khoom siv dua tshiab.
Kerns tau hais tias "Koj tuaj yeem siv cov ntaub no hauv qab, sab saum toj thiab lub tsho," "Koj tuaj yeem ntes tau hauv cov xuab zeb, thiab cov khoom yuav tsis lo rau nws."
Kerns tau hais tias ntau tus neeg tau ntsib qhov kev hloov pauv loj vim yog kev hloov pauv hauv txoj kev ua neej los ntawm kev sib kis, yog li qhov no yog "lub sijhawm wardrobe loj" rau cov khaub ncaws uas tuaj yeem ncav cuag yam tsis muaj kev zoo nkauj.
Alexa Raab, Sorona tus thawj coj ntawm kev tsim khoom lag luam thoob ntiaj teb thiab kev sib txuas lus, pom zoo tias Sorona yog bio-based polymer ua haujlwm siab los ntawm DuPont, ua los ntawm 37% cov khoom xyaw txuas ntxiv dua tshiab. Cov ntaub ua los ntawm Sorona muaj qhov elasticity ntev thiab yog ib qho kev hloov rau spandex. Lawv sib xyaw nrog paj rwb, ntaub plaub, txhob lo lo ntxhuav thiab lwm yam fibers. Lawv kuj muaj wrinkle tsis kam thiab zoo li qub zog, uas yuav txo tau bagging thiab pilling, cia cov neeg tau txais kev pab khaws lawv cov khaub ncaws ntev.
Qhov no kuj qhia txog lub tuam txhab nrhiav kev ruaj ntseg. Sorona blended fabrics tau txais ntawv pov thawj los ntawm lub tuam txhab Common Thread certification program, uas tau tsim tawm xyoo tas los los xyuas kom meej tias lawv cov koom tes koom tes ua tau raws li cov txheej txheem tseem ceeb ntawm lawv cov ntaub: ntev elasticity, zoo li qub, kho yooj yim, softness thiab breathability. Txog tam sim no, muaj txog 350 lub Hoobkas tau lees paub.
"Cov neeg tsim khoom siv fiber ntau tuaj yeem siv Sorona polymers los tsim ntau cov qauv tshwj xeeb uas ua kom muaj ntau yam ntaub ntawv los nthuav tawm cov khoom sib txawv, los ntawm wrinkle-resistant outerwear fabrics mus rau lub teeb yuag thiab breathable rwb thaiv tsev cov khoom, mus tas li stretching thiab rov qab, thiab tus tshiab Sorona dag fur , " Renee Henze, Tus Thawj Coj Kev Lag Luam Ntiaj Teb ntawm DuPont Biomaterials.
"Peb pom tias tib neeg xav tau khaub ncaws zoo dua, tab sis kuj xav ua kom haum nrog cov tuam txhab uas muaj kev ncaj ncees thiab muaj lub luag haujlwm ntawm cov ntaub," Raab ntxiv. Sorona tau ua tiav hauv kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov khoom siv hauv tsev thiab siv rau hauv cov ntaub qhwv. Thaum Lub Ob Hlis, lub tuam txhab tau koom tes nrog Thindown, thawj zaug thiab tsuas yog 100% cov ntaub npuag, siv cov khoom sib xyaw los muab kev sov so, lub teeb thiab ua pa raws li Sorona softness, drape thiab elasticity. Thaum Lub Yim Hli, Puma tau tsim lub neej yav tom ntej Z 1.2, uas yog thawj cov khau ncaws pob tsis muaj hlua nrog Sorona xov paj rau sab saud.
Rau Raab, lub ntuj yog unlimited nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm cov khoom siv. "Peb cia siab tias peb tuaj yeem pom cov ntawv thov ntawm Sorona hauv cov khaub ncaws ncaws pob, suits, swimwear thiab lwm yam khoom," nws hais.
