He aha ka huluhulu a he lole hoʻomau? hopena kaiapuni

He mea kākau ʻo Sharmon Lebby a me ka mea hoʻolālā lole hoʻomau e aʻo a hōʻike i ka hui ʻana o ka environmentalism, fashion, a me ke kaiāulu BIPOC.
ʻO ka huluhulu ka lole no nā lā anu a me nā pō anu. Pili kēia lole i nā lole waho. He mea palupalu, fluffy, hana mau ʻia me ka polyester. ʻO nā mittens, nā pāpale, a me nā scarves a pau i hana ʻia i nā mea synthetic i kapa ʻia ʻo polar fleece.
E like me nā lole maʻamau, makemake mākou e aʻo hou e pili ana i ka manaʻo ʻia ʻo ka huluhulu e hoʻomau a pehea e hoʻohālikelike ai i nā lole ʻē aʻe.
Ua hana mua ʻia ka hulu hipa i mea pani no ka hulu hipa. I ka makahiki 1981, ua alakaʻi ka hui ʻAmelika ʻo Malden Mills (ʻo Polartec i kēia manawa) i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i nā mea polyester brushed. Ma o ka launa pū ʻana me Patagonia, e hoʻomau lākou i ka hana ʻana i nā lole ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi, ʻoi aku ka māmā ma mua o ka hulu hipa, akā mau nā waiwai e like me nā fila holoholona.
He ʻumi mau makahiki ma hope mai, ua puka mai kekahi hui pū ʻana ma waena o Polartec a me Patagonia; ʻO kēia ka manaʻo nui i ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā ʻōmole plastik i hana hou ʻia e hana i ka hulu hipa. ʻO ka lole mua he ʻōmaʻomaʻo, ke kala o nā ʻōmole hana hou. I kēia lā, hana hou nā brand i nā hana hou e hoʻomaʻemaʻe a hoʻolele i nā fiber polyester recycled ma mua o ke kau ʻana i nā fiber polyester recycled ma ka mākeke. Aia i kēia manawa he ʻano kala i loaʻa no nā mea hulu hipa i hana ʻia mai ka ʻōpala ma hope o ka mea kūʻai aku.
ʻOiai ua hana mau ʻia ka hulu hipa me ka polyester, ma ke ʻano ʻenehana hiki ke hana ʻia me kahi ʻano o ka fiber.
E like me ka velvet, ʻo ka hiʻohiʻona nui o ka polar fleece ka lole huluhulu. No ka hana ʻana i ka fluff a i ʻole i hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻia, hoʻohana ʻo Malden Mills i nā pulupulu uea kila cylindrical e wāwahi i nā puka lou i hana ʻia i ka wā ulana. ʻO kēia hoʻi e hoʻoneʻe i nā fiber i luna. Eia nō naʻe, hiki i kēia ʻano ke hoʻoulu i ka pilling o ka lole, ka hopena i nā pōpō fiber liʻiliʻi ma ka ʻili o ka lole.
I mea e hoʻoponopono ai i ka pilikia o ka pilling, ʻo ia ka mea i "kahi ʻia", kahi e ʻoluʻolu ai ka lole a hiki ke mālama i kona ʻano no ka manawa lōʻihi. I kēia lā, hoʻohana ʻia ka ʻenehana maʻamau e hana i ka hulu hipa.
ʻO ka polyethylene terephthalate chips ka hoʻomaka o ke kaʻina hana fiber. Hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ka ʻōpala a laila koi ʻia i loko o kahi disk me nā lua maikaʻi loa i kapa ʻia he spinneret.
Ke puka mai nā ʻāpana i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia mai loko mai o nā lua, hoʻomaka lākou e maʻalili a paʻakikī i nā fiber. A laila, wili ʻia nā ʻili ma luna o nā wili wela a lilo i pūʻolo nui i kapa ʻia ʻo tows, a laila ʻōni ʻia e hana i nā kaula lōʻihi a ikaika. Ma hope o ke kikoo ʻana, hāʻawi ʻia kahi ʻano wrinkled ma o ka mīkini crimping, a laila maloʻo. I kēia manawa, ua ʻoki ʻia nā ʻili i loko o nā iniha, e like me ka hulu hipa.
A laila hiki ke hana ʻia kēia mau ʻili i nā ʻili. Hoʻohele ʻia nā kaʻa kaʻa a ʻoki ʻia i loko o kahi mīkini kāleka e hana i nā kaula fiber. Hāʻawi ʻia kēia mau kaula i loko o ka mīkini wili, kahi e hana ai i nā kaula ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a wili ʻia i loko o nā bobbins. Ma hope o ka hoʻoluʻu ʻana, e hoʻohana i ka mīkini wili e hili i nā kaula i loko o kahi lole. Mai laila mai, hana ʻia ka puʻu ma ka hāʻawi ʻana i ka lole ma o ka mīkini napping. ʻO ka hope, e ʻoki ka mīkini ʻako i ka ʻili i hāpai ʻia e lilo i hulu hipa.
