I ka nohona o kēlā me kēia lā, lohe mau mākou he ulana maʻemaʻe kēia, he ulana ʻūhā kēia, he ulana satin kēia, he ulana jacquard kēia a pēlā aku.Akā ʻo ka mea ʻoiaʻiʻo, nui ka poʻe i nalowale ma hope o ka hoʻolohe ʻana iā ia.He aha ka maikaʻi o ia mea?I kēia lā, e kamaʻilio kākou e pili ana i nā ʻano a me ka ʻike ʻana o kēia mau lole ʻekolu.
1. ʻO ka ulana maʻemaʻe, ka ulana twill, a me ka satin e pili ana i ke ʻano o ka lole
ʻO ka mea i kapa ʻia he ulana paʻa, ulana twill a me ka ulana satin (satin) pili i ke ʻano o ka lole.Ma ke ʻano o ka hoʻolālā wale nō, ʻaʻole maikaʻi a maikaʻi ʻole nā ʻekolu, akā loaʻa i kēlā me kēia me kona mau hiʻohiʻona ma muli o ka ʻokoʻa o ke ʻano.
(1) Ka lole maʻemaʻe
He huaʻōlelo maʻamau no ka lole pulupulu ulana maʻemaʻe o nā kikoʻī like ʻole.ʻO kēia mau mea e pili ana i ka ulana maʻemaʻe a me ka ulana maʻemaʻe i ulana ʻokoʻa, nā lole ulana maʻemaʻe like ʻole me nā kikoʻī a me nā ʻano like ʻole.E like me: ka lole maʻemaʻe, ka lole maʻemaʻe, ka lole maʻemaʻe maikaʻi, ka poplin gauze, ka poplin hapalua, ka poplin laina piha, ka lole hemp a me ka lole maʻemaʻe i kāhili ʻia, etc. He 65 mau ʻano ka nui.
Hoʻopili ʻia ke kaula a me ka weft i kēlā me kēia wili ʻē aʻe.Paʻa ke ʻano o ka lole, ʻuʻuku, a maʻemaʻe ka ʻili.ʻO ka mea maʻamau, hana ʻia nā lole wili kiʻekiʻe me nā lole ulana maʻamau.
ʻO ka lole ulana maʻemaʻe he nui nā helu interweaving, ʻano paʻa paʻa, ʻili maʻemaʻe, ʻano like ka hopena ma mua a ma hope, ʻoi aku ka māmā a me ka lahilahi, a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka ea permeability.ʻO ke ʻano o ka ulana maʻemaʻe e hoʻoholo i kona haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa.ʻO ka ʻōlelo maʻamau, ʻano haʻahaʻa ke kumukūʻai o ka lole ulana maʻamau.Akā, aia kekahi mau lole ulana maʻemaʻe i ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai, e like me kekahi mau lole humuhumu kiʻekiʻe.
(2) Ka lole Twill
He huaʻōlelo maʻamau ia no nā lole pulupulu me nā kikoʻī like ʻole o ka ulana twill, e like me ka ulana twill a me ka hoʻololi ʻana i ka ʻuala, a me nā lole lole pulupulu me nā kikoʻī a me nā ʻano like ʻole.E like me: yarn twill, yarn serge, half-line serge, yarn gabardine, half-line gabardine, yarn khaki, half-line khaki, full-line khaki, brushed twill, etc., he 44 mau ano.
I loko o ka lole twill, ua hui ʻia ka maʻawe a me ka weft ma ka liʻiliʻi loa i kēlā me kēia wili ʻelua, ʻo ia hoʻi, 2/1 a i ʻole 3/1.ʻO ka hoʻohui ʻia ʻana o nā wahi ulana a me ka weft e hoʻololi i ke ʻano o ka lole i kapa ʻia ʻo ia ka lole twill.ʻO ka hiʻohiʻona o kēia ʻano lole, ʻo ia ka mānoanoa a me ke ʻano ʻekolu-dimensional ikaika.ʻO ka helu o nā helu he 40, 60, etc.
(3) Ka lole Satin
He huaʻōlelo maʻamau ia no nā kikoʻī like ʻole o ka lole pulupulu ulana satin.Loaʻa kēia mau mea i nā ulana satin like ʻole a me nā ulana satin, nā kikoʻī like ʻole a me nā ʻano o nā ulana satin.
Hoʻopili ʻia ka weft a me ka weft ma ka liʻiliʻi loa i kēlā me kēia wili ʻekolu.Ma waena o nā lole, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe a me ka mānoanoa, a ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi o ka lole, ʻoi aku ka palupalu, a piha i ka luster, akā ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ke kumukūʻai huahana, no laila e ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai.
ʻO ke kaʻina hana ulana satin he mea paʻakikī, a hoʻokahi wale nō o nā lole weft a me nā kaula weft e uhi i ka ʻili ma ke ʻano o nā lōʻihi lana.Ua kapa ʻia ka satin warp e uhi ana i ka ʻili;kapa ʻia ka lana weft e uhi ana i ka ʻili.ʻO ka lōʻihi o ka lana ʻana e ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka ʻili o ka lole a maʻalahi hoʻi e hoʻomālamalama i ka mālamalama.No laila, inā ʻoe e nānā pono i ka lole satin pulupulu, e manaʻo ʻoe i kahi luster palupalu.
Inā hoʻohana ʻia ke kaula filament me ka luster maikaʻi aʻe e like me ke kaula lōʻihi e lana ana, e ʻoi aku ka ʻike o ka luster o ka lole a me ka noʻonoʻo ʻana i ka mālamalama.ʻO kahi laʻana, ʻo ka lole silk jacquard he hopena silky brightness.ʻO nā loʻi lana lōʻihi i ka ulana satin hiki ke ʻoki ʻia, ʻili ʻia a ʻohi ʻia paha.No laila, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka ikaika o kēia ʻano lole ma mua o ka lole maʻemaʻe a me ka twill.ʻO ka lole me ka helu wili like ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe satin density a ʻoi aku ka mānoanoa, a ʻoi aku hoʻi ke kumukūʻai.ʻO ka ulana maʻemaʻe, ka ulana twill, a me ka satin nā ʻano maʻamau ʻekolu o ka ulana ʻana i ke kaula a me ka ulana.ʻAʻohe ʻokoʻa ma waena o ka maikaʻi a me ka maikaʻi ʻole, akā ma ke ʻano o ka hana, ʻo ka satin ka mea maikaʻi loa o nā lole pulupulu maʻemaʻe, a ua ʻae ʻia ka twill e ka hapa nui o nā ʻohana.
Ua kaulana ia ma ʻEulopa i nā kenekulia i hala aku nei, a ua lilo ka lole lole jacquard i mea maʻamau no ka ʻohana aliʻi a me nā aliʻi e hoʻokomo i ka hanohano a me ka nani.I kēia lā, ua lilo nā hiʻohiʻona hanohano a me nā lole nani i ke ʻano o nā textile home kiʻekiʻe.Hoʻololi ka lole o ka lole jacquard i ka ulana a me ka ulana weft i ka wā o ka ulana ʻana e hana i ke ʻano, maikaʻi ka helu ʻana, a kiʻekiʻe loa nā koi no nā mea maka.Hoʻopili ʻia nā wili weft a me ka weft o ka lole jacquard e hana i nā ʻano like ʻole.He palupalu, palupalu a maʻalahi ke ʻano, me ka maikaʻi maikaʻi, drape a me ka ea permeability, a me ka wikiwiki kala kiʻekiʻe.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Dec-09-2022