Ua ntej, Cia kuv nug koj ib lo lus nug: puas yog ib qho khoom siv muaj ob ntu: ntaub thiab khoom siv?
Tsis yog, cov lus teb tsis yog lawm.Ib lub tsho yog tsim los ntawm peb qhov chaw: ntaub, khoom siv thiab hauv ob sab phlu.
Npuag thiab accessories tseem ceeb heev, tab sis qhov zoo ntawm ib ce nyob ntawm lub hauv ob sab phlu, vim hais tias nws txuas ob yam khoom sib txawv kiag li, ntaub thiab accessories.
Tus nqi pheej yig, tsim nyog rau kev hnav khaub ncaws yog siv cov nplaum nplaum, txawm tias tag nrho cov xuas tes ua, tab sis siv cov nplaum hauv ob sab phlu kuj tseem yuav tsawg dua 2000 yuan hauv qab no, qib qis ntawm cov nplaum nplaum hauv ib lub sijhawm, koj yuav pom tias kev nplua ntawm cov ntaub thiab cov khoom siv yuav tsis haum, rub ib leeg mus rau lwm qhov, zoo li kev sib cais ntawm kev ua si.
Ib qho zoo hauv ob sab phlu, piv txwv li, kev lag luam suits ua los ntawm YUNAI yuav tsum tau ua los ntawm cov ntaub plaub, linen thiab nees mane. Hauv luv, cov khoom siv ntuj tsim nyog. Lub hom phiaj yog los pab cov ntaub npuag thiab cov khoom siv kom txav mus los ntawm qhov txwv thaum pab lawv rov pib dua.
Qhov thib ob: txawm hais tias qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub ntawv siv tau cuam tshuam los ntawm ntau yam, tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub tam sim no nyob ntawm qhov chaw ntawm lub hauv paus chiv keeb. Tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub hauv tsev txawv heev los ntawm cov ntaub tuaj txawv teb chaws, uas feem ntau yog los ntawm Ltalis thiab Tebchaws Askiv.
Lub ntiaj teb cov khaub ncaws saum toj kawg nkaus suav nrog: Ermenegildo Zegna , LORO PIANA , VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO , REDA , CERRUTI 1881 , YUNAI, uas yog Italian wool loj heev; Nws kuj yog tus qauv ntawm cov ntaub plaub zoo.CHARLES CLAYTON 's tom ntej plaub yog tseem ceeb tshaj plaws woolen manufacturers. Cov npe saum toj kawg nkaus ntawm lub tsho ntaub yog Britain THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Ltalis MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO thiab lwm yam.Ib lub khw kev cai muaj ntau tshaj li ob peb hom suits thiab lub tsho fabrics yog ib lub khw kev cai heev.
Feem ntau, cov chaw tsim khoom no muaj cov kev cai nruj ntawm cov qauv kev tshaj lij ntawm cov khw muag khoom. Tsuas yog thaum lawv ncav cuag cov qauv sib raug lawv thiaj li tso cai siv lawv tus kheej cov ntaub thiab cov cim lag luam. Tsis tas li ntawd, txawm tias koj siv cov ntaub hauv tsev lossis cov khoom siv txawv teb chaws, cov khoom xyaw yog cov ntaub plaub, ntawm chav kawm, yuav muaj lwm cov khoom xyaw, xws li cashmere. , tab sis cov ntaub zoo yog ua los ntawm cov ntaub ntuj tsim ntau dua li cov khoom siv hluavtaws, tab sis koj tsis tuaj yeem ua kom nruj heev rau cov ntaub hauv tsev.
1. Ntshiab wool worsted ntaub
Cov ntaub plaub yog hais txog cov ntaub uas ua los ntawm cov ntaub plaub los yog ntaub plaub thiab polyester, viscose, acrylic, thiab lwm yam.
Worsted wool yog cov khaub ncaws qib siab uas ua los ntawm cov yaj ntshiab huv thiab huv, uas tuaj yeem sib xyaw nrog qee qhov kev faib ua feem ntawm wool tshuaj fiber los yog lwm yam ntuj fiber ntau, thiab ua tiav los ntawm cov khoom siv sib txuas, combing, drafting, spinning, weaving, dyeing thiab xov. rau ntau zaus.
Nws muaj qhov yooj yooj yim uas tsiaj tsiaj cov plaub hau qhov chaw muaj peculiar, mos poj niam txiv neej, txawv downy poj niam txiv neej thiab crape resisting pw ua ke, thaum nqus noo noo los yog hws hind kom tseem muaj kev sib deev sov so.