Polartec tus thawj tswj hwm Steve Layton kuj tsis ntev los no tau dhau los ua neeg nyiam ntau dua hauv Milliken & Co.. "Cov xov xwm zoo yog qhov kev nplij siab thiab kev ua tau zoo yog qhov laj thawj tseem ceeb rau peb lub neej," nws hais txog lub hom, uas tau tsim cov khoom siv hluavtaws PolarFleece cov kev ua haujlwm siab. sweaters nyob rau hauv 1981 raws li ib tug lwm txoj rau ntaub plaub. "Ua ntej, peb tau muab cais rau hauv kev ua lag luam sab nraum zoov, tab sis qhov peb tau tsim rau saum lub roob tam sim no siv ntau txoj hauv kev."
Nws hais txog Dudley Stephens ua piv txwv, lub npe poj niam tseem ceeb uas tsom mus rau cov ntaub siv dua tshiab. Polartec kuj koom tes nrog cov hom zam xws li Moncler, Pob Zeb Island, Reigning Champ, thiab Veilance.
Layton tau hais tias rau cov hom no, kev zoo nkauj ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb vim tias lawv tab tom nrhiav qhov hnyav, elastic, noo noo-wicking thiab mos sov so rau lawv cov khoom hnav khaub ncaws ua neej. Ib qho ntawm cov nyiam tshaj plaws yog Power Air, uas yog cov ntaub knitted uas tuaj yeem qhwv cua kom sov thiab txo cov microfiber shedding. Nws hais tias cov ntaub no "tau ua nrov." Txawm hais tias PowerAir pib muab qhov chaw tiaj tus nrog cov qauv npuas sab hauv, qee lub npe kev ua neej vam tias yuav siv cov npuas sab nrauv los ua tus qauv tsim. "Yog li rau peb tiam tom ntej, peb yuav siv cov duab geometric sib txawv los tsim nws," nws hais.
Sustainability kuj yog ib qho kev pib txuas ntxiv ntawm Polartec. Thaum Lub Xya Hli, lub tuam txhab tau hais tias nws tshem tawm PFAS (perfluoroalkyl thiab polyfluoroalkyl tshuaj) hauv DWR (dej repellent) kev kho mob ntawm nws cov ntaub ntawv ua haujlwm siab. PFAS yog ib yam tshuaj uas neeg tsim los uas tsis decompose, tuaj yeem nyob thiab ua rau muaj kev puas tsuaj rau ib puag ncig thiab tib neeg lub cev.
"Nyob rau yav tom ntej, peb yuav nqis peev ntau lub zog los tswj kev ua haujlwm zoo thaum rov xav txog cov fibers uas peb siv los ua kom lawv muaj bio-based," Leiden tau hais. "Kev ua tiav tsis yog-PFAS kev kho mob hauv peb cov khoom lag luam yog ib qho tseem ceeb hauv peb txoj kev cog lus rau kev tsim cov ntaub ntawv muaj txiaj ntsig zoo."
Unifi Global Key Account Tus Lwm Thawj Coj Chad Bolick tau hais tias lub tuam txhab Repreve recycled kev ua tau zoo polyester fiber ua tau raws li cov kev xav tau ntawm kev nplij siab, kev ua tau zoo thiab kev ruaj khov, thiab tuaj yeem siv tau ntau yam khoom ntawm khaub ncaws thiab khau rau cov khoom siv hauv tsev. Nws hais tias nws tseem yog "qhov hloov ncaj qha rau tus qauv nkauj xwb polyester."
"Cov khoom tsim nrog Repreve muaj cov yam ntxwv zoo thiab kev ua haujlwm zoo ib yam li cov khoom lag luam uas tsis yog siv polyester-lawv muaj qhov sib npaug ntawm cov mos mos thiab xis nyob, thiab tib lub zog tuaj yeem ntxiv, xws li ncab, kev tswj dej noo, kev tswj xyuas kub, kev tiv thaiv dej, thiab lwm yam. ", Bolik piav qhia. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws tau txo kev siv hluav taws xob los ntawm 45%, kev siv dej los ntawm ze li ntawm 20%, thiab cov pa hluav taws xob hauv tsev cog khoom ntau dua 30%.
Unifi kuj muaj lwm yam khoom siv rau kev ua lag luam, suav nrog ChillSense, uas yog lub tshuab tshiab uas tso cai rau cov ntaub hloov cov cua sov los ntawm lub cev sai dua thaum kos nrog fibers, tsim kom muaj qhov txias txias. Lwm qhov yog TruTemp365, uas ua haujlwm rau hnub sov kom tshem tawm cov dej noo ntawm lub cev thiab muab rwb thaiv tsev rau hnub txias.
