Ma lalo o hoʻokahi pule! Ma ʻOkakopa 19, e kūkākūkā mākou i nā pilikia koʻikoʻi o ka lā me Sourcing Journal a me nā alakaʻi ʻoihana ma kā mākou SOURCING SUMMIT NY. ʻAʻole hiki i kāu ʻoihana ke hala i kēia!
"Ke hoʻohui nei ʻo [Denim] i kona kūlana ma ka mākeke," wahi a Manon Mangin, ke poʻo o nā huahana kiʻi ma Denim Première Vision.
ʻOiai ua loaʻa hou ka ʻoihana denim i kona ʻano maikaʻi loa, ua makaʻala nō hoʻi i ka waiho ʻana i kāna mau hua a pau i loko o ka hīnaʻi hoʻokahi e like me ka hana ʻana i nā makahiki he ʻumi i hala aku nei, i ka wā i hilinaʻi ai ka hapa nui o nā ʻoihana i ke kūʻai ʻana i nā jeans skinny super stretch i mea e pono ai.
Ma Denim Première Vision ma Milan i ka Pōʻakolu-ʻo ka hanana kino mua ma kahi kokoke i ʻelua mau makahiki-Ua wehewehe ʻo Mangin i ʻekolu mau kumumanaʻo nui i kāhili i ka lole denim a me ka ʻoihana lole.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin, ʻo ka pūnāwai a me ke kauwela o 2023 i hōʻailona i kahi "huli" no ka ʻoihana denim e hoʻomohala i nā manaʻo hybrid hou a me nā ʻano like ʻole. ʻO ka hui pū ʻana o nā textiles a me "nā ʻano maʻamau" hiki i ka lole ke ʻoi aku ma mua o kona mau ʻano kumu. Ua hoʻohui ʻo ia i ka wā e hoʻomaikaʻi ai nā wili lole lole ma o ka tactile density, palupalu a me ka wai, ʻo ka manaʻo o kēia kau.
Ma Urban Denim, hoʻololi kēia ʻāpana i nā ʻano hiʻohiʻona o nā lole hana pono i ke ʻano lōʻihi o kēlā me kēia lā.
Eia ke ʻano o ka hui ʻana o ka hemp, ma muli o ka ikaika maoli o ka fiber. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin, ʻo ka lole denim maʻamau i hana ʻia me ka pulupulu kūlohelohe a me kahi hale paʻa 3 × 1 e hoʻokō nei i nā koi o nā mea kūʻai aku no ke ʻano hana. ʻO ka ulana paʻakikī a me ka jacquard me nā wili paʻa e hoʻonui i ka hoʻopiʻi maʻalahi. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻo nā pālule me nā ʻeke nui a me ka humuhumu ʻana ʻo ia nā mea nui i kēia kau, akā ʻaʻole paʻakikī e like me ka lalo. Hoʻonui ka hoʻopau wai i ke kumumanaʻo pili i ke kūlanakauhale.
Hāʻawi pū ʻo Urban Denim i kahi ala ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka deconstruct denim. ʻO nā Jeans me ka humuhumu hoʻolālā e hoʻokūpaʻa i ka pae hana kumu o ka hana lole. ʻO ka patchwork hoʻomau-inā i hana ʻia mai nā lole ʻōpala a i ʻole ka lole hou i hana ʻia mai nā fibers i hana hou ʻia-he maʻemaʻe a hiki ke hana i kahi hui waihoʻoluʻu.
Ma ka ʻōlelo maʻamau, ʻo ka hoʻomau ka mea nui o nā kumuhana hou. Hana ʻia ʻo Denim i ka pulupulu i hana hou ʻia, olonā, hemp, tencel a me ka pulupulu organik, a hui pū ʻia me ka ʻenehana hoʻopau ʻana i ka ikehu a me ka mālama wai, ua lilo i mea maʻamau hou. Eia naʻe, ʻoi aku ka nui o nā lole i hana ʻia me hoʻokahi ʻano fiber, e hōʻike ana pehea e hiki ai i nā hale hana ke maʻalahi i ke kaʻina hana hou i ka hopena o ke ola o ke kapa.
ʻO ke kumumanaʻo ʻelua o Denim Première Vision, Denim Offshoots, loaʻa mai ka koi paʻa o nā mea kūʻai aku no ka hōʻoluʻolu. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin, ʻo ke kumuhana ke ʻano "hoʻomaha, kūʻokoʻa a me ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana" a mahalo nui i nā lole haʻuki.
ʻO kēia koi no ka hōʻoluʻolu a me ka maikaʻi ke alakaʻi nei i nā hale hana e hoʻonui i nā ʻano o ka denim knitted. ʻO nā mea denim "non-restrictive" i ulana ʻia no ka pūnāwai a me ke kauwela o 23, ʻo ia hoʻi nā lole haʻuki, nā pants jogging a me nā puʻupuʻu pōkole, a me nā pālule ʻoi aku ka nānā ʻana.
Ua lilo ka launa hou ʻana me ke ʻano i mea leʻaleʻa kaulana i nā poʻe he nui, a ke komo nei kēia ʻano i nā ʻano like ʻole. ʻO ka lole me ka paʻi wai a me ka ʻili nalu e lawe mai i kahi manaʻo mālie i ka denim. Hāʻawi nā hopena minerala a me nā waihoʻoluʻu maoli i ka ʻohi ʻāina. I ka hala ʻana o ka manawa, ua pau ka paʻi laser pua nani. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin, he mea koʻikoʻi nā hiʻohiʻona retro-inspired no ka denim-based "urban bras" a i ʻole corsets.
ʻO ka denim kaila Spa e hoʻomaikaʻi i ka jeans. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, ʻo ka hui ʻana o ka viscose e hāʻawi i ka lole i ka ʻili peach, a ʻo nā ʻaʻahu hanu a me nā lole kimono-style i hana ʻia me ka lyocell a me nā hui modal e lilo i huahana nui o kēia kau.
ʻO ke kolu o ke ʻano moʻolelo, Enhanced Denim, e uhi ana i nā pae a pau o ka noʻonoʻo mai ka nani nani a hiki i ka "ʻoluʻolu āpau".
ʻO ka jacquard kiʻi me nā ʻōnaʻi kūlohelohe a abstract kahi kumuhana kaulana. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, ʻo ka leo kala, ka hopena camouflage a me ka wili wehe e hana ai i ka 100% pulupulu lole ma luna o ka ʻili. ʻO ka organza kala like ma ka pūhaka a me ka ʻeke hope e hoʻohui i kahi ʻōlinolino i ka denim. ʻO nāʻano'ē aʻe, e like me nā corsets a me nā pālule pihi me nā mea hoʻokomo organza ma nā lima lima, e hōʻike i kahi paʻi o kaʻili. "Loaʻa iā ia ka ʻuhane o ka hana maʻamau," wahi a Mangin.
Hoʻopilikia ka millennium bug i ka nani o Gen Z a me nā mea kūʻai ʻōpio. ʻO nā kikoʻī ultra-feminine—mai nā sequins, nā aniani ʻano puʻuwai a me nā lole ʻālohilohi a i nā ʻulaʻula wiwo ʻole a me nā kiʻi holoholona—kūpono no nā poʻe e puka mai ana. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin, ʻo ke kī ʻo ka loaʻa ʻana o nā mea hana a me nā mea hoʻonaninani hiki ke wehe maʻalahi no ka hana hou ʻana.


Ka manawa hoʻouna: ʻOkakopa-15-2021