Cov khaub ncaws npaj txhij ua los ntawm cov ntaub npuag zoo yog qhov ruaj khov thiab yuav tsis deformed rau lub sijhawm ntev. Lawv tshwj xeeb tshaj yog solemn vim tsis muaj aurora. Lawv yog cov du thiab du nyob rau hauv kev ntxhib los mos, elegant nyob rau hauv tsos, crisp thiab crisp, tag nrho nyob rau hauv kov, classic nyob rau hauv style, mos thiab ntuj nyob rau hauv luster thiab hais txog.
Yog li hu ua worsted thiab woolen, sim piav qhia, los ntawm lub kaum sab xis ntawm ob ib qho yog saum cov fiber ntau, lwm qhov yog xaws, fiber ntau spinning yog 32 thiab siab dua 40, suav cov fiber ntau ntawm cov pob qij txha, tsis tshua muaj pob qij txha, ntuj ntom ntom, zoo abrasion tsis kam, zoo kev nplij siab, lwm yam yog lub weave, worsted ntaub nyob rau hauv woven los ntawm zoo textile tshuab, tiv thaiv fiber ntau tawg, ntom degree yog siab, wool ntaub, sib koom, yooj yim rau tawg, ntuj hnav kuj sib txawv, ceev tsis zoo.
Pure wool worsted fabrics feem ntau nyias, nrog du nto thiab cov kab ntshiab.
Lub cev yog nkig, mos thiab elastic.
Tuav cov khoom tom qab loosening, yeej tsis muaj quav, txawm tias muaj me ntsis crease kuj ploj nyob rau hauv ib lub sij hawm luv luv.
Kev txheeb xyuas ntawm cov ntaub npuag ntshiab:
Ntshiab wool ntaub nrog mos ntuj xim thiab zoo thermal nyhuv yog thawj xaiv rau ua high-qib suits thiab overcoats.
Tab sis tam sim no ntau thiab ntau cov ntaub plaub zoo li, raws li kev txhim kho ntawm textile technology, tau mus txog theem ntawm cov neeg siv khoom feem ntau nyuaj rau kev txheeb xyuas, tab sis xim, sov so, xav thiab lwm yam yog tsawg dua li cov ntaub plaub ntshiab.
Cov hauv qab no qhia ntau txoj hauv kev los txheeb xyuas cov ntaub npuag ntshiab, rau koj siv hauv kev xaiv khaub ncaws thiab hmoov.
Ua ntej, kov.
Cov ntaub npuag ntshiab feem ntau zoo nkaus li du, ntev ntaub ntaub ntaub nrog rau kev xav ntawm du, rov qab cov plaub hau tingling.Thiab sib xyaw los yog cov tshuaj fiber ntau, qee qhov muag muag, qee qhov muag heev thiab xoob, thiab nplaum zoo.
Qhov thib ob, saib cov xim.
Cov xim ntawm cov ntaub npuag ntshiab yog mos thiab ntuj, ci ntsa iab thiab tsis muaj sijhawm.Ntawm qhov sib piv, sib xyaw los yog ntshiab cov tshuaj fiber ntau nto, los yog luster yog tsaus, lossis muaj kev nkag siab ntawm flash.
Peb, saib elasticity.
Tuav cov ntaub kom nruj los ntawm txhais tes, ces tso tam sim ntawd kom pom tias cov ntaub yog elastic li cas.Ntshiab ntaub ntaub rebound tus nqi yog siab, yuav sai sai rov qab mus rau nws thawj lub xeev, thiab muab los yog tshuaj fiber ntau cov khoom, wrinkle kuj tsis zoo, feem ntau ntawm cov ntau pom tseeb wrinkle marks, los yog qeeb rov qab.
Plaub. combustion identification.
Siv ib pawg ntawm cov xov paj, siv hluav taws kub, cov ntaub npuag ntshiab tsis hnov tsw zoo li cov plaub hau hlawv, cov tshuaj fiber ntau tsis hnov tsw zoo li hlawv cov yas.Qhov nyuaj ntawm cov khoom yog tom qab combustion, cov tshuaj fiber ntau muaj.
1. Kev txheeb xyuas ib leeg.
Cov plaub hau nyob rau hauv lub tshuab ntsuas pom kom pom tag nrho cov tsiaj muaj nplai, yog tias cov plaub hau ntev ntev ntev li ntev tau ntev li ntev tau ntev li ntev tau cov plaub hau zoo li saum toj no nteg ob peb zaug yuav txav los yog nqis (kom paub qhov txuj ci no tuaj yeem siv plaub hau los ntawm thawj qhov kev sim), yog Nws yog ib txwm ntaub, rho tawm ib lub hauv paus xov paj, txiav 2 cm ntawm ob kab lus rau hauv ib tug fiber nyob rau hauv lub tes rub plaub los yog tsib, lawv yuav tsis txav.