Nws tau hais tias "Cov neeg siv khoom txuas ntxiv thov kom cov khoom lag luam lawv yuav muaj cov yam ntxwv ua tau zoo dua thaum tswj kev nplij siab," nws hais. “Tab sis lawv kuj xav tau kev ruaj ntseg thaum txhim kho kev ua haujlwm. Cov neeg siv khoom yog ib feem ntawm lub ntiaj teb kev sib txuas zoo heev. Lawv paub ntau ntxiv txog cov yas loj loj hauv peb cov dej hiav txwv, thiab lawv nkag siab tias peb cov peev txheej ntuj tau ploj mus, yog li, Lawv paub ntau ntxiv txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev tiv thaiv ib puag ncig rau cov tiam tom ntej. Peb cov neeg siv khoom nkag siab tias cov neeg siv khoom xav kom lawv ua ib feem ntawm qhov kev daws teeb meem no. "
Tab sis nws tsis yog cov hluavtaws fibers uas hloov mus tas li kom tau raws li cov neeg siv khoom xav tau thiab kev ruaj khov. Stuart McCullough, tus thawj coj ntawm Lub Tuam Txhab Woolmark, taw qhia rau "qhov zoo ntawm qhov zoo" ntawm Merino wool, uas muab kev nplij siab thiab kev ua tau zoo.
"Cov neeg siv khoom niaj hnub no nrhiav cov khoom lag luam nrog kev ncaj ncees thiab kev cog lus rau ib puag ncig. Merino wool tsis yog tsuas yog cov khoom kim heev rau cov qauv tsim, tab sis kuj yog ib qho kev daws teeb meem tshiab rau kev ua haujlwm niaj hnub thiab cov khaub ncaws ncaws pob. Txij li thaum muaj kev sib kis ntawm COVID-19, Cov neeg siv khoom xav tau cov khaub ncaws hauv tsev thiab cov khaub ncaws mus ncig txuas ntxiv, "McCullough tau hais.
Nws hais ntxiv tias thaum pib muaj kev sib kis, merino wool homewear tau nrov dua li cov neeg ua haujlwm hauv tsev. Tam sim no lawv tau tawm dua, cov ntaub pua plag commuter hnav, ua kom lawv nyob deb ntawm kev thauj mus los hauv pej xeem, taug kev, khiav lossis caij tsheb kauj vab mus ua haujlwm, kuj tau ua pov thawj nrov heev.
Nws tau hais tias txhawm rau txhawm rau ua kom zoo dua qhov no, Woolmark cov kws tshaj lij pab pawg tau koom tes nrog cov lag luam loj hauv cov khau thiab cov ris tsho txhawm rau nthuav dav daim ntawv thov cov fibers hauv kev ua haujlwm khau, xws li APL txoj kev knitted khiav khau. Knitwear tsim lub tuam txhab Studio Eva x Carola tsis ntev los no tau tshaj tawm cov qauv qauv ntawm cov poj niam caij tsheb kauj vab hnav, siv cov txheej txheem, seamless merino wool, siv Südwolle Group merino wool yarn ua ntawm Santoni knitting machine.
Saib ua ntej, McCullough tau hais tias nws ntseeg tias qhov kev xav tau ntawm cov tshuab ua haujlwm ruaj khov yuav yog lub zog tsav yav tom ntej.
Nws tau hais tias "Kev lag luam textile thiab zam tau raug cuam tshuam los hloov mus rau cov txheej txheem ruaj khov dua," nws hais. "Cov kev ntxhov siab no xav kom cov hom lag luam thiab cov tuam txhab lag luam rov xav txog lawv cov tswv yim khoom siv thiab xaiv cov fibers uas tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam ib puag ncig. Australian wool yog cyclical nyob rau hauv cov xwm thiab muab ib qho kev daws teeb meem rau sustainable textile txoj kev loj hlob. "
Post lub sij hawm: Oct-21-2021