ʻO ka PET i hoʻohana hou ʻia e hana i ka huluhulu mai nā ʻōmole plastik i hana hou ʻia. Hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia a hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia ka ʻōpala ma hope o ka mea kūʻai aku. Ma hope o ka maloʻo ʻana, ʻoki ʻia ka hue i loko o nā ʻāpana plastik liʻiliʻi a holoi hou. Ua bleach ka ʻeleʻele māmā, ʻōmaʻomaʻo mau ka ʻōmole ʻōmaʻomaʻo, a ma hope i waiho ʻia i kahi kala ʻeleʻele. A laila e hahai i ke kaʻina hana like me ka PET mua: hoʻoheheʻe i nā ʻāpana a hoʻohuli iā lākou i mau kaula.
ʻO ka ʻokoʻa nui ma waena o ka huluhulu a me ka pulupulu ʻo ia ka mea i hana ʻia me nā fiber synthetic. Hoʻolālā ʻia ʻo Fleece e hoʻohālike i ka hulu hipa a mālama i kāna mau waiwai hydrophobic a me ka thermal insulation, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka kūlohelohe a ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi o ka pulupulu. ʻAʻole ia he mea wale nō, akā he fiber hiki ke ulana ʻia a hoʻopaʻa ʻia paha i kekahi ʻano lole. Hiki ke ho'ohana 'ia ka pulupulu no ka hana 'ana i ka hulu hipa.
ʻOiai he mea pōʻino ka pulupulu i ke kaiapuni, ua manaʻo nui ʻia ʻoi aku ka paʻa ma mua o ka hulu hipa kahiko. No ka mea, he synthetic ka polyester e hana ana i ka hulu hipa, he mau ʻumi makahiki paha e pohō ai, a ʻoi aku ka wikiwiki o ka biodegradation rate o ka pulupulu. ʻO ka helu pololei o ka decomposition e pili ana i nā kūlana o ka lole a inā he 100% pulupulu.
ʻO ka huluhulu i hanaʻia i ka polyester ka mea maʻamau i ka lole kiʻekiʻe. ʻO ka mea mua, hana ʻia ka polyester mai ka ʻaila, nā wahie mōʻalihaku a me nā kumuwaiwai liʻiliʻi. E like me kā mākou e ʻike ai, hoʻopau ka hana polyester i ka ikehu a me ka wai, a loaʻa pū kekahi i nā kemika ʻino.
ʻO ke kaʻina hana kala o nā lole synthetic kekahi hopena i ke kaiapuni. ʻAʻole hoʻohana wale kēia kaʻina i ka nui o ka wai, akā hoʻokuʻu pū i ka wai ʻino i loaʻa i nā mea pena i hoʻopau ʻole ʻia a me nā surfactant kemika, he mea pōʻino i nā mea ola wai.
ʻOiai ʻaʻole biodegradable ka polyester i hoʻohana ʻia i ka hulu hipa, ua decompose. Eia naʻe, waiho kēia kaʻina hana i nā ʻāpana plastik liʻiliʻi i kapa ʻia ʻo microplastics. ʻAʻole kēia he pilikia wale nō i ka wā e pau ai ka lole i kahi ʻāina, akā i ka holoi ʻana i nā lole huluhulu. ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā mea kūʻai aku, ʻoi aku ka holoi lole, ka hopena nui loa i ke kaiapuni i ka wā o ke ola o nā lole. Manaʻo ʻia aia ma kahi o 1,174 milligrams o nā microfibers i hoʻokuʻu ʻia i ka wā e holoi ʻia ai ka lole synthetic.
He liʻiliʻi ka hopena o ka hulu hipa i hana hou ʻia. Hoʻemi ʻia ka ikehu i hoʻohana ʻia e ka polyester recycled e 85%. I kēia manawa, 5% wale nō o ka PET i hana hou ʻia. No ka mea, ʻo ka polyester ka fiber helu ʻekahi i hoʻohana ʻia i nā textiles, ʻo ka hoʻonui ʻana i kēia pākēneka e loaʻa ka hopena nui i ka hōʻemi ʻana i ka ikehu a me ka hoʻohana wai.
E like me nā mea he nui, ke ʻimi nei nā brand i nā ala e hōʻemi ai i ko lākou hopena kaiapuni. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ke alakaʻi nei ʻo Polartec i ke ʻano me kahi hana hou e hana i kā lākou ʻohi lole lole 100% recyclable a biodegradable.
Hana ʻia ka huluhulu mai nā mea kūlohelohe, e like me ka pulupulu a me ka hemp. Ke hoʻomau nei lākou i nāʻano like me ka huluhulu loea a me ka hulu hipa, akāʻaʻole iʻoi aku kaʻino. Me ka nānā nui ʻana i ka hoʻokele waiwai pōʻai, hoʻohana ʻia nā mea kanu a me nā mea hana hou e hana i ka hulu hipa.