2. Wool thiab polyester blended ntaub
Wool blended fabrics, uas yog cashmere, polyester, spandex, luav plaub hau thiab lwm yam fibers thiab ntaub plaub sib xyaw textile fabrics.Wool thiab polyester blended ntaub, nyob rau hauv lub hnub, nto muaj ib tug flash point, cov ntaub yog nkig thiab tawv, zoo elasticity, tuav cov ntaub xoob, yuav luag tsis muaj wrinkles.
Warp direction, warp, warp ceev
- Kev taw qhia ntawm cov ntaub ntev;
Sab yarns hu ua warp yarns;
Tus naj npawb ntawm threads teem nyob rau hauv 1 nti yog warp ceev;
Weft kev taw qhia, filling thiab filling ceev
- Kev taw qhia ntawm cov ntaub dav;
Cov xov paj yog hu ua weft, thiab tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov hauv ib nti yog qhov ntom ntom.
Qhov ntom
- Nws yog siv los sawv cev rau tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov paj hauv ib chav tsev ntev ntawm cov ntaub qhwv, feem ntau cov xov paj hauv 1 nti lossis 10 centimeters. Tuam Tshoj cov qauv hauv tebchaws tau teev tseg tias cov xov paj hauv 10 centimeters yog siv los sawv cev qhov ntom, tab sis cov tuam txhab textile tseem siv cov xov paj hauv 1 nti los sawv cev qhov ntom.
Piv txwv li, feem ntau pom "45 × 45 / 108 × 58" yog hais txog 45 weft thiab warp yarns nrog qhov ceev ntawm 108 thiab 58 raws.
Dav
- Qhov dav dav ntawm cov ntaub yog feem ntau qhia hauv inches los yog centimeters. Cov feem ntau yog 36 ntiv tes, 44 ntiv tes, 56-60 ntiv tes, thiab lwm yam, uas yog hu ua nqaim, nruab nrab thiab dav, feem. Fabrics siab tshaj 60 ntiv tes yog dav dav, feem ntau hu ua daim ntaub dav dav.
Qhov dav feem ntau yog cim tom qab qhov ceev. Piv txwv li, yog hais tias cov ntaub hais nyob rau hauv: 3 yog ntxiv nrog rau qhov dav, nws yuav qhia tau hais tias "45 × 45/108 × 58/60" ", piv txwv li qhov dav yog 60 ntiv tes.
Qhov hnyav
- Qhov hnyav ntawm cov ntaub feem ntau yog gram ntawm cov ntaub hnyav hauv square meters. Qhov hnyav gram yog ib qho tseem ceeb qhia txog kev knitted fabrics, thiab gram hnyav feem ntau yog coj los ua ib qho tseem ceeb qhia txog ntaub ntaub ntaub.
Lub gram hnyav ntawm denim feem ntau yog hais tias "OZ", uas yog, tus naj npawb ntawm cov ooj ntawm cov ntaub hnyav ib square yard, xws li 7 ooj, 12 ounces ntawm denim, thiab lwm yam.
Xov-dyed
Nyob rau hauv Nyiv, nws yog hu ua "dyed fabric", uas yog hais txog cov txheej txheem ntawm dyeing cov xov paj los yog filament thiab ces weaving daim ntaub nrog cov xim yarn. Hom ntaub no hu ua "yarn-dyed fabric". Cov chaw tsim cov xov paj-dyed ntaub feem ntau hu ua dyeing thiab weaving factories, xws li denim, thiab feem ntau lub tsho fabrics yog xov paj-dyed.
3. Wool thiab viscose blended ntaub
Cov luster yog dim.
Kev xav phem yog qaug zog, thaum lub woolen xav tau xoob.
Cov ntaub ntawv no tsis tshua muaj elastic thiab nkig dua cov ntaub plaub ntshiab thiab cov ntaub plaub-polyester, cov ntaub plaub zoo sib xyaw.Yog cov ntsiab lus viscose siab dua, cov ntaub yog yooj yim rau quav.
Pure chemical fiber wool zoo li ntaub tsoos viscose, dag wool fiber li raw cov ntaub ntawv ntawm wool zoo li ntaub, luster dim, mos xav, tsis nkig zoo li.Vim elasticity yog poorer, tshwm yooj yim crape, thiab tsis yooj yim rau ploj. Ib txoj hauv kev zoo los txheeb xyuas cov ntaub viscose uas lub zog ntawm cov xov paj muab rho tawm los ntawm cov ntaub yog pom tseeb txo qis thaum nws ntub dua li thaum nws qhuav. , imitation wool khoom nyob rau hauv cov xim, xav, durability kuj tau.
Hom Lub Npe:
Luav plaub hau
Feem ntau, ib qho kev faib ua feem ntawm luav plaub hau thiab ntaub plaub yog sib xyaw thiab woven. Cov yam ntxwv ntawm luav sweater pw hauv nws cov fibers zoo, du thiab waxy xav, mos thiab fluffy nto pw, thiab zoo fluffiness. Nws yog xis thiab ntuj hnav, thiab pw tsaug zog ntawm nruab nrab saum npoo yog yooj yim poob tawm.
Yog hais tias tus txheej txheem ntawm thawj ua lub sweater thiab tom qab dyeing (xws li weaving thiab ces dyeing) yog saws, cov xim thiab luster yuav ntau ntshiab thiab gorgeous, nrog ib tug tshwj xeeb lattice, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog haum rau cov poj niam hluas outerwear.
Tshuaj fiber ntau plaub hau
Lub ntsiab feature ntawm khaub ncaws yog nws lightness.
Ua zoo li acrylic unshirt, weave nrog acrylic bulk yarn feem ntau, nws cov ntaub plaub zoo li muaj zog, xim thiab lustre, zoo ntawm cov khoom yog lub teeb mos puffiness, noo noo regain tus nqi yog 0-4.5% xwb, fiber ntau tawg lub zog siab dua wool fiber, yuav tsis npauj, tab sis nws qhov kev hloov pauv tau rov qab yog qis dua cov ntaub plaub, ua kom sov pw ua ke tsawg dua cov ntaub plaub mos mos, tus nqi pheej yig, tab sis yooj yim pilling, haum rau cov me nyuam cov khaub ncaws.
Tsis ntev los no, kev lag luam thoob ntiaj teb rau acrylic, polyamide fiber ntau cov xov paj, hloov kho acrylic imitation mohair yarn, nws rau hauv sweaters tuaj yeem sib piv nrog ntuj luav plaub hau, mohair khaub ncaws.
Tsiaj plaub hau sib xyaw nrog cov tshuaj fibers
Nws muaj "cov yam ntxwv ntxiv" ntawm ntau yam tsiaj plaub hau thiab tshuaj fibers, thiab nws cov tsos yog plaub hau, lub zog elongation yog txhim kho, thiab lub tsho luv luv nqi. Nws yog ib yam khoom zoo thiab pheej yig.
Tab sis nyob rau hauv cov khaub ncaws sib xyaw, muaj qhov teeb meem uas cov nyhuv dyeing tsis zoo tagnrho vim qhov sib txawv dyeing thiab xim absorbing peev xwm ntawm ntau hom fibers.
4. Artificial wool zoo li cov khoom siv
Cov neeg Askiv yog thawj tus los kawm txog kev rho tawm cov protein los ntawm cov kua nplaum rau tsiaj los ua cov khoom muaj protein ntau.
Xyoo 1935, qee cov neeg hauv tebchaws Ltalis tau sim rho cov cheese los ntawm cov mis nyuj los ua cov ntaub plaub.
Txij thaum ntawd los, qee lub tebchaws tau txais kev vam meej hauv kev tsim cov khoom siv fiber ntau los ntawm cov taum protein thiab txiv laum huab xeeb.
Vim muaj teeb meem nrog kev siv hluav taws xob thiab kev tsim cov nqi ntawm cov fibers, ntau lawm yog tsawg.
YUNAI dim, tsis muaj kev xav tsis zoo, vim tsis muaj elasticity, yooj yim heev rau tshwm sim zou Fold, thiab tsis yooj yim rau ploj.
Muaj ob hom txiv neej tsim fibers: regenerated fiber ntau thiab tshuaj fiber ntau. Regenerated fiber yog viscose fiber ntau ua los ntawm ntoo thiab nyom fiber ntau los ntawm kev ua tshuaj.
Cov tshuaj fiber ntau yog cov khoom siv hluavtaws ua los ntawm cov roj av, cov pa roj, cov thee thiab cov khoom ua liaj ua teb.
Raws li cov duab thiab kev siv ntawm cov txiv neej ua fibers, muaj peb hom: rayon, rayon thiab ntaub plaub.
Ntau yam tseem ceeb muaj viscose fiber, acetate fiber, tooj liab ammonia fiber ntau thiab lwm yam.
Regenerated fiber yuav muab faib ua regenerated cellulose fiber, cellulose ester fiber, protein fiber thiab lwm yam ntuj polymer fiber.
Nws cov khoom piv rau cov tshuaj fibers, staple fibers.
Cov txiv neej ua fiber ntau yog taw tes rau viscose fiber ntau filament thiab staple fiber ntaub, uas yog cov txiv neej ua paj rwb uas tib neeg paub txog, rayon thiab lwm yam.
Tsis tas li ntawd, nws kuj muaj xws li ib feem ntawm cov nplua nuj fiber ntau ntaub thiab nruab nrab ntev fiber ntau ntaub ntawm filament thiab staple.
Yog li ntawd, cov khoom ntawm tib neeg fiber ntau yog txiav txim siab los ntawm cov khoom ntawm viscose fibers.
Rayon thiab rayon fabrics yog mos rau qhov kov, breathable thiab xis hnav, thiab ci xim.
Tib neeg cov ntaub fiber ntau muaj qhov zoo hygroscopicity, thiab nws hygroscopicity yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws hauv cov tshuaj fiber ntau.Tab sis nws lub zog ntub dej tsawg heev, nws yog li ntawm 50% ntawm lub zog qhuav xwb, thiab cov ntaub shrinkage tus nqi loj dua, yog li ntawd yuav tsum ntsws ua ntej. ua ntej txiav tau zoo dua.
Ordinary viscose npuag muaj cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov ntaub zoo, tsis muaj zog, tsis muaj zog thiab tsis muaj zog, yog li nws cov khaub ncaws tsis zoo khaws cia thiab ua rau wrinkle.
Viscose fiber ntau muaj cov kua qaub thiab alkali tsis kam, tiv thaiv tshav ntuj thiab lwm yam tshuaj tiv thaiv.
5.Pure chemical fiber wool zoo li cov khoom siv
Feem ntau, hluavtaws fiber ntau yog siv los ua cov khoom tseem ceeb, cov khoom siv fiber ntau lossis cov xim dawb li cov xov xov, thiab qee cov khoom siv hluavtaws tshiab yog siv los ua cov khoom tseem ceeb, nrog cov qauv ntaub tsim nyog. Cov ntaub no muaj ob hom xyoob zoo li, ntuj style.
Nws muaj cov yam ntxwv zoo ntawm ntuj fiber ntau.
Cov ntaub yog ci xim, zoo hauv lustre, nkig thiab elastic, haum rau cov pej xeem.
Tshuaj fiber wool, cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khaub ncaws yog sib dua.
Ua zoo li acrylic unshirt, weave nrog acrylic bulk yarn feem ntau, nws cov ntaub plaub zoo li muaj zog, xim thiab lustre, zoo ntawm cov khoom yog lub teeb mos puffiness, noo noo regain tus nqi yog 0-4.5% xwb, fiber ntau tawg lub zog siab dua wool fiber, yuav tsis npauj, tab sis nws qhov kev hloov pauv tau rov qab yog qis dua cov ntaub plaub, ua kom sov pw ua ke tsawg dua cov ntaub plaub mos mos, tus nqi pheej yig, tab sis yooj yim pilling, haum rau cov me nyuam cov khaub ncaws.
Tsis ntev los no, kev lag luam thoob ntiaj teb rau acrylic, poly-amide fiber ntau cov xov paj, hloov acrylic imitation mohair yarn, nws mus rau hauv lub tsho tuaj yeem piv nrog ntuj luav plaub hau, mohair khaub ncaws.
Tsiaj cov plaub hau thiab tshuaj fiber ntau sib xyaw wool, nrog rau ntau yam tsiaj plaub hau thiab tshuaj fiber ntau "cov yam ntxwv ntxiv", nws cov tsos zoo li cov ntaub plaub, elongation lub zog yog txhim kho, txo tus nqi ntawm lub tsho tiv no, yog cov khoom pheej yig thiab zoo.
Tab sis nyob rau hauv cov khaub ncaws sib xyaw, muaj qhov teeb meem uas ntau hom fibers muaj qhov sib txawv dyeing thiab xim absorbing peev xwm, uas ua rau cov nyhuv dyeing tsis zoo tagnrho.
Qhov txawv ntawm cov khoom siv fiber ntau zoo li cov ntaub plaub thiab cov ntaub npuag ntshiab:
Wool-zoo li ntaub feem ntau yog ua los ntawm cov tshuaj fiber ntau, thiab viscose fiber ntau, xws li polyester / viscose nruab nrab ntev ntaub plaub, ntshiab polyester thiab lwm yam ntaub plaub zoo li cov khoom.
Ua ntej, gloss txawv.
Ntshiab ntaub ntaub yog feem ntau mos thiab ntuj, nrog tsawg gorgeous xim. Cov tshuaj fiber ntau imitation wool npuag yog nplua nuj xim thiab ci. Yog tias koj ua tib zoo saib hauv qab lub hnub, koj yuav pom cov ntsiab lus ci thiab dazzling ntawm lub teeb.
Qhov no taw tes rau xyaum wool txias kom zoo li ntaub plaub kuj yuav indistinguishable.
Qhov thib ob, kev xav thiab elasticity yog txawv.
Ntshiab wool fabrics zoo li mos, me ntsis plush, lub cev pob txha, me ntsis wrinkled tab sis tsis tawv, mos tab sis tsis ncaj rebound;
Thaum polyester, wool zoo li nyob rau hauv tsos, tab sis mos thiab du, tsis muaj lub cev pob txha, wrinkle ntau, qeeb rebound.
Thib peb, hlawv cov lo lo ntxhuav tom qab kos duab.
Pure wool fabric yarn tuaj yeem pom tom qab qhov tsis sib xws ntawm cov ntaub plaub fiber ntau, qhov ntev sib txawv, ntuj curl, thiab viscose xyaum wool fabric fiber ntev, thickness uniform zoo ib yam.
Tom qab combustion, tom qab qhov hluav taws kub maj mam hlawv, tawm hauv qhov hluav taws kub tseem kub hnyiab, cov plaub hau yog nrog rau cov ntxhiab tsw, tshauv, dub crispy lub voos xwmfab, ib tug twist namely mus rau hauv hmoov rau cov ntaub plaub ntshiab, thiab nyob ze rau ntawm qhov hluav taws kub yog kub, hlawv sai heev. , daj nplaim, clamp hlawv, cov tshauv nrog yooj yim ya lub teeb grey, dawb thiab tawm ib qho nyuaj rau crush ib pob ntawm polyester / viscose.
Nws kuj tawm ib pob dub tom qab hlawv.
Los ntawm ob mus rau ob lossis ntau dua ntawm cov khoom xyaw lossis cov ntaub sib xyaw ua ke: wool / viscose, wool / polyester, wool / silk, wool / viscose / spandex, thiab lwm yam, nws tsis tsuas yog yuav tsum tau tuav ntau hom fiber ntau morphology thiab cov khoom, thiab cov txheej txheem ntawm kev siv ntau qhov kev txheeb xyuas fiber ntau, los ntawm kev saib dua, kev kub hnyiab mus rau qhov kev sim tom qab kuaj, tuaj yeem muaj kev nyab xeeb tuaj rau qhov xaus.
6.Mercerized ntaub plaub
Mercerizing wool cov ntaub ntawv yog cov khoom siv ntaub plaub tom qab siv tshuaj lom neeg thiab kev kho lub cev, cov ntaub plaub fiber ntau puas tsuaj, thiab los ntawm cov tshuaj ntsuam xyuas tus neeg saib xyuas, ua kom cov ntaub plaub ua du, ci, shrinkproof thaum ntxuav, haum rau kab tshoob dresses.
Mercerizing wool yog kev kho cov khoom siv ntaub plaub hauv cov txheej txheem mercerizing ntawm cov ntaub plaub dyeing thiab xov.
Cov ntaub plaub yuav tsum tau chlorinated los ntawm Basolan DC los yog kho nrog protease los rhuav tshem cov nplais ntawm cov ntaub plaub thiab txo qhov sib txawv ntawm kev sib txhuam coefficient thaum lub sij hawm rau pem hauv ntej thiab rov qab txav ntawm cov ntaub plaub. Tom qab kev kho mob, cov luster ntawm cov ntaub plaub yog nce, feem ntau hu ua mercerized wool.
Mercerized wool tej zaum yuav woven los ntawm cov ntaub plaub ntshiab los yog blended.
Cov yam ntxwv tseem ceeb yog los tiv thaiv shrinkage, tshuab - washable, anti - pilling.
Mercerized wool technology pib nyob rau hauv nruab nrab-1990s, nws yog ib tug tshiab dyeing thiab tiav technology tsim nyob rau hauv lub hauv paus ntawm ib txwm chlorination thiab shrinkage tiv thaiv technology rau ntaub plaub.
Cov ntaub plaub uas kho tau muaj lub ntsej muag zoo li cashmere thiab lub ntsej muag zoo nkauj.
Raws li qhov tshwm sim ntawm cov yam ntxwv no, wool mercerizing khoom sai sai tau nrov.
Txog rau tam sim no, mercerized wool tau nrov heev, kev lag luam sib koom tau tshaj li cov ntaub plaub zoo tib yam.
Muaj ntau lub tswv yim ntawm mercerized wool nyob rau hauv Tuam Tshoj thiab lwm lub teb chaws nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no. Nyob rau hauv Tuam Tshoj, cov ntaub plaub stripped ntawm phosphorus yog hu ua mercerized wool, thaum lub thoob ntiaj teb yaj ntaub plaub yog steamed los ntawm kub kub, thiab stretched los ntawm 30% ~ 50%. Tom qab ntawd, tom qab txias los ntawm dej txias thiab zoo li tus, cov yaj yaj elongated thiab nyias yog hu ua mercerized wool.
7. Wool
Wool feem ntau hu ua wool fiber ntaub.
Wool fiber yog protein molecules coalesced, cov tsos ntawm ib tug tshwj xeeb txheej ntawm nruj horny scale qauv, nruj nreem npog, lub flake qauv yog me me, nws zoo dua yog los tiv thaiv cov av rau hauv fiber, yog li, cov khaub ncaws wool tsis yooj yim qias neeg.
Cov ntxhua khaub ncaws qhuav feem ntau ntsib ntau hom ntaub sib txawv thaum ua ntxhua khaub ncaws, thiab cov khaub ncaws wool kuj muaj ntau.
Yog vim li cas wool tsim lub teeb ci yog:
(1) Lub horny nplai txheej ntawm qhov chaw ntawm cov ntaub plaub yog ib nrab hnav;
(2) Cov plua plav thiab av rub maj mam thiab lo rau ntawm qhov zawj, kom cov ntaub nplaum ua kom du, ua rau lub teeb tsis tu ncua, ua rau lub teeb ci.
Txoj hauv kev kom tshem tawm lub teeb:
(1) Lub khob cij tuaj yeem sib tw rau hauv cov hmoov nplej thiab kis tau rau hauv lub teeb, nrog rau cov hlau rau hlau;
(2) Pickling: Soak acetic acid tov nrog ib tug concentration ntawm 3-5% thiab kub ntawm 50 ℃ rau 3-5 feeb, thiab ces yaug nrog dej ntshiab.
Dawb vinegar kuj siv tau.
(3) Txhuam txhuam nrog txhuam thaum ntxuav.
Cov fiber ntau yog cov khoom siv ntuj tsim, yog cov txiaj ntsig ntawm cov noob cog, stems thiab nplooj nrog ntau cov tshuaj fiber ntau tsis muaj qhov zoo, ntau hydrophilic noob hauv paj rwb fiber, hygroscopicity zoo, hnav hws nqus, huab cua permeability, xis, thiab hemp thiab txias txias. , softness, tsis lo rau cov yam ntxwv ntawm kev siv dav hauv kev lag luam tsoos tsho, txais tos los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom.
Qhov zoo: mos thiab elastic rau tes, mos thiab ntuj luster, xis thiab zoo nkauj hnav, qib siab zoo, zoo noo noo nqus, tsis yooj yim rau cua sov conduction, zoo thaum tshav kub kub preservation, crease kuj, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tom qab tsoos tsho ua thiab ironing zoo pleat. shaping thiab tsoos tsho zoo tiv thaiv;
Faj seeb: Lub tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws yuav tsum tsis txhob siab dhau, tsis txhob rub los yog wring kom tsis txhob raug tshav ntuj.
Nias taw tes: ntub ironing, ironing cov khoom qhuav los ntawm sab nraud.
Disadvantages: alkali - resistant, shrinkage, yooj yim rau wrinkle.
8. Wool-polyester ntaub
Wool-polyester npuag (wool-polyester): Npuag ua los ntawm cov ntaub plaub thiab polyester blended yarns, feem ntau hom ntaub plaub-blended ntaub.
Ib daim ntaub ua los ntawm wool thiab polyester blended yarn.
Qhov sib piv ntawm wool-polyester blending yog 45∶55, uas tuaj yeem tswj tsis tau qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub, tab sis kuj muab kev ua si tag nrho rau qhov zoo ntawm polyester.
Yuav luag tag nrho cov ntxhib thiab cov ntaub tsis zoo muaj cov ntaub plaub-polyester sib xyaw ntau yam.
Ntawm lawv worsted wool-polyester nyias paj ntaub tseem hu ua txias, feem ntau hu ua wool tiag tiag txias, yog qhov feem ntau pom ntawm wool-polyester blending yam ntxwv ntawm ib qho ntawm cov ntaub.
Muaj ob-ply warp thiab weft, ob-ply warp, ib-ply weft thiab ib-ply warp thiab weft.
Feem ntau nrog 50 ~ 70 txiv neej ob strand, thinner fabrics nrog 100 ~ 120 txiv neej ob strand.
Qhov hnyav ntawm cov ntaub yog li 170 ~ 190 g / m 2.
Piv nrog wool tweed, wool-polyester nyias tweed yog lub teeb thiab lub teeb nyob rau hauv kev ntxhib los mos, nrog zoo wrinkle rov qab, ruaj thiab hnav-tiv taus, yooj yim los ntxuav, ceev kom qhuav, ruaj pleat, ruaj nyob rau hauv loj, tab sis tsis zoo li cov ntaub plaub.
Yog tias siv lub teeb polyester ua cov khoom siv raw, qhov saum npoo ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav.
Yog hais tias cov tsiaj nyeg tshwj xeeb xws li cashmere lossis ntxhuav cov plaub hau siv rau hauv cov khoom siv raw ntawm kev sib xyaw, nws yuav hnov ntau dua thiab nplaum.
Qhov sib piv ntawm wool-polyester blending yog 45: 55, uas tuaj yeem tswj tsis tau qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub, tab sis kuj muab kev ua si rau qhov zoo ntawm polyester.
Qhov zoo: wool blended nrog polyester, lub teeb thiab lub teeb nyob rau hauv kev ntxhib los mos, zoo wrinkle rov ua tau zoo.
Durable, yooj yim los ntxuav thiab qhuav, ruaj khov hauv qhov loj, ruaj khov hauv tuck
Ntxuav cov ntsiab lus: tsau nrog dej txias rau 15 feeb ua ntej, tom qab ntawd ntxuav nrog cov khoom siv hluavtaws, ntxuav cov dej kub yuav tsum tsis txhob siab tshaj 45 degrees, dab tshos, qhov chaw qias neeg tuaj yeem siv cov ntaub plaub mos mos txhuam kom txhuam, tom qab ntxuav kom huv, tuaj yeem ntswj maj mam, yuav txias qhov cua qhov chaw cua, tsis insolate, yuav tsum tsis txhob qhuav, tsam vim ripe ua rau wrinkle.
9. T / R ntaub
Nws yog ib qho ntawm cov yam ntxwv ntawm T / R ntaub los ua lub tsho caj dab tsho, lub tsho lapel thiab hnav nrog ntau tus plaid lossis stripe, flash lossis monochrome T / R ntaub.
T/R ntaub yog polyester viscose blended fabric.Polyester viscose blended yog ib hom kev sib xyaw ua ke.Polyester viscose tsis yog paj rwb, ntaub plaub, thiab nruab nrab - ntev.Wool fabric feem ntau hu ua "sai bus". 50%, cov ntaub ntawv zoo li no tuaj yeem ua kom cov polyester ruaj khov, wrinkle resistant, loj ruaj khov, washable thiab hnav cov yam ntxwv muaj zog.Qhov sib xyaw ntawm viscose fiber txhim kho cov huab cua permeability ntawm cov ntaub thiab ua rau lub qhov melting qhov.The pilling thiab antistatic phenomena ntawm cov ntaub raug txo.
Siv 65/35 lossis 67/33 rau polyester / viscid-blend ratio.Polyester / viscose blend yog tib yam li polyester / viscose.Cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov ntaub ntawv zoo li no yog du thiab huv, ci xim, muaj zog ntaub plaub zoo, tes zoo. elasticity, zoo noo noo absorption; Tab sis lub permanence tsis zoo.
Qhov zoo: ruaj, wrinkle resistant, ruaj khov loj, washable thiab hnav.
Nws tuaj yeem txhim kho huab cua permeability ntawm cov ntaub, txo cov pilling thiab antistatic phenomenon.
Cov ntsiab lus ntxuav: Lub tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws tuaj yeem siv tau, tsis txhob txhuam nrog txhuam, kom tsis txhob pilling, ziab ntawm sab nraud.
10.High-density NC
High density NC ntaub yog ib hom ntaub sib xyaw lossis interwoven nrog poly-amide (nylon) thiab paj rwb xov paj.
Cov khoom sib txuas qhov zoo ntawm nylon thiab paj rwb xov paj.
Kev hnav-muaj peev xwm ntawm nylon yog thawj ntawm cov fibers ntuj thiab tshuaj fibers. Kev nqus dej noo ntawm nylon zoo dua li ntawm polyester, thiab nws cov khoom hnav zoo nkauj thiab dyeing zoo dua li polyester. Yog li ntawd, kev nqus dej noo thiab hnav kev nplij siab ntawm paj rwb xov paj yuav tsis txo qis thaum sib xyaw lossis cuam tshuam nrog paj rwb xov paj.
Nylon muaj elasticity zoo heev. Tom qab sib tov los yog interweaving nrog paj rwb yarn, elasticity ntawm cov ntaub yog zoo dua.
Qhov tsis zoo ntawm NC ntaub yog: vim nylon koom nrog kev sib tshuam los yog sib xyaw, qhov kub thiab txias tsis kam ntawm cov ntaub yog qhov tsis zoo, xyuam xim rau kev ntxuav thiab ironing hauv cov txheej txheem ntawm kev siv kom tau raws li qhov xwm txheej, kom tsis txhob muaj kev puas tsuaj.
Nws cov yam ntxwv tseem ceeb tshaj plaws: tsis yooj yim rau hnav, mos thiab xis nyob, yooj yim los ntxuav.
Tsis txhob hlawv nyob rau hauv lub hnub, tsis txhob wring tawm.
Cov ntsiab lus ntxuav: Tsis txhob qhuav huv, qhuav hauv qhov tsaus ntuj.
Txoj kev tu: tsis txhob hnav lub caij, rov qab mus rau lub hnab yas tiaj tus sau.
Post lub sij hawm: Mar-01-2021